We have at sort of an open door policy for when we rehome cats. We also spay and neuter before they go to their home. It is easier on the kittens, smaller incision, and they are up playing the same day. It also gives the families one less thing to worry about.
If not, you might charge a little extra and give the person the money back or a portion when they show you proof of spay and neuter.
Ask the family about the present or past kittens, and if they had them spay, neutered, and declawed. Usually a person will open up immediately and tell you whether they have done these things.
I can send you links of rescue contracts or pet contracts that you may use, and you also could probably find a questionaire that you could have the family answer through email or on printed paper. If you have a bad feeling about the person, you can always tell them, that you will let them know, because you have had a lot of interest in the kittens.
I have turned many people away when declawing was mentioned, or if they had left a pet intact. I have also turned people away who want the personality they feel is perfect, such as someone called about a kitten, and they wanted one that was trained not to jump or climb, because he hated it, and he doesn't like when they crawl on him. I politely told them, that most if not all cats will exhibit one or all of these behaviors, and he probably would be happy with a cat.
It is amazing some of the calls you may get about your cats, there are all kinds out there. I always try to find someone who wants to stay in touch and has a way of sending pictures and updates. There is nothing better to see your babies happy and spoiled years down the road.
I send home a kitten care package, a brochure gives advice about changing food or litter, confining the kitten for the first 2 weeks away from pets, how to introduce your kitten to other cats or dogs, along with our phone number and email address if they have any questions, as well as our vets name and number in case they have any questions for him. I also give food that our kittens eat, both kibble and canned, along with a scratching post with Mom and littermates scent on it. I buy one for each kitten of the litter, and place them everywhere the kittens can use it, and each family takes one home. We also send home a blanket, also with Mom and littermates scent.
You will also need to ask your vet to write in the dates that the new families will have to get the next set of shots, and what shots are not recommended. It is a personal choice, but myself, including many breeders refuse to give the FIP or Felv vaccine, and we have a contract for the families to sign stating that they will NOT give the vaccine at any time.
11 weeks will be a good time to start allowing them to go to their homes. I have had one kitten have to wait to around 13 weeks, as she was a little slow wanting to eat the dry kibble. She was spoiled to the canned food only, and still wanted to hunt Momma down to nurse. We let her take her time, and switched onto the dry kibble, with the canned only as a treat. I think we did the right thing by keeping her an extra week or two, to make sure she was mature enough for her home.
It is hard to find the right homes, but usually you will just get a feeling about someone, and know that either they are right for your baby or not.
Good luck and keep us posted. I love hearing what families name their babies!!