Introducing Feral/stray To Two Indoor Cats - Severe Cat Aggression

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Some days, I feel like my wife and I are at our wits end introducing our new stray/feral to our two indoor cats. This process has been going on for over four months and though we have made significant progress, I still feel we have a long way to go. We are open to any suggestions to continue making progress.

Life before the feral/stray
We had two indoor cats, OT and Theodore. OT was my wife’s cat and Theodore was my cat. They were both kittens when we adopted them—OT was rescued from a barn with his littermates and Theodore was a city alley cat who we got from the shelter. After a short period, they integrated well and are now great brothers with a very good relationship. As of now, they have been living together for about five years. In terms of personalities:

OT is a large (about 17 pounds) orange tabby - we like to describe him as our gentle giant. He is extremely sweet and friendly and very easygoing. He is always with me or my wife and purring all the time. He is also the more dominant cat. We had some issues with him in the past with territorial aggression. The problem arose because a cat sitter we were using pulled him out of a hiding spot when she came to visit and he was fearful of people entering our apartment after that. Though he is still a bit nervous when we are away and a cat sitter comes to visit, the issue has largely been resolved through a fair bit of work.

Theodore is a black, American domestic short hair (about 14 pounds) and is introverted and relatively standoffish. He is friendlier and loving with me, though he has warmed up to people considerably over the years. He will oftentimes howl if he doesn't get enough play time or if he isn't allowed to be in the same room with us. When OT developed his territorial aggression, Theodore became very protective of the cat sitters and would intercede when OT was acting out. This not only helped the cat sitters, but it also incidentally helped them develop a more equal relationship (rather than OT acting dominant all the time and Theodore always acting submissive).

While OT is the more dominant personality, the two now peacefully coexist and we will see them curled up with each other from time-to-time. Though they get into spats, it is infrequent and generally will not occur when they all get enough playtime. They never hurt each other or draw blood.

Taking in the feral/stray
We recently introduced a new stray/feral that we rescued about four months ago and it has been a very time-consuming process. We do not know his origin before he came to us, so are unsure whether he was feral or a stray. I believe that he is most likely a feral and my wife thinks he may have been a house cat which was left as a stray at a very young age. The feral/stray's name is Mackerel. When we first began feeding him outside our workplace, we thought he was a kitten because he was so small, though admittedly, nine pounds is only small compared to our two indoor cats who have been fed well since they were kittens.

We think he started coming around to the office because he lost his ability to hunt for food (which we later suspected after taking him to the vet and learning he had two broken canines). The veterinarian informed us that he was probably around three years old. We had him neutered and gave him all of his shots; the vet removed his two broken front canines and a few loose small teeth. After that, Mackerel lived with us in the office (with occasional home visits when he was recovering from surgery) for about four months. During that time, he was completely separate from OT and Theodore, who lived in our house. While at the office, he stayed pretty hidden for the first month or so in an unused bathroom, though he really bonded with my wife and would generally come out to greet her, as he was scared of other people. He is a very food-motivated cat and through a lot of time and treats, he started to warm up to people.

When we first got him, he was incredibly nervous and anxious and would bite/swat at us to let us know we were getting too close. Also, when his environment would change, he would get very anxious and sometimes bite pretty hard. However, after living with us at the office for months, he got used to our presences and became super sweet. If he is only with us or other humans, he is very friendly. Our cat sitter, who has experience working with ferals and strays, says that he is the sweetest cat ever.

Introducing OT/Theodore to Mackerel
After Mackerel was with us for four months, our work situation changed. We ended up moving to a different city and had to figure out how to introduce OT, Theodore, and Mackerel. Given that Mackerel was so incredibly sweet with us, we figured that we would be able to slowly introduce him to the other guys. We followed the typical protocol for introducing a new cat, but ran into some setbacks. We kept Mackerel completely separated from OT and Theodore in different areas of the apartment. Mackerel had his home base in our bathroom and walk-in closet and OT and Theodore had free range of the rest of the apartment. We scent-swapped and conducted feedings on opposite sides of the door. Mackerel was very aggressive and nervous towards the other cats if we tried to push things too quickly. After a few weeks, we also put in place a policy of site swapping after every meal and making sure we alternated nights they slept with us.

Currently, we have settled on the following routine. After waking up, we try to play with each of the cats for 20-30 minutes. This typically involves using a feather toy or some other wand so they can really jump and be active. After this, we prepare them a meal of wet Fromm's cat food (we change the flavor after going through an entire case since they like variety) and also add either a 1/4 cup of goat milk or bone broth from Honest Kitchen. We helped my wife's father take care of his cat who recently passed away from chronic kidney disease and are now very sensitive about making sure the cats get enough liquids. We are able to feed the three cats on a 3'x3' mat that we place on the ground. During feeding, either my wife or I will hold Mackerel in a harness while they eat. During mealtime, all the cats seem mostly interested in food and not so much with the other cats. After the meal is over, we try to sit with all of them for another 10-20 minutes, so that they can spend some calm time together. Typically, OT and Mackerel will blink at each other and OT will come up to Mackerel to smell his nose. While Mackerel will usually reciprocate with blinking, he still gets very nervous when OT gets that close. After mealtime, we site-swap Mackerel with OT and Theodore and they nap for the day. We follow the same routine for dinner. It has taken us a lot of hard work and effort to get to this stage. However, Mackerel still needs to be closely held on a leash, as we do not trust him not to lunge at the other cats. If he is ever left unsupervised near the other cats, he will lunge and attack them.

Problem 1:
OT seems relatively fine with this entire situation. When we site-swap him and Theodore and they are not with us at night, Theodore does not sleep and howls for an hour or two straight. One night, he lost his voice from howling the entire night. We realize that he is unhappy being separated from us and have found that giving him CBD oil before we site-swap will sometimes help him sleep at night.


Problem 2:
When Mackerel is just with me and my wife, he is incredibly sweet. He sleeps on our chests and loves to purr and get tummy rubs. The cat sitter—who knows of his aggression problems—says he is a “lovebug” with her. Now, the only time Mackerel is aggressive is when he is with the other cats and he is vicious. We had about five setbacks during this time. If he gets into contact with OT or Theodore, very serious fighting occurs and we are worried that he will seriously injure the other cats if we do not immediately break up the fight. Over the past four months the following has happened:

Month 1: Mackerel slipped past us and got into the room with OT and Theodore. OT ripped off his toenail and Mackerel lost a bit of fur.
Month 2: Mackerel slipped past us. My courageous wife jumped into the fray and Mackerel latched on to her arm and tore up a chunk of skin. Shortly after this event, Mackerel lunged at the cats and I caught him, but he bit me badly.
Month 3: Mackerel got nervous after being out on a leash with OT and Theodore. We should have ended the session earlier but we did not. When we were taking him back to his spot, he bit my wife’s arm.
Month 4: Mackerel lunged at OT and Theodore. My wife grabbed OT to get him out of the fight and she was able to prevent those two from drawing blood, but Mackerel did wound her arm pretty badly.

Needless to say, we've more or less become experts at dealing with cat bites in humans. We realize that, at the end of the day, Mackerel is nervous and probably still terribly scared of other cats because of his former life as a stray/feral. We are currently at a bit of a loss and are open to any suggestions as to continue the introductions. Currently, we are discussing Prozac for Mackerel to help with the aggression, but are reticent about medicating him. Clearly, if we cannot find a solution, though, we will have to rehome Mackerel with one of our family members. That, however, is not something that we are currently considering.
 

maggiedemi

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The best way I've found is to put up a gate on the door. On ours the bars are crisscrossed, so when they punched each other through the gate, they didn't injure each other. There's no need to jump in between the cats! Just make a loud noise, a horn, a squeaker toy, whistle, or shake pennies in a can. They will separate and know what you mean. No need to get bit or scratched.
 

maggiedemi

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And please wear gloves when handling ferals and point his claws away from you when carrying, don't let him turn his body towards you, that's how I got my hand ripped open.
 
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Thanks maggiedemi. I trim all of their nails about once a week so they aren't very long. Loud noise will not scare him enough to stop the fighting. The issue with him is that he bites down with his teeth and will actually grip on and then shake his head like he is trying to kill prey and will not let go until one of us physically pries him off. He's sunk his teeth into my wife's arm while she is screaming and it takes the two of us to remove him. We're both worried that if they get into a fight he'll do the same to OT or Theodore and really hurt them.

What kind of gate do you have? We were thinking about getting a very tall gate that we could put on one of our doors. We thought that allowing all the cats to see each other on a more regular basis would help with the integration. When we do not have Mackerel out on a leash or during feeding times OT and Theodore cannot see him. They are always separated by a door and as a result, probably only see each other for at most 2 hours each day which is split between meal times and when we want to have a short visual interaction when treats are involved -- my wife or I will have Mackerel in our arms or hold him in a harness.

We originally thought a baby gate would be a good idea to keep them separated and got an extra tall gate from Home Depot. However, Mackerel was able to squeeze through the sides. Mackerel can also jump really high and, despite his size, is incredibly strong. As a result, we have not found a baby gate that we think would work to keep them separated but allow visual contact. Any suggestions on very tall baby gates or some object we can use to block the doorway would be helpful. I've started to take a look at exterior door gates that I might c-clamp to the interior door which can keep them separated.

Subsequently, we tried putting him in a large dog crate so that they could have more visual interactions. However, he tries to get out of the dog cage and we are worried that he might end up breaking a tooth or hurting his paw pretty badly. This wouldn't seem like a normal concern, but once he was trying to "tunnel" underneath one of the doors to get out of the closet and he banged his poor little face so hard into the door that he drew some blood. As a result, the cage doesn't seem like a great option as we want to be in there with him to make sure he doesn't hurt himself.


The best way I've found is to put up a gate on the door. On ours the bars are crisscrossed, so when they punched each other through the gate, they didn't injure each other. There's no need to jump in between the cats! Just make a loud noise, a horn, a squeaker toy, whistle, or shake pennies in a can. They will separate and know what you mean. No need to get bit or scratched.
 

maggiedemi

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My family member made our gate with wood and fencing. Make sure the bars crisscross. That way their paws kind of bounce off if they hit each other. In all the hundreds of times they tried to punch each other, they never got injured. Of course, I can't guarantee it, and make sure they don't scratch each other in the eye. I was going to suggest stacking 2 baby gates, but you said they could squeeze through the side? Are you very handy, could you make a gate? I use a bicycle type horn with my cats. When I honk that thing, they listen.
 
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My family member made our gate with wood and fencing. Make sure the bars crisscross. That way their paws kind of bounce off if they hit each other. In all the hundreds of times they tried to punch each other, they never got injured. Of course, I can't guarantee it, and make sure they don't scratch each other in the eye. I was going to suggest stacking 2 baby gates, but you said they could squeeze through the side? Are you very handy, could you make a gate? I use a bicycle type horn with my cats. When I honk that thing, they listen.
Your original post got me thinking and I'm planning to build a gate. I'll get something like chicken netting or regular fencing, build a wooden frame and then attach it to the door. This will let me keep the cats separate but still get more visual time with each other as they adjust. Thanks for the original suggestion!

I guess my real question now is should we keep trying to push the cats with more visual time or try another route.
 

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I used a cheap wooden screen door from Lowes that was round $20. I attached it with cheap tension rods from Target ($4) and it worked so well. I did have a baby gate in the door jam that added a bit of protection. I used this when I was able to supervise. It worked very well to introduce the feral I brought inside to my resident cat. The attached picture shows the screen door.

I also made a homemade barrier by using wire shelving from Lowes. It comes in 12' sections and you can have them cut it for you into 2 6' pieces or 3, 4' sections and then zip tie together. It has worked very well for me.
Build a free-standing cat / dog / pet gate with virtually no tools
 

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CookieCats

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Ugh, we are at a bit of a loss. The feral got through a crack in the door as we were going to a different room and he decided to lunge and attack our other two. W
 
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I started putting together the screen so that the feral will be able to see the other two cats but haven't had a chance to complete it yet. I'm a bit nervous that additional visual stimulation might make things worse? We are at the point where the feral can eat on the same 3'x3' mat while we have him in a harness but any time there isn't food and he happens to get past us, things get ugly. It seems to happen about once every 2-4 weeks. We try to be as careful as we can, but unfortunately we don't live in a place where we can have an empty room with doors as a buffer.

I know at some point that you need to let the cats work it out, but it still seems like it is too early to even try that yet as we are worried that they might hurt each other.
 

maggiedemi

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Hi. If you're leaving or entering a room and don't want a cat to slip in or out, you could use a horn, whistle, or a squeaker dog toy. I have a toy pig that oinks that gets my cats back from the door. All I can say is that the gate worked for my cats. I'm surprised that they never hurt each other with how much they fought, but their paws seemed to bounce off the squares in the fencing, since it's criss-crossed.
 
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When you started using the gate, were the cats still aggressive towards each other? I think I'm just going to try the gate and see how it goes. Maybe I'll back track from there if things go poorly.
 

maggiedemi

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It wasn't too bad. I think they were playing. They punched each other through the bars every day. They never got hurt at all though. Like I said, the criss-crossing of the fencing looks like little squares and their paws just bounced off it when they smacked each other. They never got cut or scratched. I can't guarantee that yours won't get hurt, but it seems unlikely if you make a similar gate.
 

walli

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Hang in there, give it time, I'm dealing with the same thing.
Your feral is much more friendly then mine, so I have a lot longer to go
than you.
and fyi: careful of the cat bites, don't ever get between cats and don't even try
to handle a cat after a fight, my husband was in the hospital for 4 days on IV antibiotics from a cat fight just a few weeks ago!
$30,000 bill, thankfully he has good insurance.
Our bill is $3000, so still a lot of money
 
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CookieCats

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Hang in there, give it time, I'm dealing with the same thing.
Your feral is much more friendly then mine, so I have a lot longer to go
than you.
and fyi: careful of the cat bites, don't ever get between cats and don't even try
to handle a cat after a fight, my husband was in the hospital for 4 days on IV antibiotics from a cat fight just a few weeks ago!
$30,000 bill, thankfully he has good insurance.
Our bill is $3000, so still a lot of money
My wife is currently nursing a cat bite infection after going to the ER last week :(. No IV but it hasn't fulled healed after the full course of antibiotics so we are scheduled to go back in to the doctor. We never knew that cat bites were such a big deal before taking in our new little feral.
 

walli

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It's the deep bites that are a problem, the ones usually associated
with fights or after the fact.
My husband got bit in a joint that is why it was so bad.
He didn't know you aren't suppose to put your hands near a cat that is in fight mode. Hope she heals ok!
 
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