Why Does Frontline and Advantage Not Work For Fleas Now?

red top rescue

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The Diotomaceous Earth works well for wood floors and furniture.  It works because the fine particles in it get under the fleas exoskeleton and the sucker dries out.  Fleas can breed in the cracks inn wood floors but the fine powder stays in there and gets the larvae.   Food grade diotomaceous earth actually kills intestinal worms when ingested, but it would not kill heartworms, which are transmitted via mosquito bites.   If you have an inside cat, there is absolutely NO reason to choose Advantage Multi over Advantage II or even plain Advantage, and Revolution os overkill on a continual basis.  Fleas are an ongoing problem and they do build up immunity to any poisonous product used, which is why constant rotation is good, but they can't defend themselves against a physical drying agent like diotomatceous earth, borax, or boric acid powder.
 
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angela mann

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If I gave my cats Advantage three days ago and I'm still seeing live fleas around the house after vacuuming and spraying is it not working? Can I give Frontline or should I wait since I just gave Advantage?
 

kstonya

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I was told that if you have a bad infestation that you can treat again after 3 weeks. The house and pets all need treated at the same time. I use home sprays and rotate the brands. I have everything in the house sprayed not just the baseboards. I have been reading that revolution kills by the fleas biting the pets frontline does not requires the fleas to bite just come in contact with the fur. we have gotten some borax and will be trying that as I am allergic to the bites.
 

red top rescue

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You can repeat Advantage or Advantage II (but not Advantage Multi) as often as once a week in a bad infestation.  However, if you are seeing fleas around the house and not on the cats, it just means you need to treat the house wth something effective.  The Diotomaceous Earth works well for wood floors and furniture.  It works because the fine particles in it get under the fleas exoskeleton and the sucker dries out.  Fleas can breed in the cracks inn wood floors but the fine powder stays in there and gets the larvae.   Food grade diotomaceous earth actually kills intestinal worms when ingested.  It is inexpensive at most feed stores and you can just let it lie in hidden areas, such as under couch pillows, under beds, etc.  In other places, sprinkle it around (like carpets, couches etc.) and even wood floors.  Sweep it into the carpet and around the floor.  Let it lie as long as you can -- overnight is good.  Then vacuum.  As long as you have a flea problem, make sure there is DE in your vacuum cleaner bag so the fleas and eggs you do vacuum up will be treated also.
 

frufru

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Hi.. My cat had fleas like 3 years ago.. What I did-I have tiles-
I cleaned all my sofas and floor(deep cleaning ..turn sofa over put the boric acid) place boric acid on Al corners of floor cover
With news paper ..place the powder in the seams and hard to get
places in the sofa..do a deep cleaning..remember the fleas drop
Eggs and the hatch by the bunches.. So what the acid do it destroys
The eggs..it took me a good 4 hours just the dinning and living or where
The cats hang out.. Don't think the powder is harmful to cats, pls ck.. plus just
Do the corners and hiding areas and cover with paper for at least 24 hours..
I never had a flea again ..my cats are indoor ..they never took any Advantage.
Hope this help..a Person that works with Pests advised me to do so.

Just don't place boric acid on the floor where you normally walk..place in corners ..
Cover with paper ..try and keep cat away from area..don't want their paws to get into
It..;)
[emoji]128512[/emoji]
 

nansiludie

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I use Advantage II and vacuum, mop and wash all cat beds at least once a week for about a month until all fleas are cleared. Please remove or empty dustbag or cup from vacuum when you're done. I've not had any trouble with Advantage not killing fleas. Only Frontline only killing fleas for 2 weeks and then ticks for a full month.
 

msthe thing

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A couple of years ago we used Fronline on an indoor/oudoor cat and it worked like a charm. No more 'spazzingout and chewing on himself" as another user wrote on a different flea forum. I know I'm asking a LOT from a product if I continue to let my cat go in and out at will, but he is/WAS a stray whom we took in. If anyone has tried to convert an indoor outdoor to an indoor only cat...IT'S VERY NOISY to say the least. He has NEVER used a litter box so that's not an issue, but the near constant mewling is difficult to bear. Much more difficult is seeing him be in discomfort. My heart hurts, he can't even sleep!

My vacuumn does not get put away now, we are not getting bitten, so I think the house is safe.

I live in a semi rural area, and have stores nearby that sell all manner of no presciption necessary things(antibiotics for your cows and the like), I'm sure I can get flea killers there. 

Is there a consensus for an available in America product?

Go for it! Strongest arguement works!!
 

Margret

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No idea what works best now, since Jasmine is an indoor only cat and doesn't get fleas. I can tell you why they stop working, though: the fleas build up resistance, evolution in action.

Margret
 
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segelkatt

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Regarding boric acid: it is  a nerve poison which is why bugs do not build up a resistance to it, they die before they can reproduce. Boric acid has been used for over 300 years but you do have to be careful with it. Only put it in places where neither children nor pets can get to it, including walking or crawling through it as they both have the habit of putting hands  or paws to or into their mouths. his would make it difficult to get rid of fleas which are in carpet and upholstered furniture although I would think it would eventually do the trick. A faster way would be to dose all animals with "Revolution" and within 2 to 3 days there would be no more fleas with a repeat probably not necessary unless they were brought in again on a pet or one's clothing. I'll save the boric acid for ants and ugh! roaches, silverfish and other creepy-crawlies that dare to invade my apartment although I usually get an ant invasion twice a year: to get out of the rain in the winter and to get TO some water in the summer which are the trials in SoCal. A few cotton balls soaked in sugar water and then rolled in Borax on a paper towel somewhere on the ant trail (which is usually in front of the door where the cats don't go), takes care of those invasions within one or two days.  
 

red top rescue

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A couple of years ago we used Fronline on an indoor/oudoor cat and it worked like a charm. No more 'spazzingout and chewing on himself" as another user wrote on a different flea forum. I know I'm asking a LOT from a product if I continue to let my cat go in and out at will, but he is/WAS a stray whom we took in. If anyone has tried to convert an indoor outdoor to an indoor only cat...IT'S VERY NOISY to say the least. He has NEVER used a litter box so that's not an issue, but the near constant mewling is difficult to bear. Much more difficult is seeing him be in discomfort. My heart hurts, he can't even sleep!

My vacuumn does not get put away now, we are not getting bitten, so I think the house is safe.

I live in a semi rural area, and have stores nearby that sell all manner of no presciption necessary things(antibiotics for your cows and the like), I'm sure I can get flea killers there. 

Is there a consensus for an available in America product?

Go for it! Strongest arguement works!!
If you go back in this thread a little ways to my earlier posts, 69, 81 and 84, you will see that Diotomaceous Earth ("DE") works the same way boric acid powder works but is safer.  It is not  poison but fine particles that get between the fleas body scales and basically dry them up (boric acid and borax do the same thing).  You just have to be sure to get the FOOD grade DE, available at most farm stores like Tractor Supply.  You can also use that in their ears to get rid of ear mites or to prevent ear mites.  I still use Advantage II on my cats and do it every 3 weeks during the heavy flea months, since the flea life cycle is 3 weeks, and you can use it as much as every week at first if you are dealing with a heavy infestation.  It still works, just maybe not for 4 weeks.  I do use Advantage II the same way someone else does Revolution, by buying the Extra Large Dog size and measuring cat doses at 0.4 ml up to 0.8 ml depending on their weight.  So my recommendation is still Advantage II for the cats and DE for the physical space.  Also if you have DE in your vacuum cleaner bag, any fleas you vacuum up will be dried up quickly.
 
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swanlakechelsea

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If an outside-inside cat has fleas, wouldn't flea medicine help him to be more comfortable?  Besides, he wouldn't be bringing fleas inside.
 

tnrmakessense

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Fantastic information. I live in Florida where the fleas just laugh at most treatments. This is the first time I've read that lowering the humidity to 40% kills fleas, but it makes complete sense since the only time we don't battle them here is the few months where the humidity drops along with the temperature. Thanks for posting.
 

jmarkitell

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I have several cats that are semi feral and they always bring home a couple of fleas...especially at this time of year. I have come up with a solution that works well, although might not work for everyone. Low humidity levels don't seem to make much of a difference as I have had fleas in the dead of winter...if you get static electricity shocks during the winter, your air is plenty dry. I think bed bugs are more susceptible to dryness, but it didn't seem to bother my fleas.

  I typically give my new cats a dose of Capstar, which is very effective as well as safe and kills the fleas in hours...its something to see as the fleas jump off like rats off of a sinking ship!  After the Capstar, which only kills adult fleas (and doesn't affect the eggs), I put a dose .of Revolution on their nape of the neck. This kills the eggs and any remaining adults as well as hookworms and other troublesome pests. It also lasts for a month! For my home, I typically use a flea bomb, although borax or diatomaceous earth work well in carpets. Flea bombs contain a pesticide which might not be good if you have fish or birds, so either move them away from the treated areas or use the other two items. The diatomaceous earth kills by cutting the insects body with it's very sharp and small crystals while Borax kills chemically.

  After the three stage treatment, I usually have a flea free home and kittys that aren't scratching. The fleas are active around here (SW Pennsylvania) until the first frost...this is when I usually treat all resident cats (and ferals if I can get em) with Revolution. After treatment, I usually don't have to worry again until the following late spring.

   I have been doing this for 30 years, although the Revolution is a new medication that works great, in my opinion. I hope this helps someone...I got tired of chasing fleas every year until I came up with this regimen. It has helped me greatly...please let me know if it helps you as well!

Jim
 
 

farmerglenn

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hey there - here in ne oklahoma, frontline has not worked for over 5 years, and advantage stopped working last year, and we have got us some serious fleas.

#1 before you write either off, recognize that even if it's working on the animal, that fleas from elsewhere in the environment will be seen on them for sometime. research flea life cycles and treating your entire environment, and expect that even with full measures on animals and environment, it may take 6+ weeks to clear 90%

best results here, with 4 dogs and 10 cats, all in and outdoors:

> food-grade diatomaceous earth in the cracks and as a light film anywhere a vacuum can't reach; coupled with frequent vaccuming; (this can also be applied directly onto animals, but wherever it is it will only affect youngster fleas not adults; if the dogs-cats eat it, cool, helps to de-worm them mechanically, and it's real cheap.

> bathe the dogs once per week with dawn while fleas are present; suds them good and let it sit for 5 and rinse; this will kill nearly every flea on them

> parasitic nematodes around the perimeter of the house; as much of your yard as possible; these natural predators eat flea and termite larvae and don't hurt nothin else; we had fantastic results treating 1,000 sq ft and will do it in full force next march, not that cheap but not toxic either

> activyl on all the dogs, and only on the cats that come indoors and/or have flea bite dermatitis; this is a newer consumer pesticide that kills adult fleas without biting and young fleas through toxic adult flea poo exposure. the formula is exactly the same for dogs and cats, (I contacted the manufacturer and they confirmed this). the very large vials for dogs cost nearly the same as the tiny doses for cats. after dosage research I successfully applied the "dog" version, by pound, to all of the animals and without issue. [merck the manufacturer has recently added rather inflammatory "do not use on cats" markings to their dog packaging, and I'd really like to hear from others who have been using the by-pound application].

as much as I'd hoped to avoid pesticide / ectoparasiticide use, this activyl really helped to end our major infestation that i'd attempted to squelch through natural means alone for 2 months.

==

poor results here; though tried at/with great length, expense, and effort

dehumidifier

apple cider vinegar

cedar oil

vanillin-based sprays

tub-soaking

combing

cursing

also, fipronil is a known worldwide as one of the major contributors to colony collapse disorder and the decimation of bees and other pollinators. the pollinator impact of activyl (Indoxacarb) is yet to be determined, so this post should not be understood as a green stamp for indoxacarb.

bests fg
 

red top rescue

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Regarding the "do not use on cats" warning on the activyl, Bayer does the same thing with Advantage and Advantage II, even though it is exactly the same product for dogs and cats (and ferrets too).  The dog product clearly states "Do Not Use On Cats" and I think the cat product states Do Not Use On Dogs but I am not sure since I never buy the cat product, I buy the Extra Large Dog product.  Of COURSE they don't want you to know this since at least with Advantage each extra large dog vial contains 10 times the cat vial yet the stores charge either the same or close to the same for both.

Checking online, IdealPetX charges LESS for the dog activyl ($50.50 Large Dog, $51.50 extra large do) than it does for either size Cat Activyl ($54.50 regular cat, $54.89 large cat)3. 
 
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farmerglenn

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thanks redtop that is great to get a confirmation; ; my first activyl box didn't have the bold markings the second did and it kinda tweaked me; i monitor every animal and the first time with any treatment is a harrowing experience -- and i was relieved to be through it the first time with indoxocarb; didn't want to do that again.

may be excessive (?) but i'm going ahead an attaching images of the box; new one is always on the right

thanks again redtop, bests fg








[sorry no pic of the old packet]
 

smulan

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We were having a problem last year with fleas infestation in the house.  I don't like to use foggers and spray poison all over the walls and furniture, and I also have a parrot.  After doing some research, I went to the feed store and bought a bag of food grade diatomaceous earth.  You sprinkle it on the carpets, leave for a few hours, and then vacuum it up.  You can also put it around baseboards, on bedding, etc.  Worked like a charm....better than anything else I have tried.  You might have to do it a few times just to defeat the fleas hatch cycle.  You can also put it directly on the animals, and it works for ear mites too.!!!  It has to be FOOD GRADE (not the stuff in the garden or pool section, which contains toxic stuff).  Many feed stores carry it because farmers feed it to their livestock as a natural dewormer. (50# bag $24.00)  People also take it for a variety of benefits.  It also works in the yard.  It can also be fed to cats and dogs for skin and coat, and a natural wormer.....although I haven't done that.

Here is one of several websites I found that has information:  http://www.earthworkshealth.com/pets-animals.php
How does the "food grade" work? Is it a rating or just a stamp that "this is good"-kind of thing?
 

daisycalico

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it just doesn't work.  check internet.  lots of complaints.  we used it for many years, including this summer, and now have flea eggs in hpouse, larvae, flease on cat.  vet keeps telling us we're not putting it on right..........bull.   was good for years but now we don't know how to do it?  the stuff is just not working.

check out natural stuff like cedar, citronella,  lavender and other essential oils.  put a bit of garlic capsule in cats food (makes blood not taste good to fleas).  check out a product called Capstar which can be given even if on frontline supposedly.

vet office told me Frontline will refund costs of product IF was purchased at a vet (mine was).  pet stores supposedly they won't honor guarantee as those get a lot of counterfeit product.

still, we have spend well over $200 on new pillows, mattress and pillow covers, LAUNDROMAT to wash ALL linnens in HOT H2O, flea spray and bombs, carpet cleaner solution, new pet bed, etc.  not to mention 3 days of work.....have to spray, then bombs, then vaccume, then scrub/wash.  have to treat mattresses, upholstered furniture, underneath couches and couch bottom, all cracks and crevices.  have to seal off kitchen cupboards and anything  having to do with foods, etc.   have to leave the house and then open all windows for hours afterwards.  then do all the cleaning.  bathe the cat but can't use flea shampoo pet store fellow recommended head and shoulders shampoo.......wish Frontline would reimburse for all the stuff I had to buy/replace, and all the WORK.

  vet  offered another product called Vectra or something like that.  also keep in mind that when cat has fleas, usually gets worms as well.

research alternatives.  check the internet about it.  

that's all I can offer.

on the bright side, house will be clean for the holidays!
 
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