Cats and a new puppy

I just picked out a puppy. I get to bring him home in a week.
I have 2 cats, who are 10 months, and 7 months old. We have had them since September, and November. They were both young when they were introduced, and they got along well from the start. My younger cat was in a home with dogs, but he was just a few months old when we got him so I don't know if he remembers.
Right now the puppy is smaller than the cats, and he is in a home with cats so. Not worried on his part. But how should I go about introducing him to the cats so they will be friendly with each other?

The best way to introduce cats to puppies is by having the puppy in a dog crate, if you can get one.  Or you can use a baby gate to separate the cats from the puppy, until they get accustomed to each other's smells, and presence in the home. Basically, you start off with doing scent swapping, as you do with cats, getting the animals used to each other's scents.

It's a bonus, that your younger cat was in a home with dogs, and that your new puppy is in a home with cats, because they may both not have much initial fear of each other.  However, you still have to closely watch the cats, and I would suggest doing the 'cat to dog' introductions slowly, and watching the cats' behaviour.  You're trying to avoid the cats scratching the puppy, but also avoiding the puppy running at, and frightening the cats.

I had to keep my puppy (lab/retriever mix) in a crate, and then in a cordoned off area, then later in a larger room with a baby gate in the doorway, until the puppy was calm enough, not to go wildly chasing the cats. My cats were older, though, being 12 and 1 year, at the time, and both had grown up with dogs, but still did not appreciate any puppy trying to chase and play with them constantly.  As the puppy was growing, I kept him on a long training leash, so that I could control him, and not allow him to just chase the cats. (The older cat did bop the puppy on the nose, because he got too close, which surprised me, since I didn't think the older cat would mind the puppy, but this taught me to start from the beginning, and keep them separated until the puppy and cat were more settled.)

It will also depend on the breed of your dog, and the puppy's personality.

There are some good Articles, here on TCS...where they give some good tips in doing introductions.  In one of the Articles, I don't actually agree with everything, but you often have to read things, and take only those things that you find helpful.  They are located here, and are not that long.

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/caring-for-cats-and-dogs

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/introducing-cats-to-dogs

http://www.thecatsite.com/atype/45/Cat_Care

A dog crate is a great idea, and not just from the cats' perspective. Be sure to pick one the right size for the pup when he's fully grown - better to be too big than too small. When we've brought puppies home we've crated them overnight for quite some time - at least until teething is finished. This stops the pup getting into trouble and causing havoc overnight, and also let's the cats know that they can safely roam at night without running into the puppy.

Crate intros are a good idea, but a simple a leash can work well too. IMO, it's no bad thing for the cats to hit the puppy a occasionally in the beginning - its the quickest way of teaching the dog that cats are not to be messed with.

Also, consider where the cats are fed - they need to know that they can eat in peace, so puppy has to be crated or shut out at these times, or the cat food has to be out of puppy's reach. Eventually, he'll be trained to leave the cat food alone, but it takes time. Cat food is still the ultimate doggy treat in this house though - no dog can be perfect 100 % of the time.

Training from the beginning is important anyway, but is even more so when cats are involved. Decide now what the rules and boundaries are, and remember that behaviour that's cute in a puppy can be an absolute menace in an adult dog. Be strict and firm, and remember that it's far easier to relax boundaries later on that it is to tighten them.

Columbine said:

A dog crate is a great idea, and not just from the cats' perspective. Be sure to pick one the right size for the pup when he's fully grown - better to be too big than too small. When we've brought puppies home we've crated them overnight for quite some time - at least until teething is finished. This stops the pup getting into trouble and causing havoc overnight, and also let's the cats know that they can safely roam at night without running into the puppy.

Crate intros are a good idea, but a simple a leash can work well too. IMO, it's no bad thing for the cats to hit the puppy a occasionally in the beginning - its the quickest way of teaching the dog that cats are not to be messed with.

Also, consider where the cats are fed - they need to know that they can eat in peace, so puppy has to be crated or shut out at these times, or the cat food has to be out of puppy's reach. Eventually, he'll be trained to leave the cat food alone, but it takes time. Cat food is still the ultimate doggy treat in this house though - no dog can be perfect 100 % of the time.

Training from the beginning is important anyway, but is even more so when cats are involved. Decide now what the rules and boundaries are, and remember that behaviour that's cute in a puppy can be an absolute menace in an adult dog. Be strict and firm, and remember that it's far easier to relax boundaries later on that it is to tighten them.

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Thank you, I plan to get a crate to use at night anyway, and for the few times we won't be home, I will probably keep it in my room....cats aren't allowed in my room because they climb all over the laundry bars I keep in there and knock down my clothes! That way at night they get a break from each other. I've also been thinking about the food thing. I may either crate the puppy when I feed the cats, or move their bowls into the laundry room,and feed everyone at the same time. The cats get 3-4 small meals and he dog will probably get 3.
I've been looking up a lot of info online in regards to training him, when I was younger we had 2 dogs, the first was a little trained but still had
It's of bad habits, the 2nd dog knew how to sit and that was about it! He barked and jumped and did whatever he wanted. I hope to have a well behaved pup this time. I'm going to pick out a few different treats to use when he is good, and have my kiddos help give treats when he does good things also.

With the cats I kept them apart for a few days then I came home and mil was babysitting and they were locked in the same room! Thankfully they got along well. I'm crossing my fingers this intro will go smoothly also.

Puppy to cat introductions are usually more straightforward than cat to cat introductions...just so long as the puppy isn't allowed to treat the cats as toys

I strongly suggest you find a good puppy training class in your area - they're invaluable for socialisation as well as basic training. The one I went to was 10 sessions (one a week). It's not a huge commitment, but can really set you and your puppy on the right track. Treats are great, but be sure he learns not to snatch - for the kids it might be safer for them to put them in front of him - you don't want fingers getting mistaken for treats

Some of the best (and cheapest) treats are things like plain cooked meat or poultry. Sausages or hot dogs are usually special favourites - I keep them back for 'jackpot' treats for especially good behaviour. Treats for training want to be pretty small - generally a lot of treats are given when teaching new behaviours, and if the treats are too big you can end up with a fat puppy in no time!

Once he's a little older (12-14 weeks up) a Kong (the original kind, but be sure to pick the right size for your pup, and remember to start with the 'puppy' version) is a great tool to keep him out of trouble. Get the Kong and stuff it with his food (this comes out of his daily ration). If you feed wet food, use it as it is. If you feed dry, soak it in hot water to achieve a porridge like consistency. When you've stuffed the Kong, bag it up and freeze it for a few hours (or even overnight). Remove it from the freezer and serve. It'll take puppy quite some time to get all the food out, and most dogs love the challenge. Result - you have a stimulated, fully occupied puppy who'll stay out of trouble...at least until the food runs out We used to give Leah a Kong of food in her crate if we had to go out for a bit. She'd get really excited to go into her crate, and wouldn't have time to fret that we'd all gone out. The Kong is even more appealing if you smear some peanut butter (or spreadable cheese, or meat paste - whatever puppy likes best) on the base to 'seal' the food in. It gets them extra motivated to get stuck in. You can even add little bits of treats (especially plain meat or cheese) as you stuff the Kong...makes things even more interesting for puppy.

I'd recommend that you trim both cats' claws, beforehand, before the actual first 'face to face' cat-to-puppy meeting.  (You're probably already doing the claw trimming, since you mentioned your kids, and cats  can have quite sharp claws.)

One of my friend's employer's cat, scratched the eye of their new puppy, and they had to bring the puppy to the vet.  The puppy was fine, but needed eye drops.  It was more accidental, she said, because the pup got overly excited, ran up the stairs, and wanted to sniff the cat too quickly. 

If you can keep the cats higher up, or have places where they can escape to, and feel safe from the puppy on the floor, ..that would also help.  Cat trees, or side tables are great.

Like @Columbine mentioned, the cats need a safe and 'peaceful place to eat', and  you'll also have to train your new puppy to leave their litter, and litterbox-area alone.  (puppies think litterboxes are made for playing in, and love to dig and make a mess.  Somehow, the puppy's nose finds the litter box faster than new kittens do.) 

Good Luck !    I think you will have a lot of fun times ahead with your extended fur family.       

cat nap said:

I'd recommend that you trim both cats' claws, beforehand, before the actual first 'face to face' cat-to-puppy meeting.  (You're probably already doing the claw trimming, since you mentioned your kids, and cats  can have quite sharp claws.)

One of my friend's employer's cat, scratched the eye of their new puppy, and they had to bring the puppy to the vet.  The puppy was fine, but needed eye drops.  It was more accidental, she said, because the pup got overly excited, ran up the stairs, and wanted to sniff the cat too quickly. 

If you can keep the cats higher up, or have places where they can escape to, and feel safe from the puppy on the floor, ..that would also help.  Cat trees, or side tables are great.

Like @Columbine
mentioned, the cats need a safe and 'peaceful place to eat', and  you'll also have to train your new puppy to leave their litter, and litterbox-area alone.  (puppies think litterboxes are made for playing in, and love to dig and make a mess.  Somehow, the puppy's nose finds the litter box faster than new kittens do.) 

Good Luck !    I think you will have a lot of fun times ahead with your extended fur family.  aw:   :cat:  

 

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Actually my cats are so mellow toward my kids. My 2 (almost 3) year old will use them as a pillow on the couch and the cats don't even move, and she will hold them like babies. My other two pick them up and carry them around. The only think they don't like is when my youngest tries to keep them in her room and put them under her blanket, but they just run away they don't scratch. I think my son has had a few tiny scratches from trying to play with a toy, but that's all.
But one of them is tearing up my shower curtian trying to climb it. So I was looking up how to trim nails today, but I wasn't sure if I needed special trimmers or if I could use regular nail clippers.

cat nap has a great point about the litterbox. Leah adored eating the cats' poop when we got her - disgusting, I know. It took a long time to train her out of it. It proves that the second most important command a puppy needs to learn is 'no' ('come' is the most important, obviously).

kitcatmeow said:

Actually my cats are so mellow toward my kids. My 2 (almost 3) year old will use them as a pillow on the couch and the cats don't even move, and she will hold them like babies. My other two pick them up and carry them around. The only think they don't like is when my youngest tries to keep them in her room and put them under her blanket, but they just run away they don't scratch. I think my son has had a few tiny scratches from trying to play with a toy, but that's all.
But one of them is tearing up my shower curtian trying to climb it. So I was looking up how to trim nails today, but I wasn't sure if I needed special trimmers or if I could use regular nail clippers.

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Oh no, not the shower curtain tearing incident.  That definitely brings back memories.  We had to buy dollar store curtains, until the kitten went out of his climbing phase.  I think they like the sound of the curtain, or maybe it's just fun to climb.

I use the plier-type nail trimmer, because I find them easier to use, have a good grip, and very sturdy.  I would NOT recommend the guillotine or regular clippers, because they seemed to 'crush' the nail, as opposed to getting a clean cut. These are similar to mine: 
  There are some excellent Youtube videos, if you do a google search, but a lot of the cats in them seem to be the most docile, easy going cats, that I have ever seen.  My cat hates to have his nails trimmed.  He growls and rumbles.  The younger cat was better, and I read from an advisor here, that if you start them younger, with just patting their paws, and getting them used to touching, gently pressing on the top of the paws, that cats are more likely to not mind the trimming later.  (I now just try to remain calm, do it when they are sleepy, and give treats later.  And if they growl or complain, I stop, and trim another day.  Sometimes, I manage only the front paws, and back paws on another day.) 

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2011/09/27/trimming-cats-nails.aspx     I find this video very helpful.

http://www.thecatsite.com/products/category/claw-care     And of course, the Reviews Section of TCS is amazing to look at. 

@kitcatmeow   Your cats and kids sound great.  I love it when cats are mellow, and when kids are respectful, and not rough playing with cats.  It's adorable when they all get along, or at least the cats learn to run away from that 'under blanket tent' game.

I forgot to ask, what type of puppy will you be getting?

Columbine said:

@cat nap has a great point about the litterbox. Leah adored eating the cats' poop when we got her - disgusting, I know. It took a long time to train her out of it. It proves that the second most important command a puppy needs to learn is 'no' ('come' is the most important, obviously).

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Actually, @Columbine, it was your posts that got me thinking about all the specific things.  And your tips are really, really useful.  I kind of flaked off on the puppy training, and forgot that the initial first year is so critical to set up good behaviour.  My dog was scared of babies in strollers, because we only took him to dog parks to socialize and play, and forgot to introduce him to all sorts of people. 

Sure, at least your Leah, tried to help you out in the disposal of cats' poop.    Not good, but better than my pup just throwing litter all over the place.

Actually, I think the most important command would be "No" , then "sit", "stay" and "lie/down".  But maybe you're right, since puppies get so distracted at times, and wander off in all directions.  Once they know their name, and basic commands, then we animal companions are so proud, and life is so much easier.   

I say 'come' because it can literally save puppy's life. Just think - pup gets out and heads towards a road...there's a car coming... get the picture? Also, I don't know about America, but in the uk it's standard practice for dogs to be off lead in parks etc (basically - on the pavement = on lead; open space = off lead). A friend was walking my greyhound for me not long after I got him. She knew his recall wasn't reliable with her, but she let him off anyway. He got onto a main road and was hit by a car...badly. He nearly lost his leg. THAT'S why 'come' is so important.

Columbine said:

I say 'come' because it can literally save puppy's life. Just think - pup gets out and heads towards a road...there's a car coming... get the picture?

Also, I don't know about America, but in the uk it's standard practice for dogs to be off lead in parks etc (basically - on the pavement = on lead; open space = off lead). A friend was walking my greyhound for me not long after I got him. She knew his recall wasn't reliable with her, but she let him off anyway. He got onto a main road and was hit by a car...badly. He nearly lost his leg. THAT'S why 'come' is so important.

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Yes, I get your meaning of the 'come' command, now.  But over here, in Canada, all dogs have to be on leash, unless in 'dog parks' which are usually fenced in.  I do walk my dog on country gravel roads, too, and let him off leash there, and in forests/parks, when no one is around, or in open spaces for frisbee or ball throwing/retrieving. 

We use the command "no" followed by "stop" as a freeze command, and "come" or "come on", "come here" as the Recall command. 

Oh, your poor greyhound.  I know that accidents can happen in split seconds.  Your friend probably didn't even realize that a lot of dogs are not 'car smart' or 'road smart'.

My own dog, lab/retriever mix, is also very dopey around cars.  I nearly ran over him, backing up, because he decided to lay right behind my dad's van, while we were working on the engine.  I was tired, and thankfully, very slow, and my dad is the one who noticed him laying there.  Gave me a good wake-up call, to always be careful when backing up.  A friend told me to get a string of empty cans, and try to scare the dog like that, but I would have to have another person drive up, since he is too familiar with our own cars' sound.

Pixie's accident had nothing to do with being 'road smart' - its not unheard of for a greyhound running flat out it literally run into a tree! Some have died that way My friend just wasn't thinking. Thank god for insurance!

Leah has a 'freeze' command too - we were taught to use the 'down' command (the idea being that 'down" means 'down' no matter how far away the dog is...worked for us )

Our shower curtain didn't cost much, but it is new. So we have been keeping the bathroom door closed, but my oldest child and my husband can't remember to close the door!