Good breeders/Bad Breeders how do you know?

I came to the experts for help with this for an article I am currently researching.

What are the tip offs that someone who doesn't know that much about cats can use when they are determining which breeder to purchase a kitten from?

What are the signs of a good breeder? What are the signs of a bad one?

One of the most telling criteria in my experience is how well the breeder checks out you. They should be asking you as many questions as you are asking them- they should want to know what other pets you have owned and what happened to them, what pets you currently own, ask for a veterinary referral, ask about how you will be housing the cat, what your thoughts are on feeding- a whole host of things. Presumably they have dedicated a huge chunk of time, emotional energy, and money producing their kittens, and they should care about where they are going and who gets them.

They should be very forthcoming about genetic diseases, and be able to tell you about the ancestry of your cat. If they do not want you to see their other cats or where they are housed, that is a red flag as well. They should be able to answer most any question you pose them, and while their time is not unlimited they should never pressure you to "go ahead and take it" or make you feel rushed. They should know which kittens are outgoing, which are quiet, and try to match kittens to appropriate home situations.
The kittens should be clean with bright clear eyes, and should feel confortable being handled. They should not fight being held nor run for cover. It is not unreasonable for a breeder to ask you to wash your hands before handling a kitten- I would welcome that, personally. Heck- I'd even ask you to gown up.

There are lots of other things to look for I'm sure- this is just what came easily to mind.

Kittens are not like puppies, so any breeder trying to sell kittens younger than 10 weeks, is in my opinion, one to stay away from. I'd prefer to see a breeder waiting until kits are 12 weeks, 10 would be the youngest.

There should be a contract - this protects both the breeder and the buyer, and it should be one specifiying that the kitten must be seen by it's new owners vet within 48-72 hours of possession. Full copies of the kittens vet records (shot history, any worming meds given), and blue slip(s) for the association(s) the kitten's litter is registered with should be given at the time of picking up the kitten. Do NOT accept a "we'll mail you the blue slip(s)". It is just asking for aggravation, and it is easier if you know up front that the breeder is organized and has this paperwork available for you.

IMHO, you should know that the parents of the kitten have been tested negative for felv/fiv, and depending on the age of the kit (I believe testing prior to 12 weeks can give you a false negative result, and it is best if they are at least 12 weeks before doing a fiv/felv test - current thinking may have changed on this, so this I would double check what the current recommendations are).

The breeder should want a vet reference, and ask you detailed questions about where you live (apartment, home), what other pets you have, what happened to your last pets, if you have any children and if so, what ages, if you plan to let the kitten outdoors eventually, and should have a no declaw clause, AND a clause saying the kitten/cat will be taken back OR rehomed by the breeder, if the owner should ever, at any age of the cat, need to place it.

If you do not get the feeling that the breeder truly loves the kittens they are selling, and cares where they end up, how they will be cared for, run the other way.

Originally Posted by Pat & Alix

... blue slip(s) for the association(s) the kitten's litter is registered with should be given at the time of picking up the kitten. Do NOT accept a "we'll mail you the blue slip(s)". It is just asking for aggravation, and it is easier if you know up front that the breeder is organized and has this paperwork available for you.

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For those of us to whom pediatric spay/neuter is not currently available, withholding the blue slip until certification of the spay/neuter procedure being completed is one of only a few ways we can even hope to motivate our buyers to be responsible. Even then, it isn't much of a guarantee they will be responsible since most people do not seem to care about the registration docs.

If one is purchasing a cat destined to participate in an ethical breeding program, then yes, the blue slip marked with the breeder's pin number denoting that the cat will be used for breeding should accompany the kitten. But if the kitten is being placed as a pet only and must leave the cattery before being altered, then mailing the blue slip when written certification of the spay/neuter is received by the breeder is perfectly acceptable, IMO.

Originally Posted by gayef

For those of us to whom pediatric spay/neuter is not currently available, withholding the blue slip until certification of the spay/neuter procedure being completed is one of only a few ways we can even hope to motivate our buyers to be responsible. Even then, it isn't much of a guarantee they will be responsible since most people do not seem to care about the registration docs.

If one is purchasing a cat destined to participate in an ethical breeding program, then yes, the blue slip marked with the breeder's pin number denoting that the cat will be used for breeding should accompany the kitten. But if the kitten is being placed as a pet only and must leave the cattery before being altered, then mailing the blue slip when written certification of the spay/neuter is received by the breeder is perfectly acceptable, IMO.

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Sorry..it's true, I did spay/neuter my pet kits during my last years of breeding, and didn't think about those who do not have the option. Then I agree, withholding the blue slip is sensible.

So, Hissy, maybe mention it both ways, IF the kitten is coming from a cattery that does early spay/neuter OR if we are talking a young adult that oen would expect is already fixed, the blue slip should be available, and mention the tool of using withholding the blue slip until proof of spay/neuter as another possibility, explain that not all vets do early s/n so it may not be an option.

I brought it up in part because of seeing how some breeders would be disorganized, or dishonest, never providing papers or blue slips, and buyers should be sure they understand why they might not receive the blue slip at time of purchase...it makes sense for the reason Gayef gave, but not, imho, if the kit is already spayed or neutered.

I also wanted to add, and this I won't waver from..if the breeder is not breeding to a show standard, does not show OR at the least place show quality kits from it's breeding program so that some of the cats produced are being actively shown, if they are not breeding to improve the breed, I would not buy from them.

Yes, I agree with Gaye, if pediatric spay and neuter isn't available, then withholding the blue slip is appropriate. There was a time I thought of breeding dogs, only a very few number of vets will early alter, as with dogs pediatric altering is even more rare, and there were no vets in Oklahoma that I found. I had thought of an idea of charging a alter fee of $100-$200 that was placed in a special account, that was returned after proof of altering. I thought it may give owners more of a push to get it done in a timely manner, as well as the owner may be more willing to listen and understand the seriousness benefits of spaying and neutering their pet. I never did breed dogs, so never did implement that plan, but it may be something that would work.
I agree with what has been said so far, I do believe keeping kittens until 12 weeks of age is important, as is educating pet owners regarding pediatric altering, other alternatives to declawing, (our contract states, no declawing, or it voids our 4 year warranty. I think for breeds that are more affected by HCM or PKD, breeding cats should be scanned on a schedule, as well as the felv/fiv testing.
A big part of breeding is asking many questions, as these babies are our responsibility, so making sure that they are going to good, stable homes is important.
I also believe that a good breeder also helps with rescue, if we can breed the breed, we should also help with either your breeds rescue, or other rescue organization.
I think a contract clause, stating that for any reason the kitten or cat has to be rehomed, I have the option of getting the kitten/cat back.
Signs of a bad cattery:
In my experience of visiting catteries, these are the things that make me cringe, and make me run.
Too many cats and kittens. Which in turn, usually means some form of illness is going on in the cattery.
Small cages is another reason I would run. I do believe that confining males and young kittens is required, but not in small cages.
How often are they breeding their queen? If breeding is frequent, it is a bad sign. However, some queens do need to be bred more often than others.

Hissy, I wish you well on your article. The more people who are educated about good and bad breeders, the better.

I appreciate all the information and the thoughts. It has helped a great deal-

Something I have seen on some websites of signs to look for of a bad breeder is someone breeding more than one breed. I am curious as to how you feel about this. I feel it takes a lot of time to get to know one breed, learn type, and get your cattery going well, but I do believe there has to be some good breeders that have bred long enough that are producing type and know their lines to devote attention to another breed.
Any thoughts?
Stormi

Looks like its pretty much been covered here from everyone i havent fully read all the posts but mostly read them. For me a read flag of a bad breeder is also when the cats run away and STAY hidden if you go and visit. to me thats not very socialized. And I only want my babies coming from a socialized enviroment. Its one thing if they hide at first (some of my babies do) but after you have sat for a while they should come out. Especially curious kittens

Otherwise i think everyone covered it pretty well. Contracts, Questions, screenings. And Its also preferable if they give you a little kitten kit, IMO with at least a days supply of the food they are feeding.