Domesticating a feral that is two years old

blackie1

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Hi there,

I will be bringing in a feral cat in a couple of days, I thought I would reach out to you for advice.

My husband and I have been the caretakers of three feral cats for the last two years. Unfortunately, two of them have passed away recently, which leaves little "Bandit" on her own. She was born outside and the only human contact she has had is with us. Already we can pet her and she loves being petted! Even our niece, who fed her while we were away a few weeks ago, was able to approach and pet her.

I do have some experience with ferals. I have trapped, neutered and returned the three ferals I mentioned and have domesticated their kittens and found loving homes for them. But I have never domesticated an adult. Bandit is about 2.5 years old.

I have read several posts on how to proceed, so I already have a good idea of what to do, however, I have some concerns and questions about bringing her in. I already have a dog and two indoor cats (the cats were feral kittens and they are now extremely friendly, wonderful cats). My dog is a small Westie, who loves our cats and is not aggressive in any way. Another thing which may be helpful is the fact that our cats kind of know the feral we want to bring in, as they often lie next to each other with a glass sliding door separating them from the outdoors and our kitchen! I have done some research about "introductions" with our indoor pets, so I think I'm good on that front. But I do have a few questions. For instance has anyone had success with adult ferals and with introductions to a dog?

Also, some people recommend putting the feral in a large cage (which I have - a large cage-like dog crate) and putting her bedding, food/water and litter inside. Part of me likes this idea, as I want to ensure Bandit doesn't do her business on our carpet. The cage would go in our office with the door closed. This being said, I think I might prefer the idea of no cage, but worry that she won't use her litter boxes (I would put two in the room just to be safe). Can you please tell me what your thoughts are on this? Cage or no cage?

Thank you!

Carole
 

StefanZ

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Hi there,

I will be bringing in a feral cat in a couple of days, I thought I would reach out to you for advice.

My husband and I have been the caretakers of three feral cats for the last two years. Unfortunately, two of them have passed away recently, which leaves little "Bandit" on her own. She was born outside and the only human contact she has had is with us. Already we can pet her and she loves being petted! Even our niece, who fed her while we were away a few weeks ago, was able to approach and pet her.

I do have some experience with ferals. I have trapped, neutered and returned the three ferals I mentioned and have domesticated their kittens and found loving homes for them. But I have never domesticated an adult. Bandit is about 2.5 years old.

I have read several posts on how to proceed, so I already have a good idea of what to do, however, I have some concerns and questions about bringing her in. I already have a dog and two indoor cats (the cats were feral kittens and they are now extremely friendly, wonderful cats). My dog is a small Westie, who loves our cats and is not aggressive in any way. Another thing which may be helpful is the fact that our cats kind of know the feral we want to bring in, as they often lie next to each other with a glass sliding door separating them from the outdoors and our kitchen! I have done some research about "introductions" with our indoor pets, so I think I'm good on that front. But I do have a few questions. For instance has anyone had success with adult ferals and with introductions to a dog?

Also, some people recommend putting the feral in a large cage (which I have - a large cage-like dog crate) and putting her bedding, food/water and litter inside. Part of me likes this idea, as I want to ensure Bandit doesn't do her business on our carpet. The cage would go in our office with the door closed. This being said, I think I might prefer the idea of no cage, but worry that she won't use her litter boxes (I would put two in the room just to be safe). Can you please tell me what your thoughts are on this? Cage or no cage?

Thank you!

Carole
Both variations are feasible.

You DO have some preparadness - she knows you, she knows you are a dear friend and protector.

she knows your residents somewhat, and vice versa.  The cats are ex ferales, so you KNOW they have the immunity system above average.  And thus, you dont need to overdo the customary quarantine....

Also, ferales taken in tend to adapt to the residents, they are usually either  submissive, or in other way eager to please themselves in...  Nothing written in stone, but as average compared with buyed cat...

Have at least two litters, one with dirt and leaves, one with common clay litter. You may sprinkle some Kitten attract litter to be extra safe...

Im sure it will be excellent.  Love and patience you do have.   :)
 

shadowsrescue

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I prefer to use a room of her own instead of a cage.  I brought a feral cat inside when he was just over 3 years old.  The process was slow, but the results were amazing.  I used a spare bedroom.  If you have a room that you could use that would be a great option.  The key is to clean out the room so that the cat cannot hide under the bed or get behind other large furniture.  I picked the bed up off the floor and leaned it against the wall.  I blocked the book case by draping large tarps over it and securing with bricks.  I stuffed rolled up towels between the wall and large furniture.  You really want to force kitty to be out and about, not hiding under the bed or behind large furniture.  Yet you do want him to have a safe hiding spot such as a cat tree hiding hole or even a box with a cozy blanket.

Be sure that the first step involves a trip to the vet.  You want her to have a clean bill of health first.  Also up to date vaccines if she will be around your other cats and dog. 

Thank you for taking the time and effort to help this sweet girl.  Give her lots of time and love.  My boy took one solid year to fully adjust.  I also had another cat inside, a large dog and other feral cats outside.  Try not to rush the process.  Give her time to adjust to inside living before allowing her freedom to explore your home and meet your other pets.  Too much too soon is a recipe for disaster.  Slow and steady wins the race!

Here is a great article on socializing shy kitties.

http://bestfriends.org/resources/socializing-cats-how-socialize-very-shy-or-fearful-cat

Here also are some other tips:

1.  The first tip is to have a room that is dedicated to the cat.  If possible this should be a room where the cat will be confined for a period of time.  You can use a spare bedroom or even a small bathroom.  If using a bedroom or other room of your home, be sure that the room is cat proofed.  Remove mattress and box springs or place them directly on the floor.  Hiding under a bed is the first place the cat will run and it is almost impossible to get them out.  Also block behind dressers or book cases.  Cats can fit into very small spaces.  You do want to have an appropriate hiding spot for the cat.  This can be an old box turned on its side or a hiding box found on a cat tree.  Also make sure all windows are tightly closed and blinds are up with the cords hidden.  Do not be surprised if the cat throws himself against the window in an attempt to escape.

2.  If you do not have an empty room available or the cat is very wild,  you can use a large dog crate or fasten two smaller crates together.  Just be sure there is enough room for a small litter pan and food.  If you need to use a crate, I would suggest keeping the crate covered with a sheet or towel  when the cat is alone.  This will help to calm the cat.  Eventually you will need a cat proofed space where you can move the cat.

3.  You will want to start with 2 litter boxes.  Many feral cats are not used to urinating and defecating in the same location. When choosing a  litter, you can use fresh clean potting soil mixed with non clumping litter or you can try Dr. Elsey’s Litter Attract.  I have found the Litter Attract to work very well.  If the cat has an accident on the floor, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it into the litter box.  Do the same with any stool.  Make sure you clean the area very well with a good enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor.  Place the litter boxes away from the food and water.

4.  Feliway plugins are a great way to help a nervous cat adjust.  Most cats find the product soothing.  You can find Feliway at most pet stores as well as on Amazon.

5.  Another product I found helpful was Composure treats or Composure Liquid Max.  The first few nights inside are very stressful.  The cat will often yowl and cry all night.  The Composure is very useful in calming the cat at night.  I first tried the treats, but after a week or so, the cat no longer liked the treat.  I then switched to the liquid as it was very easy to mix into wet food.  Composure is available at the best price on Amazon.

6.  No direct eye contact.  Feral cats find this very threatening.  Keep your gaze over the top of their head or look down.

7.  Talk softly.  You want them to get used to your voice.  Carry on a conversation or even read aloud from a book or magazine.

8.  Sit on the ground so you are not looming over the cat.  You also want to keep your movements slow.

9.  Food rewards are the way to a ferals heart.  Find a special yummy treat such as plain cooked chicken or turkey, salmon, tuna or sardines.  I would start by giving them a very small plate with some of the special treat.  I would then have small pieces beside me and begin to toss the treat towards the cat.  Each toss I would get the treat a little closer to me.  I would do this activity each day.  After a few weeks, the cats are often getting quite close as long as you keep your movements slow and gaze down.

A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food.  Cats love the chicken or turkey.  The jar is very small with a blue label.  The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices.  I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I  offered it on a spoon.  When working with young ferals or kittens, they can often be coaxed to lick this off your fingers.  Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.

10.  Remember that when working with ferals it is often 1 step forward and 2 steps back.  Just take it slow and steady.  Also celebrate the small advancements.

11.  Jackson Galaxy of Animal Planets, “My Cat From Hell” series is the cat guru.  He has a line of flower essences that are specially designed for cat behaviors.  He even has one for feral cats.  I have used this essence with great success on all of my feral cats.  
 

msaimee

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I agree with using a room instead of a cage. Feral cats get stressed in confinement, and you will be off to a much more positive start by giving him a room. If you mix a little dirt from outside in the litter box, he will get the idea immediately. In your case, you can allow supervised visits between him and the other cats with a barrier such as a baby gate or screen door in a few days. From my experience, feral cats taken inside often feel safer and more at ease when they are around other cats. You have two huge advantages. He already trusts you and allows you to pet him, and he and your resident cats already know each other. The socialization process should not take too long or be very difficult. Try to make his experience indoors as positive as possible, so that if he does not adjust to being indoors all of the time, he will know that is an option especially in bad weather. If you are financially able, consider purchasing for him a six foot cat tree on eBay. They cost just under $100. That would give him both height and places to hide in because they have cubby holes. It would be his little tower of safety. This would be a luxury, however, and not a necessity. It does make the process a little easier. Good luck and thank you for taking care of him.
 
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