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Cat is peeing on my clothes.

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 

Hi, this will take a little explaining so bear with me. I have two cats, Juliet who is around 7, and Selene who is around 5. Both are female and spayed. About a year ago there started being pee accidents near the litter boxes everyonce in awhile, usually when I'd missed a day cleaning them, so I assumed (At first) it was a hint that I needed to get on the cleaning a little better. Then it started happening more often, and then they started peeing on my shoes. Ruined a number of pairs of shoes. But I had no idea which cat it was so I put off taking them to the vet initially until I could figure it out. I finally caught Juliet leaving "the scene of the crime" so I figured it was her and took her to the vet. The vet took a urine sample, which came back clean, so the vet decided it was behavioral and told me to give Juliet buspirone pills twice a day. But the problem persisted, so I took in a sample that I collected from the floor for urinalysis. That one came back chock full of struvite crystals. So the cats got put on a fancy prescription anti-crystal food called Urinary S/O. But the problem persisted. And then out of nowhere, clothes that were left on the bedroom floor started getting peed on, and once I caught my other cat Selene starting to pee on a pair of my fiance's pants that he'd just taken off. So I took her to the vet. Her urinalysis came back normal. So the vet recommended Valium this time, for both of them. I got a repeat urine check from Juliet to make sure the crystals were cleared up, which they were. I've been giving them both 0.5mg of Valium twice a day now for a few months and still every time any article of clothing is on the floor for more than five minutes, it gets peed on. And if we don't hang up the bathmat after showers, it gets peed on. A quilt that my almost mother-in-law made me fell off the couch the other day and was promptly peed on. So I finally set a trap to figure out which cat it was that's actually doing the peeing. I set my laptop to record and set a pair of shorts on the floor so I could catch it on video. Literally not five minutes after I did this, it was peed on by Selene.

 

I can't afford to keep taking these cats to the vet, especially when there's never anything wrong with them. The food they're on to prevent crystals is $60 for 17lbs and it hasn't stopped the problem. My fiance is threatening to put them in boxes and take them to the humane society when I'm not home and come back with two kittens instead. I don't think he'd actually do it (he knows I'd kill him), but I know he's tempted. I use a wheat-based litter, called Schweet scoop, which I've used since I adopted them both four years ago. Both cats use the box, I've seen them do it. The only other idea I've got is to try a different litter, my fiance's mom suggested maybe they could be allergic to the litter or something. I'll try just about anything at this point.

 

Sorry for the long explanation, but I am at my wits end about what to do. Does anyone have any other ideas?

post #2 of 29
Ok, let me try and help. They are marking your all over the place and the clothes, hmmm they are upset.
Do not get mad at what I am going to ask.
1. How much play time do you do with them?
2. Who is doing all the feeding?
3. Is a stray cat marking all over outside of your home?
4. Go to the My Cat From Hell and take a look at some of the issues, he will help.

You may need to set up a 3rd cat box in a different part of the house. They need to be played with at least 20 minutes or more a day. Get them running and jumping. Do they have a high cat condo by a window? If they feel that maybe your boyfriend does not like them they will act out.

Sometimes a cat will need to be put on Prozac, or they are feeling that the are not part of this house so they will pee every place they can to let you know Hey
This is my spot. They will pee outside your litter box to say not clean or for some reason it may be painful to climb in. I hope this helps some.
post #3 of 29

Hi, and welcome to TCS wavey.gif

 

This is such a problem as it's so hard to live with.  But I've noticed you say 'both cats use the box', and I'm wondering if you just have one box?  My cat wee-ed everywhere (but usually in the sink or shower than heavens) will I discovered she won't wee where she poos.  So I got another box and all went well until I got Sundar.  Similar problem. Four litter boxes later and there are absolutely no accidents.

 

You would know, I'm sure, to clean areas very, very thoroughly.  And Felliway diffusers can work wonders. smile.gif

post #4 of 29
Thread Starter 

I have two boxes. I know having a third would be better, but we're in a small apartment and there really isn't a good place to put a third one right now. Both cats will poop and pee in both boxes. Do the feliway things really work? They're like $40 I think, so I didn't really want to spend a bunch of money on another thing that would end up not working. But if it actually helps...

post #5 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCrow54 View Post Do the feliway things really work? They're like $40 I think, so I didn't really want to spend a bunch of money on another thing that would end up not working. But if it actually helps...


There's no guarantee, I'm afraid... It's been known to, but it really depends on the cause.

I'm sure you make sure both boxes are pretty immaculate?  They may just hate any sign of use.  That's when more litterboxes come in handy (I do understand the space thing, though.. what about more, but smaller?)

post #6 of 29

I would definately try feliway.  When we have it on it helps a lot - no pee issues.  When it runs out and we are in a phase of trying without it, pee incidents happen.  Its a small price to pay in relation to vet costs and it may help...give it a go.  

 

Work on the behavioural side of things too - from the small amount you have reported of the vet visit, it seems meds rather than re-traininginfo/enviromental modification info have been offered?  (On that front also, the special anti-crystal diet should only be used short term - hope this was explained, and that they should be on a wet diet.)  Do all the things to make a happy stress free cat.  Rigorously scoop those trays- space is an issue here and I'm actually thinking our cat wants a separate pee and poo box, but I'm trying to hold out for the moment (as we get another cat soon so another box for her), which meansI'm there the minute it's used, scooping.  I also watch and encourage...if I know he wants to go (scratching on a pillow for instance, looking in the box and then getting distracted andleaving as another, or exiting after a poo...cause I know he needs to pee next, just as soon as I clean!!), I gently put him in the box saying 'here's the toilet, here's the right place' and say stupid happy things when he goes!  I never scold for inappropriate pees - I do express that I am very sad.  Seems like your cat/s are fairly consistent in targetting soft things left around...do a set up for training.  You could also trial a softer cat litterr in one box to see if it is preferred (I think Jackson galaxy recommended one that is softer - I'm not familiar with wht you use or what is available to you as not in your country.)

 

Peeing on shoes is very personal, as your scent is strong in shoes.  Try to figure out the triggers.  I know ours is stress - and he pees on our bed/pillows.  They say peeing on 'your scent stuff' is stress related as it mixes their scent with yours and makes them feel better.  (hence feliway is useful).  It obviously helps to understand cat psyche and the interpretation they can have of actions/events.  Even the upset/anger/stress exhibited by your other half/between you could be contributing. (Kato has peed in our times of illness, and when we have had argument, and when we have packed to goon holiday).

 

The only other thing I can suggest is to be anal about putting things away lol!

post #7 of 29
Thread Starter 

Huh, the vet said once they had crystals they should stay on the anticrystal food indefinitely to prevent recurrence. We've tried scooping the box every day twice a day and there was no change. The clothes peeing just started about 4 months ago, the shoe peeing has stopped now. I think it was Juliet that was peeing on shoes when she had crystals and now that her crystals have been resolved that seems to have stopped. But I have no idea why Selene suddenly started peeing on all the clothes. It started shortly after moving to a new apartment, but I have moved three times with these cats and it never happened before. The shoe peeing problems started in the second apartment, this is the fourth they've lived in. We try to be really good about keeping clothes off the floor, but if something falls out of the hamper, or off the bed if laundry is waiting to be folded, or if the blankets fall off the couch or the bed, it gets peed on. One time she had even climbed inside the basket of clean clothes that I'd set on the floor and peed in there. We have covered boxes right now, but we've tried uncovering them with no change. I haven't been able to determine any kind of pattern in the pee incidents either, it'll be fine for a few weeks and then it'll happen every day for a few weeks and nothing that I can think of will have changed in the environment.

 

Can you explain what you meant about behavioral training a little more? I've been thinking about how to retrain her but I've been coming up with a blank. Also, I'm in nursing school so I'm away from home a lot, as is my fiance who works. But I was in school when I adopted them, which is why I adopted two cats, so they could keep each other company when I was away at school a lot. So that is also nothing new.

post #8 of 29

Even though they are used to being moved, there's no saying how they will relate to it the next time.

I know it's an expense, but do try the Feliway if you can.  heart.gif

post #9 of 29
Something else that no one has mentioned yet is black lights and enzyme cleaners. If even a *tiny* bit of pee smell lingers it will attract them back to the spot, like a neon sign.
Keep in mind this is smell to *them* not to you. There can be minute residue left over that normal cleaners don't get out (even on clothes that have been washed in the machine) so you have to use enzyme cleaners to get them out. Use a black light to search your clothes and the floor, and if anything glows, you've found your problem.

I also agree that all the moving may have caused them enough stress that they attach themselves to items that smell like you because it is familiar and comforting.

And yes, you do not have to feed the prescription food forever. However it is better to play it safe and make sure both cats get Plenty of water, either from a pet fountain, or even better, canned food. If you can feed that every day, wonderful! If you can only do it a couple times a week, it's still better. agree.gif
post #10 of 29
Thread Starter 
I'll try to find the feliway stuff, like I said at this point I'll give just about anything a try! I have some "urine destroyer" enzymatic cleaning stuff, I'm going to use that with a steam cleaner I'm borrowing from my finance's mom. I've been spot cleaning each time i find something peed on but i want to give the whole floor a good thorough cleaning with that. I'll try putting it in the wash too when I wash our clothes. Can anyone recommend a decent brand of cheap-ish wet food? I used to get them friskies food but then I realized how much crud was in that stuff and decided maye they'd be better off without.
post #11 of 29

Hi RCrow54

 

1.  For everything you need to know about urinary health (feline that is!).  Written by a vet who also knows feline nutrition.  Most vets don't know about nutrition so end up unwittingly being sales reps for food companies...in the case of urinary health, it has been, in many cases, the sad case that food companies have caused the stones (too alkaline a diet- kibble), then make a solution by creating an acidifying diet so the alkaline stones are dissolved...more profit.  (But, did the vet test if the stones WERE alkaline or acidic?).  Anyway, scroll down to the bottom to get to the section about prescription diets and when and for how long they are appropriate (and why it is not good to feed for a long time).  http://www.catinfo.org/?link=urinarytracthealth  

 

2.  Same site has awesome nutrition info.  Read to your hearts content.  She does include a list of canned food she thinks is reasonable nutrition wise (don't know costs as I don't live there, sorry.).  Again, scroll right down to the bottom if you just want the list http://www.catinfo.org/?link=cannedfoods#Commercial_Foods

 

3.I think someone already posted this link to peeing solutions: http://www.thecatsite.com/t/9563/inappropriate-peeing-problems-answered.  You might find a few behavioural training tips there.  My middle para of last post are the behavioural training ideas I use; replacing the cat in the box when they indicate they need to go, encouragement and happy noises as they go (never negative discipline for a misplaced pee), and I think a training set up where you wait and watch for your cats to indicate they want to use a deliberately left out soft thing and relocate them positively to the box would be really good. I think this relocation/positive praise works, as you catch them right at the decision point and give them the 'happy' outcome.  I even see the cogs going in Kato's head as he scratches on our bed and I ask 'do you need the toilet'...he then races off the bed for the box!  He's still fairly young, and as all the smells are still there on the mattress (for HIM - even under black light there is nothing to us), I see that he is getting some confusing messages (new mattress arrives tomorrow!).  I work on the theory of laying a footpath in the brain to the right outcome - the more you tread a footpath, the more noticed and prominent it becomes.  Same for thoughts.  It means repetition.  The most repetition wins - in your case, there's some catching up to top the number of 'incorrect' messages they have made in peeing inappropriately.  

 

The other aspect of behavioural training is allowing the learning to take place.  (I'm a teacher).  Think about a school class - its over 40degrees, you've been picked on at lunchtime, you've got a tummyache, and your parents had a fight this morning.  How much learning can happen?  You have to drain off the stress, and create a nice physical environment.  So, apply the same principles to felines.  Put the litter boxes in the places they like - not dirty or over-used, no noise, no ambush space, no cover is often preferred, and not in an out of the way difficult to get to place.  Then drain off the stress.  You might not know what stress there is, or think there is none, but there's always something and you need to keep the level down so things don't build up.  How do you drain the stress? PLAY.  Everyday.  It takes work, and you'll need to find out how they best like their play.  Also create routines - routines are very soothing for a cat.  An easy one is play-eat-groom-sleep (courtesy Jackson Galaxy).  This means you play with them before feeding them...they'll do the rest!  And we all have our own routines with our cats.  Ours is a one hour walk every morning first thing - and boy do we hear about it if we are late!!  We also have a love fest routine if we are chopping meat - Kato will come and sit on the microwave ledge and this is the signal that we handfeed some of the cut meat with lots of verbal loves.  Another is a particular type of goodbye when we leave, and a particular fuss when we come back.  I'm sure you've got heaps if you think about it...now just be conscious of them/make an even bigger special thing out of them.  And don't forget to do them!

 

4.  Enzyme cleaner = good.  Black light = so so helpful.  But follow the directions on the urine enzyme cleaner.  Ours is a bit of a process - you can't just chuck it into the wash (need a few days of soak in the cleaner, allow to dry, then wash and dry again).  Just check the directions on yours.

 

Best wishes for success!!

post #12 of 29
Fancy Feast classics are pretty cheap and carb free, so they are a good option.
You can also buy large cans (13oz and up) online of Evo and Nature's Variety that are usually really cheap per oz.
post #13 of 29
Thread Starter 
So I got the feliway diffuser two days ago and put it in the bedroom since that's where most of the pee problems are happening. The next day the bathmat got peed on, and then last night Selene peed on the edge of the comforter where it was touching the floor off the bed. How long do the diffusers usually take to help?
post #14 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCrow54 View Post

So I got the feliway diffuser two days ago and put it in the bedroom since that's where most of the pee problems are happening. The next day the bathmat got peed on, and then last night Selene peed on the edge of the comforter where it was touching the floor off the bed. How long do the diffusers usually take to help?

 

It doesn't work immediately.  Still, I'd have hoped for some change, but give it some more time.

 

It's a fabric on the floor thing, isn't it.... That's the trigger.  You have cleaned everything scrupulously with an enzyme cleaner?  Even the faintest hint of scent (cat smelling them, not you) will set them off.

 

If you're really desperate, I'd be doing a whole retraining thing. In one room with the diffuser and cat litters.  Three boxes (I know there's the space thing but you need to break this cycle). It may be worth trying some other litter.  No fabric on the floor.

post #15 of 29
Thread Starter 
Yeah, any fabric any the floor, including just the edge of our comforter trailing on the floor while we were in bed frown.gif. I've spot cleaned any pee spots I've found, as soon as I get a bit more time I'm going to steam-clean the whole bedroom floor. But it's happened on the fake wood in the living room too. Like today, my sweater fell off the back of the chair in the living room and got peed on.
post #16 of 29

I would say a behaviourist, but I do understand that money is as issue.

I know we're all harping on about it, but things must be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner and immaculately.  That's just to keep things manageable.  The root of the problem is a behavioural 'fabric on the floor' thing.

I know you thought the random peeing was them telling you to change the litter more regularly initially.  Was there anything else at all that was happening around that time?  Are there any other cats that they can see in the area?

Also, one out of left field: some washing detergents can say 'wee on me' to an animal.  Have you washed most of the items that are weed on?

 

I honestly think I'd go for the whole retraining thing and using the Feliway.

post #17 of 29
Thread Starter 
With the initial pee problems it was on the floor near the litter box, which is why I had thought it was a comment on the cleanliness of the box. I'm pretty sure Juliet was the culprit in those incidents, she's the one that ended up having crystals. Then shoes started getting peed on, which I think was still Juliet. Then I moved to a new apartment, with my boyfriend and his friend. The shoe peeing continued then, and another 7 months later my boyfriend (now fiancé) and I moved out to our own apartment. Shortly after that the cloth peeing started, which I now know to be Selene. Since solving Juliet's crystal problem the shoe peeing has stopped but the cloth peeing hasn't.
post #18 of 29
Thread Starter 
Oh, and I've washed everything that's been peed on numerous times. She's peed on basically both my am my finances entire wardrobe by this point, so yes, I wash everything. The detergents we use have changed a few times since the problem started.
post #19 of 29

I just found this from Anne (the owner of the site).  It seems to really resonate with your situation:

 

I find that cats are most mysterious when it comes to substrate preference. That is the fancy way of saying what cats pee on. Some cats that have lived outside and then are made into inside cats, will seek out potted plants. Some cats that have had urinary tract infections (UTI), will seek out substrates that are soft (and warm). Even when the cat no longer has an UTI, s/he will return to and potty on the substrate that was most comfortable.

Here is how it works: Cat has an UTI. It is painful to urinate (anywhere). It is less painful to urinate in a soft, WARM pile of laundry. Cat potties in the fresh warm pile of clothes. Cat does this for some time before human figures out that cat has UTI. Cat either battles UTI or human figures it out and takes cat to vet. Cat is better. Cat continues to urinate on fresh pile of laundry. Aargh! Why? Because the cat has developed a substrate preference based on conditioning. The cat is avoiding painful elimination, even when the cat no longer has the UTI. The cat has developed an association with the old litter box and pain. To fix this problem, take a small, freshly laundered rag and place it in the cat’s box. Encourage the cat to use her box again by limiting her access to anywhere away from her box. A laundry room – keeping all fresh laundry away from the cat – or low traffic bathroom is good for this training). She can only come out of her training room when she is being supervised. Do this for about 3 or 4 days. She will be retrained to use her box. Of course you will be cleaning her box frequently (at LEAST once a day) as cats hate messy boxes.

With all of the above being said (and true for many cats), some cats will just decide that the fresh laundry has odors that need to be modified. There are mixed theories that try to explain this behavior. Here is the one I most agree is correct. We humans secrete ammonias through our sweat. We also try to modify these odors in our garments with detergents and perfumes. These detergents and perfumes mask the odors effectively for our mere human noses.

 

And this takes us back to my previous suggestion that retraining is really the way to go. And using the Feliway diffuser as an added bonus.

post #20 of 29
Thread Starter 
What I don't understand is that 90% of the time, she pees in the box. It's usually only once a day that she pees on something else. Or it'll go a week without incident and then she'll pee on something else every day for the next week. If it were a litter box aversion I would think that she would never (or rarely) use the box. Or am I mistaken?
post #21 of 29

Unfortunately for us mere humans,mistaken.  Cats don't think with nice human rationality (they have nice cat rationalitylaughing02.gif).  It could be another mysterious thing that sets her off on these occasions, or any small variation in smells, stress, routine, how she's feeling etc, that just trip the wire that 'it's nice to pee here' - because that wire has already been created.

 

We are still in training mode too; no stress in the house at present, but we do have a new mattress and pillows (with foreign and interesting smells), so we are being vigilant - no cat in bedroom without active supervision.    Sure enough, Kato jumped on the sheet part of the made up bed (pillows already put away in cupboard, most of the bed covered in his rugs) and scratched around and lowered himself a little.  I put my hand under him to interrupt any thoughts of peeing (he did a cartwheel thinking I was playing, landing with belly and feet up!), and then he left the room.  Just 10secs later when I went out, I could see him peeing in his box.  He got tonnes of praise and made blinky eyes at me from the box, so he knew he did the right thing.  I'm working on the theory of never letting them refresh that wrong pee idea, and always to refresh the right pee idea, until this becomes the dominant behavioural thought 'wire' in their head.  It takes absolute vigilance; which is why the small room confinement works in cases where the inappropriate peeing is happening over a wide space. You know this is a safe room where they can't do the bad peeing - the only lovely pee option in the room is the clean litter box.  Then you let them out only under your gaze so instance re-routing can be given.  (In our situation, with the bad peeing only happening in one room, it obviously works in reverse but still with the same principle; access to the areas where only good peeing is the pattern, strict supervision in the liable areas.)

post #22 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCrow54 View Post

What I don't understand is that 90% of the time, she pees in the box. It's usually only once a day that she pees on something else. Or it'll go a week without incident and then she'll pee on something else every day for the next week. If it were a litter box aversion I would think that she would never (or rarely) use the box. Or am I mistaken?


I can only assume that it is a habit that has taken hold, and there is probably a trigger.  I don't know what that is, although the UTI and stress are a likely combination.

You have moved a lot.. there has been a lot of disruption in their lives and that can lead to stress which is often a factor in these things. 

Retraining is really the option now.

post #23 of 29

I SERIOUSLY recommend that you change your vet. You vet is obviously someone who doesn't understand that cats have personalities and issues just like people. You do not prescribe valium and such stuff to cats because they are peeing.  I have had cats all my life(seriously there's picture of me with cats when I'm a baby) and currently have four. This has happened to me lots and lots of times. Unless there is a definitive medical cause like UTI etc, it is obviously a behavioral issue. Sometimes some cats start with a UTI but then continue the behavior when UTI is gone because they are still unhappy with something. Here's my advice:

-try a whole lot of different types of litters. My cats don't like the wheat, some of them are okay with the corn, one of them will only go on your plain ol normal clay type litter(though I sneak in some corn litter and she's fine when its a combination). Also, go buy a whole bunch of litterboxes (buy them off craigslist or buy the disposable ones they sell at pet stores or supermarkets) and put them everywhere you can think of(at some point have like 10 litterboxes at the same time) and see which are being used the most and then keep the 2 or 3 top used. They might hate the location of the current litterboxes. We currently have one litterbox in the laundry room,  two in the garage in different corners of the garage, and one in our bathroom(remember I have four cats)

-change their food a few times. Look up articles about only feeding cats dry food or only feeding them wet food. For most cats its not a good idea to only stick to wet or dry. In my experience cats' systems work the best when they get both(also helps ward off UTI's). We feed our cats only twice a day in morning and night and in the morning we give them dry food and at night we split a large can of wet food between them and add in a little bit of the dry. We like Hills Science the most after trying exhaustive brands but we do switch it up and add in a few cans of different brands of food every once so they won't get bored with the same food and hopefully get different types of nutrients. Oh also make sure they have lots of clean water and more than one water bowl. We have three in different areas of the house.

-buy a lot of cat trees or cat window sill perches(again craigslist or ebay if you can't afford)

-for areas that they keep going back to pee on, try spreading a light coat of lemon powder(or lemon oil but powder is cheaper) all over the area if you can(if it won't damage the area). You will have to keep adding a little bit more every once in a while(like every other day or every two days) for a long time like weeks or months until it stops. Cats don't like lemon scent. Here's a few links of cheap lemon powder https://www.spicesforless.com, http://www.abesmarket.com/frontier-bulk-lemon-peel-powder-certified-organic-1-lb-package.html.

-If you allow them to go out, make sure they go out more often. If you don't allow them to go out, the more reason to give them tons of window perches on various different windows to look out. Our cats are allowed to go out every single day for at least a few minutes but they are outside almost all day on weekends and from 5-8pm during the week after work. Except for winter, they hardly go out as they don't like the cold. They usually come right in when we call them knowing they are going to be fed soon. Yup you guessed it, we do have cat doors to the outside and luckily they are lockable so we are able to control when they go out.

-Buy them lots of different beds until you figure out what they like. Cats really like it when they are made to feel special. Our cats have a combination of a cube like bed they sink it to which they love, hammock type bed, and even a big fluffy dog bed. Though they love sleeping our bed lots of the time also.

-Lastly, I have to go there, don't get mad at me, but It is very common that cats display this pee all over the place behavior when they are being yelled at, locked up in rooms(or locked out of rooms and kept away from interaction they want from their owners), physically hit, ignored for long periods of time etc. Make sure no one is doing anything at all mean to them.

If all of this doesn't work and you decide to get rid of them, please find and take them to a center that has a no kill policy please.

If you actually read all of this, well thanks for reading all of this :)

post #24 of 29
I have this same problem. cat rarely pees in her box. she is 4 yr old calico, spayed/neutered. she goes for the clothes. she seems to be in great health but. visit to the vet my be in her future. she doesn't pee on furniture or rugs or carpet. but bottom of laundry shoot seems to be her new fav place.

two environmental factors can be mentioned since this started. we babysitted a small dog for a week, they tolerated each other. we figure she may be mad at us because of the dog. he had returned a few times but only for the day.

the second factor is we have begun to let her outside under supervision. she loves it, she has been an indoor cat for her first few years we got here when she was almost 3. she has all her claws and loves to play. she doesn't like people food or cat treats, she likes to play and cuddle. But now she may be peeing because she can't go outside all the time? only when we let her...30mins every few days
post #25 of 29

I agree with Mani, retraining your cats is the best solution to your problem. I also live in a small apartment and have two cats so I understand how horrifying a problem like yours can be.

If I were you, I would try to do, at least while you retrain them, everything people have recommended here. I.e. playing with them, feeding them healthy food, getting rid of any odor that might encourage them peeing in the wrong places again, maintaining a clean litter box, making sure they have enough scratch pots, etc. 

 

But the crucial part is the training. Locking them up in an area with the litter box available is, in my opinion, the way to go. Then, reprimanding them when they do it anywhere outside their box is what I would do. 

 

When one of my cats peed where she shouldn't (granted, this has happened only once to my kitten Coco, but I would do the same again) I made absolutely sure she understands she should not do that. Yes, this may be controversial, but I took her firmly her by the neck (without hurting her) and pushed/rubbed her nose against the peed place while at the same time making harsh noises with a piece of paper or newspaper against her body and face, so she was very scared. I am usually very loving and gentle with both my babies, so to get that reaction from me definitely sent the message that I was extremely unhappy. She also slept in the bathroom by herself, while her brother Banjo slept with me. It broke my heart but had to be done. She and Banjo were only allowed into the area where this happened under supervision for about a week. If this horrible experience only happens when they pee when they shouldn't, I bet they'll eventually stop, especially if everything else is as it should be.

post #26 of 29

Yes, it is controversial Coco and Rose - because it is not good training.  Rubbing noses in business done outside the litter box is old school thinking, and we have come a long way from that.  In my opinion, it is abuse. Cats don't WANT to go outside the litter box, it is contrary to their nature, and they have an abhorrence for 'mess', so shoving their acutely sensitive noses into smelly, acidic/basic substances HURTS.  When cats go in an 'inappropriate' spot, it is for a definite reason, so it is up to the humans to figure it out, (we wouldn't shove pee or poo in a human's face if they burst into tears, or were incontinent - it's the same thing.)

 

I have had a long road in working with my Kato who pees on our bed in times of stress - but I know WHY he does it (heck, he even did it when unbeknown to us, my husband had leukemia - he was diagnosed 1 week later), and I have a recipe of techniques to live happily in a clean bed.  We can help our cats - both in the underlying causes, and in the behaviour we don't want - with humane methods.Cruel methods risk harm, making us 'monsters' in their eyes, and exacerbating their stress - which effects their health, and both of these things can lead to inappropriate elimination...just the thing we want to fix, not perpetuate.

post #27 of 29

I never said it was "good training" it is simply what I do with my cats when everything else (and on top of everything else) fails. I don't think it's inhumane, but I do think it is harsh. And especially harsh for a kitten, like my Coco, who I am sure did not do it on purpose. (I think in this occasion the attraction might have been a few lose papers that were on top of the bed, which most have had a funny smell.) Regardless, this harsh reprimand has worked for all the previous cats in the family, and like spanking for kids, I agree it is "old school thinking" and I don't particularly like doing it either. I think patience, as well as a healthy and loving environment along with play eat love and a clean litter-box is absolutely essential. Hopefully more cat owners can be like you and never need to resource to such methods. 

post #28 of 29
Quote:
 I never said it was "good training"

Then please don't advocate it as a 'last resort' method - it is not good.  Because I agree with you here,  many 'more cat owners can be like you and never need to resource to such methods ' - they (and you) really can!

post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by tammyp View Post

Then please don't advocate it as a 'last resort' method.

Haha, I'm not advocating. Simply voicing my opinion and also my personal experience, in this particular case, in hope it might help Juliet, Selene and their owners.
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