Steroid alternatives for rodent ulcers

afoolstale

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In late December, I noticed my cat's lip was swelling. It started as a small cut, which I think was caused by a turkey bone, and got bigger after I started putting stuff on it. I finally looked it up on the internet and saw it was a rodent ulcer. The first week into January she had irritated it to the point it was bleeding. I was snowed in and couldn't get to a vet, but I managed to keep her from licking it and making it worse. (Not an easy task.) 

After seeing all the side effects that the steroid shots could cause, I was afraid to try it. Plus, I've read many posts where people said they don't work anyway. So, I searched for an alternative and found a post where someone said Oxyfresh Pet Gel was good for it. I bought some and it seemed like it was getting better. The infected area looked as if it was peeling away, the place was getting smaller and the puffiness was leaving her lip. And then, nearly two weeks ago, I came down with a horrible rash, which turned out to be a severe allergic reaction to aloe. (Even my lips and throat swelled. I'm still on medication.) So now I can't continue to use the product or if I do I can't be anywhere near the cat, which is impossible.

What else can I use? I saw posts about people using salmon oil capsules and Lysine. I've not heard of either. Could someone tell me what kind I need, link me to the product, or tell me something else that might work? I feel like giving up.

Also, what does the ulcer look like when its starting to heal?
 

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My dad has a cat with the eosinophillic granuloma, his is a very severe case.  He has started the cat on Lysine and it has probably made 50% improvement in his cat. He is also going to use Microlactin as doing research on this forum got suggestions to try that on him as well.  My dad (retired vet) has tried every remedy known to man on this cat including homeopathic snake venom that was supposed to work.  Also switching your cat to a novel protein diet is supposed to help.
 

burkey

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Rodent ulcer is also known as Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex. There are three ways EGC can present itself. I have a cat with EGC who gets linear tracks of plaque/granuloma down his rear legs and neck area.  It is very important that your cat be seen by a veterinarian for diagnosis. There are many other things that could cause a sore on a cat's lip (lingering infection, dental issue, a benign/malignant growth, etc.). It's important to know for certain what you are dealing with, because treatments will obviously be different.  Have your vet check him out and then go from there depending what the diagnosis is.
 
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afoolstale

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Quote:
 
My dad has a cat with the eosinophillic granuloma, his is a very severe case.  He has started the cat on Lysine and it has probably made 50% improvement in his cat. He is also going to use Microlactin as doing research on this forum got suggestions to try that on him as well.  My dad (retired vet) has tried every remedy known to man on this cat including homeopathic snake venom that was supposed to work.  Also switching your cat to a novel protein diet is supposed to help.
Is this the right kind of Lysine?


I've never heard of Microlactin. Wow, snake venom. I hope he finds something that will work.
 
Rodent ulcer is also known as Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex. There are three ways EGC can present itself. I have a cat with EGC who gets linear tracks of plaque/granuloma down his rear legs and neck area.  It is very important that your cat be seen by a veterinarian for diagnosis. There are many other things that could cause a sore on a cat's lip (lingering infection, dental issue, a benign/malignant growth, etc.). It's important to know for certain what you are dealing with, because treatments will obviously be different.  Have your vet check him out and then go from there depending what the diagnosis is.
I have a very poor selection of vets where I live. One didn't even know what a rodent ulcer was and only started referring to it as one after I said the name. Another vet was an arrogant *beep* who won't consider anything but a steroid shot for rodent ulcers. His attitude was very negative, like it was all a waste of time.
 

burkey

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Ideally, you'll want to try to figure out what is causing your cat's EGC. If you can eliminate the culprit, the EGC can be controlled. It's not always easy, though.  It's important to be methodical, and slowly rule out things in your cat's life. If you change too much all at once, it'll be impossible to pinpoint the cause.

First, it's recommended that you eliminate all plastic food & water dishes. Switch to stainless steel, glass, or ceramic, and keep them meticulously clean.

Flea bite allergy is reportedly the #1 cause behind EGC, and all cats with EGC should be on strict monthly flea preventative, such as Advantage II. One single random flea bite can set it off. That's literally all it takes. There is a minor chance that the flea control product itself, could be what your cat is sensitive to. So at some point further down the line, you may need to try a few months without it, but in the beginning, monthly application is imperative unless you already are aware that your cat has an issue with the product.

If you've already been religiously treating your cat for fleas every month, the next step is to do a food trial. This is done using a food with one novel protein source, and zero grains. Novel protein, is a protein your cat does not normally eat. For most, this would likely be things like rabbit, venison, or duck. Fish, chicken, turkey, etc are not recommended. Ideally, you would use a prescription food from your vet, but if you are very very cautious and selective, you may be able to find a commercially available option. You will feed your cat nothing but this one food for a minimum of 6 weeks, 10 or more weeks is best. No treats, no table scraps, no crumbs accidentally dropped on the floor, nothing else at all. If you slip, the food trial is invalid. The point is to determine if the cause of the EGC is food related. If your cat is EGC symptom free at the end of the trial, you reintroduce their previous food. If the cat becomes symptomatic again, BINGO you know it's the food. You'd then put him back onto the food you used for the trial until his symptoms have completely subsided again. At that point, you can try reintroducing things to his diet, one ingredient at a time, with the hope that you can find things you can use to broaden his dietary selections going forward.

If flea control, and then the strict food trial, do not resolve the EGC symptoms, you are likely looking at an environmental cause. You can try things like switching to dye/scent free laundry detergent, less harsh cleaning supplies, eliminating air fresheners, scented candles, etc. But it could also be things like dust, pollen, mold, etc. which can be difficult to address without prescription medication.

Lastly, it could be an auto-immune issue where the cat's body is reacting to it's own skin as if it is foreign.

Cats can also have more than one allergy (such as to a food and to dust, etc), which complicates figuring it out, also.

When dealing with an environmental allergy such as dust or pollen, etc., an auto-immune disorder, or if you are unable to pinpoint the cause, steroid use will probably be necessary at some points during your cat's life. Oral prednisolone (sp?) is usually preferred, but at times it may be necessary to use injected Depomedrol, etc.  There is one other drug that has had some considerable success, which I believe is called Atopica? Someone else may be able to confirm if I've got that one right.

I've not heard much in the way of lysine being really effective. It can't hurt, and some EGC cats can benefit from it. I have heard however, that increasing the Omega Fatty Acids in your cat's diet can be very beneficial. They are known to help reduce inflammation. Salmon oil used to be the go-to choice, but now Krill oil is preferred.
 
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afoolstale

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Thanks for the reply. I think it could possibly be fleas. I know she is allergic to them. It's been a while since I've used a flea product. I've just been bathing her to get rid of any fleas. Every product I used in the past never worked, so I stopped using them. I've never used Advantage, but I think I will try it. I've read good things about it. I just wish it was a little less expensive.

I'll try flea control first and then try the other stuff you listed if needed. Thank you.
 

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Best of luck! I have heard reports of Frontline being ineffective in many areas of the US now. I haven't heard that yet about Advantage, but it could eventually go that way too I'm sure. It was recommended to me, to use Advantage II, specifically.  I'd say it's a good chance the rodent ulcer/EGC is flea related, if she's had some type of allergic reaction to fleas in the past.
 
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stephanietx

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Use the powdered Lysine.  It's so much easier!  I use either NOW brand or VitaCost brand.  It comes in a 1 lb. jar.  A 1/4 teaspoon equals almost 500mg, so give a heaping 1/4t twice a day in wet food or in a bit of baby food.  It dissolves in water, so if you add a bit of water to the wet food, it will help dilute it and it will dissolve easier.  Be sure to divide the dose so that the lysine stays in the system.  For everyday use, the dose is 500mg a day (250mg 2x day).  For a flare up, the dose is 1000mg a day (500mg 2x day).  I know people who have herpes kitties who get mouth ulcers and they use evening primrose oil in addition to the lysine.  The normal dose is 500mg a day and 1000mg a day when having an ulcer outbreak.  (That's the same dose for the lysine, too!)
 
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afoolstale

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Best of luck! I have heard reports of Frontline being ineffective in many areas of the US now. I haven't heard that yet about Advantage, but it could eventually go that way too I'm sure. It was recommended to me, to use Advantage II, specifically.  I'd say it's a good chance the rodent ulcer/EGC is flea related, if she's had some type of allergic reaction to fleas in the past.
Thanks!
 
Use the powdered Lysine.  It's so much easier!  I use either NOW brand or VitaCost brand.  It comes in a 1 lb. jar.  A 1/4 teaspoon equals almost 500mg, so give a heaping 1/4t twice a day in wet food or in a bit of baby food.  It dissolves in water, so if you add a bit of water to the wet food, it will help dilute it and it will dissolve easier.  Be sure to divide the dose so that the lysine stays in the system.  For everyday use, the dose is 500mg a day (250mg 2x day).  For a flare up, the dose is 1000mg a day (500mg 2x day).  I know people who have herpes kitties who get mouth ulcers and they use evening primrose oil in addition to the lysine.  The normal dose is 500mg a day and 1000mg a day when having an ulcer outbreak.  (That's the same dose for the lysine, too!)
Thank you so much! I will definitely try this.
 

paul jefferies

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Hi all, i have a 14 yr old Devon Rex, she has a Rodent Ulcer in her top lip, its been there for 6 months now, she has had 8 week course of antibiotics a month course of steroid various steroid injections and is now on Atopica which was prescribed by a skin specialist, nothing seems to be working and it seems to be increasing is size slowly, it doesn't seem to bother her very much but when it does as u can imagine it is very distressing, the ulcer has be biopsied which showed no cancerous cells it did show flee and food allergy so we have changed her diet to an anti-allergenic food (HA HYPOALLERGENIC FELINE FORMULA) and she is on ADVOCATE spot on but this is up to date and i have seen a flee or any sign of one for years, any subjection's....     
 

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To AFOOLSTALE:

You've gotten a lot of good suggestions in this forum.  May I add a possible natural treatment for fleas? And some Food & Pain Relief possibilities?

FOR FLEAS  -  BREWER'S YEAST:

Be aware that I NEVER TRIED THIS ON CATS,

but, years ago, when I had my German Shepherd, she would get loaded with Fleas from dogs in the park.  I started giving her Brewer’s Yeast.  I started with a VERY small amount, as giving a lot right away tends to cause Diarrhea. And I built up the amount SLOWLY, day by day.  The body has to adjust to it. 

The fleas DISAPPEARED, and, I kept her on the Brewer's Yeast.  She never got fleas again. 

If you want to try this, I suggest keeping Baby Rice Cereal or Instant Unflavored Potatoes (Betty Crocker has a pretty unadulterated formula) (Or use home-cooked potatoes) around in case your cat does get diarrhea.  Also, check with your vet if the amount of B-Vitamins in the doses of Brewer’s Yeast you would be giving - could be detrimental to your cat.

With my dog, I used Brewer’s Yeast in the form of tablets. (She loved the tablets – I gave them to her as “Treats”.)  I had built her up SLOWLY to 18/day – which I kept as a maintenance level.  (She was 90 pounds!)

[Not only did she NEVER get fleas again – but – she also stopped shedding (Except at shedding seasons). 

This was phenomenol - German shepherds have a heavy undercoat – which, normally sheds tremendously!]

I don’t know the equivalent levels in the powder form (which can easily be added to food).  Many of the Tablet Formulations I am seeing now – have ingredients added that could be risky for cats (and dogs?) – and they may have different amounts of Brewer's yeast in them from the ones I was using.  I also don't remember the mg. contents of what I was using.

Brewer's Yeast MIGHT even work rubbed under the fur.  And – put onto window sills or around doors (I would mix it in water first).  Insects seem to just not like it!

[I think that Brewer’s Yeast may discourage all insects – Maybe even mites (Which are not insects – they’re Arachnids - 8-legged.)]

I think it MAY be the high content of B vitamins in the yeast that does the trick.  But, I wouldn't know dosages of B Vitamins to give, and, high doses of some of the B-Vitamins may not be good for cats.

In any case, I wouldn't give a human formulation of B-Vitamins to cats, as the amounts of B-Vitamins required by cats are different.

FOOD AS POSSIBLY CONTRIBUTING TO THE ONGOING ULCER: 

What do you feed her? 

In the past, several of my cats developed Eosinophic Granulomas - seemingly after eating certain cat foods.  I am much wiser now in choosing good foods!  And, I have never seen the granulomas again.

1, FISH:  Most cat foods contain fish.  (Check ingredients on back label)

Fish is NOT a natural food for cats.  In nature - They don’t hunt in rivers Et Al.  Fish is not digested well in cats – nor metabolized well.  This causes lots of by-products to be released into their blood.  Your cat could be extra-sensitive to fish.

[Fish is especially bad for any animal in kidney failure, as their kidneys have to work harder to clear out the by-products in their blood]

Ocean Fish & Fish Oils also contain a lot of iodine.  Your cat could be sensitive to that. (For Omega 3's - UNSALTED Butter contains lots of Omega 3's. That could be a good alternative. 

Not TOO much, as too much can cause diarrhea)

2. LIVER:  Liver clears out a lot of toxins from the body, so, liver in foods will contain these toxins. 

When I (only) occasionally feed liver or cat food with liver in it to my cats - I use only Organic Liver, or, liver IDENTIFIED as being from Poultry (Poultry don't live very long - less time for liver to accumulate toxins).

3. “MEALS”, “BY-PRODUCTS” in cat foods:  If they’re not specifically identified – they could contain ANYTHING – (eg. Chicken Beaks, Feathers) – and could contain actual remains of dogs/cats that were euthanized – including whatever diseases they may have had – and euthanizing chemicals.

PAIN RELIEF:

1. You might try putting some Colloidal Silver on the ulcer.  It has relieved my pain from chancre sores in my mouth very quickly. And, it is anti-germ (whatever kind of germ it touches).  And, it's not harmful if it's ingested.  (I often use it orally for myself and for my cats).

The best form to use is TRUE Colloidal Silver.  Hard to get in Health Food Stores.

Colloidal Silver is the label put on various forms of silver.  (Read the back ingredient labels!)   I don't use Silver Protein - it is easily contaminated, as it contains organic matter.  I don't use Ionic Silver - It helps - but, it dissipates quickly - because ions dissipate quickly. The only silver I use is TRUE Colloidal Silver - which is a Silver COLLOID - which contains actual particles of silver.  This will not dissipate.  In my opinion - Mesosilver is the best - which I can only find on the internet.  (Don’t shake it – as colloids, by definition, are not “In solution” – they are suspended in water – and can come out of suspension if shaken too much)

2. I have also used 4Life Transfer Factor (Classic Formula) - topically on myself and on my cats.  It also has relieved my pain - and my cats' pain - from Chancre Sores, and helped them heal quickly.  This formula is meant for oral use, but works wonders topically, too. And, although this is a human formula - it can be used cross-species.  This is more costly than Colloidal Silver ($38/bottle of 90 capsules wholesale. You should be able to get it at this price).  Not generally sold in retail stores.  You can get it from the 4Life site - or from a distributor.

[I specify the brand 4Life - because this is the only company I've found with a formulation - that contains ONLY Transfer Factor Molecules with no other additives. It comes in capsule form.  You can open the capsules and apply the powder directly.  (Transfer Factors are the same molecules that are contained in mother's first milk - Colostrum.  It's very safe.)  This company EXTRACTS the Transfer Factor molecules from the colostrum, so the "healing" factors are very concentrated, and no milk is remaining – so it can be used cross-species.)]

Good Luck,

Jackie Page     
 
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animalpal2014

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I must add to my Previous post - regarding Brewer's Yeast: 

If you plan on trying Brewer's Yeast in your cat's food for Fleas - please check with you vet regarding the amount of the various B-Vitamins and other ingredients in Brewer's Yeast -  To make sure you remain within safe levels - in the Dosage of Brewer's Yeast you might be using.

Jackie Page         
 
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afoolstale

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Thank you for the suggestions. I have dogs as well, so that will come in handy. I bought Advantage and it seemed like it was working, but 3 weeks later she was had fleas again. I put it on her a second time and it didn't seem to work. She still had fleas. There's a dog in my house that keeps caring fleas in. A flea solution was also bought for it, but it doesn't seem to work long either. I still have fleas in my house. I live in a wooded area. There's a dog outside that runs freely on the property and goes into the woods and I guess carries them back. I get ignored if I suggest putting up a fence.

I've pretty much given up, tbh. I got another cat 7 weeks ago and the older cat hates it still. She's so mean and hateful now I can barely stand her.  I can't even brush her without her growling. :(  The new cat is mean in a rambunctious way and won't leave her alone. Together they're driving me crazy.
 
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afoolstale

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Also, giving her Lysine made her breathing bad, so I had to stop giving it to her.
 

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To: afoolstale

ANOTHER OPTION?:   I have also read that catnip deters insects.  And, it is very safe (also has other health benefits).  I would suggest rubbing it under her fur - but - this would probably make the other cat even more rambunctious toward her.

[Maybe you could try rubbing it under your dogs' fur to avoid fleas using him/her for transport (Not near the face).  Although if you do give the Brewer's yeast to your dogs – this may do the trick. You’ll know when they’re getting enough –when you don’t see fleas on them any more}

You can add catnip to (only) HER food and water (I would use powdered catnip).

You may want to research catnip to decide for yourself – with your vet or on the internet.  And - you could also, hopefully, get an idea of how much to add to food/water.

Although, like I said, it's really safe. 

RE:  YOUR RAMBUNCTIOUS CAT PROBLEMS:    Please don't lose patience with your older cat.  She has been with you for a while - and considers this HER home and HER territory.  And, you are HER Mommy. 

Cats are territorial.  They know their home environment – and feel safe there.  When a new cat is brought in - the existing cat OFTEN will feel that her territory has been invaded - and will feel threatened.  This is natural. She can't help it. 

[The best way to bring in a new cat - is to keep them separated at first.  This cuts down on the stress for both cats - as they each have their own "safe" territory.  They gradually get used to the other's smell being in their home (Cats are  VERY scent-oriented).  And, they will probably start playing a bit with each other (Under Closed doors, through Cage Wire, etc.)  It may not be too late to do this for your situation.  If you have another room you can put new cat in – you may want to try this.  (If it is only a bedroom - then, if you put new cat in the bedroom - switch them at night.  At night, bring your old cat into the bedroom with you - or she will feel totally rejected if you keep the new cat with you at night, and don't permit her to sleep with you)]

In any case, many older cats just cannot accept the rambunctiousness of younger cats.  They want to be left "In Peace".  And, your older cat is ALREADY probably very stressed already because of pain from the ulcers.

Try to keep your new cat away from her - maybe by use of water pistols (scatter a FEW around - to be readily handy)  - and a large "NO".   Or, by tossing LIGHT mail catalogues at the new cat.  Your older cat will recognize - and appreciate - that you are "protecting" her.

Remember - "LOVE IS PATIENT".  You obviously love your older cat, and, she is going through a lot right now. Don't scold her for her behavior.  She needs REASSURANCE - Soothe her and calm her with your voice and cuddling.  Be EXTRA-kind toward her, kiss her a lot and tell her you love her (especially when she's growling!), and accommodate her. 

Your older cat is the one who should be given preference - and protected.  This is HER home.   The new cat should be able to adjust much more readily than your older cat (eg. to restrictions, less attention).

Remember to give your older cat - a LOT more attention and nurturing than the new cat.

You may want to try giving the new cat some safe calming herbs in her food (Chamomile, Hops, etc).  Check them out thoroughly on the internet first (or with a holistic vet) - for dosages - and any possible risks. 

And/or - maybe, if you put some catnip under your dogs' fur - the new cat may focus her attention on THEM (Not near their faces!) - instead of on your older cat.

If bad vibes continue - you may have to re-home the new cat. Stress can cause cats (especially older ones) - to seriously deteriorate in health (eg. Can even affect thyroid function negatively).  I've had to do this myself - with cats that were just unrelenting on other cats.

[If you must give the new cat up - DON'T bring her to a public shelter - where she will be at risk - of a poor adoption - or of Euthanasia.  Most/many public shelters will automatically euthanize owner turn-ins - as they are not required to keep animals that no one is looking for as lost.  Find a private Rescue Group -  Look on the internet - and ask around.  Check them out carefully - make sure they're Legitimate, that they check homes carefully (Inspect homes, do vet checks, etc) - and, especially - that they will take the cat back if the new home doesn't work out.)]

Good Luck,   Jackie Page      
 
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TO: afoolstale

I have included here – some excerpts from a site I had saved kept regarding Catnip.  This is not from a medical/veterinary site, so you may want to recheck claims with your vet or on the internet.

PLEASE NOTE: I would not use the extracted essential oil, as essential oils are generally toxic/harmful to cats.

Just get the real thing – catnip leaves or powder.  (You can also brew a tea – to spray around.)  Try to get organic catnip.  (It is available on the internet)

Catnip Uses

By Yvonne Van Damme, eHow Contributor , last updated March 13, 2014

Catnip makes most cats quite happy.  Catnip is an herb that is a member of the mint family. It grows throughout Europe and in North America. It is widely known for its euphoric effect on cats. However, catnip has also long been used in alternative medicine as a treatment for many maladies. The young leaves themselves are edible when they are raw. Catnip can also be added to water to make a healing tea.

Catnip is well known as an intoxicant for cats. The ingredient in catnip that has both medicinal benefits for people and recreational benefits for cats is called nepetalactone. When catnip is given to a cat, the cat usually licks, rubs against and then eats it. Sniffing the catnip is what usually gets the cat "high" and stimulates it. The high usually lasts about five to 10 minutes. When the cat eats the catnip, the herb actually sedates instead of exciting.   [So maybe you CAN put it in new cat’s food, too, JP]   Most but not all cats are susceptible to catnip effects.

 

Insect Repellant:   The ingredient nepetalactone also has insect-repellent properties. It can repel fleas from carpeting or furniture, and even pets. In addition, catnip works well to ward off mosquitoes and cockroaches. Per Chris Peterson, with the U.S. Forest Service, nepetalactone is an essential oil that repels the insects. The exact reason insects don’t like it is still unknown.

Cold and Flu     Catnip tea has many medicinal uses. In particular, is useful for colds and flu, especially if there is a fever. The tea will cause increased perspiration without actually raising body temperature, which helps to relieve a fever. In addition, it has sedative properties that help induce sleep, calm the stomach and relieve diarrhea and nausea. It is often used to treat colic and anxiety in children.

This following is from a link I opened on the first site for Catnip Side-Effects;

Catnip Side Effects

By Juniper Russo, eHow Contributor

Catnip, a popular member of the mint family, is commonly used as a psychoactive stimulant for domestic cats. Although few studies have investigated the biological effect that catnip has on cats, it is known to have a few mild side effects in human beings.

Ineffective Results   Only about half of cats actually respond to catnip, and young kittens entirely lack the

   receptors necessary for enjoying the herb. Cats may develop an aversion to catnip if they do not react to its

   psychoactive properties.

Sedative Versus Stimulant Effects           Catnip has a caffeinelike stimulant effect on cats when it is sniffed.

   However, it actually acts as a sedative when it is eaten.

Diuretic Side Effects      In humans, catnip may have mild diuretic effects. Anecdotal evidence has suggested that

  cats exposed to catnip urinate more frequently. [So, I would be careful using it for cats with Kidney problems, JP]

In Pregnancy     The medicinal use of catnip is contraindicated during pregnancy in humans, because it may

   stimulate contractions of the uterus. Catnip should be used with caution for pregnant cats.

Precaution         No reports of cats having serious or life-threatening reactions to catnip exist, but pet owners

   should ask a veterinarian before giving catnip to any animal with a serious medical condition.
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pippen

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My cat had esoni
 
In late December, I noticed my cat's lip was swelling. It started as a small cut, which I think was caused by a turkey bone, and got bigger after I started putting stuff on it. I finally looked it up on the internet and saw it was a rodent ulcer. The first week into January she had irritated it to the point it was bleeding. I was snowed in and couldn't get to a vet, but I managed to keep her from licking it and making it worse. (Not an easy task.)

After seeing all the side effects that the steroid shots could cause, I was afraid to try it. Plus, I've read many posts where people said they don't work anyway. So, I searched for an alternative and found a post where someone said Oxyfresh Pet Gel was good for it. I bought some and it seemed like it was getting better. The infected area looked as if it was peeling away, the place was getting smaller and the puffiness was leaving her lip. And then, nearly two weeks ago, I came down with a horrible rash, which turned out to be a severe allergic reaction to aloe. (Even my lips and throat swelled. I'm still on medication.) So now I can't continue to use the product or if I do I can't be anywhere near the cat, which is impossible.

What else can I use? I saw posts about people using salmon oil capsules and Lysine. I've not heard of either. Could someone tell me what kind I need, link me to the product, or tell me something else that might work? I feel like giving up.

Also, what does the ulcer look like when its starting to heal?
Hoping you find something that helps. For what it's worth, my cat had very serious ulcers on the paws---so bad the lymph nodes in the hind legs were very swollen. The vet gave him steroid and antibiotic injections, and we followed up at home with low dose of steroids for a few weeks. He was a very sick cat, but the treatment really helped and I didn't notice any side effects from the meds.I gave him krill oil for a few months afterwards but didn't do anything else with diet. There's been no recurrance.
 
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  • #18

afoolstale

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animalpal2014, Thanks for the tips. My cat is currently sick. Her third eyelids started showing last week. I thought she had a cold because I had been sleeping with the window open, even though it was cool out. (She slept under the window.) Then she got a diarrhea, but still ate and drank plenty of water. Her eyes started looking better yesterday. The diarrhea went away and she seemed like she was getting better. Today, the diarrhea is back and worse. She's barely eaten anything. She still drinks plenty of water. Her third eyelids still show at times. I'm very worried. I need to get her to the vet tomorrow. I'm just afraid what they will say. I don't want to lose her. :(

Btw, the other cat is a male. He's almost a year old. He was a b-day gift from my sister. He's already been neutered.

Pippen, I hope so too. I'm afraid of the steroid shots because someone said it sent their cat into cardiac arrest. What kind of krill oil? I'm not familiar with it.

I cannot figure out what could have caused it. She's a house cat, She never goes outside. My neighbor's cat had what looked like feline herpes. (Btw, I had never heard of this disease or seen it before. I looked it up online.)  I read that was transmitted through saliva and feces. My cat was never near it. I wouldn't even wear my shoes in the house for fear of tracking it inside. Is it possible the ulcer is somehow related to the herpes virus?
 
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  • #19

afoolstale

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She came down with a bad diarrhea over the weekend so I took her to the vet today. I got the steroid shot while I was there as well. If she's not doing better by Wednesday they're going to test her for leukemia. I hope it doesn't come to that. :(
 

Margret

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At last report, fleas strongly dislike lavender, and it's not poisonous for cats.  (Of course, you should double check that last before trying it.)  Also, I've heard that planting marigolds can keep fleas away.  I saw some lavender plants for sale at Trader Joes a few weeks ago; if Jasmine had a flea problem I would have grabbed them and planted them all around our house.  I'm fortunate in that fleas aren't usually a problem at our altitude (I live in the Denver area).  And I'm sure I saw another plant or essential oil referenced recently online as being anathema to fleas and safe for cats, but I can't remember what.  If I run across it again I'll let you know.

Margret
 
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