Urinary blockage and water intake

Eca

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Hi, everyone. I have a five year old male cat named Sachi. About a week ago, he was hospitalized due to partial urinary obstruction. Five months ago, he had the exact same problem, so this is the second time he's having urinary obstruction.

The first time it happened, he was catheterized the vet told me that he had urethral plug. The vet took an x ray (no ultrasound unfortunately) and nothing odd was found. I was told to feed him royal canin s/o and that's basically it.

Here's the problem. He literally choose to starve instead of eating the royal canin s/o. Since I adopted Sachi from the streets when he's about three months old, getting him to eat and drink is extremely difficult and frustrating at times because he's very picky. I feed him mainly canned wet food mixed with a little bit of water and sometimes he'll nibble on few kibbles (about 5-6 pieces). He's not a big eater, no matter how much he likes the food. He will only eat about 1-2 tablespoons of wet food at a time, three times a day tops. No more than that.
To add insult to injury, he also hates drinking water. I very rarely see him drinking water, that's why I add water to his wet food every time. I tried so hard to entice him to drink; using many different size, height, shape, color, material of the water bowl, place them in different locations, using tap & bottled water, flavor the water with broth, tuna juice, catnip, etc, using water fountain, he's not having any of it. He also won't eat if I add too much water to his wet food.

This time when he's hospitalized, I took him to a bigger clinic. The vet took an ultrasound that shows many urinary crystals in his bladder, most likely struvite. Again, I was told to feed him royal canin s/o exclusively and to increase his water intake (about 200 ml a day) to increase the chance of crystal dissolution and prevent another obstruction. I told the vet that's basically impossible since he hates the food and even if he likes the food, getting him to drink 200 ml worth of liquid a day is another impossibility. To my disappointment, the vet can't give me any advice.

The first couple of days at home after hospitalization was so hard. Leave alone the prescription food, Sachi won't even smell his favorite wet food (fancy feast chicken liver pate). He already lost quite a lot of weight and not eating will only worsen his condition. So I force feed him royal canin recovery using a syringe. No matter how hard I tried, he won't get the amount of food and water he need. If anything, the force feeding hurt both of us emotionally.

By the second night, I'm aware that he's dehydrated and there's no 24 hour clinic where I live. I tried my best to get my hands on IV fluids and needle. Thanks to the countless tutorials on the internet about how to give subq fluid to cats, I successfully put 150 ml in without a fight. The next morning, I took him back to the vet. I asked about putting a feeding tube but the vet outright refused the idea. Instead, he gave me Urimav tablets (ammonium chloride to acidify the urine) and told me to continue subq fluids 200 ml a day (twice a day, 100 ml in the morning and 100 ml at night) for as long as necessary. The vet also told me that at this moment, getting Sachi to eat was the first priority to avoid hepatic lipidosis, so I can give him anything as long as he's eating, but it'll be better if the food has low ash content.

So, fast forward to this day... Sachi's been getting his subq fluid (ringer lactate) everyday, he starts to eat by himself little by little. I bought many different kinds of struvite dissolving foods for him like Hill's s/d, Happy Cat struvite, Purina ProPlan urinary, etc. Right now, all he wants to eat is a little of the royal canin s/o gravy (not the morsels) and some Purina One urinary kibbles. He mainly eats canned wet food (mixed with a little water and the prescribed Urimav) with less than 2% ash content, about more or less 1/2 cup (125 ml) amount each day. He pees quite a lot (3-4 times a day, fist sized clumps each time). Because I'm so paranoid, I bought pH test strips to check his urine pH. I know it isn't the most reliable or accurate method, but the strips showed pH around 6 so far.

Now I'm really worried about what's next. I know he will never be able to drink that much water each day to keep his bladder healthy. He also won't properly eat the prescription food. It seems to me like he'll need the subq fluid and medication for the rest of his life. I feel like I'm just avoiding the inevitable. The vet has informed me about the necessity of PU surgery if the obstruction happened again in the future, but it doesn't guarantee the obstruction won't happen again. Honestly, I'm ready for the surgery but at this point I'm trying my absolute best to prevent the obstruction from happening again.

Does anyone ever faced the same problem or has any advice to offer? Thank you so much and I'm sorry for such a long post.
 

silent meowlook

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Hi. The more information, the better. So please don't apologize for a long post.
I have questions:
You stated that struvite crystals were suspected on ultrasound. Did they do a urinalysis? That would be the way to diagnose the type of crystals.
Is there a feline only veterinarian in your area? I have concerns with some of the things that your vet told you about ash content in food.
Is this your only cat?
Is this cat indoor only?
Is he a nervous cat?
Did they do full blood work when he was at the vet? Do you remember the results?
 

silent meowlook

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Urinary problems in cats is linked to stress. Try to think of anything that may be stressing him at home. Cats have some basic needs that must be met if they are indoor cats. These are a place to feel safe. Some place up high where they can watch everything that goes on. Places they can scratch that are horizontal, and vertical with different materials to scratch on. Two clean litter pans with their preferred unscented litter. The litter pans must be in an area they feel safe to use. Food and water with the food and water kept apart from each other. Also in places where he feels safe. And very important, the ability to hunt. I don't expect anyone to bring in live mice. But playtime is extremely important to cats. Sometimes you have to try many different toys to find one they really like. Most cats like the wand toy called "Da Bird". They need a designated play time that is consistent every day at the same time each day and for a decent amount of time. Usually best to do the pay time before offering food.

To encourage drinking the water fountains work well. There is also a veterinary product called Hydrocare that is a packet of tasty liquid that encourages them to drink.

SQ fluids are great but I would only be doing them once a day. Twice a day seems excessive. Always make sure that the fluids from the previous administration have fully absorbed before giving more.

I haven't heard of anyone using urinary acidifiers in a long time. Be careful with that if they don't know what kind of crystals there are. Also if you are giving the urinary diet along with the acidifier, you run the risk of his urine being too acidic and causing a different type of crystal.

I have seen many cats get the PU surgery and still continue to get blocked. I personally don't think it is a great idea, but that's just my opinion.

Has your vet given him anything for pain? This is a painful condition and should be treated as such. Pain leads to stress that leads to more urinary problems and it is a vicious cycle.
 
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Eca

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Hi. The more information, the better. So please don't apologize for a long post.
I have questions:
You stated that struvite crystals were suspected on ultrasound. Did they do a urinalysis? That would be the way to diagnose the type of crystals.
Is there a feline only veterinarian in your area? I have concerns with some of the things that your vet told you about ash content in food.
Is this your only cat?
Is this cat indoor only?
Is he a nervous cat?
Did they do full blood work when he was at the vet? Do you remember the results?
Unfortunately no urinalysis was done. I really don't know why it wasn't done, but the clinic is the biggest and supposedly the best equipped in my area.
There's also no feline only vet here, but there's one feline "specialist" in the neighboring city about two hours away. Can you tell me more about your concern about the ash content in food?
He's indoor only. I have two other cats and they get along well. He's quite a nervous cat, very nervous sometimes especially when he heard loud noises.
They did full blood work and nothing was off except that he's a little dehydrated. They did another blood work when he's discharged and everything was normal.
 
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Eca

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Urinary problems in cats is linked to stress. Try to think of anything that may be stressing him at home. Cats have some basic needs that must be met if they are indoor cats. These are a place to feel safe. Some place up high where they can watch everything that goes on. Places they can scratch that are horizontal, and vertical with different materials to scratch on. Two clean litter pans with their preferred unscented litter. The litter pans must be in an area they feel safe to use. Food and water with the food and water kept apart from each other. Also in places where he feels safe. And very important, the ability to hunt. I don't expect anyone to bring in live mice. But playtime is extremely important to cats. Sometimes you have to try many different toys to find one they really like. Most cats like the wand toy called "Da Bird". They need a designated play time that is consistent every day at the same time each day and for a decent amount of time. Usually best to do the pay time before offering food.

To encourage drinking the water fountains work well. There is also a veterinary product called Hydrocare that is a packet of tasty liquid that encourages them to drink.

SQ fluids are great but I would only be doing them once a day. Twice a day seems excessive. Always make sure that the fluids from the previous administration have fully absorbed before giving more.

I haven't heard of anyone using urinary acidifiers in a long time. Be careful with that if they don't know what kind of crystals there are. Also if you are giving the urinary diet along with the acidifier, you run the risk of his urine being too acidic and causing a different type of crystal.

I have seen many cats get the PU surgery and still continue to get blocked. I personally don't think it is a great idea, but that's just my opinion.

Has your vet given him anything for pain? This is a painful condition and should be treated as such. Pain leads to stress that leads to more urinary problems and it is a vicious cycle.
If there's anything that I can think of, he always wants to go outside for some reason. He will push the front door, try to escape when the door is open, staring longingly at the window. He's been doing it for years now. When he did escape, he'll roll and play on the front yard happily, sniffing and eating wild grass. No matter how much I "catify" my house, it seems like he's the happiest when he's outside. I don't know if it's just my feeling though.

Both my husband and I have very demanding jobs with long hours and long commuting time, so I must admit that we don't play with our cats as much. We tried our best to play with them whenever we got time. There are plenty of toys, cat tree, scratching surfaces, cupboards and tabletops for them to jump on.

Unfortunately Sachi doesn't like the water fountain for some reason. He won't even go near it. I've looked up hydra care but it seems to be unavailable where I live (Indonesia). Flavoring the water never seems to work in the past, though.

The vet only prescribed some antibiotics and urine acidifiers, no painkillers.
 

silent meowlook

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My concern is that I haven't heard of ash being spoken of for a long time.
Here are a couple of links to information.
 
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Eca

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My concern is that I haven't heard of ash being spoken of for a long time.
Here are a couple of links to information.
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Thank you for the links. I've read all of them carefully. From my understanding, the term "ash" is used to refer to the food's mineral content? So low ash means low mineral? Is 2% mineral content enough to be referred as low mineral?

Sachi's been fed mostly canned wet food ever since he was a kitten, but the problem is he doesn't eat or drink very much that I'm afraid it's not enough to keep his bladder flushed and healthy.
I also really can't think of anything else that stressed him at home.

I'm absolutely confused 😢
 

silent meowlook

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Make sure that you don't have his food and water in the same spot. Also you want to have a litter box per cat plus one. I know it is hard with schedules but try to put aside at least 15 minutes each night before feeding to play with a wand toy with your cat. This is important and there is no automatic toy that will take the place of real play time with you. Believe me I know. I have tried every automatic motion activated toy in the world it seems like.
 

mrsgreenjeens

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Since he has always eaten wet food with some water added, it's not a wonder that he doesn't drink additional water. Normally that is sufficient (wet food with extra water in it) and there is no need for them to drink more. I do the same with my cats and even though I put fresh water out for them, I rarely see them drink. IF you can find any type of urinary food that he likes, especially if it's a dry food, he will probably start drinking water, mainly because eating dry things causes thirst. Not that I'm advocating feeding him dry food, but if he'll eat a little bit, which I believe you stated he would, then that may be your solution. Plus, there are many different varieties of urinary foods, pates, stews, minces, in different proteins like fish and poultry. Have you tried them all? I know it can be expensive trying them all, but it may be worth it to find something that he likes. I would suggest trying all of them, both wet and dry, all brands, and hopefully you can find something that he will eat enough of to maintain his weight. But since he likes the Fancy Feast pates, have you tried mixing that food with any of the prescription foods to see if you can transition him?

I agree with S silent meowlook that trying to look for low ash food is an old way of thinking for Vets. AND, without knowing exactly which kind of crystals he has, you could be working against yourself with the food you feed. It's really magnesium that is the issue, and if it's too low it can cause one type of crystal, too high can cause another. And to make matters even more confusion, there are different types of magnesium which work differently.

Monitoring his PH seems to be your best bet here, and using human test strips is just fine, as long as you are getting a good read. You want to have his PH between 6 and 6.5, so right now, he seems ok. If it starts getting high though, you will need to get something to help it drop.

Also, some people whose cats have this issue use Cornsilk and D-Mannose as supplements. Here is a thread that in post #2 talks about how much to use. Post Urinary Blockage issues and recovery
 

iPappy

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If there's anything that I can think of, he always wants to go outside for some reason. He will push the front door, try to escape when the door is open, staring longingly at the window. He's been doing it for years now. When he did escape, he'll roll and play on the front yard happily, sniffing and eating wild grass. No matter how much I "catify" my house, it seems like he's the happiest when he's outside. I don't know if it's just my feeling though.

Both my husband and I have very demanding jobs with long hours and long commuting time, so I must admit that we don't play with our cats as much. We tried our best to play with them whenever we got time. There are plenty of toys, cat tree, scratching surfaces, cupboards and tabletops for them to jump on.

Unfortunately Sachi doesn't like the water fountain for some reason. He won't even go near it. I've looked up hydra care but it seems to be unavailable where I live (Indonesia). Flavoring the water never seems to work in the past, though.

The vet only prescribed some antibiotics and urine acidifiers, no painkillers.
Hi!
Would it be possible to build a small catio that he could go in and out of during the day? If not, would harness training him so he could go outside on a leash be an option? Harness And Leash Training For Cats - TheCatSite
It sounds like he might be stressed about not being able to be outside, and some cats are like this no matter how great their indoor space is. Was Sachi an outdoor kitten/cat when you adopted him?
 

Lotus75

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Hey Eca,

I had a very similar situation as you--except about 10 years ago. Had a cat who was primarily fed dry cat food (Purina One or Pro Plan, can't recall which, except it came in a plastic 3-4 L jug) from a kitten.

At about 5-ish years old, he got really sick, requiring a vet visit. Blood work, urinalysis, and x-rays resulted in a diagnosis of struvite crystals. Needed surgery to remove them (as there were so many). Vet also pushed a dry Royal Canin (RC) prescription diet with a lower ash content & a higher fibre content, as well as the matching wet food. Also told needed to increase his water intake.

Lesson 1: After/during any surgery for urinary/bowel issues, make sure vet takes TWO x-rays, lateral AND supine views! Ours only did lateral & then closed up. During recovery observation, he wasn't responding so they did a lateral and supine... and discovered his bones were hiding struvite crystals during the lateral that were only seen in the supine--requiring another surgery!! Fortunately, my guy was strong and recovered.

As for the food, my cat wouldn't touch the RC dry crap but was fine eating the $3-4/can (but I wasn't). After a lot of research (based upon what I learned from the vet), I came across some very important info about cat food nutrition requirements, how dry food is made, bad ingredients, and the EXTREMELY high importance of water (cats have a very poor water drive compared to dogs).

Thus I changed the dry food from the RC garbage to (fairly new at the time) 'Now Fresh Senior' dry cat food (it had lower ash and higher fibre, & importantly a tiny kibble because of his 16 missing teeth-- from different surgery), and the expensive RC wet to a basic store brand Co-op/Friskies/Whiskas... basically just an inexpensive WET canned food. I also changed his food bowls to larger diameter bowls (about 6" stainless steel)--under advice from vet who said that cats like big bowls, not smaller ones.

Lesson 2: Research what the vet tells you. Confirm it by understanding it. Understand the diagnosis, & why they make the food recommendations they do. Most (all I've seen so far) vet prescribed/promoted cat foods are overpriced, made in the same factories as regular/low cost cat foods, and contain terrible ingredients--especially the dry cat foods. Stay away from ingredients listed as '... meals' or '... by products'.

At this point, I would have said simply feed any brand/type of wet food as primary diet, and stick to a 'lower ash' & 'higher fiber' dry food as a supplemental 'graze' feeding for when you're not home, but...

Lesson 3: Remember to stay current. As 'silent meowlook' stated
His comment made me think 'Excuse me?!?'... and down the rabbit hole I went again, starting with the two links he suggested (as I thought he was incorrect).

Lesson 5: Water is extremely important! Prior to my guy's diet switch of adding wet food (to increase water intake), I used to see him drink water from his bowl periodically, and even head into the shower once someone got out. Afterwards though, we did notice we rarely saw him drink water. And thus comes a random 'OMG' moment. A dog joined our family, a very, very messy water-drinking/spilling dog. In order to prevent constantly messy & wet floors, it required us to purchase a special bowl for him. It was this purchase that made us realize how much cats dislike their whiskers touching the edges of a bowl while drinking! We again started to see him drink water almost daily again! So if your cat is not drinking much water, I recommend buying a bigger diameter water bowl, at least 9"! Large inexpensive stainless steel ones can be found for as low as $6-7, but if you don't search hard they'll be $14-30.

Sadly, I chose to ease our 15-year-old friend's pain this week, as he deteriorated too fast, and I could not allow his suffering to go any further. Thus the reason for being online was to search for a new dry food, more suited to our other cat.

I hope this helps you, Eca, or anyone for that matter.

ps, Based upon your interactions with the vets you have seen so far, I hope you known there are way better vets out there (because those ones seem lacking... a lot!). Good luck!
 
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downton ali

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My cat sounds like yours. He's had blockages (confirmed that they were struvite crystals). I gave him high quality wet food prior to his blockages (Instinct, Open Farm, Weruva). Now I have to give him prescription food. We won't eat Hills or Royal Canin wet food, but he will eat Purina UR. I buy him the chunks in gravy rather than the pate. He was NEVER much of a water drinker, so the vet told me to always give him wet food. He's terrified of water fountains. I put a little bit of water in his wet food, and he does lick it, however I don't want to dilute the flavor or smell. I also run the cans under very hot water to warm up the food to make it more appealing to him. I feed him dry urinary food as treats. Keep trying different brands, and you may find something he likes!
 

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Sorry, I went through similar with my cat and it was awful. We had a independent pet food store here that had raw turkey/rabbit food in it’s freezer section - it was packaged like ground beef, but had all the other stuff added into it for complete nutrition. By some miracle he ate it. (My efforts at making raw food were a total fail). Anyway, here are some other things I did:

1. Fortiflora for cats sprinkled on top
2. Put treats or dry food in a blender to grind them up and then sprinkle that on the food
3. Feed him out of my hand*
4. Use reconstituted freeze-dried raw food (e.g., Stella and Chewy’s)

I have no idea why he would eat out of my hand, but not eat out of the bowl.
 
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