Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggy'smom 
Would you be interested in taking a stab at this kitten?
We'll see. I've got him in a dog carrier right now and he's doing okay. I'm going to start working with him while I'm trying to figure out what to do with him. Any tips on how to start the process would be greatly appreciated. I don't have much experience with socializing feral kittens this old.
Actually, I was hoping someone could tell me if it is best to keep him in the large plastic carrier he's in now in a separate room or if it would be better to keep him in a larger wire cage, with shelves, that sits in the cat room? I could move the larger cage too of course. I'm not sure if it would be a good thing to put him in a wire cage where he would be more exposed or if the plastic cage is better where he feels more protected. I currently have the carrier covered with a blanket. Should I remove that to start working with him? I also have a small box in the carrier that he can hide in. Should I remove that?
I usually free feed kittens but I read that you shouldn't do that with a feral you're trying to socialize. How often and how much should I feed him of wet food and should I stay in the room while he eats? What if he won't eat while I'm there?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Actually, I would have loved to take this kitten from you. BUT - right now I am not taking on any foster's because of my cat Pipsqueak's health issues and stress issues. I am also dealing with trying to nurse along my older sick dog, Wilbur

, bless his heart. I really, really want to help you with this kitten, but I just can't commit to that at this point in time. I have also had to refuse other requests from my shelter to socialize feral kittens

. I feel bad about it, but I have to put my own pets first right now. They need me around the clock.....
I would definitely use a wire crate. If it is a large dog crate. Then put a small cat carrier inside with a comfy blanket (AND I always add a slept in t-shirt, a new one every night

) in it and take the door off. That can be a shelf and a hiding place all in one. I would feed scheduled meals to start, and wet food mixed with some dry. This will get the kitten looking for you at certain times of the day. The first few days, put the food down, then just leave the kitten alone to eat. Then go back in 30 minutes to take up the food if there is any left. Believe me, that kitten will eat, (unless it is very sick...) Once it is eating up the food right after you set it down and leave the room, then it is time to sit down at a distance (read, write, or be on the laptop) and don't even look at that kitten. It might not eat at first with you sitting there because Indy will be watching and staring at you LOL.

, Once he realizes you are not going to look at him or move and this becomes a routine, he will eat. That is a huge step in the right direction. I always tried to "pet" them after this point ( a few days or so after they are eating in your company). When they have a full tummy, that is the time to give them some love. Don't put the hand over the head, come from below. If the kitten cowers in that cat carrier. Pull the cat carrier towards you to the front of the crate. Talk gently and soothingly, don't stare, just rest your hand inside of the crate the first day or so. Then proceed to use a finger to rub under the chin and cheek. Don't pull the hand away if the kitten is hissing, just move very very slow, talk sweetly, and gently rub your finger back and forth under the chin. It could take quite a few days of this until the hissing stops. Then I usually scruff and wrap them in a towel snuggly with their head sticking out. I cradle them, and pet them the same way for about five to ten minutes. Then they go back. I did this about three times a day. After a couple of weeks of this it becomes easier and easier and more relaxing for the kitten. This is such an important first experience for the feral kitten's and makes for a lasting impression for them for the rest of their lives.
I have always had luck with this procedure and you have to expect some hissing/spitting at first. They need to be able to trust you and the fear comes out as hissing. Once the kitten starts to trust, things will improve.
Avery (one of the 6 month old black kitten's from last December) took a very long time. And actually the crate/cage socialization didn't work well for her. It wasn't until she was loose in a very small room that she started to come around on her own. Then there was Pixie, her sibling, who was purring on day two and allowing pets. Magilla, the other sibling, was very distrustful and the most scared. It took her about three weeks before I heard a purr. Once you hear that purring, you are home free


They are all different and what works for about 90% of them won't work for the other 10%. Some are just easier and more willing to accept human companionship than other's. I hope Indy is an easy one

I really wish I could help you with this kitten. If I come up with anything, I will let you know right away. You have a wonderful heart in helping these cats. I do know how overwhelming it can be to have a big heart like that....... Wish we could save them all, would be impossible, but we can help one kitty at a time



and that is a start.....
