Awwww - I love grey and white kittes! (Well - I love all kitties. But I've got a soft spot for that soft grey with white - and for black & white kitties).
Also - on that link you posted. If you put [IMG] at the beginning and [/IMG] at the end, the picture itself will turn up in the thread.
Are you sure kitty isn't owned by someone? You may want to call around to local shelters/vets and consider putting up a poster of kitty around the neighborhood, just to make sure.
Quick question - do you have other cats you will be taking with you when you move?
If not, the best thing to do is start putting the food you're feeding kitty into a crate (if you've got one - the bigger the better). Let him/her get used to going inside of something to eat.
Find a have-a-hart trap you can borrow. Is there someone who can feed the cat as you were while you move and get settled in? Because the best time to trap the cat to bring him/her home with you is once you've unpacked and are settled in your new place.
Cats are territorial and any territory move is very stressful. As you're moving in the very near future, I really, really, really would not recommend trapping kitty until you're moved and settled. The move would just further stress out kitty and probably undo any socialization progress made.
Kitty can be socialized inside instead of outside, but it will take time and patience on your part. The older kitty is, the longer socialization will take. If kitty was feral, add more time. If he's stray that's reverted to feral ways - you never know. Either humans were good and he got separated from them somehow - or he was abused, and humans are bad. Or a combo.
Once you're ready to trap kitty, here is a really useful link: http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...threadid=11403
You can also use a box to camoflage the trap.
You can also use kitty litter instead of newspaper - pour it over the bottom of the trap until the wires are just covered. But either of these work only when it's not raining.
Cover the back seat of your car with a large plastic tarp and towels or blankets you're willing to have ruined (of course they can be washed, but just in case...). Kitty will be TERRIFIED, and will like pee or poop (or both). Have a light blanket you can throw over the top of the crate. Make sure you leave one end open for air movement - some cats also get car sick.
Kitty should go directly to the vet. He needs to be examined, probably de-wormed (medication the vet will provide), potentially de-ticked and de-flead, should be vaccinated - and if old enough (anything older than 7 weeks), really should be spayed or neutered.
When kitty is ready to come home (if spayed, may need to spend the night at the vets), you should have your new place ready.
Kitty should be confined to one room at first - the sanctuary room. Any room in the houes - but a small room is better, and one that is relatively quiet is better. There should be at least enough room for kitty's sleeping/hidey box, and for litter pan to be placed somewhere else, and for food and water to be not near the litter box. (A small bathroom really doesn't work well). Kitty should have places (you intentionally create) to hide, and the room should be cat-proofed. Especially as to hiding, cords, cords hanging from things like blinds, and plants. Many plants are toxic to cats but they'll chew on them anyway.
Make sure it has a nite light for night, and can be not totally light during the day. A radio tuned to a classical music station can help. Also, spraying Feliway (or getting the plug-in diffuser) can help.
Kitty may need to learn to use the litter pan. Best thing is to purchase potting soil THAT HAS NO ADDITIVES (like fertilizer - perlite or vermiculite is OK - better without it, but definitely no chemicals). Sprinkle a thin layer over the top of the kitty litter. This will help kitty make the adjustment.
Take a t-shirt or something, get it really sweated up, and put it under kitty's food dish. If you've got more t-shirts you can spare, you can put one in kitty's hidey box. You can also leave treats out for kitty on one. All of this helps kitty come to associate your smell with good things.
Get some toys for kitty. Our ferals always liked the small furry mice that rattle (small beans or peas or something inside of them) the best. All of them. We just discovered a new toy - kitty coils. They're long pieces of coiled plastic. Our cats have gone NUTS for them - they keep rolling when they bat them around, so they make moving targets.
Don't expect kitty to know what play is or what toys are. You may find that he starts to play with them when you're not around. An interactive wand toy will help, but introduce that later, when kitty is more comfortable in the new environment and with you.
The most important thing is to just spend time in the room with kitty doing something that has nothing to do with kitty - unless you're just reading out loud. Kitty doesn't know it's directed at him, it just helps him get used to you. It's really hard to ignore him or her - but it's really important that you do so - a lot. Patience is the key ingredient to successful socializing, and trust is the goal.
Links that may help you:http://www.pets911.com/organizations/organizations.php
Type in your zipcode, and a list should come up. Call around to find a trap to borrow, to ask about low-cost spay/neuter services, &etc.
When you're calling local vets to see if anyone's lost a kitty, you can also ask if they've got a trap you can borrow.
You can also use the links in my signature line to help find lots of other rescue-related resources (including articles on socializing, info about ferals, more links to low-cost spay neuter services, etc.)
Keep us posted!