Looking for some tips on caring for a v. timid semi-feral rescue that has to be handled daily!

Hi all,

My partner and I brought Lyra, a semi-feral cat with Feline Herpes Virus (FHV), home from a shelter last Wednesday. Since then we've been using the bonding room technique and kept her in a small study, spending time just being in the room with her.

Unfortunately, because of her FHV she has to have preventative eye ointment daily. Obviously, this is not her favourite activity. The shelter vets told us she would be OK without it for a few days while she settled, but that she would have to be back on the meds soon. By Friday, Lyra was eating, using the litter tray, and on both Saturday and Sunday she came out from her hiding place for (short) bursts of playtime/exploration while we were around.

We took this as a good sign and decided that after 3 days off medication it was time to go back on the meds! This turned out to mean a considerable amount of chasing her around the room, a lot of hissing and growling, and an involuntary defecation (from the cat). We eventually got her and applied the ointment. Since then she has retreated to her hiding place whenever we are around.

Has anyone got any tips on how to make the experience less stressful for her/calm her down afterwards. She needs the medication, or she might lose her eyes. But she hates being touched. Any ideas?

Thanks for reading this, and apologies if its in the wrong place (first time poster here!)

Simon

p.s. here are a few photos from pre-medication!

How long does she need to be on this eye medication.  From my experience ( have a shelter cat that also has FHV) and he was treated with the eye ointment until the infection was gone.  At that time we used Lysine (mixed in his food) daily as a preventative.

Have you been to a vet to see about this?  After bringing a cat home from the shelter, I always find it best to take the cat to a vet I will be using for a thorough exam.  You would want your vet to see the eye.

Shadow's rescue is right on - a vet visit is in order.  Your own vet needs to have a baseline, so he/she can follow Lyra's progress.

About your question - sometimes, we have to do things we and the cats hate for their own good.  There is a trick some people use in socialization which might work her.

Get a nice fluffy towel and wrap her in it, like a burrito.  Her face will be out and the meds can be applied.  Leave her in it for a bit, cradling her and talking softly.  Give a treat afterwards - food is always a good motivator.  There are actually Lysine treats, so that would be a good one.

She will probably still hate it but it has to be done.  When you can, go into the room and talk softly to her.  You can sit and read out loud, too.  Anything that will present a calming presence.  Visit her as often as possible and especially when there is no other agenda (like applying her ointment).

Thank you for taking care of her.

Thanks for the replies guys, very helpful.

So we're sticking with the vets used by the shelter (they use an outside vet, who is very good), as this way the shelter will continue to pay for her treatment related to the FHV.

The eye ointment is essentially a permanent thing. It is just a lubricant to keep everything healthy and try ward off an infection before it really takes hold. She has been having it done for the last 11 months - just not by us and not in this strange environment!

We're spending as much time in her room as possible just speaking to he and keeping our distance. And i'll definitely be trying the towel trick, thanks!

Thanks for the lysine tip, but what is it? I've not come across it before, how does it help a viral infection?

SimonLyra said:

 
Thanks for the replies guys, very helpful.

So we're sticking with the vets used by the shelter (they use an outside vet, who is very good), as this way the shelter will continue to pay for her treatment related to the FHV.

The eye ointment is essentially a permanent thing. It is just a lubricant to keep everything healthy and try ward off an infection before it really takes hold. She has been having it done for the last 11 months - just not by us and not in this strange environment!

We're spending as much time in her room as possible just speaking to he and keeping our distance. And i'll definitely be trying the towel trick, thanks!

Thanks for the lysine tip, but what is it? I've not come across it before, how does it help a viral infection?

Click to expand...

Here is what I have used in the past.  I used to get to from my vet, but it is available online much cheaper.  You just mix it into their wet food.  They also sell it in treat or paste formulas.

http://www.entirelypets.com/vetoquinol-viralys-lysine-for-cats-powder-100-grams.html

As for the kitty being shy, here is a website for working with shy kitties as well as some tips I have learned along the way.

http://bestfriends.org/resources/socializing-cats-how-socialize-very-shy-or-fearful-cat

1.  The first tip is to have a room that is dedicated to the cat.  If possible this should be a room where the cat will be confined for a period of time.  You can use a spare bedroom or even a small bathroom.  If using a bedroom or other room of your home, be sure that the room is cat proofed.  Remove mattress and box springs or place them directly on the floor.  Hiding under a bed is the first place the cat will run and it is almost impossible to get them out.  Also block behind dressers or book cases.  Cats can fit into very small spaces.  You do want to have an appropriate hiding spot for the cat.  This can be an old box turned on its side or a hiding box found on a cat tree.  Also make sure all windows are tightly closed and blinds are up with the cords hidden.  Do not be surprised if the cat throws himself against the window in an attempt to escape.

2.  If you do not have an empty room available or the cat is very wild,  you can use a large dog crate or fasten two smaller crates together.  Just be sure there is enough room for a small litter pan and food.  If you need to use a crate, I would suggest keeping the crate covered with a sheet or towel  when the cat is alone.  This will help to calm the cat.  Eventually you will need a cat proofed space where you can move the cat.

3.  You will want to start with 2 litter boxes.  Many feral cats are not used to urinating and defecating in the same location. When choosing a  litter, you can use fresh clean potting soil mixed with non clumping litter or you can try Dr. Elsey’s Litter Attract.  I have found the Litter Attract to work very well.  If the cat has an accident on the floor, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it into the litter box.  Do the same with any stool.  Make sure you clean the area very well with a good enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor.  Place the litter boxes away from the food and water.

4.  Feliway plugins are a great way to help a nervous cat adjust.  Most cats find the product soothing.  You can find Feliway at most pet stores as well as on Amazon.

5.  Another product I found helpful was Composure treats or Composure Liquid Max.  The first few nights inside are very stressful.  The cat will often yowl and cry all night.  The Composure is very useful in calming the cat at night.  I first tried the treats, but after a week or so, the cat no longer liked the treat.  I then switched to the liquid as it was very easy to mix into wet food.  Composure is available at the best price on Amazon.

6.  No direct eye contact.  Feral cats find this very threatening.  Keep your gaze over the top of their head or look down.

7.  Talk softly.  You want them to get used to your voice.  Carry on a conversation or even read aloud from a book or magazine.

8.  Sit on the ground so you are not looming over the cat.  You also want to keep your movements slow.  Visit the cat frequently throughout the day.  I often will go into the room and just sit and read aloud to the cat or talk about my day.  I also would leave a radio playing.

9.  Food rewards are the way to a ferals heart.  Find a special yummy treat such as plain cooked chicken or turkey, salmon, tuna or sardines.  I would start by giving them a very small plate with some of the special treat.  I would then have small pieces beside me and begin to toss the treat towards the cat.  Each toss I would get the treat a little closer to me.  I would do this activity each day.  After a few weeks, the cats are often getting quite close as long as you keep your movements slow and gaze down.

A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food.  Cats love the chicken or turkey.  The jar is very small with a blue label.  The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices.  I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I  offered it on a spoon.  When working with young ferals or kittens, they can often be coaxed to lick this off your fingers.  Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.

10.  Remember that when working with ferals it is often 1 step forward and 2 steps back.  Just take it slow and steady.  Also celebrate the small advancements.

Oh, good news about the vet.  It is always good to have someone who understands her history.  You are both to be commended for taking on this challenge.  A lot of people would not bother.

In such situtation, with daily medication, having them in a crate is often the best solution  You dont need to chase around the room, if nothing else.  And thus, much less stress for her too.

That isnt as bad as it sounds.  There are rescuers / fosterers whom work almost exclusively with using a cage / crate.  One forumite told she had fostered over 12 cats this way, without problems... Tehy become family pets all of them.   So the last line of defence is sometimes not at all a desperate last try, but a fully workable solution in its own right.

I wouldnt choose it as my favorite solution for fostering, but it can be done yes.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. [emoji]128522[/emoji] All this advice is great too, especially the blanket tip! Last night I dropped a blanket on her as she tried to run away. She immediately sat down and let me pick her up. So ointment applied with no spitting, no hissing, and no defecating! Much happier for all involved. [emoji]128522[/emoji]

Good news!  Thanks for sharing.  Lyla is a lucky little kitty!