newbie dealing with aggressive feral cat

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Details:

- I have never dealt with/seen a feral cat

- I have a feral cat currently trapped in a havahart trap

- he (she?) is roughly 10 inches long x 8 inches tall without accounting for his tail

- I cannot go anywhere near the trap without him constantly trying to lunge at me, dragging the trap a few inches along with his jumps, hissing, claws bared, meowing horribly

- That sh*t is terrifying

- He is currently in my garage with a blanket over his trap. He has a can of food. This is not ideal, I know. I was unprepared and now the little guy has to suffer for it

- He is probably not rabid, I watched him socialize with the other feral cats that didn't set my trap off

- I want to TNR this cat

- I want to TNR ALL THE CATS

I know he desperately needs a bath. He's probably flea bitten and he is a little malnourished. I live with my parents so I can't keep him in the house or do anything but try and move him to a cat condo or at least a cat carrier until I can fix and release him.

The trap is difficult to open remotely, and I'm afraid because this tiny cat wants to straight up kill me.

My questions are:

1. How/Can I give him a flea bath without dying in the process?

2. How can I

     - move him to a more comfortable cage

     - give him food/water

     - keep him clean and healthy

     - potentially care for him/her after he/she gets fixed

     without him trying to hurt me or himself?

Sorry for these newbie questions. Everything I've looked up online and this website has not helped me deal with vicious aggression under my particular circumstances. I haven't looked through everything but it's almost 5 am and at this point I need quicker answers. I do not have a spare room to give him or the time to get him to trust me, if he even could. I just want to help control the kitty population.

Thanks so much for reading
 
Last edited:

StefanZ

Advisor
Staff Member
Advisor
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
25,971
Purraise
10,596
Location
Sweden
Them being very aggressive when trapped is quite common. Protective gloves and thick clothes are the rescuers best friend in such situations...   But when they notice nobody is really hurting them, they usually do cool down after some hours.

He should cool down a little soon, if he is let be there, with this blanket over the trap.

Had you talked with the vet?  Is the vet used to neuter ferale cats?  If so, you dont need to overdo this, as you essentially just want to TNR.

Just take him to the vet, in the trap if you wish. It is not necessary to move him into a carrier.

Afterwards, he can also be in the trap these 6-24 hours before you release him.

Females somewhat longer. 24-48,  if they are healthy semiferales, and done with flank incision and self-dissolving stiches.

If you dont see any complications of course.   But they are survivors made of tough wood, so they usually do fine, unless the vet messed something up.   :)

If you want to have them longer, do have a big dog crate, you can have them in it several days without having bad conscience.

I suppose others will fill in.

Keep on with reports and questions.

Tx for caring!!!!

Welcome to our Forums!

Good luck!   *vibes*
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Holy bananas, I feel much better then. And good info to know. I'm also glad to know that I didn't somehow do something terrible to the cat. And that what I'm doing now is okay! Thank you StefanZ!

I haven't talked to a vet yet. I have a whole list of vets to call tomorrow though. Tonight's catch was mostly based on a vague, prolonged desire to help animals and a desire to stop being afraid of being out late night in DC. But I'm going to try and strike a deal with a clinic to get a reduced rate since I plan on doing this as often as possible.

Does it become more difficult to catch feral cats over time within a given area, since they see their friends get trapped, regardless if their friends come back?

Would it help or hurt to give him a flea collar before I release him?
 
Last edited:

StefanZ

Advisor
Staff Member
Advisor
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
25,971
Purraise
10,596
Location
Sweden
No flea collars! They are often poisonous. Besides, a collar can fasten on something...

Get the Revolution spot on, and drop instead on the neck. goes on for about a month, I think.  Revolution takes also "care" of most other parasites and worms, save the tapeworms.  Nowadays is Revolution presciption free.

Othewise, the neutering vet will prob give him something if you ask (pay) for it.

There is also a pill, working instantly, I dont remember the name at this moment. Works fine, but not cheap, and helps just for the moment, killing off the fleas living now, but not their eggs.

Nay, they dont seem to mind trapping of the others very much.  The once trapped cat tends to be more cautious, yes, but not so much the others, no.  So you shouldnt have big difficulties catching up them all. And you will become more experienced with time too.

You can perhaps get contact with some rescue group nearby?  Even some shelters do works with ferales...  If nothing else, they can perhaps tip you about a good vet nearby who helps them.

You had seen our links for  low price clinics?

The site Alleycats have also lots of information for people working with TNR.  Groups and concerned individuals.

This here cat. As you probably cant take him to a vet latest tomorrow, you must plan on getting dog cage or something. He shouldnt be in the trap more than say 48 hours at very most. 

Or even have it in your bathroom. Many rescuers do so.

In worst case, realease him, and start anew, after planning everything more carefully, vet contacts and so.

As said, if it is TNR you plan on, NOT fostering nor adopting, you dont need to overdo it.

Have a trap, a couple of dog cages...  With a tight contact with a vet you dont need much more.

Some groups do work this way.  And nay, they seldom or never give them bath. Not these tight budget groups. 

Good luck!
 

feralvr

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
18,474
Purraise
689
Location
Northwest Indiana
Welcome and thank you SOOO much for trying to help this cat!! I would get him staight away to the vet. It is best to have a plan before you start trapping. i.e. TNR Organization assistance, Vet lined up, room or large cage if you plan to socialize. Here is an article that would be helpful for you to read written by a long time, expert feral member http://catcentric.org/behavior-and-psychology/socializing-a-feral-cat-its-all-about-trust/ And another artcle here http://www.thecatsite.com/a/handling-feral-cats The vet will be able to take care of all of the flea/worming/shots and neuter once the cat is tranquilized. I would not try to handle this cat or give a bath, that would be impossible and you would get injured. I agree with Stefanz, that you might have to release him :shame: so you can get a plan. I hate to say that though because re-trapping might be difficult but it can be done by starting regular feeding schedules outside in the trap. IF you can today - get that cat sterilized anyway and then you could release him and start over IF you plan on trying to socialize this guy. Also, it will not be a problem trapping other cats for TNR even though they have seen other's in the trap. Hunger takes over and in they go. You just have to only offer food in that trap. I appreciate your efforts to help control the feral cat population - you are doing a great service to the cats. :hugs: Best of luck and keep us posted!!!!! :vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes:
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Oh okay, no flea collars.

Through this website I got directed to friendsofanimals.org, where I threw in my zip code and found veterinary clinics that deal with wild kitties.

I'm going to have the clinic take of everything he needs on Monday! I'm so happy that I don't have to release him before I fix him! I feel like bouncing off the walls.

I'm going to transfer him to a decent sized cage today, as safely as I can. He hasn't been in attack mode this morning. It may be possible. At least more so than last night.

Here's the little guy!  At this point he was still in shock. He didn't try to go nuts on me until I got him home.

You can't tell, but his fur is actually pretty dirty.

 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Thanks for the links! I definitely want to be perfect at this so I can do it for a long, long time.

I'm going to get supplies and some safety gear today like welder's gloves. I will keep you guys posted with pictures and updates as they happen! I'M SO EXCITED!!

Thanks everybody!
 

StefanZ

Advisor
Staff Member
Advisor
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
25,971
Purraise
10,596
Location
Sweden
I'm going to get supplies and some safety gear today like welder's gloves.
I forget to add, protective glasses of some sort, at least common glasses, may be useful.  If they freak out (or even play "poor kitty fighs with a big monster") they can go after the face and esp eyes.

If playing they hopefully strikes with soft paws. But if the real sharp fight mode they claws out eyes on big adversaries.

Im not saying this to you to abandon the project, nor got you afraid, but it is good sense to be aware and somewhat careful.

Another tip, try to lay something on the traps floor. A masonite sheet, or cardboard paper, or something.  This net against their paws doesnt looks pleasant....

You are doing great!

Good luck!    *vibes*
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
I bought:

- pine pellet kitty litter

- rubber based food bowls

- a big dog crate with a plastic tray

- cat food, the crappy kind and the high end stuff

He/she has been only a little bit hissy, but other than that, me and my sister spent 20 minutes gently prodding and petting him with sticks until we scooted him to his new cage. We were inches away from him the entire time and he only hissed at us out of annoyance a couple of times. This is an insane difference from last night.

It's been 2 hours so far, and he hasn't touched his food or water today. He did eat an entire full size can of cat food last night, but no bowel movements to speak of yet. He looks at the ground a lot, too, from his little cardboard box. He doesn't bother looking at us very much. I reckon this is normal, but I still don't like it.

***And one more thing. My dad made a point that it's useless to fix a male cat vs. a female cat because a female cat will try to reproduce with a ton of different males. I'm going to fix this kitty regardless, but what does TCS think about this theory? Has anyone ever not fixed a male cat because it would be a waste of resources?

Pics



 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
I forget to add, protective glasses of some sort, at least common glasses, may be useful.  If they freak out (or even play "poor kitty fighs with a big monster") they can go after the face and esp eyes.

If playing they hopefully strikes with soft paws. But if the real sharp fight mode they claws out eyes on big adversaries.

Im not saying this to you to abandon the project, nor got you afraid, but it is good sense to be aware and somewhat careful.

Another tip, try to lay something on the traps floor. A masonite sheet, or cardboard paper, or something.  This net against their paws doesnt looks pleasant....

You are doing great!

Good luck!    *vibes*
Thank you very much. I will remember to make the surface more pleasant next time.

Out of being scared, I try to have as little contact with the cat as possible. I have goggles from my Chemistry class and I did use them. I wore 2 sweatshirts and 2 pairs of pants and . I looked ridiculous trying to move this cat around, but as I get the hang of TNR I might not be so hesitant to physically interact with the cat in the future. So I will remember that
 

StefanZ

Advisor
Staff Member
Advisor
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
25,971
Purraise
10,596
Location
Sweden
I bought:

- pine pellet kitty litter

- rubber based food bowls

- a big dog crate with a plastic tray

- cat food, the crappy kind and the high end stuff

He/she has been only a little bit hissy, but other than that, me and my sister spent 20 minutes gently prodding and petting him with sticks until we scooted him to his new cage. We were inches away from him the entire time and he only hissed at us out of annoyance a couple of times. This is an insane difference from last night.

It's been 2 hours so far, and he hasn't touched his food or water today. He did eat an entire full size can of cat food last night, but no bowel movements to speak of yet. He looks at the ground a lot, too, from his little cardboard box. He doesn't bother looking at us very much. I reckon this is normal, but I still don't like it.

***And one more thing. My dad made a point that it's useless to fix a male cat vs. a female cat because a female cat will try to reproduce with a ton of different males. I'm going to fix this kitty regardless, but what does TCS think about this theory? Has anyone ever not fixed a male cat because it would be a waste of resources?
You are doing marvellously well, esp being a new be.   :)

What you tell is representative for such situations. Once they cooled down and recognize you arent really hostile, they are seldom aggressive. You shall not be stupid, but they are sooner submissive and try to copy and "play along" as good as they can.

Not all freshy catched are so aggressive as this, but it does certainly happens, so you must be prepared.

No, he doesnt look at you. Staring at, looking in the eyes, is hostile threat in the wild cat world.

Home cats do looks in the eyes and accept you do look at them, they are used to it, it is part of the fostering into home cat.   :)

So dont look in the eyes of these homeless cats, look at the ears or best a little aside.

Now when he had cooled down, you can blink slowly and yawn - both friendly gestures in the cat world.

Of course, as you are NOT trying to foster him, it is a wise strategy by you not to interact too much with him, nor touch him. He wont be stressed, and you wont be attached to him!    :)

Otherwise, he seems to be young, just out of the kitten hood.  If you were eager to foster him, I would say go on, you would surely succeed sooner or (at worst) later.

About neutering. Yes your dad has partly right. If you are very tight on money and must choose, true, begin with the females.

But if you do afford, take both.

HIS life will be much easier once neutered.  Less fighting, less risks of catching upleasant diseases (most of the dangerous like Felv  are catched when fighting)  less shrieking, less pissing and spraying

around.  Ie making less nuisance of himself, and thus - being easier to be accepted by humans in the area, not being nuisance nor a sanitary problem for them.

Being neutered, he will also be easier accepted by females in cat colonies - usually dominated by the most experienced females.

Last, but not least, being already neutered, he will have it a little easier to be adopted by spontan adopters.

Good luck!    *vibes*
 

feralvr

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
18,474
Purraise
689
Location
Northwest Indiana
OH look at him!!!!!!!!!!!! GREAT job on the crate!!!!!! :wow: Good for you !!!!!!!!!!! :clap::clap::clap: Wonderful that you found a place to get him neutered. Getting males and females sterilized is just as important. That one male cat you don't do will make many, many babies and you will not be able to trap all of the females in his territory. He also won't have that desire to fight, spray and roam for potential mates. It is a never ending cycle for tomcats and an very stressful life. Please trap and neuter regardless of male or female. Same cost - TNR organizations are all one fee for males and females so it shouldn't be a cost issue either way. Thanks again for stepping up with this guy. He is very handsome!!!!!! :love: Keep us posted. :vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes:
 
Last edited:

who it is

TCS Member
Young Cat
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
43
Purraise
1
Aww great job! Thanks for stepping up to help these kitties in need. All the advice given so far is great, and as far as the litterbox goes, he has probably never seen one before so mixing some dirt in with the litter may help him to recognize it as a bathroom.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Thanks everyone:)

It's been 48 hours since his neutering, flea meds, and all his vaccinations. It could just be me but he looks so handsome! He's eating and everything seems normal.

(also, where I am, it's 40$ neutering, $90 for spaying)

The litter box takes up almost half the space of the cage, so I think that's why he uses it for his business.

I'm now tempted going to move him out of the garage and into my room (I keep my door locked so my parents won't know). He can't be more than 2 years old, so I think I can get him to like me as a non threatening bearer of food. He might be young enough.

I'm also tempted to give him a flea bath first so my house doesn't become infested with fleas and things, even if it will make the kitty hate me for many more months to come. At least I got welder's gloves!

And I  named him Mooney since he's my little terrorizing werewolf kitty:)

He still momentarily goes into attack mode when he thinks I'm being threatening (moving too quickly). He doesn't mind me just sitting there, looking at him from 2 feet away (sans eye contact)
 
Last edited:

StefanZ

Advisor
Staff Member
Advisor
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
25,971
Purraise
10,596
Location
Sweden
This pill instantly killing off fleas is Capstar.  He got dewormers at the vet,s o they should soon kick in anyway. When he has settled down a little more, he will wash himself.  Or, if they do wash themselves you know they had settled in.   :)

I mean, I dont think it is so good idea to bathe him, you can lose many days in this way. Unless he IS fond of water. Some cats are.

IF you want to foster him, you must tell your parents sooner or later...  Better sooner.

Good luck!
 
 

feralvr

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
18,474
Purraise
689
Location
Northwest Indiana
Good idea about moving him into your room... closer to you.... BUT please do not attempt to bathe him. OMG - he will get away, there will be no way for you to hold him and then you will have a freaked out feral cat in your house, you will have to retrap him, and he will have a major setback on any progress you have made thus far. No bath, ok??? Even with the gloves on, which will scare the "H" out of him, I doubt you would even make it to the sink. Since the vet already gave him the flea product, then he should already be flea-free. What did they use?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17

moonpie666

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
10
Purraise
0
Capstar. Sorry, sometimes I blatantly don't pay attention to what I should be doing. Okay no baths!

He's in my room.

How likely will it be that once I let him roam around my room he will merely pee everywhere that isn't his litter box?
 

feralvr

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
18,474
Purraise
689
Location
Northwest Indiana
OH, I am so glad you have not attempted to bathe him either. :lol3: I was thinking about you and wanted to add that IF you even attempt the bath - you will destroy any chance at him ever trusting you, a human. He would be completely traumatized.....He needs the first experiences to be calm, gentle, non-threatening. I can't believe how much I have been concerned about that :lol:.... I can't help it, I guess :anon:

Make sure you have TWO large open litter boxes for him to choose from. Use the Cat Attract litter and sprinkle soil on top. There is also an Herbal Cat litter attractant This stuff was MADE for feral cats. It contains natural herbs and really brings the outdoors in. I would add 1/4 bottle to the litter and mix it in. Add a little soil on top. Most feral cats are extremely meticulous about using a litter box and covering their scent. ALSO, if you can, put your mattress on the floor. Take away the bed frame. You don't want him to be able to hide from you completely. BUT offer him many little hiding cubbies so he feels out of sight, but where you could easily reach him if need by. I hope that he will come around quickly for you!!!! :cross: :vibes::vibes::vibes::vibes:

p.s. If you have not, yet. Read the links I posted in my first post to you. They will be very helpful !!!! :bigwink:
 
Last edited:

iris

TCS Member
Adult Cat
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
125
Purraise
10
Location
Gig Harbor Wa
Good for you Sweetheart for caring about this cat. But please be careful. One thing I have learned about ferals is that it is very diffcult to tame them down after a certain age. Anyway..I could not DISGAREE more with your Dad. As bad as females have it out there on some level I think males have it worst. For one they must defend their territory. They get into nasty cat fights and horrible absesses. If they smell a in heat female they will travel up to 7 miles to find her. That is when they get hit by cars. So I care equally for both sexes. Here in Seattle we have free resources for ferals. Try looking at Cragislist in your town..sometimes the cat rescues have vouchers they give out for free services. We have a mobile spay neuter motor home that travels around and they do ferals for free. Then we have another place in lynnwood Wa called "The feral cat project". It is such a huge issue. But I meet lots of people trying to make a difference. I know one woman who traps over 500 cats a year. My first year of trapping I did about 85.
 
Top