OK lets start with the subcutaneous fluid. This helps flush out the kidney, eliminating poisons collected from the bloodstream. I am giving Johnny 150 mg every other day, but he is a 17 lb cat so talk to your vet about this. It commonly comes in 1 liter bags (the ones you see in the hospital), and I buy mine from our local pharmacy. They require a prescription so your vet must be in on this. It's been costing about $35 US per case of 12, and I buy it that way because it is significantly less expensive by the case. Also our pharmacy doesn't sell by the bag and doesn't normally stock it. There are several different type of I.V. fluid and I don't really know what the difference is. My vet uses 'lactated ringers" so that's what I buy. We warm the fluid in hot water before use so it is more pleasant for the cat.
We use what is called a "primary I.V. set". That's the tubing running from the bag to the needle. Keep it simple you don't need to pay for bells and whistles. I've also done this with with my parents' cat using a syringe instead of tubing. Once again this needs to be coordinate with your vet. You'll need to find out what gauge and length of needle your vet recommends. I use 18 gauge, 1.5 inches long. 1.5 inches long is a little bit longer than needed but 1inch has been too short. Their are sizes in between but my local source doesn't carry them. My vet says we can reuse the needle several times but we have found they dull after 1 use so we just buy them by the box and don't reuse them. Make sure you get instruction at your vet office on how to place the needle It might help to do your first injection at the vets office. It's natural to be a bit squeamish about injections but it is very effective. Johnny not only doesn't mind, but actually seems to want it. So does Binx (other cat). That might have something to do with giving them treats after-wards. It must not hurt too much because they come for it voluntarily.
Now as far feeding is concerned, and quality food is worth the price in the long run. I made my own food for a while but had to stop because it took to much time. Of course it didn't help that I was feeding 2 large dogs and 7 cats. 1 cat should be much easier. Initially my vet advised me strongly against this. Let me give you his main concerns: Cats have a much different digestive system than humans or dogs. They require nutrients that we synthesize but they can't. If those nutrients are not present in their food it can have dire consequences. Fortunately the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) has standards and Foster & Smith have published them. I'd give you a link but I've found that links sometimes get my posts held for review. I'll give you that info in a separate post. The other problem is related to the first . When cats eat in the wild they eat the whole prey, blood, organs, eyes and often bones. There are nutrients that aren't found in quantity in muscle, but cats still need them, for instance calcium. Now many raw feeders grind bone into the food and that probably works fine but the best source is actually blood, it's much more digestible. Packing houses drain the blood and you may not find a source. You can use supplements but make sure it is calcium HCL not calcium carbonate. There are nutrients that cats need which are mainly found in organs, eyes, brains, tongue, etc.... Finally some nutrients have to be balance against others and an imbalance can be toxic. So when you read "balanced" that is a very important word. I did a bunch of research, wrote a plan, and gave it to my vet. His concerns were answered and he got on board. I just want you to realize that home made food is not as simple as going to Wal-mart, buying a cheap bag of chicken quarters and feeding it to your cat. It's always important that your vet knows anytime you stray from the beaten path, since that info can be key to future diagnosis.
If you shop carefully and read the labels you can find good commercial cat food. Look at the ingredients and find the food that has the most meat ingredients before the first non-meat ingredient. Avoid grains and gluten. Wheat gluten is a horrible thing to put in cat food. It is a cheap protein, and I'd bet that the manufacturer counts it as protein on the label, but cats bodies can't use it efficiently, if they can use it at all. Cats need animal protein.
Hope this helps, and I hope you didn't find the amount of detail offensive, but I don't know how knowledgeable you are.
We use what is called a "primary I.V. set". That's the tubing running from the bag to the needle. Keep it simple you don't need to pay for bells and whistles. I've also done this with with my parents' cat using a syringe instead of tubing. Once again this needs to be coordinate with your vet. You'll need to find out what gauge and length of needle your vet recommends. I use 18 gauge, 1.5 inches long. 1.5 inches long is a little bit longer than needed but 1inch has been too short. Their are sizes in between but my local source doesn't carry them. My vet says we can reuse the needle several times but we have found they dull after 1 use so we just buy them by the box and don't reuse them. Make sure you get instruction at your vet office on how to place the needle It might help to do your first injection at the vets office. It's natural to be a bit squeamish about injections but it is very effective. Johnny not only doesn't mind, but actually seems to want it. So does Binx (other cat). That might have something to do with giving them treats after-wards. It must not hurt too much because they come for it voluntarily.
Now as far feeding is concerned, and quality food is worth the price in the long run. I made my own food for a while but had to stop because it took to much time. Of course it didn't help that I was feeding 2 large dogs and 7 cats. 1 cat should be much easier. Initially my vet advised me strongly against this. Let me give you his main concerns: Cats have a much different digestive system than humans or dogs. They require nutrients that we synthesize but they can't. If those nutrients are not present in their food it can have dire consequences. Fortunately the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) has standards and Foster & Smith have published them. I'd give you a link but I've found that links sometimes get my posts held for review. I'll give you that info in a separate post. The other problem is related to the first . When cats eat in the wild they eat the whole prey, blood, organs, eyes and often bones. There are nutrients that aren't found in quantity in muscle, but cats still need them, for instance calcium. Now many raw feeders grind bone into the food and that probably works fine but the best source is actually blood, it's much more digestible. Packing houses drain the blood and you may not find a source. You can use supplements but make sure it is calcium HCL not calcium carbonate. There are nutrients that cats need which are mainly found in organs, eyes, brains, tongue, etc.... Finally some nutrients have to be balance against others and an imbalance can be toxic. So when you read "balanced" that is a very important word. I did a bunch of research, wrote a plan, and gave it to my vet. His concerns were answered and he got on board. I just want you to realize that home made food is not as simple as going to Wal-mart, buying a cheap bag of chicken quarters and feeding it to your cat. It's always important that your vet knows anytime you stray from the beaten path, since that info can be key to future diagnosis.
If you shop carefully and read the labels you can find good commercial cat food. Look at the ingredients and find the food that has the most meat ingredients before the first non-meat ingredient. Avoid grains and gluten. Wheat gluten is a horrible thing to put in cat food. It is a cheap protein, and I'd bet that the manufacturer counts it as protein on the label, but cats bodies can't use it efficiently, if they can use it at all. Cats need animal protein.
Hope this helps, and I hope you didn't find the amount of detail offensive, but I don't know how knowledgeable you are.
