Need advice on taming a feral cat - please help

[raywalsh22]

Hi,

I’m hoping someone can give me some advice regarding a feral cat I’m trying to tame.

She has had one litter of kittens that I’m aware of, and looks to be under 2 years old.

I first started feeding her about a year ago. At that time she was very, very thin and had several bald patches on various parts of her body. I’m happy to say that in the last year she has put on a lot of weight (she’s now a normal weight for a domestic cat), and no longer has bald patches. I’ve also managed to have her spayed.  

When I first started feeding her I would leave a bowl of food outside on my bedroom windowsill. Over the year I’ve managed to get her to come inside and eat in my bedroom. I can leave the bowl anywhere in the room and she will go to it. I can even put it on my chest while I am lying in bed and she will approach and eat from it. However, she is still extremely timid. She will allow me to stroke her (provided I’m lying down and the bowl of food is on my chest), but she merely tolerates this while she is eating. As soon as she’s finished, she moves away back to the windowsill where she grooms herself and then leaves through the open window. Sometimes she will even take a nap for an hour or two on the floor below the windowsill and she has even slept at the bottom of my bed while I’m in it.  However, if I make any kind of movement, she will leave immediately.

There are other cats in the area, and I think she is very frightened of them. If she hears the slightest sound outside while she is eating, she bolts for the windowsill and is gone.

The problem is that I’m moving in a couple of months and I won’t be able to take her with me. My sister has agreed to take her if I can tame her. However, I’m not sure that she can be tamed. An officer from the local society for protection of animals suggested that I should trying playing with her with pieces of food, but this hasn’t worked.

I’ve read that some people have tamed wild cats by capturing them and keeping them locked in a room, which they visit periodically to allow the cat to become accustomed to them. The problem is that I’ve already captured her once (when I was having her spayed) and she didn’t react very well to it all. After the operation I kept her in my bedroom in a locked cat carrying box supplied by the vet. However, she was so distressed that she started ‘fighting’ with the blanket inside it. I released her from the box into my bedroom, but kept the windows locked. However, she cried all night, and in the morning I found her hiding behind a wardrobe. She was absolutely soaked with sweat from the anxiety of it all. I had to release her immediately because it looked as if she just couldn’t take any more. Thankfully, she returned again a couple of nights later and we are now at the stage I described above where she will come into my bedroom and even eat from a bowl on my chest while I’m lying in bed.

Can anyone give me any advice on where I should go from here?  As I said, I have to move house in a couple of months, and I know that  she will return to the terrible condition she was in before I started taking care of her if I can’t tame her before I leave. Should I try to capture her again and keep her inside? If I do this, I will have to keep her in my bedroom as there is no other free room. I am in my bedroom most of the day as I’m a student writing a thesis.

Thanks

 

[JMJimmy]

My advice would have been to stick with it after you had her spayed... if you're taming a feral cat they will put up the biggest fight they can and try any tactic they can think of to get what they want.  Once they exhaust their fight, then the real work of socializing starts.  By caving to her demands you've likely made it that much harder to ever tame her.  With only a couple months left, it would be hard to get such a cat to a social state - let alone to someone who they haven't bonded with yet. 

Sadly not all cats can be helped.  Best thing I could suggest is find a like minded soul who could continue to feed her/watch out for her once you leave.

 

[ondine]

Remembering that she may never be a lap cat, I would keep her in your room.  She may object and she may never really warm up to anyone else but you.  But she can learn to live inside quite happily.

Always keep in mind that change is horrifying to cats.  It makes a lot of sense when you think about it.  Any change means a potential risk - to a food source or to their safety, so they are very wary of it.  Routine is the key with cats, so if you can set that up with her in your room, you might be surprised at how quickly she adapts.

Other than that, if you can help your sister understand and accept the nature of the cat - she's shy, may be withdrawn or even a little angry, maybe she can still adopt her.  Knowing that it takes awhile will help all of you adjust slowly to the new changes.

Good luck and blessings on your for helping her.

 

[StefanZ]

Having her in your bedroom is really a big advantage.   You have her in another room only if you cant have her in your bedroom... 

You tell it yourself - she dares more if you are laying down...  

All in all. Normally I would say, you are excellently on the way to socialize and foster her.  Its just to give it time.  Your problem you dont really have time.  Lets hope your sis is willing to proceed...

OK.  Make her a comfortable laying place.  Fleece is good for this.  So she will WANT to lay on it.   Make a legal hiding place - type cat igloo, may be done from a sideturned cardboard box.   Consider an Feliway adapter - helps sometimes.  Have relaxing, calming music on. Classic harp music is probably best, but almost any is OK.  There are youtube sequences on it.  the same type of music works fine for concetration at studies...

You may try to play with her with a Da-bird or something alike.

Before the switch comes, be sure there are some scents of your sister, for example her scent on her t-shirt, and the t-shirt on your chest while the cat is eating on you.

Good also if the sis visits you.  She may sit down, calmly, not moving, observing.  Perhaps talking sweetly some, and making friendly noices. Not moving.  If the cat dares to come forward and smell on her, fine.  She shallnt do anything at the first moments.  Nor look in the cats eyes.

Im wondering, what if your sis has a friendly resident. It helps often in the socializaiton process, esp if you are a willing new be.

But if your cats is afraid of other cats, and tends to be bullied by them, its not sure it will work.

 

[raywalsh22]

JM Jimmy, Ondine, Stefan Z,

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help.

I think I will try to capture her again. There really isn’t anyone who can take care of her after I leave ( My sister lives too far away to travel each day to feed her), so I have no option but to try to tame her and then give her to my sister.. It’s heartening to learn that she’ll be able to cope even if this is unsuccessful, but I think it’s worth capturing her again to give it one more try. I’ll keep all your advice in mind once she’s caught.

My one worry is that she was absolutely soaked with sweat from anxiety the last time I captured her. Is this unusual?

Thanks again for your help and happy New Year to all of you.

 

[ondine]

I am not sure cats sweat, so it may have been urine, as they often pee themselves when stressed.  I have an inside cat who does that, so it isn't unusual at all.

Good luck; sending vibes all goes well

 

[JMJimmy]

Cats sweat through their paws not their skin so it likely was urine or possibly even from a good cleaning session (they tend to start grooming more once indoors as well).

Here are some tips:

 - Keep her isolated to one room, preferably your bedroom.  Spend as much time in there as you can, not necessarily interacting just being in the same space. 

 - Be prepared for spraying.  It's not guaranteed but many strays/ferals learn the behaviour to mark their territory/communicate with other cats.  *more on this below

 - Once or twice a day push her interaction level as far as you're able to safely.  You don't want a bite but you might expect a scratch as a warning that you've touched somewhere she doesn't like or she's had enough.  You'll need to learn what she's telling you.  Lip licking is a warning.  Ears flat means fear, if cornered expect her to lash out if you try to touch her, if not cornered it's letting you know you need to be careful but you can approach.  Hissing can be interpreted as "not now, say away".  Tail twitching means excitement/agitation - a little is ok, a lot means it's time to stop whatever you're doing and back off or you'll be sorry.  These are guides only, messages change slightly between cats and with the level of trust you build up with the individual cat.  It's a constant learning process to see the subtle queues they're giving you which will let you predict their behaviour and how far you can push them.

 - Learn the slow blink.  Some people say it's the cat equivalent of "I love you", the reality though is you're saying "I'm not a threat to you".  Do it once, wait for the cat to slow blink back, if it doesn't happen within 5-6 seconds, slow blink again, and wait again.  If no slow blink is returned the cat is telling you it still sees you as a threat and you should adjust accordingly.  Make yourself smaller, turn to the side, then try again.  Once you get that slow blink returned - you know there's hope for her to be socialized.  Some cats are separated from their mothers too early and never learn it (like our Junior) and it causes them all sorts of trouble interacting with other cats which results in them being attacked a lot because other cats think they're constantly being aggressive.  This means they are harder to approach and socialize as well.

 - Don't be afraid when interacting with her.  Cats are incredibly sensitive to your emotional state - if you approach with fear you'll get fear in response.  Approach like what you're doing is completely normal and be confident (not act confident, be confident) and she'll respond in kind. 

 - Find the "enticement trigger".  Male cats it's often catnip, females it's usually a food.  Try different foods like tuna, chicken, etc to see what motivates her.

 - Find the toy that gets her prey drive going - it might be a mouse or a feather on a string, it might be a laser pointer, etc.  (dollar store has some great ones for a LOT cheaper than you'll find at pet stores)

 - Use the enticement trigger to get her out of hiding.  Use the toy to get rid of the pent up energy.  She's used to roaming many hours in the day... that energy is still there when she's cooped up in a room so it needs to be drained.  Use her normal food (kibble or wet) to fill her up/relax her.  Then try to push the interaction.  She won't have the energy/inclination to put up much of a fight at that point and will naturally want to groom so pets are just you grooming her.  Pay attention to trigger spots - every cat has them where it's just too sensitive or unusual a spot to be touched.  Avoid petting those areas once you find them.  Our Scotty will let you do almost anything to him and he'll keep on purring (including give him shots + ear drops) but touch too low on his belly and he'll let you know in a split second that ain't happening.

Spraying in detail: 

*Anything* under 2 feet of the top of any surface should be protected/moved.  Furniture, doors, walls, bags, shoes, a small pile laying around on a table.  That means if she can get on top of the dresser anything 2 feet from on top is fair game for her spray.  If you have stairs, assume the ceiling + anything within 4 feet of the stairs could be sprayed. 

Waterproof/Bedbug casements for your bed work well.  Wood that isn't protected *will* be damaged by it so remove it from the space.  Wood that should be safe is covered in at least 2 layers of latex paint (holes/scratches will allow it to seep through), outdoor quality sealant, or a plastic layer.  Curtains are a likely target as well but they can usually be washed.  Empty the bottom two shelves of any bookshelves as well and check the underside of the shelf itself for spray. 

Getting rid of the smell can be difficult but a technique I use that's pretty effective is to use water+2 capfulls of bleach in a spray bottle.  Spray the effected area (the sooner the better), immediately wipe it down with a paper towel.  Repeat until the visible spray is gone.  Then use Nature's Miracle to spray down the area.  Wait an hour, re-spray with the diluted bleach, and wipe it down.  On surfaces that can't take bleach, a combination of white vinegar + water can be used.  The stuff is notoriously hard to get out, you need a blacklight to really tell if you got it all, but the technique described will usually do the trick. 

 

[raywalsh22]

Thanks again for your help, JM Jimmy.

I managed to capture her again last night. She was much less panicky this time.

I made a little den for her as Stefan suggested above, but she isn't using it. She has squeezed herself in behind the large wardrobe in my room like she did the last time I caught her. I thought I had blocked it, off, but somehow she managed to get past the obstacles I placed in front of it.

I will pick up some chicken pieces this morning and leave them close to it , to see if I can entice her out.

I'll report back on my progress.

Ray

 

[JMJimmy]

Awesome news! 

One more tip: start with the cheapest enticement foods & work your way up to more expensive ones if she doesn't respond to the cheaper.  She'll hopefully be getting these for a long time   Often we find the cheaper, stinkier treats are more enticing than the expensive stuff anyway.

 

[ondine]

Good news!  If at all possible, remove the hiding space - can you temporarily lay the bureau on its back or side, a bit aways from the wall?  You can also provide her with a carrier with a nice cozy blanket in it for a hiding spot.  If she retreats into that, easier to close the door when you need to take her to the vet.

 

[raywalsh22]

Thanks Ondine.

I'll do my best to remove it as a hiding place. I'm going to take as many things as possible from my room. There are just too many hiding places. 

I put some food beside her hiding place, but she hasn't touched it. But it is less than 24 hrs since she was caught.

Ray

 

[ondine]

Since change is so terrifying to cats, it takes them a long to to make adjustments.  Your best ally is patience.

Blessings on you for helping her.

 

[raywalsh22]

Thanks Ondine.

She's moved from her hiding place and is hiding somewhere else now. I'm not sure where as there are so many places to hide in my room. I've moved as much stuff out as I can.  So far she hasn't used the cat litter , but there are no strange smells in the room.

 

[StefanZ]

 
Thanks Ondine.

She's moved from her hiding place and is hiding somewhere else now. I'm not sure where as there are so many places to hide in my room. I've moved as much stuff out as I can.  So far she hasn't used the cat litter , but there are no strange smells in the room.

Its quite common  shy cats do hide this way even over 48 hours...

So in a way its encouraging she does hide and observes, and isnt desperately thrasing around trying to get out.

Have everything prepared, food, water, litter, scratching tree, some nice legal hiding places as you said, this turned cardboard box with fleece or towel inside.

And sooner or later she will come out and do what she must do.  Probably at night, with you laying down ans sleeping...

You can have calming relaxing music on, low, not too high.  Or speak yourself calmly and friendly.  - compare with a friendly courting tom, whom does use a lot of friendly sounds...     Do NOT have radio with human voices on before she has landed, its stressing her out in thiis phase.

 

[raywalsh22]

Thanks so much, Stefan.

Last night was strange. She allowed me to approach her and stroke her while she was on the windowsill.. She also climbed on the bed and came right up to my face. She was crying, and sort of begging to be released. She cried mournfully all through the night. She did thrash against the window a few times. She also washed herself several times throughout the night.

She has taken a pee (not in the litter box), but she hasn't pooped yet.

I'm a little concerned that she hasn't taken a drink or eaten anything yet. It must be over 48 hours since she last ate.

I've contacted the local pet shop about the Feliway adapters. They're quite expensive for me as I'm a student. However, if they're really effective, I might get one.

Thanks to everyone for your support - this would be really hard without your help.

Ray

 

[ondine]

You can also buy a bottle of Feliway spray and use it on surfaces.  It isn't as expensive as the plug-ins but you do have to refresh it every so often.  Might try that to see if it works.  Some cats don't react to Feliway at all, so its a good idea to try it out.

I wouldn't worry just yet about her eating.  She won't let herself starve but she's still adjusting.  Everything she found familiar is outside, so that's where she wants to go.  Don't give in - keep tempting her - sooner or later, she'll find something irresistible.

 

[raywalsh22]

Ondine,

Thanks for putting my mind at rest about her not eating. I'll look into the other spray you mentioned.

She let me stroke her again this morning while she was on the windowsill.

She is still crying away. I've noticed that a bald spot she had on her chin when I first started feeding her has returned.

Ray

 

[JMJimmy]

Quote:

Last night was strange. She allowed me to approach her and stroke her while she was on the windowsill.. She also climbed on the bed and came right up to my face. She was crying, and sort of begging to be released. She cried mournfully all through the night. She did thrash against the window a few times. She also washed herself several times throughout the night.

This is great news!  The crying is actually a great step in the process and being out exploring like that is a great sign, especially on the bed.  The bed is where your scent is strongest, it's also something cats need to adapt to because it feels strange under their feet at first and is very exposed.  Being up there shows confidence and trust in you.  The crying to me is her saying "hey human, I need to go on my patrol to hunt for food - why don't you understand?"  As she progresses and surrenders to her new life she'll develop new routines that will override the old and become her new norm.  It won't happen overnight... they say it takes 21 days for a human to develop a new routine... it's a good measuring stick for cats too (though they can be much quicker to adapt). 

Awesome work!

 

[ondine]

The crying and allowing pets are wonderful signs.  She's letting you know her wishes, which means she understands you can help her.

I would keep an eye on her chin to make sure it isn't ringworm or herpes.  Neither is the end of the world, although each would need treatment.  It could also be acne.  Once she's calmed down some and settled in, a vet check will help identify exactly what it is.

And - she may also be over grooming - many cats do when stressed.  That should stop as she calms down.  We have a cat who has a completely bald belly and back legs.  He's still not used to the new house, which we moved into in May!  Only during the last month has he stopped and slowly, his poor little belly is getting furry again.

 

[raywalsh22]

Thanks JM Jimmy and Ondine,

It's a relief to hear all that.

She's sitting on windowsill now, looking all sad and defeated. But she didn't bolt for a hiding place when I entered the room, so she must be losing her fear of me.

I'll keep you updated.

Thanks again,

Ray