Yesterday I took home a cat from my local animal shelter to foster.she had been at the shelter for 13 months with little socialization from the staff. After reading a lot of info. Online I thought I would be prepared for the first 24 hours, but I finally checked on her and she hasn't eaten or used the bathroom. She hasn't left her kennel that I'm aware of an won't make eye contact. This behavior is different from what I read online. I guess I expected something from her by now?
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Fostering a semi-feral cat
- Thread starter tmatchett
- Start Date
Hello tmatchett, welcome to TCS 
Thank you for taking time to foster this kitty. As she has been at your home only for a day, it takes time for her to get use to the surrounding environment and also to you and the rest of the household.
You'll need lots of patience and time and love to win her confidence.
Maybe you tell us what is the difference you found that is not what you have read in her behavior and see if anyone of us here can try to help you?
Thank you for taking time to foster this kitty. As she has been at your home only for a day, it takes time for her to get use to the surrounding environment and also to you and the rest of the household.
You'll need lots of patience and time and love to win her confidence.
Maybe you tell us what is the difference you found that is not what you have read in her behavior and see if anyone of us here can try to help you?
It actually doesn't sound too shocking for a cat who is unused to humans and in a new environment. I wouldn't be surprised if she has munched some when you were out of the room and left the kennel when you aren't around. The lack of eye contact is extremely common with cats unused to human contact. Add on that I bet she has been living in a small kennel at the shelter for some time so she likely doesn't feel comfortable leaving the kennel when people are around.
In your place, I think I would start spending time reading, playing on the computer, doing yoga, something quiet in the room with her kennel so she gets used to your presence. Is the kennel open or closed? Personally I would keep it closed for the time being until she is comfortable enough to move around when you are in the room. Because it would be difficult to get her out if she hides somewhere and if she is used to the kennel size it probably will help with comfort.
Where you go from there kinda depends on her and your situation. I would agree with TabbyTom on what is different from what you were expecting? I have experience with socializing a 4 month old feral so it is slightly different than an adult with more ingrained habits but I may be able to offer some suggestions.
In your place, I think I would start spending time reading, playing on the computer, doing yoga, something quiet in the room with her kennel so she gets used to your presence. Is the kennel open or closed? Personally I would keep it closed for the time being until she is comfortable enough to move around when you are in the room. Because it would be difficult to get her out if she hides somewhere and if she is used to the kennel size it probably will help with comfort.
Where you go from there kinda depends on her and your situation. I would agree with TabbyTom on what is different from what you were expecting? I have experience with socializing a 4 month old feral so it is slightly different than an adult with more ingrained habits but I may be able to offer some suggestions.
It is not uncommon at all when a cat is moved from one place to another for it not to eat, drink or use the litter box for over 24 hours. To entice the cat to eat, I would suggest getting a can of tuna in water. Strain out the water and leave the tuna water out in one bowl. In another bowl, mash up some of the tuna and heat it just a bit so that it is warm. Then offer it with the tuna water. Hopefully over night the cat will eat it.
Here are some tips for socializing this kitty:
1. No direct eye contact. Feral cats find this very threatening. Keep your gaze over the top of their head or look down.
2. Talk softly. You want them to get used to your voice. Carry on a conversation or even read aloud from a book or magazine.
3. Sit on the ground so you are not looming over the cat. You also want to keep your movements slow.
4. Food rewards are the way to a ferals heart. Find a special yummy treat such as plain cooked chicken or turkey, salmon, tuna or sardines. I would start by giving them a very small plate with some of the special treat. I would then have small pieces beside me and begin to toss the treat towards the cat. Each toss I would get the treat a little closer to me. I would do this activity each day. After a few weeks, the cats are often getting quite close as long as you keep your movements slow and gaze down.
A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food. Cats love the chicken or turkey. The jar is very small with a blue label. The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices. I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I offered it on a spoon. When working with young ferals or kittens, they can often be coaxed to lick this off your fingers. Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.
5. Remember that when working with ferals it is often 1 step forward and 2 steps back. Just take it slow and steady. Also celebrate the small advancements. I remember the day that Shadow first meowed to me. He had been with me for 3 months. I cried tears of joy that morning!
6. Jackson Galaxy of Animal Planets, “My Cat From Hell” series is the cat guru. He has a line of flower essences that are specially designed for cat behaviors. He even has one for feral cats. I have used this essence with great success on all of my feral cats. Here is a link.
7. When I first began working with feral cats I searched the internet for ideas. I really wanted to see a video. I stumbled across this 3 part video series from the Urban Cat League of New York. The videos show the rescue and socialization of feral kittens. Even though I have never rescued feral kittens, many of the techniques can be applied to older feral cats too. Check out the videos here.
8. You will need a room that is designated just for this kitty. If possible this should be a room where the cat will be confined for a period of time. You can use a spare bedroom or even a small bathroom. If using a bedroom or other room of your home, be sure that the room is cat proofed. Remove mattress and box springs or place them directly on the floor. Hiding under a bed is the first place the cat will run and it is almost impossible to get them out. Also block behind dressers or book cases. Cats can fit into very small spaces. You do want to have an appropriate hiding spot for the cat. This can be an old box turned on its side or a hiding box found on a cat tree. Also make sure all windows are tightly closed and blinds are up with the cords hidden. Do not be surprised if the cat throws himself against the window in an attempt to escape.
9. If you do not have an empty room available or the cat is very wild, you can use a large dog crate or fasten two smaller crates together. Just be sure there is enough room for a small litter pan and food. If you need to use a crate, I would suggest keeping the crate covered with a sheet or towel when the cat is alone. This will help to calm the cat. Eventually you will need a cat proofed space where you can move the cat.
10. You will want to start with 2 litter boxes. Many feral cats are not used to urinating and defecating in the same location. When choosing a litter, you can use fresh clean potting soil mixed with non clumping litter or you can try Dr. Elsey’s Litter Attract. I have found the Litter Attract to work very well. If the cat has an accident on the floor, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it into the litter box. Do the same with any stool. Make sure you clean the area very well with a good enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor. Place the litter boxes away from the food and water.
11. Feliway plugins are a great way to help a nervous cat adjust. Most cats find the product soothing. You can find Feliway at most pet stores as well as on Amazon.
12. Another product I found helpful was Composure treats or Composure Liquid Max. The first few nights inside are very stressful. The cat will often yowl and cry all night. The Composure is very useful in calming the cat at night. I first tried the treats, but after a week or so, the cat no longer liked the treat. I then switched to the liquid as it was very easy to mix into wet food. Composure is available at the best price on Amazon.
Thank you for wanting to help this sweet cat. It was certainly in the shelter for a long time. Socialization may be slow and this one may never be a lap kitty and may always be fearful of other humans as well as loud noises. Yet give her time to adjust. It can be a long long process. Many of us here have rescued and socialized feral/semi feral/stray cats. It takes patience and lots of it. She may hide a lot too.
Here are some tips for socializing this kitty:
1. No direct eye contact. Feral cats find this very threatening. Keep your gaze over the top of their head or look down.
2. Talk softly. You want them to get used to your voice. Carry on a conversation or even read aloud from a book or magazine.
3. Sit on the ground so you are not looming over the cat. You also want to keep your movements slow.
4. Food rewards are the way to a ferals heart. Find a special yummy treat such as plain cooked chicken or turkey, salmon, tuna or sardines. I would start by giving them a very small plate with some of the special treat. I would then have small pieces beside me and begin to toss the treat towards the cat. Each toss I would get the treat a little closer to me. I would do this activity each day. After a few weeks, the cats are often getting quite close as long as you keep your movements slow and gaze down.
A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food. Cats love the chicken or turkey. The jar is very small with a blue label. The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices. I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I offered it on a spoon. When working with young ferals or kittens, they can often be coaxed to lick this off your fingers. Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.
5. Remember that when working with ferals it is often 1 step forward and 2 steps back. Just take it slow and steady. Also celebrate the small advancements. I remember the day that Shadow first meowed to me. He had been with me for 3 months. I cried tears of joy that morning!
6. Jackson Galaxy of Animal Planets, “My Cat From Hell” series is the cat guru. He has a line of flower essences that are specially designed for cat behaviors. He even has one for feral cats. I have used this essence with great success on all of my feral cats. Here is a link.
7. When I first began working with feral cats I searched the internet for ideas. I really wanted to see a video. I stumbled across this 3 part video series from the Urban Cat League of New York. The videos show the rescue and socialization of feral kittens. Even though I have never rescued feral kittens, many of the techniques can be applied to older feral cats too. Check out the videos here.
8. You will need a room that is designated just for this kitty. If possible this should be a room where the cat will be confined for a period of time. You can use a spare bedroom or even a small bathroom. If using a bedroom or other room of your home, be sure that the room is cat proofed. Remove mattress and box springs or place them directly on the floor. Hiding under a bed is the first place the cat will run and it is almost impossible to get them out. Also block behind dressers or book cases. Cats can fit into very small spaces. You do want to have an appropriate hiding spot for the cat. This can be an old box turned on its side or a hiding box found on a cat tree. Also make sure all windows are tightly closed and blinds are up with the cords hidden. Do not be surprised if the cat throws himself against the window in an attempt to escape.
9. If you do not have an empty room available or the cat is very wild, you can use a large dog crate or fasten two smaller crates together. Just be sure there is enough room for a small litter pan and food. If you need to use a crate, I would suggest keeping the crate covered with a sheet or towel when the cat is alone. This will help to calm the cat. Eventually you will need a cat proofed space where you can move the cat.
10. You will want to start with 2 litter boxes. Many feral cats are not used to urinating and defecating in the same location. When choosing a litter, you can use fresh clean potting soil mixed with non clumping litter or you can try Dr. Elsey’s Litter Attract. I have found the Litter Attract to work very well. If the cat has an accident on the floor, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it into the litter box. Do the same with any stool. Make sure you clean the area very well with a good enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor. Place the litter boxes away from the food and water.
11. Feliway plugins are a great way to help a nervous cat adjust. Most cats find the product soothing. You can find Feliway at most pet stores as well as on Amazon.
12. Another product I found helpful was Composure treats or Composure Liquid Max. The first few nights inside are very stressful. The cat will often yowl and cry all night. The Composure is very useful in calming the cat at night. I first tried the treats, but after a week or so, the cat no longer liked the treat. I then switched to the liquid as it was very easy to mix into wet food. Composure is available at the best price on Amazon.
Thank you for wanting to help this sweet cat. It was certainly in the shelter for a long time. Socialization may be slow and this one may never be a lap kitty and may always be fearful of other humans as well as loud noises. Yet give her time to adjust. It can be a long long process. Many of us here have rescued and socialized feral/semi feral/stray cats. It takes patience and lots of it. She may hide a lot too.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #5
A lot of what I read online suggested that she would leave her kennel to check out the room when the house was quiet, that she would challenge me by staring at me or prhaps be agressive but i not getting anything from her. No eye contact and I definitely expected her to eat or use the bathroom by now.
There you have it, your questions answered, but do let us know the progress so that more help will come your way if needed 
That sounds like the behavior of a socialized cat more than a feral(ish) cat. Ferals are more cautious than curious and her behavior thus far seems to suggest more feral than stray in terms of disposition. My little girl seemed to think the less she acknowledged me the quicker I would be gone. The only time she made a move to leave her kennel when we were socializing was when she thought we wouldn't notice her finding a better hiding spot.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #8
I guess to me she seems scared to death. Not leaving her kennel, not eating or using the bathroom, looking away like she wants to dissappear. The staff at the shelter could not handle her but from time to time would be able to pet her ears without her hissing. I guess that's why she was listed as semi feral. So what you're saying is she's more socialized then she appears based on her behavior?
More along the lines of the behavior you were expecting would be for a socialized cats. What you are seeing is a semi/mostly feral cat. She is terrified and doesn't understand anything that is happening. She will adjust with time and patience. There are really good tips from ShadowsRescue.
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #10
Yes, do start right away but enter slowly and just call his name in a sweet voice as you enter the room as not to catch him by surprise.
Once inside, get down on your fours and move in slowly. Then you can either read a book softly, or have a normal conversation with him. Do slow eyes blinking with him and as you blink, bow your head and look away. Don't stare him in the eyes. Once you blink and look away, this tells him that it is not a confrontation and it shows you are submissive. Keep doing this several times as soon as he looks at you. Once he's confidence that you are not a threat to him, he may blink back at you.
Progress step by step and don't rush and freak him out.
Sit with him a few times a day or as often as you can. Try to keep noise level down in the house.
Do ask questions if you are unsure and we'll try to help
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Welcome to the forum! It's a great place where (as you're finding) there are lots of kind folks with a vast array of experience who are happy to help answer anything they can (& usually someone can!).
I've socialized feral, semi-feral, and just "scaredy cats" for years, and if I've learned one thing it's that (like people) every single one has their own internal timetable...darnit! And what a loving, selfless thing for you to do - taking this feral/semi-feral (either way - horribly terrified) furry soul into your home to hopefully socialize her so she can find a home! Very few people would do that - but it sounds like she wouldn't have had a chance at adoption in her current state. Sitting in a cage in a shelter (& I volunteer at a no-kill cat shelter, so I'm not saying anything bad about shelters) 24/7, terrified, has probably resulted in her retreating further into herself. So just remember, when you're having a frustrating day with your foster, that while progress may be slower than you'd like, you're very likely going to be her best shot at learning to trust - hopefully love-humans. If she is feral/semi-feral ---I always try to think of it from their point of view - avoiding humans was ingrained into her brain at birth. So avoiding - making herself seem "invisible" - is what kept her alive in the outside world. My analogy I always use is it's how would I feel if I were plucked up by a big alien I'd been taught I should fear-that I couldn't speak their language so I don't know if the noises they make mean they're friendly or going to make me into stew the next day. Then I'm shoved in a cage, where I STILL don't have a clue. You just have to get her to eventually understand "your language"...and that you aren't fattening her up for next week's stew.
Firstly -
shadowsrescue
(as always!) offered a ton of on-the nose advice. I use all of the things she mentioned - and they're al great suggestions. I'll try not to reiterate too much of that list - but I might a little--so forgive me if I do. That 3 part video from Urban Cat league is fantastic.
A couple of questions (I don't think they've been asked/answered yet-but if I'm making you repeat something - sorry!!)--but may help us have even more specifics to offer. Do you know how old she is? (Obviously over 13 months) Do you know how/why she was brought to the shelter? (As in - was she brought in as a baby? If as a baby, did she come in with a mom and/or siblings? It'd be helpful to know just because if she did come w/siblings that did socialize and adopt out. Was she trapped, or surrendered? In the 13 months she's been at the shelter - was she ever allowed out to interact with other cats - or has she been caged every day of that 13 months? Every bit of info helps
What type of room are you keeping her in? And when you mention she's in a kennel, do you mean kennel as in cat/dog carrier, or large crate? What I've found works best for me is setting aside a spare room (I realize that's not always possible), but as mentioned before - it needs to be 110% "cat proofed." I've been socializing for years, but I have to say I never cease to be amazed what a terrified cat/kitten can squeee themselves behind/under/into!!!! So we use our guest room (ours has a bed and cable, so I never have to miss a bad Bravo Housewives show while socializing! Plus eventually, I work on sleeping in the room with them). If there's a bed, put the mattress directly on the floor...make sure every possible hidey-hole is plugged up...we stack books around the base of dressers, etc...make sure all closets, etc are completely closed.
I always start them in a cat carrier with the door removed, and soft towels or fleece inside the carrier. This, until she starts to trust you a bit, will be her "safe zone"-a cave where she can feel secure, but you can still get to her. I put a small stuffed animal in there for them to snuggle with if it's a single kitty. Then that carrier goes inside a very large wire dog crate. Food and water are out in the crate, with the litterbox as far from the food/water in the crate as possible.
I leave either music (some people like classical -I use a mix -like an NPR station that has soothing music AND people talking) on 24/7. Or I leave the tv on softly on a very "non-scream/non-gunshot/explosion" channel-like HGTV. The tv and/or radio does double duty ---the voices get her to be more accustomed to various human voices -- and they serve as a bit of "white noise" so that every sound she hears doesn't panic her. I also always put little toys in the crate so that she has something to keep her mind occupied at times.
You'll be tempted to let her out quickly- especially knowing she's been caged so long. But keeping her in there until you see some signs of trust in you really is best --and will in the long run, shorten socializing time.
I too couldn't socialize without Gerbers Stage 2 chicken baby food. it stinks to high heaven, but it's so attractive to most cats we all call it "kitty crack." In the beginning, I put a little on a long-handled tea spoon ---or even better, an extendable spoon (they have them on Amazon) and put it thru the crate sides, talking softly while I offer it. The idea is that eventually she'll associate the addictive yumminess of it with your presence ---and food is the way to almost every kitty's heart in the beginning. If possible I only leave hard food and water out 24/7...then when I'm in the room I bring a little soft food. Again -the idea is that you don't bring anything bad -- you're always the bearer of all things yummy!
The main thing you can't shortcut is time. My husband and I both work from home as graphic designers, so we're able to spend more time with them than most people. I usually take my laptop and sit on the floor and work. Get on her level. Talk with her, softly, about anything & everything. Read aloud. Give color commentary on what's on tv. Anything to get her used to your voice--add that to the occasional spoon of Gerbers and she'll start to realize you only bring good things to her life.
I do also always start talking softly before I even open the door to "her room"---I then knock softly--always saying something similar about "I can't wait to see Twink!" Or "where's my pretty girl". The idea is she'll never be shocked when you enter the room--it may sound goofy but it really does work for me! Surprises aren't good when socializing. Routine, gentleness, moving slowly and talking slowly...those all help.
The main thing is time. And love. And patience. Lots of patience. It'll be two steps forward and then one or two steps back. But 99.8% of the time....the steps forward come more often than the steps back. And there's nothing more rewarding then when you finally realize she's looking forward to coming to be with her!
Good luck - and keep us posted!!!!
I've socialized feral, semi-feral, and just "scaredy cats" for years, and if I've learned one thing it's that (like people) every single one has their own internal timetable...darnit! And what a loving, selfless thing for you to do - taking this feral/semi-feral (either way - horribly terrified) furry soul into your home to hopefully socialize her so she can find a home! Very few people would do that - but it sounds like she wouldn't have had a chance at adoption in her current state. Sitting in a cage in a shelter (& I volunteer at a no-kill cat shelter, so I'm not saying anything bad about shelters) 24/7, terrified, has probably resulted in her retreating further into herself. So just remember, when you're having a frustrating day with your foster, that while progress may be slower than you'd like, you're very likely going to be her best shot at learning to trust - hopefully love-humans. If she is feral/semi-feral ---I always try to think of it from their point of view - avoiding humans was ingrained into her brain at birth. So avoiding - making herself seem "invisible" - is what kept her alive in the outside world. My analogy I always use is it's how would I feel if I were plucked up by a big alien I'd been taught I should fear-that I couldn't speak their language so I don't know if the noises they make mean they're friendly or going to make me into stew the next day. Then I'm shoved in a cage, where I STILL don't have a clue. You just have to get her to eventually understand "your language"...and that you aren't fattening her up for next week's stew.
Firstly -
shadowsrescue
(as always!) offered a ton of on-the nose advice. I use all of the things she mentioned - and they're al great suggestions. I'll try not to reiterate too much of that list - but I might a little--so forgive me if I do. That 3 part video from Urban Cat league is fantastic. A couple of questions (I don't think they've been asked/answered yet-but if I'm making you repeat something - sorry!!)--but may help us have even more specifics to offer. Do you know how old she is? (Obviously over 13 months) Do you know how/why she was brought to the shelter? (As in - was she brought in as a baby? If as a baby, did she come in with a mom and/or siblings? It'd be helpful to know just because if she did come w/siblings that did socialize and adopt out. Was she trapped, or surrendered? In the 13 months she's been at the shelter - was she ever allowed out to interact with other cats - or has she been caged every day of that 13 months? Every bit of info helps
What type of room are you keeping her in? And when you mention she's in a kennel, do you mean kennel as in cat/dog carrier, or large crate? What I've found works best for me is setting aside a spare room (I realize that's not always possible), but as mentioned before - it needs to be 110% "cat proofed." I've been socializing for years, but I have to say I never cease to be amazed what a terrified cat/kitten can squeee themselves behind/under/into!!!! So we use our guest room (ours has a bed and cable, so I never have to miss a bad Bravo Housewives show while socializing! Plus eventually, I work on sleeping in the room with them). If there's a bed, put the mattress directly on the floor...make sure every possible hidey-hole is plugged up...we stack books around the base of dressers, etc...make sure all closets, etc are completely closed.
I always start them in a cat carrier with the door removed, and soft towels or fleece inside the carrier. This, until she starts to trust you a bit, will be her "safe zone"-a cave where she can feel secure, but you can still get to her. I put a small stuffed animal in there for them to snuggle with if it's a single kitty. Then that carrier goes inside a very large wire dog crate. Food and water are out in the crate, with the litterbox as far from the food/water in the crate as possible.
I leave either music (some people like classical -I use a mix -like an NPR station that has soothing music AND people talking) on 24/7. Or I leave the tv on softly on a very "non-scream/non-gunshot/explosion" channel-like HGTV. The tv and/or radio does double duty ---the voices get her to be more accustomed to various human voices -- and they serve as a bit of "white noise" so that every sound she hears doesn't panic her. I also always put little toys in the crate so that she has something to keep her mind occupied at times.
You'll be tempted to let her out quickly- especially knowing she's been caged so long. But keeping her in there until you see some signs of trust in you really is best --and will in the long run, shorten socializing time.
I too couldn't socialize without Gerbers Stage 2 chicken baby food. it stinks to high heaven, but it's so attractive to most cats we all call it "kitty crack." In the beginning, I put a little on a long-handled tea spoon ---or even better, an extendable spoon (they have them on Amazon) and put it thru the crate sides, talking softly while I offer it. The idea is that eventually she'll associate the addictive yumminess of it with your presence ---and food is the way to almost every kitty's heart in the beginning.
If possible I only leave hard food and water out 24/7...then when I'm in the room I bring a little soft food. Again -the idea is that you don't bring anything bad -- you're always the bearer of all things yummy! The main thing you can't shortcut is time. My husband and I both work from home as graphic designers, so we're able to spend more time with them than most people. I usually take my laptop and sit on the floor and work. Get on her level. Talk with her, softly, about anything & everything. Read aloud. Give color commentary on what's on tv. Anything to get her used to your voice--add that to the occasional spoon of Gerbers and she'll start to realize you only bring good things to her life.
I do also always start talking softly before I even open the door to "her room"---I then knock softly--always saying something similar about "I can't wait to see Twink!" Or "where's my pretty girl". The idea is she'll never be shocked when you enter the room--it may sound goofy but it really does work for me! Surprises aren't good when socializing. Routine, gentleness, moving slowly and talking slowly...those all help.
The main thing is time. And love. And patience. Lots of patience. It'll be two steps forward and then one or two steps back. But 99.8% of the time....the steps forward come more often than the steps back. And there's nothing more rewarding then when you finally realize she's looking forward to coming to be with her!
Good luck - and keep us posted!!!!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #13
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #14
Some cat react to catnip and you can certainly try. Just sprinkle a small amount on a blanket or towel.
What have you tried to encourage her to eat? Did you try heating the food up to release the aromas? Have you tried tuna or plain cooked chicken. At this point you really need to up the ante and get her to eat. I would set our numerous things. Tuna is usually a winner. Keep some of the water with it so you can lap it up.
Feliway is much cheaper on Amazon. The petstores are very expensive.
What have you tried to encourage her to eat? Did you try heating the food up to release the aromas? Have you tried tuna or plain cooked chicken. At this point you really need to up the ante and get her to eat. I would set our numerous things. Tuna is usually a winner. Keep some of the water with it so you can lap it up.
Feliway is much cheaper on Amazon. The petstores are very expensive.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #16
I've tried soft cat food and chicken.I'm going home for lunch and I will try the tuna with the juice in a separate bowl.I will also stop by the pet store on my way home for cat nip in case this has a chance of working to relax her.
Try warming the tuna up in the microwave just a bit so that it will release the aroma. You also can try the Gerber stage 2 baby food in chicken or turkey. It's sold with the baby food in small glass jars with a blue label. The ingredients are chicken/turkey, water and modified food starch. Once again you can try to heat it up a bit.
Also use some of the tuna water or get some chicken broth and dilute it with water and leave that out for her to drink.
Do you know what she was eating at the shelter? It might be important to offer her something familiar as well.
If she doesn't eat by tomorrow morning, I would think about calling the shelter and asking more questions.
Do you know if she has had vet care recently?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #18
I set out the tuna and a separate bowl for the juice. We don't have Gerber bottled baby food at our stores apparently so I grabbed another brand. Hopefully this works. She's alone for the afternoon while I'm at work so maybe she'll feel safe enough to eat. The shelter provided me with her food and litter so it's the same as the shelter. She's approx.2-3 years and was caught as a stray with her kitten.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #19
Try warming some of her wet cat food.
Does she exhibit any signs of illness?
She does need to eat. Cats will not intentionally starve themselves. Yet she could be sick from the stress of the move.
If she has not eaten by tomorrow morning it will be important she is seen by a vet.
Keep trying all types of warmed food.
Does she exhibit any signs of illness?
She does need to eat. Cats will not intentionally starve themselves. Yet she could be sick from the stress of the move.
If she has not eaten by tomorrow morning it will be important she is seen by a vet.
Keep trying all types of warmed food.
