Steroid alternatives for rodent ulcers

[paul jefferies]

Hi all, i posted on here a while ago now re Lilly and Rodent Ulcer, i would strongly recommend not using steroids now to treat this as my little died Monday 25/08/2014 from severe complications relating to steroid use

 

[melvinlove]

Paul Jefferies- my heart is broken for you  - re Lily's passing away.  I have  a 12 year old with terrible allergies that we have been dealing with for several years.  She had several steroid shots over this time and the last steroid  injection pushed her into diabetes.  Five months of insulin shots and everything that goes with it!  She is now off of the insulin, but the allergies are still there.  She has a sister who was diagnosed with rodent ulcers when I  first got her. At first, we were giving her Prednisone but the ulcers kept coming back. Then the vet suggested maybe my cat was allergic to plastic! Got rid of plastic toys and food bowls, and lucky for us, that was the problem. When I think back over the years, my four cats have received steroids for various reasons.  NO MORE!    Again, my deepest sympathies for your loss.

 

[animalpal2014]

To: afoolstale



Don't panic if your cat tests positive for Leukemia (Or for Feline AIDS).   With proper care, these cats can live long, happy lives. (See info below.)



It's a good idea to check all cats coming into your home for Leukemia.  Especially - if you're bringing in a new cat when you already have a cat. 


Because - Feline Leukemia is very contagious.  If one of yours has it - the other probably does too.



IS IT POSSIBLE YOUR CAT HAS WORMS??   Even indoor cats can get worms.  (From insects carrying them in, from someone whose clothing was in contact with a cat/dog with worms, etc).  Worms can also cause other reactions in your cat, including dehydration, and, poor response to infections, allergic reactions, etc.   Often the easiest thing to do - is to just worm the cat - as worms are not always detectible by the worming tests.    I will send you a separate reply regarding worms.



STEROIDS:   I wholeheartedly agree with the people telling you not to use steroids - ESPECIALLY if your cat is diagnosed with Feline AIDS or Leukemia - Because, these cats already have weakened immune systems.  Steroids will push the immune system down further.  Steroids don't "cure" any illness,  They simply knock out the cat's immune response to the offending items, so, the cat APPEARS to be better.



RE:  Leukemia & AIDS:


If your cats are indoor-outdoor - even if they test negative initially - they can pick up leukemia at any time from other cats outside.


[The Leukemia Vaccine is not that protective.  It does not protect against all strains of leukemia.  And, it is one of the vaccinations that is very risky for Injection Site Carcinoma.]



If your cat is indoor-outdoor - and if she tests positive - there needs to be a repeat test after about 30 days (keeping the cat indoors - away from other cats for the whole time).


Why? Because the initial test used for leukemia -is the Elisa test.  This test can give a false-positive result. (even responding sometimes to other items in the blood, or just "useless" particles of the Leukemia virus)


The conclusive test - done only after the Elisa Test - is the Western blot test.  This tests the Bone Marrow. 


Since it takes time for the leukemia virus to reach the bone marrow - you have to wait at least 30 days, during which the cat has no contact with other cats - who might be carrying Leukemia - for it to be reliable.



If your cat tests negative on the Elisa test for Leukemia, and hasn't been in around other cats (Who are positives, or, unknowns)  - you don't have to do a follow-up test.



If your cat is totally indoors - and tests Negative on the Elisa - then that result should be accurate.



The Elisa test for leukemia - usually also tests for Feline AIDS, so, you should get results on both.


(If your younger cat tests positive for AIDS - be aware that the AIDS test often gives False Positives - because a kitten can carry its mother' antibodies (If he had AIDS) for up to 9-10 months old)



IF your cat is carrying Leukemia or AIDS - there is no need to put him/her down.  


If "carrier" cats receive some special care - they can often live long, healthy lives.



AIDS is not transmitted easily.  In adult cats - it basically transmitted only through Deep Bite Wounds (Not play-bites). 


You can keep AIDS cats with non-AIDS cats. They can share food, water, etc.


On the other hand, Leukemia is extremely contagious.  Leukemia cats should be kept TOTALLY separated from Non-Leukemia cats.  Even a sneeze through a screen can transmit it.)



Both AIDS and Leukemia don't generally kill directly.   They both weaken the immune system - so that, the cat can't fight off even a normally mild infection/disease.  


A Secondary Infection (NOT Aids/Leukemia) is usually the direct cause of death.  So, to keep your cat alive and "healthy'" - the best things to do are to get/keep the immune system strong,


and, to avoid allowing the cat into contact with cats that even POSSIBLY could be carrying a contagious diseases.



CARRIER CAT CARE:


1.  The cat should be fed on the best foods you can afford.*


2.  If there is any sign of any illness - it should be treated right away, as each illness will further weaken the immune system.


3.  Be super-careful about bringing new cats in.  They may be carrying contagious illnesses.


4.  Do not ever allow the cat outdoors.   There are too many disease out there that they could contract.


     [And - other cats outside could be infected easily by Leukemia.  With AIDS, this can be transmitted too - if the cat gets into a fight.]



*NOTE:  Please avoid foods with CARRAGEENAN.  Carrageenan is a VERY strong carcinogen.  AND, it also can damage the GI system (Stomach, Intestines, and more). 


(The supposed "safe" form" changes into the unsafe form in the stomach)


MOST canned pet foods contain Carrageenan.  READ FOOD LABELS CAREFULLY. 


Also avoid Ethoxyquin:  Also a Carcinogen found in cat some foods.



I also strongly recommend giving them 4Life Transfer Factor - Classic Formula (Available on the internet site - or through distributors).  Transfer Factor Strengthens the Immune system quickly.  (I have personally seen this demonstrated on Blood Tests.  WBC production goes way up).  Transfer Factor is very safe.  It is composed of immune molecules - just like the immune molecules that babies get from mom's milk.  I think the 4Life Transfer Factor Classic Formula is the best formula to get.  This is the only formulation I have found that contains ONLY Transfer Factor Immune Molecules.  Nothing else is included.  It will not interfere with any medications (Except HIgh-Dose Steroids - since they have the opposite effect)



Colostrum also contains Transfer Factors - but - TF has a MUCH higher concentration (2000x).  And - Colostrum contains milk - which can cause negative reactions cross-species.  4Life TF does not contain milk - so, it can be used safely Cross-Species).



TF gives the cat what it needs - more white blood cell production (and - directly - more immune cells that will act as an immune system right away.


I used 4Life Transfer Factor Classic Formula on an AIDS cat - that was crashing (usually cannot be saved at this point).  His White Blood Cell counts were WAY down.


Once he received the TF - he rallied.  His White Blood Cell count went up into the normal range quickly (documented in blood work) - and he lived happily for many years.



It is somewhat expensive (You should not have to pay more than $39/bottle).  But, there's 90 capsules.  And, a maintenance (Not therapeutic) dose is about 1-3 capsules/day.


Capsules contain a fine powder which can be poured out onto/into cat food.  Most cats like the taste, and will even lick it off the top of food!  (This is the most economical way o give it - as you don't lose it in uneaten portions of food.)  If you can locate a local distributor - you should be able to avoid shipping costs.



In any case, Transfer Factor may also help with all the problems your cat is having (with or without Leukemia/AIDS).  I have seen it perform Miracles many times with cats that had Bad Wounds (You can apply the powder topically - and even in eyes - with SOME water added), Cancer, Upper Respiratory, Kidney Failure, and on and on.  I have saved young kittens with it who were dying (Vet couldn't do any more for them). 


I strongly suggest trying this,  I think this will help your cat - whatever is wrong with him.



Jackie Page     

 

[animalpal2014]

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To: afoolstale          RE:  WORMS & DIARRHEA TREATMENT

WORMS:  I don’t know that your cat has worms.  But, since worms can be easily missed in worm tests – You may want to just try worming your cat.  Just use safe wormers.

I have a 17-year old cat who has always had a very good appetite.  He was throwing up frequently, and had diarrhea.  Recently, he got very picky about what he would eat.  And, would eat very little of that. 

He also was dehydrated.  His last bloodwork was fine. (Maybe too long ago!)

Before I totally panicked, I considered that he might have worms. (Worms can occur even in indoor cats.  Eggs can be brought in by insects and deposited on their cat food, People can bring in worm eggs

on their clothing from handling an animal with worms, Fresh foods can carry worms/worm eggs, etc.)  So, I started him on Fenbendazole (Panacur).  This is a very gentle wormer, which must be given for

at least 3 days in a row to work (because it is very gentle). [Works on Roundworms, Hookworms, and some forms of Tapeworm (Also can help with some Fluke worms).]

The Vomiting and Diarrhea seem to stop after 3 days on Fenbendazole.  He received it for 6-7 days, as the longer time period should also get rid of Giardia, just in case.

I actually did see some worms in his stool during treatment.

I preceded this treatment - by feeding him Babyfood (Gerber's #1 Chicken & Gravy, and also the beef formula) to build him up a bit (Smoother formula than Beechnut).  It also is easy to add supplements to, which I did.  I added a small amount of Activated Charcoal (Anti-Diarrheal - and soothes tummy/intestine ling) - and Pumpkin, to help normalize the stool (Libbys makes Plain Canned Pumpkin with nothing else added).  He ate this with good appetite, and always wanted more, which I gave him. I believe he WAS really hungry, but, his stomach would bother him after he ate.  And, this protocol seemed to help. 

Cats generally like meat baby foods a lot - and, as it's liquidy - it's easy to digest.  So probably causes less tummy pain.

(Recommended Baby Food to a friend a couple of weeks ago for her cat - who was not eating, even though he had good bloodwork.  He rallied on it.  HIs appetite is back, and he's eating his cat foods again.)

I also gave my cat Sub-cutaneous fluids every day, since he was dehydrated from the vomiting and diarrhea (MAYBE kidney issues too. He's old.)

After a couple of days on this “Formula”, my cat’s diarrhea stopped, so, I stopped the Charcoal.  Kept the pumpkin for a while!  And, I started adding a wormer - powdered Fenbendazole (aka: Panacur) to his food (Babyfood or Tuna - to tempt him strongly!.  Very small portion so he would get all the medication!)

Currently, he seems to be doing fine.

**************************************************************************************************************

IF YOUR CAT HAS ONGOING DIARRHEA - HE NEEDS SUB-CUTANEOUS FLUIDS:     Diarrhea depletes electrolytes from the body - so that his tissues cannot hold the water he takes in. 

That is probably why he is drinking so much.  Ongoing Diarrhea - can kill a cat - because of electrolyte depletion.  (Can kill a young kitten very quickly.)

You can check your cat's hydration with a Pinch Test.   Just grab the loose skin at the top of his neck between thumb and forefinger - and pull it up.  (This will not hurt him).  Then - Let it go. 

        Skin in a properly-hydrated cat - will SNAP back so fast - you won't see it go back.  (Observe from the SIDE.) 

IF YOU CAN SEE THE SKIN GOING BACK INTO POSITION - EVEN SLIGHTLY - The cat is dehydrated.  The slower it goes back - the worse the dehydration.

        In light dehydration - sometimes, you will only notice the fur "settling down".  (If you need to see this done - any Vet or Vet Tech can show you .  Most Animal Rescuers, too!)

LACTATED RINGERS SUB-CUTANEOUS FLUID:   If your cat is dehydrated at all - from WHATEVER - it's a good idea to give these fluids to him daily - or every other day (If he's very lightly dehydrated). 

This will make him feel better - by washing out toxins from his blood, and by re-hydrating his organs.  [If & When he is no longer dehydrated - you should stop.]

It is best for you to learn how to administer these fluids yourself .   You will save A LOT of money, and, you can give it at home every day if needed.

ADMINISTRATION:

It's not hard.  And, it's not scary (after the first time).  It will not hurt the cat if you insert the needle correctly.  Cat skin is not like people skin.  It's LOOSE.  In cats, the scruff of the neck is MEANT to be pierced. 

This is where they bite each other when they mate - and - where moms grab their kittens.   Many cats even purr when receiving the fluids (If they're WARMED FIRST).  It makes them feel better right away!

1.  Warm up the fluids FIRST:   Put bag upside down in a bowl of Hot Water.  Test the temperature of the water in the bag to make sure it’s not TOO HOT – by feeling it carefully –

                                                       or dripping some on your wrist (Not the first few, cooler drops). (Like with a baby bottle). And, do NOT allow the fluids to flow back into the bag from the line.

     DO NOT use a microwave.  Microwaves change the structure of the molecules – AND – cause the plastic bag – to leech moreso into the fluids. 

2.  YOU NEED TO HANG THE FLUIDS a few feet above where the cat will lay.  I use a Wire hanger – which I hang on the top of one of my Kitchen Upper cabinet doors.  The cat is on the counter below. 

       I bend the hanger in at the sides - to make it 3-dimensional – so the Fluid Bag hangs freely - and does not hit the cabinet    door.  (This can throw off the ml measurement.). 

       And I hang the bag on the Rounded Hook part of the hanger, which I bend to the back - to go over the cabinet door.

3.  Put your cat up on a counter that's a good height for you to manage him.  Also – if you can place his rear end against a side-wall – this will help to prevent him moving too much. 

          Putting a towel under him may make him more comfortable, as he will not slip.

4.  When Fluids are warm enough, take cap off the needle. With your left hand – pull his neck skin up to form a “tent” (Open space inside - NOT squeezed together).   (Reverse if you are Left-Handed)

      With your Right Hand - Insert the needle into the middle of the tent.  Insert needle SIDEWAYS - Do NOT angle the needle down toward the muscle (That WILL hurt your cat). 

      And, these type Fluids are meant to go only under the skin - not into the muscle (or blood vessels).  Make sure you do not go THROUGH the other side (You’ll know soon, as fluids will just flow out that side,

      instead of into cat.  Although the best place to insert the needle is in the loose skin at top of the neck, you can use other areas, too.  Cats have a lot of loose skin.  And, if your cat ends up receiving fluids

      frequently – you will need to vary the injection site.

Your vet (or a vet tech or Rescuer) can show you how to do this procedure. 

5.  DOSE:     Usually 100 ml per dose for an average size cat.  No more than this. Too much at one time is not good!  

      If cat is extremely dehydrated - he should get fluids 2-3 times a day.  Give no more than 100ml per dose - and no more than 250 ml per day - in 3 doses (100-50-100) spread out over 14-24 hours.  

     (Wait at least 4 hours in between doses.)   And, make sure the pocket of fluids that forms under the skin - is completely absorbed before giving another dose.

6. NEEDLES:  I use 20g needles (3.4"-1" long).  Vets often use fatter needles.  This is done to save time - but they are more likely to hurt your cat.  I use a fresh needle every day.  When left too long - the tips

                        oxidize,  and can get tiny, invisible "rough" edges - which can hurt your cat.    (For young kittens, use a smaller width.   For very young kittens - use a small width needle on a SYRINGE.)

You can buy all these Fluids from your vet (Usually $15-25 for 1000ml bag of fluids)  - And Lines, and Needles - or - from the internet (Much cheaper - $8?)  - but, you need an Rx from a cooperative vet. (Or M.D.).

And - please FIRST check the FDA Site - for recalls on Sub-Cutaneous Fluids.  There have been at least two recalls recently (One for Hospira. I forget the other - maybe ABBOTT).  I would especially be concerned that when ordering on Internet – they may ship bags from these recalled batches.

If your cat is only lightly dehydrated – you can just try adding some Pedialyte (unflavored) to his water (Sometimes in food, too).  I usually add about 1” of Pedialyte to 3” of water.  [Don’t use it undiluted –

it contains too much Zinc for cats that way.]  If your cat is Strongly dehydrated – you can use the Sub-Q Fluids AND the Pedialyte in the water.  [I buy the brand name.  There seem to be differences in the inert ingredients in the Generic brands.]

WORMERS:      DON'T USE the nicely-package, over the counter "Supermarket" type Wormers - or Flea meds.  Many are notorious for causing bad reactions.  They have been known to kill cats/dogs with one dose.

“SAFE” WORMERS:

     PYRANTEL PAMOATE (Strongid):  Works on Roundworms, Hookworms.

     FENBENDAZOLE (Panacur):  Works on Roundworms, Hookworms, Some Tapeworms, Some Fluke

      Worms.  This has to be given for at least 3 days (5-7 for Giardia).  Because it is very gentle, one dose will

      not do the whole job. 

     PRAZIQUANTEL:  (In Drontal or Droncit, I Forget. One contains TWO wormers.  I don't like using more

      than one at a time.  Or Straight Praziquantel):  Works on all Tapeworms, Most Fluke Worms. 

You probably shouldn’t worry about Tapeworms – unless you see “rice grains” in poo or on tush. 

If these wormers don’t improve the diarrhea, there still may be worms – Fluke Worms (Trematodes).  And, in this case, you may want to do a test for Fluke Worm eggs.  If it’s negative – you may need to repeat it a few times to detect them.  Fluke Worms can be very hard to detect – and may need higher worming doses - or more time to eradicate.  But they can cause very serious damage.  These are heavy-duty worms (eg. Some can literally eat away the liver).  They can kill.  (You can't get these from your cat.  Unless he passes a whole worm - and you eat it!)

If you want to check for Fluke Worm eggs - they need a different test – a Sedimentation test.  Fluke Worm eggs DO NOT SHOW UP on the traditional Flotation Test. These eggs are heavy, and will sink. And, in any case, their eggs can be missed very easily because of weird life cycles. 

I think that all these wormers need a repeat dosage in 1-2-3 weeks – as most worms can re-contaminate from the environment.  (Roundworms, in particular:  Roundworm eggs can survive on surfaces for MANY months.  A year??  So – best to wash everything in the environment too!)

Whatever Wormer (Or Flea Product) you might consider using, you may want to check it out first on the internet for possible adverse effects. 

I get my wormers very inexpensively from a vet in Florida - who ships quickly. He also provides advice if you give details - and instructions on use.  If you want to contact him: 

Arthur Wells, DVM:   [email protected].

PS’s:

CHARCOAL:   The best form of charcoal is from Hardwoods.  Less interference with food absorption.  (But, charcoal can cause constipation.  Not good for Kidney Failure cats, as they tend toward this anyway. 

The pumpkin (plain) is safe.)

CAT FOODS:    If you are feeding your cat dry foods - switch him to canned.  Dry foods tend to have a lot of Mish-mosh ingredients that don’t do a cat any good, and they are too low in protein that is USABLE by cats, and – they don’t provide fluids that cats need!  (ESPECIALLY for Kidney Failure cats.  They need all the fluids they can get.)  In canned foods, read back labels carefully. 

I don’t feed any fish, and only organic or poultry liver (except occasionally).  Fish is not digested or metabolized well in cats. It leaves lots of by-products in the blood - which have to be cleared out by the Kidneys.  Liver contains toxins from the animal it comes from.   

I also avoid Fish Oils:   Especially from Salmon – or – unidentified fish (Probably Salmon).  Almost all Salmon is Farm-Raised – and, so – EXTREMELY high in Carcinogens.  And, Ocean Fish (or oil) contains a high level of Iodine.  Cats have a strong tendency to develop Hyperthyroidism, which Iodine can contribute to.  And – Currently – all fish from the Pacific – are radioactive – because of the Fukishima spill.

And, remember – Avoid any foods containing CARRAGEENAN.  This is a very strong carcinogen - that is also known to damage many organs – especially the GI system, kidneys, liver.  (Manufacturers will tell you they use the "safe" form.  But, there is no safe form, as this form is changed by stomach acids - into the "unsafe" form.

Also avoid Ethoxyqun – It’s also a carcinogen.

PS:  Transfer Factor can also remedy allergic reactions.

Good Luck,   Jackie Page      
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[Margret]

Oh, Paul Jefferies.  So sorry to hear about Lily.  I know you love her very much.  It hurts like hell to lose a pet.

Margret and Jasmine

 

[alyssam]

I'm very sorry for your loss. *hugs*

My Nel has recently been treated with a steroid shot and oral antibiotics for EGC/rodent ulcers. They have cleared up completely in less than a week and she goes back Friday for her second follow up shot. The second shot is supposed to help prevent more ulcers from forming. In addition, we changed her food, since we have no idea of the cause. She now eats Purina One kibble.

We were told if the ulcers return we should have her tested for Feline Leukemia. Here's hoping they don't come back!

 

[smokem]

How is the baby??

Was gonna say maybe the immune system is impaired.But you had bloodwork done correct?

My tortoise has flea allergy.When she gets sores I use Pet Silver wound spray.

$15 for 80 ml!!The stuff is worth its weight in gold,and nontoxic and a little goes a long way.

She is also not benefitting from frontline,switched to advantage.

However,have also used Sentry natural defense-its peppermint oil!!

They tend to not lick it because it is warm!!It comes in a powder too.

Also diatomaceous earth to prevent fleas,on the animal,bedding etc.

I think they use it in catteries.A good diet,as good as we can afford to boost immune system.

I hope she is better.

 

[paul jefferies]

Thank you all for the lovely messages of support, AlyssaM i am so glad it worked for you, but please think very carefully if the Ulcer ever comes back about using steroids, Lilly's reaction was severe because the steroids our specialist used were so strong because Lilly's ulcer was so stubborn, we missed the warning signs which is why we feel so guilty, it was also in the height of the summer and our vet who saw Lilly several times in the weeks leading up to her being ill missed them as-well, however i have to say he was very good and the symptoms were fairly mild until the day before, when we woke in that Friday Lilly was in severe respiratory distress we took her as an emergency to our vets who put her straight into an oxygen tent and x-ray'd her chest, we had been sent home, we were phoned within the hour to say she had been referred to North Downs Specialist Referral hospital and we needed to get her there asap, we went to pick her up where we were shown her x-ray, the vet thought she had cancer in both lungs, NDSR did more tests on her which came back as Heart failure fluid on and in both lungs Diabetes and high acidosis, they told us this is very serious but were confident if she survived the first 72 hrs she would pull through, Lilly went straight into intensive care, NDSR were very good we had 2 phone calls a day from them to update us, by the Monday she was no longer critical but still very ill, we went to see her on the Wednesday and she just purred and purred which was lovely to see as she hadn't interacted with them at all, her heart and lungs were now working properly again and the acidosis lvls were normal, the diabetes however was still worrying at 27.5, she came home Friday with medication and instructions on how to use them which we followed to the letter, providing there were no problems she was to go back the following Friday for a check-up and to check her Insulin, Wednesday we woke up and Lilly was back in respiratory distress, we rushed her to NDSR again were she was taken and put back in to an oxygen tent, her insulin levels were high at 29.7 but her heart and lungs were fine, they suspected pancreatitis but didn't want to blood test her as she was very anemic due to all the blood tests when she was hospitalised, her blood glucose whilst being back in hospital had been as low as 5.1 and 4.4 but on the Thursday evening was back up at 28.3, Lilly was stable enough the come home Friday evening but aswell has her medication we were given 4 morphine based pain killers for her if she became uncomfortable, she purred all the way home and didn't stop purring most of the night, she ate well and drank well at home, her specialist had arranged for the on call vet to be fully aware of what she had been through and would be able to advise us on pain medication if we needed it, all we had to was ring, Saturday night at 22.20 she became very uncomfortable we phoned NDSR the answer phone option didn't work 3 times we tried in the end we just gave Lilly the dosage that her specialist had told us to give her as a max within 10 mins she was the pain men's had worked, as u can imagine it was a long night for us, Lilly had a good day Sunday she was playing purring and slept on my chest, she didn't seem that interested in food most of the day which nothing unusual she did drink, we gave her her men's at 22.00 as normal twenty kind later she became very uncomfortable again and was violently sick we tried phoning NDSR again but same problem with anger phone so we gave her another lot of pain relief, this time her breathing was shallow and fast all the symptoms went after about an hour and wanted a drink then wanted a cuddle facing me on our bed, she only ever faced me 3 times when she wanted to bed cuddled, I don't know why I said it but I said this is going to be a long night to Ed, I didn't leave her all night and she stayed with me in between us all night and purred all night, I think I drifted off to sleep at about 6 a.m Lilly was still purring, Ed woke me suddenly at about 8 a.m saying something was very wrong I looked over and Lilly was motionless on her side breathing very rapidly we tried another pain killer which had no effect after 5 mind we tried NDSR again same problem so I phoned are local vets who wanted her I straight away, it was a bank holiday here and a Monday, it only took us 2 mind to get to the vets and they took her straight to an oxygen tent, the on call vet Jenny told us this was the third time in 2 weeks she had been in respiratory distress and that this was very serious and we should prepare our selves for the worst as she believed there was fluid on Lilly's lungs again, she said to us to go home and she would look after our little girl she also promised us that at no pint would Lilly be on her own she had also done a quick blood glucose check and it was at 36.5, Jenny said she would phone is at 12 midday, that wait was just torchure, Jenny phone at 12 and said Lilly had had an x-ray and that she had had to do a blood test and it really wasn't good, Lilly was back in heart failure had fluid around her heart fluid in and on her lungs her kidneys were failing the acidosis lvls were off the chart and her blood glucose lvls were at 49.9 and still rising and most worrying that her lungs were only possessing 10% oxygen and that lvl was falling I stopped her and said "we r at that point aren't we" Jenny replied I am very sorry but yes, we told Jenny we would be there in 5 mins, we grabbed Lilly's favorite pillow blanket and catnip banana and got there, we were taken straight into a consulting room and a nurse bought Lilly in, that sight will haunt me for the rest of my life, she was clearly suffering and I told the nurse to get the vet and let Lilly fly, we had put her things on the table and the nurse laid Lilly on them, she was also now blind and very close, thank fully she new we were there and as we cuddled and stroked her and talked to her she calmed down, the vet came in looked at me and I just said please let her fly, we said the Lilly that she had been so brave and that it was time to fly, I thank God that she didn't suffer for long at the end and we know that she was ready as she didn't struggle. I am letting you guys know this because I would hate for anyone else's little girl or boy to go through the same thing as our little angel did, Lilly's problems were extreme and the combination very rare and her veterinary teams really did pull out all the stops and far more to try to save her.

We really are great full for all the very kind messages of support from all on here, thankyou

Paul and Ed