Sewing machine for a stupid guy?

I need little advice here, you see I got this crazy idea to improve my winter clothing instead of buying new ones that will not last much more than one winter once again.

So I thought sewing machine is needed.

I have used sewing machine 5 minutes about 35 years ago and teacher told me I'm not allowed to touch such machine ever again, don't blame her, but that is all experience I have.

Needles I have used mostly for cleaning car's windshield washer nozzles, so whole process of needle and thread is bit unknown to me.

Nevertheless, I need to try and learn at least something, so I have been looking for sewing machines.

There is an offer of Singer Starlet 6699 for 199 euros at the moment, it comes with manly pink color and 100 programmed stitches, I don't know if I really need that many and with cars I have learned to be cautious anything containing electronics, as those hold evil spirits that sometimes escape with puff of smoke and render electronics useless in process.

As I was shopping for meat, I found out local shop had also sewing machines, there was three models under 100 euros and one for 160 euros, it was Singer Tradition 2259 without too much of computer things, so I carried on home and now I'm thinking maybe I should spend more or maybe that will be ok for simple user like myself?

Where I would need hundred different stitches?

Also I might like to put some insulation material into clothes as well as add/replace some of the fabric with wind stopper fabric, maybe some knee patches and blankets/pillows need to be doing.

So what do you think, should I take machine I got back to shop or should I be fine with simpler machine?


Manly pink machine is this:
http://www.singerco.com/products/2747/6699-i-starlet

Simple machine without scary computer is this:
http://www.singerco.com/products/1567/2259-tradition

That brand is quite popular here so might get some accessories easier than for many other brand machines, but problem is I don't know why I would need accessories, that little I know of this.

I do some sewing, less these days but when my children were little I made clothes for them. Made clothes for me. Recently made reusable shopping bags from animal feed bags. This is just straight sewing. So I'm sure you can do what you have in mind.

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I think you need a simple, basic machine. It should sew forward and reverse. Anything additional is probably not needed for the large majority of your sewing needs.

Before you begin sewing clothing you need to practice on scrap fabric to familiarize yourself with the machine. Different fabrics require different stitch lengths. Heavier fabrics - denim for example - need a different needle than thinner cottons and your wind stopper fabrics. Needles do not last forever, so buy some extras when you buy your machine. Also get a few extra bobbins, the round widget that holds the thread inside the machine.

Does the shop where you bought  will buy the sewing machine offer a tutorial, familiarization session - how to thread machine, how to fill bobbin, how to adjust stitch length, how to adjust tension. Do they offer any basic classes - very worthwhile for you.

Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Do you know if the machine shop has teaching lessons? Some teach you the basics of operating your machine. Before selling you a machine, they should have asked what you wanted to use it for (garmets, decorations and how often you would use it).

Looking at both, they seem like great machines, the manly pink one does have so many stitches it's insane and I don't believe you're going to be using them all... at all 

The tradition seems like a great machine because it's simple enough for your projects.

I would recommend the simpler machine, because you wont' get distracted by the forever question  "what's this for?". I really don't think you need all that much for the fabrics you mentioned. Just be careful in choosing your needles.

Thanks guys, so I think I keep machine I got and spend extra to needles, bobbins and training fabrics, at least I think that should be correct route.

Shop don't do any teaching, but I can check YT for videos and I think I can find someone who has experience and can tell what to do and what not.

With Tradition machine there came 3 bobbins and 5 needles to get started with, I have plenty of socks with holes in them, so might make cat toys out from those or just sew patches for practice.

@Catapault, cat food companies should hire you as a designer, that looks really nice bag!

I did some reading about sewing machines and at some place they mentioned how with different shoe for machine it would be much easier to make those ends for sleeves etc. Not sure if such is needed at the beginning though as I probably will do everything simple but not so stylish way until I learn to be better, if I learn.

Fleece is perhaps most dense material, with around 300 grams for square meter, that I have hopes to sew.

Manual seem to be quite clear with pictures, but also manual tells how thread, fabric etc. affect to correct setting so I guess I need to learn to adjust by mistake to thread and fabric, will be interesting as learning new always is.

Manual does give some pointers and starting point, so it does not seem much different from adjusting a mig welder, but of course molten metal is not part of sewing

Also there seem to be guide of which kind of needle is needed for which kind of fabric.

Cat toys from socks - Stuff foot part with rags, not too tight. Tie so stuffing is kept in foot part of sock. Cut the ribbed part that goes over your ankle in thirds, lengthwise, then braid. Either tie very tightly at end of braid or stitch closed.

Issue with fleece is not density but fluffiness. Won't take long to learn how to manage it.

Get some old, too worn to bother repairing shirts or shorts or whatever and practice sewing on that. Don't need very big pieces - hand size will do to start. You are just learning how to guide fabric through, comfortable speed (moderate to slow better than fast.)

A free-arm machine is good if you are sewing many pant legs or shirt sleeves. Take it slow and careful and you can manage without.

Another non-clothing thing I have made is a knitting needle storage roll - opened up flat it has three rows of open-at-the-top compartments for different sizes of knitting needles. Fold over the top flap, roll up, tie - and a nice way to store them, keeps everything together without losing one of a pair. I made something similar from old blue jeans for my husband to safely store his wood chisels.

Like anything else there will be a learning curve. Unlikely to scorch yourself - no molten metal, don't need a welder's helmet either! - and if you take it slow and careful you won't stitch through your fingernail either (that was what I was so afraid of doing when I first used a sewing machine!)

Your machine is fine. What you need to do is take some sewing lessons Once you know how to sew you can sew on any machine.

Here is my sewing machine. It was bought by my Mom in March 1964.  It's a Singer 411. That one and the Singer 431 were made in limited quantities in Germany in 1964 and 1965.  Both of these machines were considered "industrial" so they were made to last. These 2 machines are the best machines that Singer has ever made.  Mine is in a sewing cabinet with 4 drawers. And over all that time it has cost me exactly $65 in repairs.  In 1990 I had it cleaned and purchased a new presser foot as the original had been worn completely smooth from long term use.

I have all of the attachments for it, including a ruffler that I can make drapes with.

The last time I used a regular sewing machine was back in middle school home ec class. We had to make these pillows an mine was supposed to be a phone. A yellow one. It ended up looking like an unidentifiable yellow blob with some felt buttons sewn on it in no order whatsoever. Yeah. it was a touch tone phone. This was in the early 80's. I think I ended up getting a D and only because the teacher felt sorry for me because I sewed my index finger. 

Then came the "Handy Stitch" many years later 2005 ish i think? It was one of those as seen on TV things. DH and I saw it on TV and figured that even WE could handle that. We bought some fabric to make a couple of pillowcases. Nothing too big. Wen ended up finding one in Walgreens. It turned out to be a massive piece of caca. It was so flimsy and all the stitches fell out immediately. It was back at the store less than 12 hours after we bought it. Haven't tried sewing since. 

My MIL ended up making the pillowcases on her sewing machine. 

Hey good for you! I taught myself to sew, too. Wish I had YouTube back then 'cause I destroyed a lot of fabric learning...

My two cents: keep the machine you have and start sewing a straight line on scrap fabric. Practice until you feel you have control over it. You don't need to use all the stitches on the machine just because they are there, use a simple straight stitch.

You can use a universal needle to get started, but for things to be easy and work the best, you will need the proper needle for the fabric you are using. There are two main types of needles: those for knits and those for woven fabrics. Knit fabrics are those that have some stretch such as fleece and t-shirt material. With woven fabrics you can see the orderly weave of the threads, like in sheets, jeans, dress shirts, curtains, and woven fabrics don't have much or any stretch. Each type of needle has different sizes, the larger number for the thickest fabrics. (For example, you would probably use a #11 light woven needle for windstop fabric, a #14 heavy woven needle to put a patch on some jeans, and a #11 knit needle to hem a t-shirt.)

Always launder washable fabrics before sewing them. For practice fabrics, I recommend a second-hand store. Follow instructions exactly for threading the machine and winding the bobbin. For me, the trickiest part  of sewing is getting the thread tension right - but your manual will show you how to adjust the top and bottom threads. You probably won't need the sleeve arm on the machine unless you start making dress shirts.

I'm excited for you, hope you have fun with it! There are lots of knowledgeable people here, so post more questions if you have them.

Good thing in sewing machine is that needle goes up and down just by rotating that wheel at one end of machine, so thing does not rush me too much

I think I'm learning something here, if machine makes sound, but needle does not do it's thing, pushing more pedal is not perhaps the answer?

Upper thread kept getting cut when I did reverse at the end and then sew normal direction again.

Making proper folds to fabric seem to be bit challenging too, I easily ended up too thick patch and it did not fit too well under the shoe, maybe there is adjustment I have not yet learned.

I don't think that I had proper thread, it was very thin, general purpose thread it says on package, I saw also machine thread, maybe I should get that.

JTbo said:

I think I'm learning something here, if machine makes sound, but needle does not do it's thing, pushing more pedal is not perhaps the answer?

Upper thread kept getting cut when I did reverse at the end and then sew normal direction again.

Making proper folds to fabric seem to be bit challenging too, I easily ended up too thick patch and it did not fit too well under the shoe, maybe there is adjustment I have not yet learned.

I don't think that I had proper thread, it was very thin, general purpose thread it says on package, I saw also machine thread, maybe I should get that.

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- If the needle is not moving, you may have some thread problems on the bobbin and the cart is getting stuck. Inspect for any type of obstruction. Pushing the pedal more will not help, since the pedal controls speed, if you push a little, the needle should move slowly, if you push a lot the needle will move very very fast (which is not always recommended since you could overheat the machine or break the needle)

- If the upper thread is getting cut, there may be too much tension on the sewing machine, try to lower it and see if it helps. If there is not too much tension, as you mentioned, the thread may be too weak OR it could be old thread. Old thread snaps very easily since it looses it's strength over time.

 - If you're using fold for something, it's best if you iron in the lines before sewing. So fold the fabric, iron and then sew the pieces together

I've liked crafts since I was a very small child so I've been hand sewing since I was about 6 years old and only about a year ago took up machine sewing, so anyone has anything else to add, please feel free.  

SwampWitch said:

Hey good for you! I taught myself to sew, too. Wish I had YouTube back then 'cause I destroyed a lot of fabric learning...

My two cents: keep the machine you have and start sewing a straight line on scrap fabric. Practice until you feel you have control over it. You don't need to use all the stitches on the machine just because they are there, use a simple straight stitch.

You can use a universal needle to get started, but for things to be easy and work the best, you will need the proper needle for the fabric you are using. There are two main types of needles: those for knits and those for woven fabrics. Knit fabrics are those that have some stretch such as fleece and t-shirt material. With woven fabrics you can see the orderly weave of the threads, like in sheets, jeans, dress shirts, curtains, and woven fabrics don't have much or any stretch. Each type of needle has different sizes, the larger number for the thickest fabrics. (For example, you would probably use a #11 light woven needle for windstop fabric, a #14 heavy woven needle to put a patch on some jeans, and a #11 knit needle to hem a t-shirt.)

Always launder washable fabrics before sewing them. For practice fabrics, I recommend a second-hand store. Follow instructions exactly for threading the machine and winding the bobbin. For me, the trickiest part  of sewing is getting the thread tension right - but your manual will show you how to adjust the top and bottom threads. You probably won't need the sleeve arm on the machine unless you start making dress shirts.

I'm excited for you, hope you have fun with it! There are lots of knowledgeable people here, so post more questions if you have them.

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That is very useful to know about those needles, thank you!

I have one old bag sheet for blanket, I don't know proper english term for it, but you put blanket into that, it is too short for any of my blankets, it is not very thick fabric, but maybe it is better to start with something not too thick. That is at least 30 years old too.

Anyway that gives me quite a lot of practice pieces, so I probably don't need to start buying practice material yet.

Pin needles are something I need to get, at least I would think it would be easier if something would keep fold in place on longer pieces.

I start to have more trousers with hole in knee than without too, some are almost like new, but I have managed to hit my knee to something that has punched a hole, no point to buy new ones if I can patch those.



Thread tension might be bit challenge to get right, it took me a while to get instructions and understand how to set lower thread tension, but after I realize the gap where thread had to go trough, it was quite simple, however different fabric and thread needs different tension I read from manual too. Straight stitch did not came out too well, one of the strongest / most complicated seemed to work better, might be tension issue.

At least I got it to work, must study a bit so that I understand what I need to learn



@MagiksGirl, thanks, I think it is perhaps the thread, not sure of course, but I bought pack of 12 different colors and it did cost almost nothing, had some needles with it too, so maybe it is just not for machine use. However I might test a little with tension and see what it does, somehow upper thread does not come out quite smooth in my opinion, it kind of gets loaded like spring and then roll starts to run really fast, then again I don't know if that roll should even rotate at all, maybe I have not set holder properly tight?

JTbo said:

@MagiksGirl, thanks, I think it is perhaps the thread, not sure of course, but I bought pack of 12 different colors and it did cost almost nothing, had some needles with it too, so maybe it is just not for machine use. However I might test a little with tension and see what it does, somehow upper thread does not come out quite smooth in my opinion, it kind of gets loaded like spring and then roll starts to run really fast, then again I don't know if that roll should even rotate at all, maybe I have not set holder properly tight?

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Ahhh, the infamous assorted colors + needled pack. We have some of those here and the thread is awful to work with!

I personally use Gutermann thread and I find it to work great. It comes in different materials such as polyester, rayon and cotton depending on your needs. Thread plays an important role in keeping your machine in top shape since it travels through the machinery / gears. If the thread is of a low quality it may very well leave behind lint behind that in time can clog up the gears, this lint / fray also creates friction (not to be confused with "tension"), this friction wears down your machine.

If the upper thread is looping it also may be that tension is too high: http://www.kellyscreativesewing.ca/kellys_advice.htm

MagiksGirl said:

Ahhh, the infamous assorted colors + needled pack. We have some of those here and the thread is awful to work with!

I personally use Gutermann thread and I find it to work great. It comes in different materials such as polyester, rayon and cotton depending on your needs. Thread plays an important role in keeping your machine in top shape since it travels through the machinery / gears. If the thread is of a low quality it may very well leave behind lint behind that in time can clog up the gears, this lint / fray also creates friction (not to be confused with "tension"), this friction wears down your machine.

If the upper thread is looping it also may be that tension is too high: http://www.kellyscreativesewing.ca/kellys_advice.htm

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Good point is that there is so little of each color that I have to buy more very soon, I did 6 or 7 straight lines and half of the black color was used to do that

I did loosen lower thread tension a bit, cut out pigtail that was hanging out from bobbin and played with upper thread tension a bit, also loosened holder that keep thread roll at place so that roll rotates. It seemed to help.

I got loop so that loop got stuck into somewhere where bobbin is, lower thread had that loop, that got someway in way so that needle did not come up, but those adjustments seemed to help with that.

Lower thread tension is bit annoying to adjust as there is this holder for bobbin and there is so tiny screw that I barely see it, very minor adjustments to that screw are needed. It is not perfectly set yet, underside is bit loose and upper side bit tight, but I'm slowly getting hang of what affects to which.

I did practicing what is told in this video, straight line is not too difficult, but avoiding those waves/ripples seem to be more of challenge, fabric I did sew is quite thin:
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Also this Instructable seem to tell things I need to learn:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How...Practicing-Straight-Stitches-Learning-to-Sew/

It is already much easier as thread is not getting cut constantly.

Sometimes I'm still getting needle stuck, what happens is that upper thread gets around axle of bobbin and bobbin holder, sometimes several times so that there is several loops.

I then found on one occasion that bobbin holder had rotated, so maybe I had not placed it well enough.

Lower thread seems to need to be lot tighter than upper thread in order to have straight and not loose stitch, but tight lower thread tension seem to cause bit more of needle stuck issues.

After last adjustments I could again do quite many runs without an issue, I did combine two fillings of pillow to one pillow and got usable pillow, I can now try to find duck feathers for other pillow to get really good pillow, that will not fail so quick.

JTbo said:

Sometimes I'm still getting needle stuck, what happens is that upper thread gets around axle of bobbin and bobbin holder, sometimes several times so that there is several loops.

I then found on one occasion that bobbin holder had rotated, so maybe I had not placed it well enough.

Lower thread seems to need to be lot tighter than upper thread in order to have straight and not loose stitch, but tight lower thread tension seem to cause bit more of needle stuck issues.

After last adjustments I could again do quite many runs without an issue, I did combine two fillings of pillow to one pillow and got usable pillow, I can now try to find duck feathers for other pillow to get really good pillow, that will not fail so quick.

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All three problems sound like the bobbin / bobbin casing are not in exactly right.  Check your manual again and make sure the bobbin thread is facing the correct way, also you might have to put the bobbin in and give it a little turn or push to seat it correctly - the manual will show you.

One trick to adjusting tension - sometimes you don't want to tighten the loose side; instead try loosening the tight side. 

SwampWitch said:

All three problems sound like the bobbin / bobbin casing are not in exactly right.  Check your manual again and make sure the bobbin thread is facing the correct way, also you might have to put the bobbin in and give it a little turn or push to seat it correctly - the manual will show you.

One trick to adjusting tension - sometimes you don't want to tighten the loose side; instead try loosening the tight side. 

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It seems that leaving lower thread tension lower helps with getting stuck issue, then indeed lowering upper thread tension makes things balanced, I don't know if it really matters if lower thread is bit looser than manual states, it seems to sew just fine what I can see (not much).

Bobbin casing is bit of weird, it is not quite exact, when it is on place there is certainly little play, also it does not make clear click when on place, so it is easy not to push enough deep and then it is not locked to position. I read that some others are having issues with bobbin too, it might be that it requires one to be very careful.


Fixed two pants and gloves today with the machine, other pants were cycling pants, those have lycra so it is quite flexible, I used flexible stitch for those, similar that those had originally. Then I forgot that I had bright orange bottom thread as I wanted to see better bottom and top from each other, now I have nice bright orange sewing in black bicycle pants, contrast is wonderfully bright, but perhaps some other place might be more appropriate for such nice color.

Really easy to fix those, if expectations for looking nice is not too high, might not pass any standards though

Here is quite comprehensive guide to thread tension:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4302/understanding-thread-tension

Following guide in link step by step I managed to get much nicer stitch quality. Not sure how issues with upper thread getting stuck into bobbin axle will manifest themselves, but it might of been just that bobbin casing needs to be pushed firmly to bottom, it can feel to be properly set in, but in fact is not, so hopefully it was only because of that.

I made hammock for cats from old sheet, it is bit over 2 meters (6 feet) long. I had to sew quite many times from one end to another as I made kind of channels for cords which I used to hang that hammock near ceiling.

Run almost out of black thread, 100 meters in not very much it seems.

Then I made reflecting yellow cat eyes to my backpack, I had old reflecting material which I cut and sewed from edges so it stays together and after that I did hand sew those to backpack. Iris was made from bicycle inner tube rubber as it was black and was easy to glue on flexible plastic surface of reflector material.

It is quite nice looking at least from distance.

Great thing is that machine has been working without any issues now, pedal is bit poor though, it is difficult to start sewing slow pace, but I don't have other complains about machine really.


There is some free patterns, I like that hat / balaclava wind stopper fleece might be nice for that, it might be bit warmer than what I can get locally:
http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/designs.php

There is other patterns too, from some they ask money, but I'm considering buying few as I want to make waterproof gloves.

edit: fixed link to list of patterns.

I've always had a tough time with gloves. I've sewn two pairs, both for cosplay so they didn't even have to be perfect or anything. The gloves took as much time to sew (it seemed) as the rest of the cosplay. It's those freakin' fourchettes between the fingers. For waterproof gloves you will also need to seal all the seams, and gloves have a lot of those. I'm not trying to discourage you, just a warning.

I think it's wonderful that you are making and repairing so many items. Do you do this all the time? Just jump into something new and master it? 

SwampWitch said:

I've always had a tough time with gloves. I've sewn two pairs, both for cosplay so they didn't even have to be perfect or anything. The gloves took as much time to sew (it seemed) as the rest of the cosplay. It's those freakin' fourchettes between the fingers. For waterproof gloves you will also need to seal all the seams, and gloves have a lot of those. I'm not trying to discourage you, just a warning.

I think it's wonderful that you are making and repairing so many items. Do you do this all the time? Just jump into something new and master it? 

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I am aware of gloves being difficult, for me all those small things are difficult as I'm clumsy and my eyes are not so great as they used to be, so it will be a challenge!

Everything I can do I have learned by myself, I rarely learned anything at schools, got bored too easily, being an aspie is not all bad, I can figure out pretty much anything just by examining it.

For example forming axe handle from block of wood, bicycle repairs and modifications, computer programming and repairing, baking, cooking, house construction work and so on.I rarely read any manuals, it seems often easier to test what happens and learn that way or just eyeball it, usually much faster too.

Last weekend I did help to repair some farming equipment as neighbor had issue with one machine, I just had to look it for a moment and I figured out how it works and how to make it better. Yesterday he was quite happy as when he tested machine it did work much better than before. Such things just happen, I don't really know how, but I have always kind of seen how things work, sometimes it takes few tries though.

But things that are purely on theoretical side are sometimes (not always) very hard to get, so I prefer mechanical things over electronics in general, that is why I kind of like this sewing machine as it is so easy to understand.

I doubt I can make much of pretty things with it, because I'm bit clumsy and half inch there or here looks same to me, but if it works, it is just fine by me.

I find myself looking outlet and sale baskets with different eye now, cheap fleece blanket makes many hats and so on



At weekend I also did go trough old shop's warehouse when looking for pin needles, there was old wooden table that had money drawer in it, which has kind of combination lock, there is rods you have to press in right combination for drawer to open, it took few attempts but got it open, there was few 60 years old coins, but nothing I was looking.

I have many buckets of old buttons it seems, some metal zippers and I found 5 pin needles, also some sewing equipment which I don't know what they are, but around 70 years old if part with date is from same equipment.

Not very skillfully made, but they reflect so they work.

I don't know which these are used, around 70 years old things, one needle is missing from middle one. My guess is they are for carpet making or something like that, but I think there should be more parts?