Newlbie here with feral/stray cat

fresshh

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Hello, I have a feral/stray cat (I'm not sure which category he falls into) living in my spare room. I just got him yesterday.

I have read that it takes a long time for a cat to get comfortable, which is totally understandable. I have the patience for it. I am looking for advice and success stories from people who have had success with a cat like this becoming a house pet.

How did I end up with this cat? I had been thinking about rescuing a cat. I live alone and have no pets (had a cat for 18 years before), so I thought it was a good time. Someone I know had a cat living their parking garage for one month. She said she'd trap the cat and take him to the vet and then if all was well, give him to me. I thought I'd name him Mr. Parker.

Thanks in advance,

Mr. Parker's friend

Here's all of the information I have on him and then some:

The cat's history

Lived in parking garage of condo complex for 1 month.

Was fed by resident every day.

Cat would get close to resident and flop and roll and knead, but no further contact

The vet said he was microchipped and had broken free from a feral colony.

He had already been neutered and ear notched.

How he ended up living in the downtown parking garage is a mystery.

Saturday, 8/20

Resident trapped the cat and took to vet

Vet did exam, shots, flea treatment

I set up a room in my house with litter box, food, water, scratching post, and a couple of toys

I put sheets on the small sofa in the room

The cat had been sedated by vet

I set carrier in room with a blanket on top and opened the door so he could come out when ready

I had to go out at 4:30 pm and when I came back at 8:30, the cat had exited the carrier and was burrowed under the sheets on the small sofa in the room.

A picture frame that was on a hutch was knocked down on the ground, so I assume he ran around scared a bit

I went in and spoke softly a little, sitting in the room for about 30 minutes

I left a night light on in the room

Sunday, 8/21

This morning I went in the room and sat and spoke softly to him

I could see him moving a little under the sheet

He has not used litter box

I lifted the sheet and placed a few treats underneath

I sat some more and talked for a while
 

shadowsrescue

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Here are a few tips for you:

1.  The first tip is to have a room that is dedicated to the cat.  If possible this should be a room where the cat will be confined for a period of time.  You can use a spare bedroom or even a small bathroom.  If using a bedroom or other room of your home, be sure that the room is cat proofed.  Remove mattress and box springs or place them directly on the floor.  Hiding under a bed is the first place the cat will run and it is almost impossible to get them out.  Also block behind dressers or book cases.  Cats can fit into very small spaces.  You do want to have an appropriate hiding spot for the cat.  This can be an old box turned on its side or a hiding box found on a cat tree.  Also make sure all windows are tightly closed and blinds are up with the cords hidden.  Do not be surprised if the cat throws himself against the window in an attempt to escape.

2.  If you do not have an empty room available or the cat is very wild,  you can use a large dog crate or fasten two smaller crates together.  Just be sure there is enough room for a small litter pan and food.  If you need to use a crate, I would suggest keeping the crate covered with a sheet or towel  when the cat is alone.  This will help to calm the cat.  Eventually you will need a cat proofed space where you can move the cat.

3.  You will want to start with 2 litter boxes.  Many feral cats are not used to urinating and defecating in the same location. When choosing a  litter, you can use fresh clean potting soil mixed with non clumping litter or you can try Dr. Elsey’s Litter Attract.  I have found the Litter Attract to work very well.  If the cat has an accident on the floor, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it into the litter box.  Do the same with any stool.  Make sure you clean the area very well with a good enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor.  Place the litter boxes away from the food and water.

4.  Feliway plugins are a great way to help a nervous cat adjust.  Most cats find the product soothing.  You can find Feliway at most pet stores as well as on Amazon.

5.  Another product I found helpful was Composure treats or Composure Liquid Max.  The first few nights inside are very stressful.  The cat will often yowl and cry all night.  The Composure is very useful in calming the cat at night.  I first tried the treats, but after a week or so, the cat no longer liked the treat.  I then switched to the liquid as it was very easy to mix into wet food.  Composure is available at the best price on Amazon.

6.  No direct eye contact.  Feral cats find this very threatening.  Keep your gaze over the top of their head or look down.

7.  Talk softly.  You want them to get used to your voice.  Carry on a conversation or even read aloud from a book or magazine.

8.  Sit on the ground so you are not looming over the cat.  You also want to keep your movements slow.

9.  Food rewards are the way to a ferals heart.  Find a special yummy treat such as plain cooked chicken or turkey, salmon, tuna or sardines.  I would start by giving them a very small plate with some of the special treat.  I would then have small pieces beside me and begin to toss the treat towards the cat.  Each toss I would get the treat a little closer to me.  I would do this activity each day.  After a few weeks, the cats are often getting quite close as long as you keep your movements slow and gaze down.

A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food.  Cats love the chicken or turkey.  The jar is very small with a blue label.  The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices.  I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I  offered it on a spoon.  When working with young ferals or kittens, they can often be coaxed to lick this off your fingers.  Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.

10.  Remember that when working with ferals it is often 1 step forward and 2 steps back.  Just take it slow and steady.  Also celebrate the small advancements.

11.  Jackson Galaxy of Animal Planets, “My Cat From Hell” series is the cat guru.  He has a line of flower essences that are specially designed for cat behaviors.  He even has one for feral cats.  I have used this essence with great success on all of my feral cats.  

Also here is another website with some great tips:

http://bestfriends.org/resources/socializing-cats-how-socialize-very-shy-or-fearful-cat

Also I like to use a homemade "pet petter".  I took an old wand toy ( you could also use a stick or dowel rod).  I then wrapped a soft sock around one end and used duct tape to hold it in place.  I then took a soft piece of flannel and put it around the sock and secured with duct tape.  I would use this to play with the feral and then to gently begin to touch.  It is much less threatening ( and safer too) than your hand. 

Just be sure to take this slowly.  Working with feral/semi feral or stray cats can be tricky at first.  I like to make many visits throughout the day for short periods of time.  I would go in for 5-10 minutes and sit and talk.  I always brought a yummy treat or plain cooked chicken that I would offer.  Then I would leave and come back again in an hour.  I did this as often as possible.  Just visits, but often.

Thank you for rescuing this sweet one.  He certainly deserves a nice home and some love too.

Here are some pictures of me using the pet petter.


 

molly92

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I second everything ShadowsRescue says. I've also used the best friends guide and it was very helpful. Baby food is also a favorite treat of mine when you get to that stage, because they can't grab it and retreat, but have to stay where the food is (on a utensil or finger) and lick it all off.

In the beginning I also found it helped to go into the cat's room after setting food out for it and just make myself busy doing something at the opposite end of the room. Cleaning, scooping litter, reading outloud, doing work with some rustling papers, just something with a little bit of constant noise so the cat could hear that I was focused on something other than him. That made him feel safe enough to come out and eat in my presence, and the first time he did that I was surprised and spooked him, but after that I learned to just pretend like I didn't notice he had come out and he got more and more comfortable with me being there. I think it helps the cat relax when they learn that your attention isn't going to be on them 100% of the time. Predators watch their prey very intently, and cats know this, so it's nice to see that this big animal isn't very focused on them and probably does not want to eat them.

You're doing a really wonderful thing. Watching a cat slowly learn that they are not only safe with you, but are also warm and dry and healthy and loved and understand how great it is to be cared for as a pet is a really heartwarming experience. Because former ferals do know what it's like to have to live on their own and struggle, they can end up being the most grateful cats you'll ever have.
 

catsknowme

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   You have received excellent suggestions! In my area, with limited resources, I don't have the opportunities to access all the products mentioned, but have had, after a long time, success anyway. I have several ferals in my yard that come close but can't be touched - I have to settle for eye-blink-exchanges and seeing them lounging comfortably in my yard.

Play, especially with a young cat, is always intriguing for them. I draw a short string or a teaser toy nearby, while speaking to them softly, then put it up and busy myself nearby, like Molly. I sit on a cushion on the floor, so I am not so threatening - I find typing on a laptop works well because the tapping on the keys appeals to a cat's curious nature and as the cat gets more accustomed to me, I play videos with sound. Being on the computer keeps my attention focused elsewhere so that my "vibes" remain calm and relaxed (cats really do read our body language).

I applaud all that you have done for the little fellow - sounds like his colony must have had some sort of disruption - perhaps a large, dominant male ran him off or he was chased out of his home territory by a dog or unruly teenager....bless you for giving him safe, comfortable refuge!!! Susan
 
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fresshh

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Hi ShadowsRescue, Molly92  and catsknowme,

Thank you for the excellent suggestions. It has now been over 24 hours that Mr. Parker has been hiding under a sheet on the sofa. He hasn't eaten the dry food in the room or used the litter box. He hasn't meowed or anything.

My plan is tomorrow morning to come in with some wet food. 

Should I take the sheet off the sofa so he has to be more aware of me in the room? I am asking because I read in another post somewhere that the socialization is more successful if the cat can see you. (I know not to make eye contact yet).

Thanks again. Getting a little worried.
 

molly92

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That does sound pretty normal for a feral. He's not using the litter box because he's not eating or drinking. Wet food sounds like a good idea. Right now anything that he will eat is good, because it is not good for cats to go several days without food. 

I think giving them somewhere to hide is important so they can feel safe, but I also like to have control of their hiding place. I would remove the sheet and block off anywhere he can hide where you wouldn't be able to interact with him, but provide him with a few cardboard boxes to hide in instead. Then you can place his dish right outside his box and hopefully he will eat it when you leave. Later on this will be a good set up when you go on to other steps and use the petting wand.
 
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fresshh

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That does sound pretty normal for a feral. He's not using the litter box because he's not eating or drinking. Wet food sounds like a good idea. Right now anything that he will eat is good, because it is not good for cats to go several days without food. 

I think giving them somewhere to hide is important so they can feel safe, but I also like to have control of their hiding place. I would remove the sheet and block off anywhere he can hide where you wouldn't be able to interact with him, but provide him with a few cardboard boxes to hide in instead. Then you can place his dish right outside his box and hopefully he will eat it when you leave. Later on this will be a good set up when you go on to other steps and use the petting wand.
Thank you... I will try removing the sheet in the morning. I first need to place something around the sofa so he doesn't try to hide underneath it. I do have a box with a hole cut out and I also have his carrier with a towel over it... although he probably wants nothing to do with that since he came from the vet in it.

I will keep you posted. Thanks again!
 

babyhuffman

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Wow, you've gotten excellent advice from everyone. I never knew any of that when two of my cats came to me through my backyard. Shadow was the first. He actually wanted the love more than he wanted the food I offered him. He was about two the vet said. I took him to the vet before I brought him in because of my cat Taz. I didn't know I was supposed to keep them separate, but it didn't matter to them, the house was quite large and Shadow was very loving and social while Taz was tolerant, secure, and 4 years old himself.

Callie came about five years later, and her story was different. She too came from the backyard, and also wanted love more than food, but she was very warry. She and I approached each other more slowly, but our relationship grew stronger and we bonded. My granddaughter, who was 5 at the time told me I needed to take her to the vet so she could love her too. Anyway that's what I did because of Taz and Shadow. I found out from the vet that Callie was 10, had a heart murmur, and had been in a fight that had injured/permanently scarred her eye. When I brought her into the house I did the same as I had done with Shadow. I let them approach each other on their own terms. Each one had their own food and water bowls next to each other. Callie preferred to eat alone, and the boys respected that. Shadow, being the youngest, was still very playful but Taz and Callie would put up with this and even play too. When they had enough, they'd let him know. Bedtime was fun at our house and a little crowded too as they all had their sleeping spots on and surrounding me with Taz on my chest, Shadow as close to my left arm and side as he could get, and Callie on my legs or my right side. There were no fights at bedtime, mom was neutral territory.

After reading all the above posts, I am thinking that I really lucked out in not knowing what I was doing and not separating my cats at first. Now I have Baby. She's the only one. The others being dead these four years. I have no plans for acquiring any other cats or animals. I now live in an apartment, having had to leave my home, and it is just the right size for Baby and I.
 
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