another declaw question- please help!

Before I start, I just want to say- I know declawing is not looked upon very well by this site. I know why it's wrong and understand. I do not want a lecture on why I shouldn't have my cats declawed because I already know those reasons. I don't want to get them declawed.

My husband and I have 2 kittens that are 16 weeks old. The girls have already been spayed. We are in the process of moving and getting new furnature and my husband is pushing really hard to the girls declawed. I want to avoid it, but without causing a rift with my hubby. Declawing is such the norm around here that even though I've explained why it's wrong, he still doesn't see it as a big deal. We actually talked to two different couples yesterday that were extremely happy they had their cats declawed, which doesn't help my cause. If we were to get them declawed, we need to do it NOW, before they gain more weight. So I'm scrambling to find differnt options.

The major problem right now is not the fact that they're continually scratching the furnature, it's that they climb all over it- and instead of jumping, they'll just claw/climb their way up and down it. My husband is scared this is going to just rip our furnature to shreds. I know this is probrobly just a phase because the girls can't jump as high as they want to.

I ordered soft paws last week for them and applied them last night. They had half of them off within 2 hours. I did have some problems getting the glue that came with them to work, so I maybe didn't use quite enough. While they were on, they didn't seem to mind them at all, which is a huge plus! I liked the idea of useing these, because once we know they're completely scratching post trained, then we can just stop applying them. They don't seem to be particularly bad about using their claws when playing, so this soft paws would be ideal.

So here's a question about the soft paws- Would it be bad if I used another kind of super adhesive instead of the stuff that came with them? If so, what would you suggest?

Any other suggestions to help my cause? I know you can put double stick tape on furnature to prevent scratching, but my husband just doesn't see that as very practicle. ("so we're going to cover the entire couch with double stick tape? where will we sit??") We love our cats, and I know that scratching is what cats do and I can deal with it, but I'm scared I'm going to have to compromise with my husband if nothing else works. I actually had trouble sleeping last night because of this. Suggestions?

Oh, no. You should have your husband look at the pictures of an actual declaw so he can see what it is. It might be stronger than words.

Try a "scat mat" you would put it on the couch when you're at work or out, and the texture of it makes the cats dislike the area. You can also spray bitter apple scent on the couch, which will deter them. There are alarms you can buy that detect motion near the couch and then make a big noise which makes the cats run away. If you do this consistently while you're out, it won't matter if you are in or not, they won't run across the couch. If you are in the room, you can deter them yourselves. Focus on keeping the cats off the couch in general rather than preventing them from scratching it.

Soft claws usually come off pretty fast the first time. Keep reapplying them and once the cats get used to them then they'll last longer. I know some people have used super glue, I'm not sure which brand and then you'd have to supervise them until it was totally dry. The good thing about the glue they come with is that it is non-toxic.

Tell your husband that declawing them MAY (it is statistically proven by surrenders to shelters) cause litterbox problems, so you take the chance of having a house full of cat pee instead of a few scratches on the couch.

Or you could buy some slipcovers for the couch and replace them every so often when they get scratched, as you train them to use their scratching posts. There are lots of threads on using a post, so do a search for that.

Good luck. I hope you can save your cats.

I use artificial nail glue.

And you have to use enough to have no air bubbles.
Apply each cap, and hold it firmly in place for 10-20 seconds before releasing the cat.

Do a search for a product called CatAround.

No, don't use Super Glue.

Why not put throws on your furniture until the cats are used to using scratching posts? You can take them off when company comes.

Make sure their nails are trimmed regularly -- that helps prevent the normal wear and tear from just being on the furniture.

And as a last resort, put this question to your husband: which does he love more, you and the cats, which are living breathing creatures that can appreciate his love and return it, or his furniture, which only sits there?

Maybe you should communicate better with him how much distress this issue is causing you. If he understood, I don't think he'd really want to, just for furniture.

What's wrong with super glue? They closed wounds with it in the Vietnam War, and so have I. And it goes inside the cap, on dead tissue (the claw) so none will be licked off and none will be absorbed. They'll still shed it off in the same amount of time. I really don't see anything wrong with it, and have found several references to people using it themselves for Softclaws with a forum search.

Anyway. I hope you can convince your husband to do the best by the kitties. Also, since you haven't gotten the new furniture yet, why not consider a fabric that does well with pets. Chenille-type upholstery, which is very very common on couches, hardly shows anything. My sister bought some new about 4 or five years ago, she has two and never trims their claws, and has one that has a bad case of "sticky kitty" and they both go racing across it regularly, but you could never tell it by looking at them.

Honestly, I would give my cat up rather than declaw him. I have such strong opinions against it I couldnâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t live with myself if I did it.

I know this doesnâ€[emoji]8482[/emoji]t help you but hopefully you can follow the advice that has already been given find a solution that you can live with.

Originally Posted by Zissou'sMom

What's wrong with super glue? They closed wounds with it in the Vietnam War, and so have I. And it goes inside the cap, on dead tissue (the claw) so none will be licked off and none will be absorbed.

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It says on the precautions to not get any on skin. If you've used it that way, you've used it contrary to instructions. And if you can glue nail caps without getting any on either your fingers or on any part of the cat other than the nail, then you have a whole lot more dexterity than me.

Or else we're not talking about the same thing.

Neither of my cats have scratched the furniture since they grew big enough to jump rather than claw their way up. (Ironic as we have never stopped them, we figured the sofas are beat up anyway and we have changeable covers!).

I know other members might argue with my theory BUT.. I have found that once your cat realises you dont want them to do something, they generally stop doing it after a while. They of course make it look like it was their idea to stop!

Try hissing, or saying 'NO' firmly when you see them scratching the furniture and then moving them onto something they can scratch. (this might not work for the climbing so it might be best to ban them from the sofas all together).

Would your husband be opposed to adding more cat furniture. Whilst I am not suggesting you kit out your house like this, this website provides load of inspiration for a cat friendly house! http://www.thecatshouse.com/

The fact of the matter is, most people intertwine a sense of bias into their very opinionated statements regarding declawing. The majority of the studies used to back their anti-declaw agenda revolve around small group analysis that do not even take into consideration a plethora of other causes which may ill effect the outcome.

One such study, a commonly cited reference for anti-declaw, was done with a whooping 38 cats by the University of Pennsylvania. This study somehow concluded that bad behavioral issues arise after the declawing. Yet, they fail to consider current emotional state, type of surgery and experience of the surgeon, median age, anesthesia used, postoperative pain management, etc.. Nice, study?

Another study done by WSU which is cited frequently as:

“One hundred sixty-three cats underwent onychectomy..... Fifty percent of the cats had one or more complications immediately after surgery. Early postoperative complications included pain..., hemorrhage...., lameness...., swelling...., or non-weight-bearing..... Follow-up was available in 121 cats; 19.8% developed complications after release.
Late postoperative complications included infection...., regrowth...., P2 protrusion...., palmagrade stance...., and prolonged, intermittent lameness...”

Early postoperative includes pain? Swelling? Ever get your tonsils taken out? It hurts afterwards! 2 weeks! This statement is the equivalent of someone surgically removing his/her foot and complaining that they cannot walk and it is painful the day after. Now, as for the late postoperative problems, they, again, fail to mention the wealth of circumstances mentioned previously that can influence the situation. Please, feel free to assume these declaws were done by inexperienced students to gain experience, makes sense doesn’t it? Bad surgeon, bad effects. I wouldn’t want a tooth pulled out by a first year dental resident, would you? The nerves in the mandible are very sensitive, yikes!

Anyways, here are some arguments:

Common arguments include it is painful. Yes, it like ANY other surgery is painful.

They lose balance. No, take a careful look at the biomechanical structure and movement of a cat. A cat’s claws and distal phalanx plays a minuscule role in the balance of a cat. Unless, of course, the cat had no balance to begin with and required claws to grasp hold of the object to remain on the object. Then yes, in those situations they will become a factor.

Behavioral change? I had 2 playful kittens with claws, and I gave said kittens to a RELIABLE (note: emphasis) vet and received 2 doped up irritated kittens a day later. They do not keep them overnight so that you do not hear them scream; it is to keep them in a controlled environment, because most pet owners would ask too much of them, too soon. They shook their paws; but, this was not due to pain, they both had fentanyl patches and were doped up in kitty euphoria – one couldn’t get enough of rolling over and purring and playing. Instead, the glue used to seal the surgical sites felt awkward – have you ever gotten superglue on your fingers? Hmm. A week later, the fentanyl lasts a week, I had 2 declawed playful happy kittens.

Your cat an outdoor cat? Do not get them declawed and you will not have to worry about them defending themselves. By the way, they do most of their damage with their hind claws.

Oh, and do not be offended when a vet asks if you would like to declaw when you neuter or spay. They are inquiring so that you do not put the cat through the stressful situation of being at a vets and surgery twice. It is not a bad question.

Surgery can be done with pliers, which is unacceptable and cruel. Many sites show this procedure being done. The pliers method increases the likelihood of post-operative complications – studies? However, they fail to shed light on the more appropriate methods or place a negative spin on them if they do. Consult your vet about how they perform the surgery.

The more appropriate ways are surgical (scalpel/bard parker method) and laser removal.

Look at the pictures? Most people do not know how to interpret surgical pictures, they see blood. Blood equals pain. Yes, I have seen pictures depicting several unacceptable methods of declawing and I agree, quite cruel.
After surgery, watch and take care of your cat. They will want to do things they should not be doing; do not let them do them and you will be okay. Just follow the post-operative instructions, love your cat more every day and all will be well.

My wife is yelling at me to go to sleep, so I will leave with this. If you have an entirely indoor cat and wish to removed his/her claws, do not be disinclined by the fear mongering you see on the web – it surely outnumbers the facts unfortunately. Be educated by facts not biased, PETA endorsed hogwash.

Maybe this will help you.

I've only had a problem with one cat of mine scratching furniture and that was years ago. What I've done since then is make them scratching areas.

My two cats love to scratch cardboard boxes, so I have a number of them collapsed flat and stacked sideways behind my bookshelf and leave about 6 inches of them poking out from the side.

I sprinkled catnip on the boxes and rubbed it up and down along the corregated edges and then took each of them to the boxes and walked them through what they should be doing (IE: took their front legs and stood them up and moved their paws up and down along the box edges).

Once one end is shredded up, turn them around so that the other end is visible. Once that end is shredded, replace the boxes with new ones.

I learned this cardboard box thing from one of my cats. I had moved and was waiting for a storage room to come available so I flattened out my cardboard boxes and tied them up and leaned them against a wall. I saw one of my cats going there to scratch it and it gave me the idea to use that method for my other cats. And it's worked great.

I've had my furniture for 10 years and there isn't a single pulled thread and that is even after taking in Abby at 4 months old. She tried to scratch the furniture, but I showed her the boxes and she saw Chynna using the boxes and now she uses them to scratch too.

Another good option is to bring in an old tree trunk with bark on it. Make sure it's wide and heavy enough so they can't pull it down. You can mount it on a large square board if that helps. Also make sure it's tall enough that the cat can stand and stretch. For some reason cats love to scratch wood, and bark will last a very long time.

Also, you can buy pet steps that you can put beside furniture to assist the pet in getting up onto things so that they don't have to climb or jump. They're great for kittens and older cats who aren't as agile. My oldest kitty is 14 1/2 years old and I see that she's looking for easier and lower ways to get onto furniture these days.

Also, clip their nails as short as you can without cutting into the quick/cuticle. If you are afraid to do that, take them to the Vet once a week or every 2 weeks and have them cut the nails for you. They can't do much damage if their nails are short and blunt.

As for your husband, I do suggest showing him what a declaw looks like. It's equal to having lopped off your own finger at the first joint.

http://declaw.lisaviolet.com/

The images are rather graphic.

If that doesn't convince him tell him the story of my Sister-in-Law's cat. She had one of her cats declawed because she too was concerned about her furniture. She didn't think about the needs of the cat or the necessity of their claws, just her furniture.

One day the cat got outside and managed to find it's way under a fence into the neighbours yard. They had a big dog that was very aggressive. The dog literally tore apart her cat She said the cat was nearly decapitated

Had the cat had claws he would have been able to scratch the dog and defend itself in order to get away. He might have been able to climb a tree or the fence. But because he no longer had his claws he couldn't do any of that and he was helpless. I can't even imagine that poor cats terror in the end. My heart breaks and I cry just thinking about it

Super Glue is fine- it is used to close wounds in surgeries every day. The "don't get it on your skin" caution is so you don't glue your fingers together, not because it is in any way harmful, because it is not. Super glue was invented by surgeons- household use is a marketing afterthought.

LunaLou- I saw no specific mention of what types of appropriate scratching posts you have provided for your cats?

I would certainly give them plenty of choices- I have one wall mounted sisal scratching zone, three large cat trees with sisal posts, and a couple of cardboard scratchers. I have never once even seen one of my cats attempt to scratch furniture. They leap on and off and play like the dickens, but I keep their nails trimmed short so they can't hurt anything.

Cats are climbing creatures who want and need to get up on things, so why not make the tallest thing in the room something that is specifically there for your cats? They will gravitate towards it in preference to lower things like furniture. Provide them with appropriate scratching places, and train them to use them. Keep their claws trimmed short, and let them be cats.

You must give the kittens an alternative to the furniture or they will continue to claw it. Get a cat tree that is taller than the furniture to attract them - they like to be in high places. Redirect them to the tree when they go after the furniture. Cats are smart and will figure it out as long as you are consistent and persistent with teaching them.

If hubby baulks on the price, look at the cat tree as just another piece of furniture. If you bought new furniture for yourself, why not buy a piece of furniture for the cats? Redirect the money you would use for the declaw to a nice cat tree and place it in the room with the new furniture.

I hope you can talk sense into your husband!!

Originally Posted by Kuuyku

Be educated by facts not biased, PETA endorsed hogwash.

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You are new to the site, so I imagine that you have not had a chance to read many posts and get a feel for the posters.

You won't find many people here that aren't educated about cats - after all, it's TCS's main mission. Personal passion does not equate with a lack of education or a misunderstanding of the facts.

And the fact that an organisation that some of us (myself included) are not entirely sympathetic with - like PETA - share a certain point of view is not an indication that we should change it.

In future, perhaps you would do well to read more widely on this site (and other sites you choose to visit) before jumping in and taking a frankly insulting tone three posts into your membership.

What you need to do is to explain the truth about declawing - there are many articles on the net you could print out. Point out the fact that declawing is not just taking off the claw but the fact that the toe is being amputated....like taking off the first joint of your fingers. Show him what really is involved.

And also point out that many declawed cats start having litter pan issues and start peeing on rugs, clothes, etc. and not wanting to use the litter pan anymore cause its too uncomfortable missing part of their toes.

And point out the without the claws, many will resort to being overly scared of people/things or become more aggressive and start biting out of fear.

You can be positive and get a good sturdy scratching post/tree that the cats will use. Kittens (till they are bigger) tend to climb up the sofa as they can't jump that high. Once they are bigger, they will jump on the sofa/chair and not claw it. Also you can get some corragated cardboard that has catnip in it - mine love those things and they are cheap

Use consistantency with the kittens. Everytime they start to claw the sofa, stop them by clapping your hands, telling them no in a loud voice, etc. And if you have the cat tree house post, you can put them on there.

Maybe your husband reading the truth about declawing will convience him its NOT the thing to do.

To throw my two cents into the ring about declawing, I would never do it. Cat's use scratching as a form of communication, they are marking their territory by scratching your couch, it's not like they are being destructive just because they can. You can teach a cat to use a scratching post. It takes a little time and effort, but it is totally possible.
If you do get your cat declawed it is possible you are opening the door for a host of other problems. Cats that are declawed have been known to have litter box issues. So lets walk through that scenario, you have a cat that won't scratch, buy now it pees out side the litter box. You've made your problem worse.

Now here's a solution to your problem. You may want to buy a big cat tree that they can climb up and down. Other posters have commented on Bitter Apple. I'd go buy a gallon jug of it. Keep with the soft paws, you just have to keep applying them. Also, now is the time to start cliping their nails.

Oh my god. I've been against de-clawing since I was 5 years old.. yes, seriously, 5. That was when I got my first cat Wendy - who is now 17! this was back in the late 80's when people weren't very educated about de-clawing but I remember my father saying "Never get her de-clawed.. I don't believe in that" and since, I have been against, though as a I got older, I obviously became more educated.. but I had NEVER seen pictures of it til now.. I almost cried. and I read those horror stories, the one about Stanley made me almost break out in tears.

To anyone thinking about doing this: PLEASE reconsider. That's the best anyone can say, reconsider. Read up and learn.

For the OP:

I have two females who are not declawed. One is very good with furniture, the other is quite bad and requires constant reprimanding. Here are some suggestions:

* Start softpaws early. Sounds like you're already doing this.
* Sticky tape does work, and you won't need it on your furniture permanently. It's a training mechanism. Cats won't be enticed to scratch furniture that's sticky. You don't need it on the seats (unless the cats are actually scratching there). If they're just jumping on the furniture with claws out, don't worry, they outgrow that. I just use sticky tape on the corners of couches (my kitties favorite scratching place). Once they are adjusted to a post, you can remove the tape. You may need to retrain every few years.
* If your cats are into catnip, a little catnip on approved scratching places helps tremendously.

Finally, I have one declawed cat. It's awful. He's the most clumsy cat in the world. He has trouble jumping even a few feet, and when he does he usually runs into things. He has to be inside permanently since he can't defend himself. He also meows when he jumps off the bed; the vet says he's in no pain right now, but he's still anticipates the pain from after the declaw procedure. From what we know about his history, he was declawed a year ago.

I apologize, but people almost demonize declawing. They see pictures and think, OH MY GOD!! If you see any pictures after a surgery, that will be the case. Maybe I look at a picture and analyze it fully before generally casting judgement on the whole process. Perhaps its my background in oral surgery. If I took a picture of a patient's mouth and posted it during or directly after surgery, you would believe me to be butcher of the likes.

A lot of the sites provide information based on very unsubstantial studies, so I fail to see the horror. I've had 4 extremely, smart, bright and loving cats throughout my childhood, all declawed. Never once, did any of these behaivoral issues or anything else apply to them. One lived to 21 years of age. If a chronic issue due to a declaw had been the case as it seems so widely accept that it will happen; she would have never lived that long.

I am not saying, get your cat declawed just to get it done - that is ridiculess. However, if you come to a point where it is going to happen, please find a reputable vet to do it. Otherwise, you might have complications due to a bad vet - not the declaw process. The truth is, a cheap vet is the one who should be vilified, not the whole process of declawing. Some vets will cut costs and not even use pain management; thus, the pliers method as well. Go for laser or dearticulation of the phalanx. Keep in mind

If you wind up not being able to talk to your husband, it is okay. You will still have your loving cat after the surgery. Follow the vets (find a good one!) postop directions and love the cat more.

Take the time to views sites from both the anti-declaw and pro-declaw (minority) website and most importantly, your vet. For more information, look at this "politically incorrect" site, http://www.geocities.com/declawing/

I used a product called "Cat Away" and just sprayed it on the areas of the sofa where I saw Pixel trying to scratch.

It stopped immediately.

Put catnip on the scratching posts, and anything else that you want your cat to use as a post. Every time you catch them scratching something else, carry her over to the post and put her paws on the scratching post.

This is what I did and it worked but I have no idea if carrying Pixel to the post and putting her paws on it was understandable to her or not but she seemed to like the attention and always looks around for me before using her scrathing post to this day. "See mommy, I'm a good girl!"

Honestly, Kuuyku, every vet I've ever talked to believed that declawing was a bad thing to do, and should be done only if the person is going to surrender the cat or put it to sleep unless it's declawed. Of course, there are some who don't think like this, but you said to find a good vet, not just any vet.
The people who actually perform the operation consider it to be a second-worst scenario. That is enough for me.
I doubt that you believe that dental surgery is cruel, right? And I've never heard a vet say anything about spay/neuter, and a spay is probably bloodier.

This site is very heavily against declawing, as our rules state themselves, and you are not going to make anyone think declawing is okay who doesn't already. We all have first and foremost the happiness and welfare of the cat in mind, in some cases over that of the owner. All reasons to declaw are for the happiness of the owner. If you look at it that way, you can see why we mostly feel the way we do.

Also, this person does not want to declaw her cat and has asked for advice on how to help convince her husband. You're not really helping her.