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Thank you so much for your super informative response! I really appreciate it!Behavioral consultant here!
First of all, let me just say, I wish more people were even a fraction as kind and responsible as you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you, for not only showing a homeless kitty kindness and trying to do your due diligence as pet guardian, but also being willing to take in, take on, and work with a special needs kitty.
It looks like you’ve done your research and received good additional information on -/+ households. Please do not hesitate to come back here at any time if you have any questions about the introduction process (or even if you just need to vent a bit if things aren’t going so smoothly! We understand!).
As far as the aggression, if there is any way to film what is happening (preferably more than one interaction where the behavior in question occurs), video is always the very best way to assess what exactly is going on and how best to try and address it.
In the meantime, can you describe more in depth what is exactly happening?
Have you been able to identify any triggers?
Is it a certain way of petting him? A certain length of time? Is it when you withdraw attention or try to leave?
Does he seem to attack you at a certain place? (on the porch, in the driveway, on the lawn, etc)
Where does he attack on your body? (Hands, arms, feet, legs, anywhere, etc)?
What do his attacks look like? Does he look over excited or startled/timid or confused? Does he hiss, spit, yowl/vocalize, bite, swipe, or grab you?
What typically works for making him stop and calming him down?
In lieu specifics -
Neutering may go a long way to help curb the behavior. It’s possible you would even see it resolve entirely within the few weeks after surgery.
Sometimes cats will also resolve this sort of behavior once their environment changes.
We’ve had many cats who display various types of human-directed aggression when they’re outside, in a crate, or in a small bathroom - but as soon as they’re allowed to run free throughout the home, it seems to resolve, likely because they simultaneously feel safer than being outside, and have more room to “escape” any perceived threats and avoid feeling cornered (unlike in a crate or bathroom).
If the behavior persists, here are some things you can do (and, of course, you can start any of these things now or whenever you’re ready) -
- Catify, catify, catify!
Once you have him inside, provide plenty of places and a variety of options for him to both hide (can be as simple as a cardboard box or plastic storage tote with one or two holes cut on the side/s), and get up off the ground (cat trees, cat shelves, window perches, etc).
Then be sure to offer him plenty of ways and things to “mark” as his own through scent and scratching. This means plenty of blankets, beds, and scratchers (corrugated cardboard scratcher lounges serve multiple purposes and are very good for this sort of thing. Amazon, Target, and Chewy all have a great selection of these at affordable prices).
- Play therapy!
As others have mentioned, and as you seem to be aware, interactive play with wand toys is extremely important!
This will do wonders for building his confidence, deepening his bond with you, and expending any excess energy that right now he may instead be expressing through aggression. Short of any heart issues, aim to get kitty panting and plopping on the ground in exhaustion!
Da Bird is a great toy for cats who enjoy air prey. The Cat Catcher is great for cats who enjoy ground prey. The Cat Charmer is good for cats who enjoy ribbons/strings, and The Cat Dancer by the same company is a great general toy most cats love that is also dirt cheap! (And yes, many cats love all of these!)
(Avoid using a laser pointer, as they can contribute to frustration due to the inability to “catch” it, which we absolutely don’t want for a kitty like this!)
When first starting to play with a shy or skittish cat, or introducing toys to a cat who may have never been played with before, teaser wands like these or even these (slightly more “advanced” version of the former) can be a great place to start. Many cats seem to find them less intimidating than typical string on a wand type toys.
- Positive Reinforcement Training
If at all possible, start sitting with him at every meal.
Once he’s comfortable with this (which may be right away), start very gradually incorporating the type of movements that tend to trigger his aggression little by little while he eats.
For example, if hands are an issue, this is what I typically do -
While kitty is eating, I sit next to him. Once he’s fully distracted by his food, I will lay my hand or fist down on the ground, and slowly move it closer to him and gauge his response.
With some cats, you can immediately blow through this step. They have no problem with you scooting your hand all the way to them.
Other cats, you may have to go inch-by-inch. Get as close as you can until they stop eating/back away/hiss/try to swipe or bite/etc. As soon as you see they are no longer fully distracted by food, stop. Wait (so long as it is safe for you to do so), then slowly pull your hand back to you, never lifting it off the ground.
Once they start eating again, after a few moments, do it again. Don’t go any closer to the cat than you were before. Repeat until you can go to the same distance as before, but without the cat reacting. Praise him, offer an especially delicious treat (PureBites Chicken treats are a great, enticing yet healthy training treat - you might want to get the doggy version, which is the same exact thing but MUCH cheaper, because your other cats are almost guaranteed to love them too!).
Then, either in the same session or at the next time he eats (you will need to gauge whether or not he’s had enough at any given session), do the same exact thing, but go a little closer now.
This is the basic formula for this sort of training. You’re testing and gauging where his current boundary is, repeating the motion over and over, and rewarding him once he’s desensitized to it (which means no reaction to your movements).
Once your hand can be right up next to him without any reaction (which may be immediately or a few days depending on the cat), continue following the same formula - first start with lifting your hand only an inch or so off the ground. Repeat until there is no reaction, then praise and treat.
Next, go a little higher. Then higher and higher until your hand is higher than he is (but not directly above him) or to the height he normally reacts.
Once he’s stopped reacting, treat and praise.
Your next motion will be to bring your hand up to that height, while slowly your way closer toward him (as in straight across), to where your hand is now directly above him.
Then you will work toward lowering your hand down onto him bit-by-bit as if to pet him, until you actually are.
Depending on the cat, you might blow all the way through this in one meal, or it may need to be spread out over many meals for weeks.
If he’s already fine being pet while he eats, then instead apply the same concept to whatever sort of movements do seem to trigger him.
For example, if he becomes territorially aggressive towards your legs/feet when you get up to leave/go inside after sitting with him and giving him attention, then you would do the same things as before, breaking up all the movements bit by bit.
So first, only lean forward as if you are about to get up, but staying firmly planted on the ground, then do the same thing, but with the heel of your foot lifting up > same thing + putting hands on the ground as if to help push yourself up (butt and balls of the feet remaining fully on the ground) > + start lifting yourself up a few inches higher every time until you’re standing stratight up > + lift the heel of your foot as if to take a step but with ball of foot firmly planted on the ground, etc
Again, how quickly this process goes and how small to break up the movements/steps will depend on the individual cat. I’ve given you the tiniest movements based on the most fearful of cats to illustrate what might be needed, but for many cats, you can break it up into much larger movements and fewer steps.
Once he’s tolerating all of these things during meals, start doing the same thing when he’s not eating and clicker train the normal way.
After he performs the desired action (no reaction or no negative reaction to your movements), click, praise, treat. Don’t use a dog clicker for this, they can be too loud for cats. A click of a pen is perfect for clicker training cats.
Doing any type of clicker training in general will typically improve overall behavior, plus it will help strength your bond and build his confidence, and offer valuable mental stimulation!
- Never play with hands and get kitty a kicker!
Do not encourage any sort of play with your hands (or feet!). Any time Zucco does this, stop what you’re doing and withdraw affection/attention. You can even end the interaction entirely and go inside if you have to and try again later.
You can also redirect his attention to a toy. This can be a wand toy, but depending on how the aggression presents, sometimes cats will respond better to a kicker. I personally recommend this green Jackson Galaxy Hunting Instincts kicker and, of course, the immensely popular Yeowww! banana.
Overall, just be patient with him and be consistent. He will get there
And again - thank you for being so responsible and compassionate!
The aggression happens in short bursts, when it happens. His aggression would take place usually on our front porch, but that's the main place he stays. As the days go on though he is letting us pet him more freely and for a second or two extra at a time.
He showed absolutely no aggression to me today. I used slow movements when I walked, which walking/moving too fast around him seems to be a fear trigger for him currently. When he attacks feet, he attacks them looking intimidated and scared.
If he's overstimulated he's prone to swatting, growling, and hissing at us. But we haven't seen him do that in about two days now. He makes very obvious warning signs of overstimulation (tail swishing, pupils dilated, ears bent back) and that's when we back off and leave him alone. Once left alone, he chills out, recuperates, and is ready for more attention in a little bit.
He does nip at our hands if they are in front of his face, or if they dangle down. He looks at them very curiously. At first I don't think he trusted our hands at all. I still believe there is a lot more work to be done with nipping at fingers and hands. The tips you've all given me have been great and I will do my best to implement them!
The toy suggestions are great and I will look into them! I am looking forward to being able to establish a more trusting bond with him through play time. I personally feel things will get a lot easier once he's neutered and in a safe indoor environment.
