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- #81
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Need Some Advice for a Feral Cat ASAP
- Thread starter alexisanb
- Start Date
Much luck at the vet today
Will be thinking of you and Boots
!!!!!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #84
The vet said Irritable Bowl Disease. My fiance ended up taking him because I had my first day of work today. He said they gave him some kind of fluid (like IV or something), and gave us some pills for him. His diarrhea is nearly pure water now
. I'm sure he'll be fine though.
However, he has just started trying to attack the other cats...specifically Bartholomew. He's also been pretty skittish since he's been home from the vet. My guess is that he's just freaked out and he's being an unneutered male. Is it safe for me to get him fixed this week still?
Thanks
However, he has just started trying to attack the other cats...specifically Bartholomew. He's also been pretty skittish since he's been home from the vet. My guess is that he's just freaked out and he's being an unneutered male. Is it safe for me to get him fixed this week still?
Thanks
Are the pills metronadizole? Also, just FYI, you can't actually diagnose "IBS" without a biopsy of tissue from the colon. It tends to be a... diagnosis vets use when there's nothing else apparent. Unfortunately, FIV kitties sometimes have a tendency to have problems with diarrhea. And it's not unusual for them to have... "immune related" problems - such as food sensitivities or GI imbalances cause diarrhea.
If he has watery diarrhea, I'd fast him for 24 hours, and put him on boiled chicken (meat only, no bones) and rice with the "chicken water" mixed in (the water you boiled the chicken in, to help keep him hydrated). Give his system time to "reset." I'd also slowly add in a probiotic. For Chumley we used an acidophilus+bifidus (human) probiotic we purchased at the health food store and started by sprinkling 1/4 capsule on his food once a day, and bumping it up every few days. We kept him on the boiled rice and chicken for about two weeks, I think it was. That process got his stool back to mushy, at least.
From there we tried various things, but nothing worked. We assume he had a food sensitivity, and put him on what we thought was an anti-allergan diet (Hill's Science diet z/d), but we used both wet and dry, and the dry version of z/d has brewer's rice in it, which is a known allergan.
So I still don't know if there was a food trigger. But we took Chumley to a holistic vet. She put him on a regimine of chinese herbal treatment, and the stuff to firm up his stools worked within four days.
He now gets 4 drops added to each of his four meals of wet food a day, and we can't tell the difference between his stools and the other cats'. This is the herbal remedy we're using for diarrhea (info about the product: http://www.acu-market.com/Consolidat...oductinfo/CCQ/ ). If I remember correctly, this is where we last purchased it: http://www.healthremedies.com/consol...b_company.html His doctor's directions were to start with three drops twice a day and work up. It is an alchohol base, but it's just a couple of drops. I drop it on the top of the wet food, put it in front of the fan for a minute or two, and then just mix it in.
I don't think it's ideal to neuter him while he's got watery diarrhea.
I'd probably wait until his GI system settles down a bit. But you may need to be more proactive than the vet is indicating. Of course, it'd be great if the pills they gave you do the trick!
If he has watery diarrhea, I'd fast him for 24 hours, and put him on boiled chicken (meat only, no bones) and rice with the "chicken water" mixed in (the water you boiled the chicken in, to help keep him hydrated). Give his system time to "reset." I'd also slowly add in a probiotic. For Chumley we used an acidophilus+bifidus (human) probiotic we purchased at the health food store and started by sprinkling 1/4 capsule on his food once a day, and bumping it up every few days. We kept him on the boiled rice and chicken for about two weeks, I think it was. That process got his stool back to mushy, at least.
From there we tried various things, but nothing worked. We assume he had a food sensitivity, and put him on what we thought was an anti-allergan diet (Hill's Science diet z/d), but we used both wet and dry, and the dry version of z/d has brewer's rice in it, which is a known allergan.
I don't think it's ideal to neuter him while he's got watery diarrhea.
I hope the metro helps, but I agree with Laurie that a lot vets prescribe metronidazole when all else fails. Also, as Laurie says, IBD is a common diagnosis when (again) all else fails. It is a typical first choice diagnosis of vets. Chances are that this will help Boots
and I would wait a week before the neuter for his GI to settle down. As far as him going after the other cats, pretty normal behavior after a stressful experience as going to the vet. AND, Boots is still adjusting to his new life at your place, the vet appt. put him over his limit of what he can handle so he is taking it out on Barth
. Thinking of you tonight and hoping things have settled a bit
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #87
The medicine we have is Flagyl. I'll have to look into all of that other stuff, just haven't had much time so far this week (I spent all of yesterday shampooing my carpet). It seems like they've settled down a bit, and Boots doesn't have any teeth, so at least he can't bite him.
Since the symptoms he has can fit about anything, I'm not really sure what to think. He hasn't thrown up since going to the vet, but still has diarrhea.
I'll give you a better update tomorrow
Since the symptoms he has can fit about anything, I'm not really sure what to think. He hasn't thrown up since going to the vet, but still has diarrhea.
I'll give you a better update tomorrow
Flagyl is metronidazole so that should help him with the diarrhea.
Oh, it is very bitter so make sure you get the pill way back in the throat. I use a pill plunger which helps. You could also ask the vet for some Hill's prescription W/D. That will firm up the stool along with the the metro? please let us know how things are going tomorrow
Originally Posted by Feralvr
Flagyl is metronidazole so that should help him with the diarrhea.Oh, it is very bitter so make sure you get the pill way back in the throat. I use a pill plunger which helps. You could also ask the vet for some Hill's prescription W/D. That will firm up the stool along with the the metro? please let us know how things are going tomorrow
More for your boy! And
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #90
It's actually really easy to get him to take them. I just wrap them in lunch meat and he gobbles them down. It seems like he's feeling better, though still some diarrhea.
I have quite the dilemma though. My mom is sick of the smell in my room. It's not that bad, but it isn't the most pleasant thing either. Either I figure out how to get rid of all the smells in my room, or I only have two weeks to get the kittens out and I can't take any more in. I clean their litter boxes out daily, and I just shampooed my carpet, but she said that shampooing it made it smell worse. (Sometimes I think she's crazy). And our shampooer isn't very good. I'm stubborn, so I can probably hold her off for awhile, but at the same time, I want to respect her decision, which is why I am looking to get rid of the smell.
Should I try to get a new shampooer?
I have quite the dilemma though. My mom is sick of the smell in my room. It's not that bad, but it isn't the most pleasant thing either. Either I figure out how to get rid of all the smells in my room, or I only have two weeks to get the kittens out and I can't take any more in. I clean their litter boxes out daily, and I just shampooed my carpet, but she said that shampooing it made it smell worse. (Sometimes I think she's crazy). And our shampooer isn't very good. I'm stubborn, so I can probably hold her off for awhile, but at the same time, I want to respect her decision, which is why I am looking to get rid of the smell.
Should I try to get a new shampooer?
If it doesn't use heat, use the shampooer, but use an enzyme cleaner instead of a shampoo and water. You can water down the enzyme cleaner I guess... Maybe half water half enzyme cleaner?
But the only thing that will actually get rid of the smell is an enzyme cleaner.
You can try Nature's Miracle, which is easy to get anywhere - but in my experience it doesn't work too well, and usually requires 2-3 applications - especially if the smell has been "set," which you've done by using the shampooer.
I'll PM Lauren - she knows of one at Petsmart (there's one near you?) - I think it's called Stink Free or something? The one we use is fabulous, but it's expensive and would take you some time to get it, because you can only order it online. It's called Nok Out. http://nokout.com
But your mom is probably right. Soaps don't break down urea in the urine, and the additional humidity makes it smell.
You may want to buy some cheap beach towels or something, because you have to let it air dry.
But going forward, keep an enzyme cleaner on hand. When there's spraying or an accident, "spot" treat it with the enzyme cleaner. Blot up the spot with paper towels. Pour the enzyme cleaner on there (always shake the bottle first) (soak it down to the floor boards), let it soak 15 minutes, then blot it up - and just let it air dry. I usually cover the spot with aluminum foil so we remember not to step there while it dries (it also helps prevent kitty from using the same place over and over again).
I'd get the boys neutered asap, especially if the diarrhea is almost gone (YAY!). This will REALLY reduce the "strength" of the smell of their urine. I mean - amazingly so!!!!!
But your mom is probably right. Soaps don't break down urea in the urine, and the additional humidity makes it smell.
You may want to buy some cheap beach towels or something, because you have to let it air dry.
But going forward, keep an enzyme cleaner on hand. When there's spraying or an accident, "spot" treat it with the enzyme cleaner. Blot up the spot with paper towels. Pour the enzyme cleaner on there (always shake the bottle first) (soak it down to the floor boards), let it soak 15 minutes, then blot it up - and just let it air dry. I usually cover the spot with aluminum foil so we remember not to step there while it dries (it also helps prevent kitty from using the same place over and over again).
I'd get the boys neutered asap, especially if the diarrhea is almost gone (YAY!). This will REALLY reduce the "strength" of the smell of their urine. I mean - amazingly so!!!!!
Yes, Laurie is right. The product is called Stink Free. Sold at Petsmart. It really does work and I swear by this stuff. First off, blot and blot and blot
. Then use some dish soap, a few drops in some water and sponge the area, then blot and blot and blot
. Then pour the Stink Free (shake bottle) and blot some more. Then SOAK the area with Stink Free. Start about ten inches out from the pee spot and work in towards the center. I put a paper towel over it while it dries. It will take a day or two to totally dry. Then do it over one more time. I would get two bottles. The first one will get used up quickly because you really need to douse the areas.
Is there a plug outside your room in a hallway? Because you could get one of those Febreeze plug ins and then that is what your mom will smell when she comes by your room.
it will really work well to cover up the smell, especially is it is humid in your area, that brings out the smell ten-fold of pet accidents.
Is there a plug outside your room in a hallway? Because you could get one of those Febreeze plug ins and then that is what your mom will smell when she comes by your room.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #93
Yeah there's a Petsmart by my house (I'm there multiple times a week, hehe). I will check that stuff out and see if it helps. The problem is, I really need to just do my whole room, because he's peed in plenty of spots. How would I go about doing that? And I found this on google
http://www.topcatlinks.com/caturineodor.php
I don't want to just start off dumping vinegar in my room though.
http://www.topcatlinks.com/caturineodor.php
I don't want to just start off dumping vinegar in my room though.
I've actually done a lot of research on this topic.
When I posted before, I forgot it's not the urea that's the problem - it's not. It's the uric acid.
Here's information I provided in a thread in the behavior forum on removal of cat pee.
******************************
There is a strong, legitimate, and chemically important reason to use enzyme cleaners. Here's more detail on why an enzyme cleaner is so important, and home-made mixtures or other cleaners won't solve the problem long term (at least to a kitty's nose). The solution may work better than some enzyme cleaners like Nature's Miracle - temporarily. But it works only as long as there isn't an issue with humidity. I will explain.
I have done a lot of research on this issue. Vinegar neutralizes the odor, and hydrogen peroxide is 30% more oxidizing than chlorine - but cat pee is composed of things that REQUIRE enzymes to break down the chemical bonds. Cat pee is composed of:
Urea
Urobilin/Urobilinogin
Uric Acid
Sodium
Other electrolytes
Creatinine
Pheremones
Bacteria - typically 5 different strains.
When cat urine dries, the urea gets broken down by the bacteria. This is what makes it smell like ammonia. As it decomposes further, it releases thiols that make the odor worse. (It is the thiols in skunk spray that make it SO difficult to remove the smell of skunk spray).
The urea and urobilin/urobilogin are not hard to clean. Urea is water soluble, and urobilin is basically the pigment that causes the color. A traditional household or carpet cleaner will deal with these. And this is why hydrogen peroxide and vinegar will appear to be effective at eliminating the problem.
The problem is the uric acid. Uric acid is insoluble and bonds tightly to whatever surface it touches, and the sodium in the urine compounds the problem.
The vinegar and hydrogen peroxide do not - are not chemically capable of - removing the uric acid. It temporarily makes the smell go away, because it does clean up everything else. But when exposed to humidity, the sodium causes the uric acid crystals to reform - and they start to release the smell again. Not always to the human nose, but the cats can smell it.
Because of the uric acid/sodium, cat pee has a half-life of six years. !!!!!!!
So the ONLY thing that will break down the uric acid to PERMANENTLY remove the smell is an enzyme cleaner.
The problem is that not all enzyme cleaners are equally effective. Good ones are expensive. Cheap ones will work - but need to be reapplied over and over (and probably end up costing as much as the expensive enzyme cleaners).
Having dealt with three different males blocking numerous times, and Spooky peeing outside of the box for months, we've used many solutions, cleaners, and enzyme cleaners. Nok Out works. I haven't used Anti-Icky poo, but I understand it is the "same class" of enzyme cleaner.
Of course ANY cleaner needs to be used properly. Unfortunately, the OP was not using the cleaner properly. "Spraying" doesn't work. DOUSING, POURING, and SOAKING are required.
*********************************
And as you need to clean the entire carpet, use the shampooer - just use the enzyme cleaner instead of carpet cleaner/water. Just don't use the heat. And the shampooer pulls the excess moisture up, right? And then you just leave it to dry? That should work! You may need to do it 2 or 3 times.
But once it's done and dried, you should be able to get away with spot-cleaning.
Once they're neutered, IF THERE IS NO SMELL OF CAT PEE to their noses, hopefully they'll stop spraying.
But if they smell cat pee outside of a litter box, that in and of itself encourages them to keep spraying, even after they're neutered. ...but the difference between the strength of the smell of "neutered" cat pee and "intact" cat pee is truly amazing.
Here's information I provided in a thread in the behavior forum on removal of cat pee.
******************************
There is a strong, legitimate, and chemically important reason to use enzyme cleaners. Here's more detail on why an enzyme cleaner is so important, and home-made mixtures or other cleaners won't solve the problem long term (at least to a kitty's nose). The solution may work better than some enzyme cleaners like Nature's Miracle - temporarily. But it works only as long as there isn't an issue with humidity. I will explain.
I have done a lot of research on this issue. Vinegar neutralizes the odor, and hydrogen peroxide is 30% more oxidizing than chlorine - but cat pee is composed of things that REQUIRE enzymes to break down the chemical bonds. Cat pee is composed of:
Urea
Urobilin/Urobilinogin
Uric Acid
Sodium
Other electrolytes
Creatinine
Pheremones
Bacteria - typically 5 different strains.
When cat urine dries, the urea gets broken down by the bacteria. This is what makes it smell like ammonia. As it decomposes further, it releases thiols that make the odor worse. (It is the thiols in skunk spray that make it SO difficult to remove the smell of skunk spray).
The urea and urobilin/urobilogin are not hard to clean. Urea is water soluble, and urobilin is basically the pigment that causes the color. A traditional household or carpet cleaner will deal with these. And this is why hydrogen peroxide and vinegar will appear to be effective at eliminating the problem.
The problem is the uric acid. Uric acid is insoluble and bonds tightly to whatever surface it touches, and the sodium in the urine compounds the problem.
The vinegar and hydrogen peroxide do not - are not chemically capable of - removing the uric acid. It temporarily makes the smell go away, because it does clean up everything else. But when exposed to humidity, the sodium causes the uric acid crystals to reform - and they start to release the smell again. Not always to the human nose, but the cats can smell it.
Because of the uric acid/sodium, cat pee has a half-life of six years. !!!!!!!
So the ONLY thing that will break down the uric acid to PERMANENTLY remove the smell is an enzyme cleaner.
The problem is that not all enzyme cleaners are equally effective. Good ones are expensive. Cheap ones will work - but need to be reapplied over and over (and probably end up costing as much as the expensive enzyme cleaners).
Having dealt with three different males blocking numerous times, and Spooky peeing outside of the box for months, we've used many solutions, cleaners, and enzyme cleaners. Nok Out works. I haven't used Anti-Icky poo, but I understand it is the "same class" of enzyme cleaner.
Of course ANY cleaner needs to be used properly. Unfortunately, the OP was not using the cleaner properly. "Spraying" doesn't work. DOUSING, POURING, and SOAKING are required.
*********************************
And as you need to clean the entire carpet, use the shampooer - just use the enzyme cleaner instead of carpet cleaner/water. Just don't use the heat. And the shampooer pulls the excess moisture up, right? And then you just leave it to dry? That should work! You may need to do it 2 or 3 times.
But once it's done and dried, you should be able to get away with spot-cleaning.
Once they're neutered, IF THERE IS NO SMELL OF CAT PEE to their noses, hopefully they'll stop spraying.
Excellent research from Laurie and I remember seeing that on another thread months ago. It is a keeper
. Much luck in this clean-up effort. It sounds like a big job to tackle. If all else fails, you could remove the carpet and padding temporarily until the cats are all fixed. If there are multiple pee areas and it has soaked down into the padding and floor, sometimes the carpet just has to come out and then I would go with a different type of floor until such time as you move out. Then you could tell mom you will replace the carpeting at that time. Just a thought. I have never had any luck with just steam cleaning carpets of cat pee. You really need that enzyme product.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #96
I'm going to get around to my carpet eventually, but just been so busy with everything else. Boots is feeling loads better, but still some diarrhea, and now Bartholomew has diarrhea as well. I'm thinking possibly tapeworms? We've been using Strongid as the wormer, and that doesn't cover tapeworms, so that's my next guess. Of course, I'll have to worm all of them. I also switched to Sensitive Stomach food in hopes that it will help. Ragman has been throwing up hairballs. What's the best thing to get rid of them? And as soon as Boots starts feeling better, he is getting fixed!! But I'm not going to rush it. More updates soon
You could ask the vet for Hills prescription W/D just temporarily, that will firm up stools quickly and goes well with cats that are getting treated with the metro. Also try a probiotic. I use people probiotics and just give one half capsule in wet food.
For hairballs, I give my cats 1/2 tsp. of Vaseline once or twice a week. This coats the digestive tract and helps pass the hair along. Or I have heard of someone using the Hairball remedy Temptation treats but if the cats are having some diarrhea, this might make it a bit worse so i would wait on trying those until their systems are back to normal.
Glad to hear Boots is feeling a bit better. It has been a stressful time for these cats, new diets, new environment, getting dewormed and they are already dealing with FIV on top of that so I am not surprised they are having a bit of diarrhea. Not sure about the Strongid and it's effectiveness. I have had superior luck with Profender which will also kill the tape worm in one treatment. You could ask your vet about it if you want. It is a spot on treatment (not for fleas) for deworming only.
For hairballs, I give my cats 1/2 tsp. of Vaseline once or twice a week. This coats the digestive tract and helps pass the hair along. Or I have heard of someone using the Hairball remedy Temptation treats but if the cats are having some diarrhea, this might make it a bit worse so i would wait on trying those until their systems are back to normal.
Glad to hear Boots is feeling a bit better. It has been a stressful time for these cats, new diets, new environment, getting dewormed and they are already dealing with FIV on top of that so I am not surprised they are having a bit of diarrhea. Not sure about the Strongid and it's effectiveness. I have had superior luck with Profender which will also kill the tape worm in one treatment. You could ask your vet about it if you want. It is a spot on treatment (not for fleas) for deworming only.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #98
I need some serious help.
Boots and Mew both have diarrhea, and Boots' fecal came back negative for everything, though I'm thinking perhaps Coccidia?
The reason I think this is because about 1 1/2 weeks ago, we took a couple of kittens suffering from weight loss/diarrhea/lethargy to the vet, and they thought probably coccidia, but gave us meds for everything. They were dehydrated, so they got sub-q fluids. Later that night, I got the sister, and started giving her the meds I was given for them as well, but she didn't get sub-q fluids. The third one looked really bad, but I'm used to the meds taking a little while to work, and I noticed tapeworms in the stools, so I figured that was the problem.
On Sunday, the skin around her mouth was blue, so we took her to the emergency vet. She had a temp of 97.7 and her bp didn't register until she was there for a few hours. They also said that she was extremely dehydrated. She bounced back and was released the following morning.
About 3 hours after she was released, I went to check on her, and she couldn't move. This time, she was hypoglycemic and her temp was at 86.6. We proceeded to take her siblings to the vet to get more sub-q fluids.
She was released again on Wednesday evening, and was eating well and seemed fairly responsive until Friday evening. After the first episode, we decided not to take any chances and made sure she wasn't left alone for more than 30 minutes at a time. She hadn't been drinking well, so we took her to get sub-q fluids. Shortly after, she vommited 4 times (all right after eating). She crashed again and went back to the vet, this time with a temp of 97 and a glucose level of 25.
3 of her siblings are fine, it's just her and her sister worrying me. Her sister isn't nearly as bad as her, but she is still pretty lethargic and isn't absorbing the sub-q fluids well. She doesn't seem to drink anything.
Before taking them to the vet, they were lethargic, lack of appetite, weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea.
We were given Albon and Panacur to treat them, and Amoxicillin for Vincent because of a bladder infection.
Vincent seems to be doing well. Tifa is lethargic, but seems to be eating well. And Sabin is at the emergency vet.
After twisting their arms, they said it could possibly be something to do with the liver, like it's underdeveloped or something. We're doing Bile Acid Testing tomorrow.
She crashed so quickly, and it just doesn't make any sense. I've never seen Sabin vomit before, in the 4 weeks that I've had her. And then she vomits shortly after those Sub q fluids. The doctors told me that it had nothing to do with it, but there's no way that I'll believe that.
So now my faith in all veterinarians is gone, and I am at around $1500 with her treatment so far. If the Bile Acid test comes back positive, they said the surgery would be around $3000.
Are there any other diseases that cause hypoglycemia in kittens?
Boots and Mew both have diarrhea, and Boots' fecal came back negative for everything, though I'm thinking perhaps Coccidia?
The reason I think this is because about 1 1/2 weeks ago, we took a couple of kittens suffering from weight loss/diarrhea/lethargy to the vet, and they thought probably coccidia, but gave us meds for everything. They were dehydrated, so they got sub-q fluids. Later that night, I got the sister, and started giving her the meds I was given for them as well, but she didn't get sub-q fluids. The third one looked really bad, but I'm used to the meds taking a little while to work, and I noticed tapeworms in the stools, so I figured that was the problem.
On Sunday, the skin around her mouth was blue, so we took her to the emergency vet. She had a temp of 97.7 and her bp didn't register until she was there for a few hours. They also said that she was extremely dehydrated. She bounced back and was released the following morning.
About 3 hours after she was released, I went to check on her, and she couldn't move. This time, she was hypoglycemic and her temp was at 86.6. We proceeded to take her siblings to the vet to get more sub-q fluids.
She was released again on Wednesday evening, and was eating well and seemed fairly responsive until Friday evening. After the first episode, we decided not to take any chances and made sure she wasn't left alone for more than 30 minutes at a time. She hadn't been drinking well, so we took her to get sub-q fluids. Shortly after, she vommited 4 times (all right after eating). She crashed again and went back to the vet, this time with a temp of 97 and a glucose level of 25.
3 of her siblings are fine, it's just her and her sister worrying me. Her sister isn't nearly as bad as her, but she is still pretty lethargic and isn't absorbing the sub-q fluids well. She doesn't seem to drink anything.
Before taking them to the vet, they were lethargic, lack of appetite, weight loss, dehydration, diarrhea.
We were given Albon and Panacur to treat them, and Amoxicillin for Vincent because of a bladder infection.
Vincent seems to be doing well. Tifa is lethargic, but seems to be eating well. And Sabin is at the emergency vet.
After twisting their arms, they said it could possibly be something to do with the liver, like it's underdeveloped or something. We're doing Bile Acid Testing tomorrow.
She crashed so quickly, and it just doesn't make any sense. I've never seen Sabin vomit before, in the 4 weeks that I've had her. And then she vomits shortly after those Sub q fluids. The doctors told me that it had nothing to do with it, but there's no way that I'll believe that.
So now my faith in all veterinarians is gone, and I am at around $1500 with her treatment so far. If the Bile Acid test comes back positive, they said the surgery would be around $3000.
Are there any other diseases that cause hypoglycemia in kittens?
It is possible that Boots and Mew have the coccidia.
You could, of course, give them a round of panacur. Talk with the vet because I think the panacur will treat Flukes and Giardia. I think if you go with the Albon, it needs to be given for about three weeks. Again, check with vet...
As for the kittens, BLESS you for caring like you do. You are just amazing. I really do not have any experience or knowledge about hypoglycemia. I am hoping others here will have some solid advice for you. Poor Sabin
. I hope the Bile Acid test shows something. Sorry these kittens are having such a rough start in life, but they are so lucky to have you caring for them.
As for the kittens, BLESS you for caring like you do. You are just amazing. I really do not have any experience or knowledge about hypoglycemia. I am hoping others here will have some solid advice for you. Poor Sabin
I'm so sorry about the kitty(ies).
But as to Boots and Bartholomew... they're both FIV+, right? Approximately 30% of FIV+ kitties have problems with chronic diarrhea. Of course, you have to rule out other causes, but it may well be that's it's related to the FIV.
We tried a million things for Chumley. What worked was a product called "Consolidate Qi." It is a tincture. We started by adding 3 drops to his wet food (which he gets 4x a day). When he was on antibiotics, I had to up it to 6 drops at each meal. He's back to 3 drops, which is the maintenance dose that works for him. If you want to give it a try at some point, here's a link: http://www.easyhealthzone.com/consol...z-p/cm0006.htm Kan Herb (who makes it), is a very reputable company that makes herbals for pets, and their website is set up for vets to send in scrips for animals. It's just cheaper to buy it through a distributor because the shipping Kan Herb charges is a lot - and I don't think you can buy through the site without a vet scrip. The 2 oz. bottle is also available at www.easyhealthzone.com and is $44. Just thought you might want to start with the smaller bottle to see if it helps.
But as to Boots and Bartholomew... they're both FIV+, right? Approximately 30% of FIV+ kitties have problems with chronic diarrhea. Of course, you have to rule out other causes, but it may well be that's it's related to the FIV.
We tried a million things for Chumley. What worked was a product called "Consolidate Qi." It is a tincture. We started by adding 3 drops to his wet food (which he gets 4x a day). When he was on antibiotics, I had to up it to 6 drops at each meal. He's back to 3 drops, which is the maintenance dose that works for him. If you want to give it a try at some point, here's a link: http://www.easyhealthzone.com/consol...z-p/cm0006.htm Kan Herb (who makes it), is a very reputable company that makes herbals for pets, and their website is set up for vets to send in scrips for animals. It's just cheaper to buy it through a distributor because the shipping Kan Herb charges is a lot - and I don't think you can buy through the site without a vet scrip. The 2 oz. bottle is also available at www.easyhealthzone.com and is $44. Just thought you might want to start with the smaller bottle to see if it helps.
