Transitioning To Outdoor Cats

thelaughingcat

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
Nov 8, 2017
Messages
24
Purraise
16
Hey guys!

In a couple of weeks, my two kittens will both finally be neutered/spayed, microchipped and fully up to date with their shots soooooo.....it's time to introduce to the big, wide world! *cue strains of Cat Steven's Wild World while I sob*

It's been a good decade and a half since I last did this though, so it's a little fuzzy in my memory. I remember teasing them outside with food and just giving them short times in our back garden to begin with, as well as moving food from one side of the cat flap to another to get them used going through it. I trained them to respond to a specific whistled melody (which I've done this time too). But everything else is a blur.

Anyone have any good tips on how to do it effectively? How in heck's name do you train them to go to the loo outside and do you then get rid of their litter trays indoors or leave a couple around for in case it's throwing it down/they're cold/bone idle? How long have others' left it before letting them roam completely free and unsupervised?

Victory loves preparation and all that!
 

Kieka

Snowshoe Servant
Staff Member
Forum Helper
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Messages
11,484
Purraise
20,404
Location
Southern California
I have indoor/outdoor cats. Here is my transition and general guidelines:

1) Technology.

A) Cat Door - My cat door is a microchip access door with curfew. This allows the cats free access in and out throughout the day but auto locks and unlocks. I have to manually tweak the times a few times a year but it prevents them waking me up to go out and if I am out late locks them in.
B) Collar - My guys wear Beastie Band collars with TabCat trackers. Link will be upgrading to a Pod3 in a few weeks to see how that system works out. But I think some sort of emergency tracking system is key. I've had cats go missing without it and the peace of mind now to then is incomparable.

2) Vet care. Have a good vet and good partnership including knowing where ER vets are. Cats with outdoor access should get immediate care for any problems. I don't wait to see if it gets better because they do have more exposure. I frequently have the vet visits even if whatever cleared up just to be safe and annual checks are a must. Pet your cats each day with a mind towards checking for injury or illness.

3) Outdoor safety.
A) If your on a busy street its a no go.
B) Tall to neighbors and make sure you don't have any that are anit-cat. Those you talk to mention your cat by name and share photo. Better relationships prevent someone feeling bad for your cat or feeding your cat. Collars help on this front too.
C) Escape. Look around your yard with an eye towards a cat escaping from predator. Our yard is fenced so should someone run into a dog outside the yard they can get over the gate and to safety. We also have several trees so there are very few start run spots. Allowing the cats to get away even if a dog gets in the yard. Another is bushes with tighter beaches thay allow the cat to get theough but not something larger. If you don't have either then put out some cat caves bug enough for your cat but not for a dog bigger.

4) Training. What you actually asked about.
A) Name training. Start inside. Start using the cats name every meal. Say the name with treats or play time. Not a nickname but the actual name for calling. Never use the name in a negative reinforcement. Just positive. Once you have a consistent response to the name then you can start return training. I should mention instead of a name you can substitute a whistler, clicker or bell. Just be consistent. I like name because each cat does respond separately to their name (except Fury because he will steal the reward of the other two if I am not careful, greedy bugger).
B) Return training- very similar to name training. But you don't go to them. Call the name and don't give food, treat, pet until they come to you. When they come when you call consistently then next step.
C) Going outside. Start with just taking them outside and not letting out of arm reach. This is easy with kittens because it is new space and scary. If they go out of reach call back. If they dont come you go back inside with them. If they come back give a pet, attention or treat. Each time they return you have to reward somehow. Stay out for 10 minutes each time (less if they aren't responding). After two weeks of short visits and within reach you can start expanding how far they go before calling and how long. This process will take a few months. End goal is you sit outside for an hour and call back any time they go out of eye sight. At the end of the hour call back. You can do longer but you want to stay out and call back if they stray outside acceptable area. Once you are at that point where after an hour of play they still respond immediately you are good for outside access.
D) Curfew. Once they have free access establish a time for curfew. I don't encourage night outdoor access because of dangers. I've spent $5000 in vet bills related to nighttime injuries don't learn the hard way curfews are very good. Plus calling in every evening for dinner at around the same time establishes a routine. I find my guys usually bring themseleves in for dinner or are waiting just outside the door at dinner time.

It's a lot of work. It took me 6 months to train Rocket, my youngest who I did everything above with. However, I can go outside at any time of day m, make some noise and within 30 minutes the cats will be near me. If I call their names its a max of 15 minutes before they are all there. They come reliable every single time. The one time one didn't come it was because he broke his leg (before curfew and before trackers, took 4 todays for him to get home).

As to the litter box, I don't use one unless I am out of town. All but one cat would prefer to hold it until the morning. The one who doesn't want to hold it is my Moms and he doesn't have a curfew.
 
Top