Trying to Catch Feral Cat Wont go in Animal Trap-Advice?

ohiokrs

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I have been feeding a feral cat for several months.  I know I will be moving within 6 months (at least that is plan) and am trying to see if I can bring him inside and make him a house cat after a trip to the vet and following some guidelines I saw online that led me to this forum.

The problem is it has been almost a week and he wont go into the trap enough that the latch will be triggered.  I tried slowly moving the food outside of the trap to just inside to further and further inside.  Problem is, furthest he will go is 3/4 which wont trigger the trap to close.

Suggestions????  I need to try bringing him inside now to see if this will work.  I dont expect him to be a warm and fuzzy cuddling housecat...but I do not want to leave him behind either.
 

shadowsrescue

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Welcome to the forums and thank you so much for taking care of this cat.  I see you have tried to feed the cat in the trap while the trap is not triggered.  This is a good start and sometimes will take a while.  Did you cover the bottom of the trap either with newspaper, a blanket or puppy pee pads.  It helps so the cat doesn't see all of the metal.  Also to lure the cat into the trap you want to use really yummy food.  You can even start by dribbling tuna juice onto the newspaper or puppy pad.  If you are using just regular cat food it might not be enough to entice him inside.  Some people have good luck covering the trap half way.  All of the cats I have trapped have not liked the trap covered, but it's worth a try.  Are you placing the trap where you normally feed him and does he see you placing his food inside the trap.  The very first feral I trapped, I fed him for a week in the trap with it not triggered.  He went eagerly inside as he saw me placing it exactly where he always was fed.  A few more questions, can you pet this cat at all?  Does he run when he sees you or does he stay close by? One of the cats I trapped last winter was very familiar with me.  I was able to pet him, but not pick him up.  I was able to sit next to the trap and manually trigger the trap when he went far enough inside.  There is also the option of a drop trap.  You can search online for videos of drop traps. 

As far as bringing the cat inside and making it a house cat will depend on many things.  Is the cat a true feral born cat or a stray cat turned feral.  Do you know if the cat is spayed/neutered?  The cat will need a room of its own where it can feel safe, yet not get stuck somewhere.  If you use a spare bedroom, take the bed up so it cannot get stuck underneath.  Also block all entrances to small spaces.  It's amazing where a cat can fit itself.  Yet also have a safe hiding place such as an old box turned on its side, a cat tree with a hiding box or other cat bedding.  Bringing a feral inside the house can be done, but lots of preparation needs to be done. 

I brought a stray turned feral into my house in late May.  It has been a real transition for all.  It is slow progress. 

Have you been to the Alley Cat Allies site?  They have wonderful videos and explanations on feral cats and trapping.  Ask lots of questions.  We are all here to help!!
 
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ohiokrs

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Thank you so much for your reply!  I am going to try covering the bottom.  I believe he is a feral cat and not a feral turned stray but am not sure. He does not seem to be neutered. He comes about the same time each day starting early evening and sticks his head up against the glass door.  I cannot pet him but he does stay fairly close by when I feed him.  He does not run completely away.

I am concerned about him because he recently showed up with some kind of issue with his head so i was trying to hurry things up to get him to the vet.

I may be crazy for doing this....as I have 3 cats all adopted from either social work visits or drop offs.  I read online about preparing a room etc and think I have a room that is stray ready.

Am I nuts for trying to do this?????
 

shadowsrescue

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Thank you so much for your reply!  I am going to try covering the bottom.  I believe he is a feral cat and not a feral turned stray but am not sure. He does not seem to be neutered. He comes about the same time each day starting early evening and sticks his head up against the glass door.  I cannot pet him but he does stay fairly close by when I feed him.  He does not run completely away.

I am concerned about him because he recently showed up with some kind of issue with his head so i was trying to hurry things up to get him to the vet.

I may be crazy for doing this....as I have 3 cats all adopted from either social work visits or drop offs.  I read online about preparing a room etc and think I have a room that is stray ready.

Am I nuts for trying to do this?????
No you are certainly not nuts, just a very compassionate person who cares about the welfare of this cat.  Just be sure you are prepared.  You will want to keep him separated from your other cats until he see a vet.  Hopefully you can trap him and take him immediately to the vet.  Getting him into a carrier later may be very difficult.  I work closely with my vet and when I had to bring my stray/feral to the vet, they arranged a day and worked him in whenever I could bring him.  If it wasn't possible that day it was ok with them too.  I got him on the given day and he was there for hours as they worked him in between other appointments.  It is often easiest to just take the cat in and have it neutered and examined all at the same time.  It's much less stress on the cat. 

There are also lots of great ideas and articles here on cat to cat introductions when the time is right. 

Keep trying and ask away.  We are here to help.
 
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ohiokrs

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Thank you for your reply! Whenever I trap him I can take him to The local Alley Cat Clinic where they will do it all at once.. The neuter shots, look at his head, flea treatment etc. i will not need an appt they say, bc he is a cat in a trap.

They seem to be familiar with feral cats and have a rescue as well. My normal vet thinks I am crazy but I figured I should at least try.

Im really worried about the heD thing.. I cannot tell if it is a puncture wound or what is going on.. Guess my deck will be smelling like tuna for a while.

I really appreciate the support and advice. I cannot believe he will not go in the trap. Good thing I bought it I guess...
 

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Everyone who knows me on this forum knows what I"m about to recommend :)

We use mackerel on the tough cases (it's in a can in the tuna aisle). For us, cats who wouldn't touch tuna go crazy over it. ShadowsRescue's note is full of great advice. For us, it's a world of difference covering the bottom of the trap - even with newspaper (folded to fit so that it's FLAT). I know Shadows said covering hasn't always worked for her - but so far it has for us. We cover the trap fully (on three sides and top) with a dark towel, and line the trap with newspaper, and start dribbling mackerel juice from out front all the way back to a small can of mackerel. We fix the trap open with a twist tie so they can't trip it. We do that every day (feeding 1-2 times a day) until we see that the cat is going in consistently with no hesitation. Then - and only then - do we undo the twist tie so that the trap is set. Once we set the trap - we don't leave so that we can run in and make sure the trap is fully latched, and pull the towel all the way down. 

We've also done a drop box technique - so don't worry, there are other options!

But that's just how we do it - everyone has their techniques, and cats/experience vary!

As far as bringing in the feral cat - I think it's wonderful you want to  - very, very admirable. Just be prepared for a slow road - 2 steps forward and all that rot. Make absolutely sure that the cat has a "safe room" that he can start his first weeks/months in. I'd even make sure you have a carrier in there for him to "den" in. If you catch him - lots of people on this site can help you once you get him in.

Good luck!!!!!!!
 

shadowsrescue

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Thank you for your reply! Whenever I trap him I can take him to The local Alley Cat Clinic where they will do it all at once.. The neuter shots, look at his head, flea treatment etc. i will not need an appt they say, bc he is a cat in a trap.

They seem to be familiar with feral cats and have a rescue as well. My normal vet thinks I am crazy but I figured I should at least try.

Im really worried about the heD thing.. I cannot tell if it is a puncture wound or what is going on.. Guess my deck will be smelling like tuna for a while.

I really appreciate the support and advice. I cannot believe he will not go in the trap. Good thing I bought it I guess...
That's great you have a clinic that will take care of all his needs.  I did that with all 4 of my ferals.  It's great not needing an appointment as long as they are in a trap.  My regular vet would have done the neuters, shots and exams, but she also would have charged me 10x the amount!  It's also best going to a clinic that is familiar with ferals.  Have you considered whether you will get the cat ear tipped or not?  I tipped all of mine even though one is now in the house.  It will allow others to know the cat has been neutered. 

As kitty chick suggested mackerel or I also used sardines work really well.  Definitely try covering the trap on 3 sides and if you do trap the cat, quickly cover it all the way.  If you trap at night and must wait until the next morning, make sure you have a safe warm place to put the cat.  I had to keep one of my ferals in my basement overnight.  I made sure I lined the floor with an old shower curtain liner as well as cheap puppy pee pads. 

If you do decide to try and socialize/tame the cat, a safe room for months is a must.  Also think about the litter box.  He is used to going outside so you can either mix the litter with dirt or get some Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract.  When I brought my feral/stray into the house he had a bit of a problem using the litter box.  I tried mixing in some soil and he did use it, but the Cat Attract worked better.  You can usually find it with the regular cat litter at most pet stores. 

We all have lots and lots of tips on socializing once you have trapped him and he is inside.  My best advice to make sure the room is really "cat proofed"  I blocked off all entrances under dressers, behind dressers, picked the bed up and put it against the wall, hid the cords on the window blinds and made sure I had baby gates.  I had a very hard time getting into the room without the cat trying to bolt.  I had to put a gate just inside the door so I could get inside and close the door.  I also used a shield (large piece of cardboard) to gently push him back if needed. 

One last piece of advice.  For smooth transitions once he is inside, you might want to get a feliway diffuser.  Also look into flower essences.  You can use Rescue Remedy or take a look at Jackson Galaxy's Spirit Essences.  He has one specifically for feral cats called Feral Cat Rehab.  I have used it on all of my ferals.  Composure feline treats or composure liquid max also help to calm the cat.  He may yowl to get out or cry.  My guy tried throwing himself against the windows trying to get outside.  This didn't last long. 

I will send good luck trapping vibes your way.
 

ondine

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Wow - God bless you for taking on this challenge!  There are a couple of ways you can trap him if the humane trap doesn't work.  Can you borrow a drop trap from the Alley Cat group?  It is essentially a box propped up on a stick with a string tied to the stick.  When the cat goes under it, someone yanks the strong and the trap drops down over the cat.  You will probably need a second person to transfer help him to the carrier or regular trap.

And no - you are not nuts.  Well, maybe just a little cat crazy but hey, join the club! 
 
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ohiokrs

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Update: After months and months of trying...he finally was caught yesterday.  I have slowly been moving the food to the back of th trap and decided to try and catch him before the snow storm hit today.  He is currently in a large dog crate in my laundry room with a litter pan of potting soil, a blanket, food/water. Due to the snow storm, I am thinking it may be Tuesday before I can get him to the clinic which I hope is okay.  I am keeping the room dark and quiet which I hope is the thing to do?  I am concerned about him eating and drinking since I am sure he is somewhat scared although he does seem to like sitting by the door to the crate and watiching our feet go back and forth if we have to go in the pantry.

Any hints for getting him to drink/eat or is this normal?  Praying I am doing the right thing in trying to bring him inside and keeping him in the dog crate until I can get him to the clinic. Hope that counts as being in a trap...
 

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Oh, wow!  Thanks for the update.  You are absolutely doing the right thing.  You can't leave him behind, so taking the time now to get him used to being inside now is critical.  The dog crate is a perfect set up.  Just make sure he doesn't get too much excitement.  He needs peace and quiet and time, time, time to get used to the new smells, sights and routines.

The clinic sounds like a dream come true.  Wish I had something like that nearby.  Take advantage of their expertise.
 
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ohiokrs

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Yes I am pretty thankful I caught him and the clinic is inexpensive and helpful although they think I am slightly crazy for trying this :)
 

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Yeah for you!!!!! All of us that have done this know how hard it can be to get a cat into the trap - great job!

Please be sure to call your clinic before you take him in the dog crate there. Our low-cost spay/neuter clinic will only allow take ferals in live traps - what they've told us here is that if we can't handle them, they won't spay/neuter them unless they arrive (and leave) in a trap (plus they charge more if it's a cat they can handle that is in something other than a cage. So please call to check before you drive over with him in the dog crate. Hopefully you'll be able to lure him back into the trap (many of us here can probably offer suggestions in how to do that - I know we've done it). 

For now - the best way to help him feel comfortable enough to eat is to completely cover the crate. Drape it with a sheet - or two if the crate is too large for one. I generally do leave a light on wherever I'm keeping the cat (whether it's in a trap - as we usually leave them until we take them to the clinic, but we usually take them that day or the next after the initial trapping - or in a crate), and then (unless the cat goes crazy at the sheets, I drape with two sheets, and leave a crack between the two sheets at the top so some light can get in. Make sure the sheets go all the way to the ground - the cat will feel alot more comfortable if they feel enclosed, and basically can't see what's happening around them. That will actually make him more comfortable than leaving him in a darkened room, or leaving space around the bottom. I know it feels counterintuitive as humans - I always feel so bad covering them up. But whenever I've given into that worry and done something like left one side of the sheet up so that they can see - they always end up getting more stressed and going crazy, trying to pull the sheet in (trying to get out), ripping up newspapers, overturning food/water, etc.). But almost 99% of the time, if I leave them 99% covered with the crack at the top - they stay relatively calm until taken in/released. 

SO glad you finally caught him!!! Let us know how it goes!

And stay warm :)
 

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I am so happy you trapped him!!!  I bet you are so relieved.  Definitely as was suggested call the clinic and ask how you have to transport him.  My low cost no appointment needed for ferals clinic insists on them being in a humane trap.  Just call to be sure. 

I wouldn't worry too much about him eating right now.  Just leave food and water out all of the time for him.  He won't starve himself, but he may be so scared he won't eat at all until after the neutering. 

Keep the cage covered on all sides and play some soft quiet music 24/7 for him.  I use some classical harp music for cats I downloaded from Amazon.  Yet a classical radio station will work too.  A feliway plug in might help too. 

While you are waiting for the neuter, make sure you have a room ready for him.  One that is safe.  If it's a spare bedroom, you might want to block the entrance to under the bed or take the bed off the frame and set it directly on the floor or prop the bed up against the wall.  You don't want him hiding or getting stuck under the bed.  Also check for other small spaces behind dressers, behind book cases, etc...  Yet do have a safe place for him to hide such as a cat tree with a hidey hole, an old box with a cozy blanket or a safe spot under a desk or dresser.  Have a window for him to look out and watch the birds.  Also place the litter box on one side of the room and his food on the other.  Leave a few toys as well. 

When you come into the room to visit, sit on the floor and talk quietly.  Always bring a yummy treat and offer it.  Don't be surprised if at first he ignores it in your presence.  You can talk quietly to him or read aloud from a book/magazine.  Keep your visits short at first.  When you leave, offer another treat.  This will allow him to associate you with yummy treats and food. 

This will take lots of time and patience.  Just take it slowly and don't push him.  Celebrate the small successes and then move onto the next step.

We are all here to help.  I am so happy you caught him and will give him a wonderful life.
 
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ohiokrs

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Thank you for telling me to check with the clinic about the dog carte. You are correct in that he has to be brought in the trap. I have NO IDEA how I am going to do that. he was terrifed the first time. Any suggestions on how to get him in the trap would be helpful. I have one more day before I can take him to the clinic (my roads are not clear.....massive amounts of snow).
I did not want him to be in the storm but I guess I should have waited. I was worried about the eating/drinking as I did not want him to be dehydrated prior to surgery.

I cannot believe I have to get him back in the trap.
 

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If it doesn't have to be a trap, you can put a carrier in the crate.  Usually when you open the door, he will scoot into the carrier to hide.

If it has to be a trap, you might try tying the trap open with a loose knot and leaving a length of twine so you can yank on it and untie the knot.

Put the trap, tied open, inside the crate and cover it completely.  If he runs into it to hide, you can  yank on the twine. 

I've done this outside while trapping and it works but I've never tried it in the confines of a crate.  Practice first.

You might be able to call the clinic and ask if you can get a divider for the crate, so you can bring him to the clinic in the crate.  The divider will help you back him against the side of the crate, where someone from the clinic can give him the shot of anesthesia.  That's why they like them in traps - the cat is easier to confine against the open side of the trap and the techs can get to them to give them the shot.

A carrier doesn't have those open sides.
 

shadowsrescue

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A divider for the crate is a great idea.  I would definitely call the clinic and explain your situation.  They might be able to accommodate you. 

If you must get him into the trap, you could try placing the trap mostly inside the crate (bungie the crate door shut).  I have used a long dowel rod that is positioned right on the trigger of the trap and once the cat is just inside the trap, I push the dowel rod and it triggers the trap to close.  I also might try covering the trap.

Hopefully the clinic will understand your situation and allow you to bring him in a divider.  Explain how long you have been trying to trap and maybe offer to pay more if that is in your budget.

Keep us posted.
 

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I just posted this on another part of the site and thought it might be useful here as well.  It is a method of transporting injured feral cats when they are NOT in a trap and will not go in a carrier.  You will know if this might work for you depending on your situation.

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Transport Method for Feral Cats when you cant get them into a carrier

What I can add to the discussion is a good method of transporting feral cats to and from the vet as I had to do it every 5 days for 6 weeks with my Grey Boy who had terrible injuries and needed dressing changes every 5 days for 6 weeks.  Initially he settled into a laundry basket in my laundry room (the first night I trapped him in there).  I gave him a tranquilizer (1/4 of a 1mg. lorazepam tablet, generic for ativan -- has little to no taste and what you can taste is just a little sweetness), crushed and wrapped in a piece of turkey bacon.  It didn't knock him out but made him calm and sleepy rather than his hyperalert feral self, at which time I placed a second laundry basket over the top of the one he was sleeping in and used zip ties to hitch the top to the bottom, then put the whole contraption into the back seat of the car and off we went.  At the vet's office we would cut the zip ties on the ends and one side and open the top like it was hinged enough for the vet to give him a quick shot of something to knock him out -- maybe ketamine -- and they would take him in, change his bandages and put him back in the laundry basket while he was still out cold and then hitch new zip ties on the open areas.  (In case he woke up before we got home, but he never did.)  I would then take him home, put his basket back where it was and remove the top laundry basket.  When he woke up, he was fine and not even upset.  You could try that technique with yours.  Mine would never have gone into a carrier, and if he did, getting him out could have been dangerous.  This guy is totally feral and has been for his entire life.

So how do you get yours into a laundry basket the first time?  Mine went in because it was the only attractive place in the small laundry room he was in.  He was too badly injured to do much else, and it was preferable to the hard floor.  However, there WAS one day when it was time to go and even though he was sleepy, he was on the floor and not in the basket.  That day I took an empty laundry basket (these are rectangular, soft plastic ones) and put it over him, then slid a piece of plexiglass under the basket and the cat (the plexiglass used to be in a frame over a poster, I had to get creative). flipped the entire thing over and carefully attached the second basket to the top with the zip ties as I gradually slid out the plexiglass.  Necessity is the mother of invention!   I'm hoping this helps you, and anyone else who needs to transport a feral cat to the vet or anywhere else.
 
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ohiokrs

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I am starting to panic about this whole trip to the clinic.  they went on a spiel about him being in the dog crate and if he bites someone he might have rabies etc.  He is not eating so I cannot do anything with that.  On the plus side he is a very calm, cool cat....I have everything ready for when he comes home.  (We dont want to talk about that cost) So now it boils down to getting him back in the trap.  I guess I will try cornering him in the dog crate and pray that works.  It is more like a big kennel...plastic cover.  Had I known about all this I would have waited I guess.  I have to be there by 830 am at the latest or risk not getting him in.

I bought a new carrier for him to come home in. They want to put him back in the trap and I am not scaring him that way.
 

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DEFINITELY see if you can get a divider - that can make the process a million times easier. The way we do it is to section off (with a divider from the clinic whenever possible). Get the cat into the side WITHOUT the door. Then get the trap into the open side of the crate....already set gently, with bottom lined with a layer of newspaper, and no food if you're taking him in for neutering the next day  (needs to be on an empty stomach). Cover the back, top and sides of the trap - about 2/3 of the way up up to the front of the trap. Attach a piece of twine or something to the trap door and thread it through to the outside so that you can pull it from outside, that way you can snap it shut when he's in that side. Then also cover the side that now has the trap in it. Now (making sure the crate is fully shut!!!!! No escaping!!!) uncover the side he's cowering in - generally ferals will run right toward where it's dark and covered. Just watch - and as soon as he's fully ensconced in the back of the trap, Pull the twine so that the trap door swings shut. Viola! Newly trapped cat!

Then when he comes back to recuperate, basically reverse the process! Has worked for us numerous times. Then they don't have to recuperate in the tiny trap!!
 
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