Help with a reintroduction plan please :)

footissimo · Jul 10, 2006

Hiya!

Got a bit of a ginger cat problem

Had two cats for years, until one died 4-5 months ago. The remaining cat, a ginger 4 year old female called Chauz was on her own for a bit before I had the 'great'

idea of introducing another cat. Took ages in finding the right one after looking at a few rescue places..and found Dingbat, a 1-2 year old ginger male..get on well with other cats, friendly around people etc etc.

I planned on 3 weeks of keeping Dingbat upstairs and Chauz downstairs. This worked reasonably OK - the intervening door opened a few times (me forgetting or just air pressure from opening exterior doors). Also Dingbat got outside via the bathroom window and appeared through the downstairs door (clever bugger). When they met by accident, inevitable hissing ensued with Chauz running off.

I groomed them both with the same brush so they could get used to each other and generally tried to get them used to each other's smell without having to meet..then, a few weeks ago I let them meet.

Didn't go well, each time has ended up with Chauz hissing and screaming a lot (..and I mean really howling) and Dingbat walking off or deciding that he's had enough and attacking. Chauz then runs off and hides..or gets caught and ends up in a fight (ironically enough Dingbat is the one who has got scratched).

Anyway, the plan was to let them meet on their own terms, but only when I was around, but I've had to stop it of late as Chauz is getting reeeally nervy and the other day was out for most of the day (which is unusual, as she rarely goes out and will run back in within minutes if I put her out).

I don't know what to do

Dingbat is upstairs and all the bowls and litter is in my 2nd bedroom which has stopped me having people over to stay. Most of the time he can go out, but oly when the cat door downstairs is locked. Chauz is stuck downstairs now and most of the time, can't go out. It's not a great situation - it's a small house.

Any advice? The rescue place aren't very helpful at all. Oh both are neutered - Chauz has been for years and Dingbat from about 2 days before I got him.

Thanks in advance

zissou'smom · Jul 10, 2006

Well... what you described doesn't sound like it went all that badly, actually.

Feed them on either side of the door separating them at the same time, first. This will help them get used to the smell, do this a few days.
Then:

1) Get some feliway plug-ins. This will calm them both down considerably, and is well worth the expense.
2) Before bringing them back together, rub pure vanilla extract (not imitation) on the bottom of their chin and the base of the tail. This will make them smell the same, and thus, not threatening.

Once those have been on a couple hours try introducing them again. Maybe try putting them both in carriers and then putting the carriers close enough they can see each other, and then let them out when they stop swatting and hissing. That's kind of what cats do sometimes. You will have a little bit of fighting as they try to establish dominance. As long as they're not maiming each other (and they usually don't) let them do it for a couple minutes, and then try to distract them.

footissimo · Jul 10, 2006

Originally Posted by Zissou'sMom

Well... what you described doesn't sound like it went all that badly, actually.

Feed them on either side of the door separating them at the same time, first. This will help them get used to the smell, do this a few days.
Then:

1) Get some feliway plug-ins. This will calm them both down considerably, and is well worth the expense.
2) Before bringing them back together, rub pure vanilla extract (not imitation) on the bottom of their chin and the base of the tail. This will make them smell the same, and thus, not threatening.

Once those have been on a couple hours try introducing them again. Maybe try putting them both in carriers and then putting the carriers close enough they can see each other, and then let them out when they stop swatting and hissing. That's kind of what cats do sometimes. You will have a little bit of fighting as they try to establish dominance. As long as they're not maiming each other (and they usually don't) let them do it for a couple minutes, and then try to distract them.

Thankyou for the reply.

It's more Chauz's reaction that makes me say it hasn't gone well - she's like a frightened rabbit, poor thing

I can't do the 'feed them on each side of the door' thing as the door is right on the stairs - I'll be stepping in / knocking cat bowls whenever I'm at home

..but I can step up the grooming with the same brush thing, they both fluff up so they need it anyway

The Feliway and vanilla sound like good ideas - I only have the one carrier though, would it be best to get another..or just plonk one in and shut the door to the room. Also, how many times should this be done before actually letting them meet properly?

zissou'smom · Jul 10, 2006

If you have two cats you need two carriers. They don't have to be very expensive, mine's from Kmart I think and was only like 15$. As long as they work! How many times it needs to be done depends on how they act when you do it. If they throw themselves at the sides, you have a problem, if they just sort of hiss and growl and swat through the bars then a few times.

I don't mean feed them at the door constantly. I mean, put down their wet food by the door for one meal a day, just for half an hour or so. I know that would be hard on a stairwell but if there's any landing at all it could work.

Perhaps you should try it the other way? You brought Dingbat down the first time, maybe take Chauz up the second time and see if it's any different?

kittyluver27 · Jul 10, 2006

Well cats usually dont like having other cats around...when i lived in my old house my neighbor had a bunch of kittens and one time we brought one home just for the day to see how my kitty would react....same thing happend, my cat just hated it and was hissing and getting mad. I'm not sure if thats unusual but hopefully they will get used to each other in time. let them meet more. if they never meet they will never have time to get used to each other. also talk to the vet for suggestions. hope it works out

zissou'smom · Jul 11, 2006

You can't just throw two cats together like that and expect them not to be defensive. That would be like if another person showed up and moved into your apartment with you while you were at work. Surprise, roommate!

Cats do mostly enjoy the company of other cats. Most of the people on this board have more than one. And for people who are gone all of the day, it's a good idea to get two cats to keep each other company. There are very very very few cats who can only be the single cat in a household, and there is usually something in their history explaining why. Also, elderly cats and kittens aren't the best mix unless the elder is used to having a bunch of different cats around.

You can most certainly make it work, and within a few days of being used to each other you'll probably find them snuggled up somewhere together.

How's it going?

lotsocats · Jul 11, 2006

This is from the Best Friends Network

INTER-CAT AGGRESSION

From: Clinical Medicine for Small Animals. Dr. Karen Overall DVM, ACVB (Mosby 1997)
(Note: these are handouts that the author has given permission in the book for Veterinarians to copy and distribute to clients

Generally, inter-cat aggression occurs either between cats that have been recently introduced, or between those cats known to each other since kitten hood. It occurs when one of the cats becomes socially mature (sometime between two-five years of age), or when one cat perceives that the other cat in the household is becoming socially mature. Owners often comment that the cats lived together perfectly well for the first several years before suddenly becoming aggressive.

Treatment for this disorder focuses on establishing a social order that is tolerable for all cats involved, without danger of injury. The cats may never be best friends. But they may be able to get along together with a minimum of stress. Sometimes, the only solution is to find one of the cats another home. One thing is for sure, you should avoid getting any other cats. That would only added more fuel to the fire.

The basic protocol for solving this problem is as follows (source: Overall, K; Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, 1997):

1. Make sure all cats are neutered.

2. Trim all the nails as short as possible.

3. Whenever the cats are not directly supervised, they must be separated. The cat that is the aggressor should be banished to a less valuable or less desirable area. This does not mean a dark closet, a basement, outside, or a garage. Doing this would only teach the cat to avoid you. Instead, if the bulk of the aggression occurs in a bedroom or in front of a favorite window, let the cat that is being victimized have the valued area and put the aggressor into a neutral area like a spare room. Remember to provide water, food and litter boxes for all the cats.

4. Try to find out if there is a distance at which the cats can see each other, but at which they will not react aggressively while they eat. If such a distance exists, then there is a reasonable chance of being able to convince the cats to tolerate each other. You start by putting a dish of food for each cat that they love at this safe distance. This may mean that you have to change the feeding schedule or the type of food given. Several times throughout the day, bring the cats out and feed them at the safe distance. Let them eat this way for several days. Then gradually start moving the dishes closer a couple centimeters at a time until the cats can eat calmly side-by-side. If at any time you reach a distance in which the cats start showing aggression, anxiety, or fear, move the dishes back to the safe distance and start over. If you cannot succeed in getting the cats to eat side-by-side, let them eat at the distance at which they are happy. Remember, the goal is to decrease the anxiety-especially for the victim. Be very observant for any of the subtle signs of aggression-like staring. Watch how fast the cats eat. If the victim bolts the food and leaves, or doesn't want to eat, there are probably threats involved.

5. If marking and appropriate elimination is involved, use the appropriate behavioral modification in addition to what is outlined in this protocol.

6. Only allow the cats to freely mingle under the following circumstances:
-when they have the bell on their collars that allows you to distinguish between the individuals
-if you are able and willing to visually monitor the situation at all times
-if you carry a water pistol, compressed air canister, a whistle or a fog horn at all times. At the first sign of aggression, you must interrupt the cats by directing the device towards the aggressor. Use common sense in choosing the device to use.
-if the threats escalate to frank aggression, do not reach between the cats. You will get hurt and make the situation worse. If you must get involved, throw a blanket over the animals, or use a broom or a piece of cardboard to separate them.

7. Use harnesses and leashes for all involved cats. If there are two or more people in the household, you can take turns monitoring the cats. If you are alone, attached the leash of the aggressive cat to the furniture and hold the leash of the other cat. The cats should be restrained at a distance at which they cannot touch each other even if they lunge. Find a food treat that they love. Any time the cats ignore each other praise them vigorously and given the treat. If the aggressor voluntarily looks away from the victim, reward that. If the victim stares at the aggressive cat reward that. Do not give a treat to any cat that shows signs of aggression, fear, or anxiety. These include shaking, cringing and hiding.

8. Use a harness to correct the cat verbally or with a startle at the first sign of any aggression. If the aggression continues, banish the aggressive cat to the undesirable area.

9. Use the harnesses to arrange the cats so that they can't reach each other. Then alternate between the involved cats and groom and massage them. Start with the victim. The goal is to get them to not react to each other. Any cat that react aggressively is banished. You can couple a favorable response to food treats. If the cats ignore each other gradually begin to move them closer together. They should not become distressed or aggressive by the moves. If they do, separate them and try again at a greater distance.

10. If the cats are able to lie side-by-side without becoming distressed or aggressive and if they can eat together, you can leave them alone for gradually increasing amounts of time. If you notice at any time that either cats is injured or avoiding the other cat repeat the previous steps. Some cats will never tolerate being close together but can live peaceful and separate lives in the same house.

11. Cats generally require and use more space than the average house or apartment gives them. Adding three-dimensional space can help in the form of kitty condos, cardboard boxes, beds and crates in all rooms once the reintroduction of the cats has begun.

12. Some cats may benefit from antianxiety medication. If medication needed, it is used to complement the behavior modification process and not to replace it.

Help with a reintroduction plan please :)

footissimo

TCS Member

Thread starter

zissou'smom

TCS Member

footissimo

TCS Member

Thread starter

zissou'smom

TCS Member

kittyluver27

TCS Member

zissou'smom

TCS Member

lotsocats

TCS Member

Latest Posts

Connect with us