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Last Stop Before Pound

post #1 of 27
6/15/10 at 3:51pm
Thread Starter 
I'm taking over the care of my daughter's cat for a while. She is ready to take the cat to the pound. I want to help, but I need help here.
1. Her cat pees (not sprays). She had two complete medical workups from two different vets. She is in fine health.
2. She pees (not poos) in the upper portion of my daughter's bed, and on the chairs in the apartment. My daughter sent the cat to her ex boyfriend as he knows her. However, the boyfriend sent her back in a month with no luck. The cat came back so fat that my daughter stopped feeding wet food which the cat expected at 4 a.m. when the cat woke. When my daughter went to add more dry food to the bowl, the cat peed in front of her. She thought the cat was expecting her wet food at 4 .m. My daughter worked from home but her company then required her to commute every day. She feels this contributes. This has been going on for a few years.
I want to give the cat the best chance possible.
1. Ordered Feliway
2. Will stay at home as much as possible and keep the cat in the same room with me as much as possible.
3. Have a litter box on each floor. Will use the same litter (although it is Trader Joe's with pine scent, but it is the only thing the cat has ever used). Bought litter boxes with no hoods. Will use the same liners.
4. Should I continue with only dry food (she eats Trader Joe's dry)? I don't want to get up at 4 a.m. every morning to start feeding her wet food again so she doesn't pee.
5. Never saw anything on this site, but I ordered a cat playpen (52") in hopes I can put food, litterbox and toys inside to try and train her.
6. Will stop using catnip and cat grass in case it excites her too much.
7. Want to take her in a cat container with me when I go out so she will be with me all the time and not feel abandoned.
8. Will close the shade where there are birds outside in case that contributes to her peeing
9. I have to go to my other house about once a week to pick up my mail. It is a condo complex and animals are not allowed. What should I do? It is about a 3 hour drive each way. Should I take the cat with me in a playpen?
10. True confession-I am a dog person and have no other frame of reference for taking care of cats. I ordered the book Think Like a Cat. I'm sure some of the above are wrong, so please straighten me out so I can provide the best care possible for this cat.
11. I want to be proactive and not reactive, so I'm trying to think of all the positives things I can get ready for her for when she comes. I would be grateful for any help. The cat will be here in about 2 weeks.
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post #2 of 27
6/15/10 at 4:05pm
Well first, you need the MOM OF THE YEAR AWARD!

Most sounds like a good plan, except the carrying the cat around with you. Cats get stressed too easily by being moved around places so that would likely be counterproductive. Containing the cat and box and water in a small room while you are out would be a better option.

Drop the DRY food if you want the cat to lose weight. Do several small feedings a day of wet food instead.

You might want to pick up some Cat Attract Litter Additive to add to the litterbox. It makes it almost irresistible to cats to use the box when that is added.

I'm sure a bunch of more knowledgeable folks will be around soon. We love challenges, so you've come to the right place for help!

Good luck!

Cally
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post #3 of 27
6/15/10 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 
Cally,
Thanks. So it would be better to put her in a room with water, food and litter for 7 hours while I drive to get my mail?
I thought cats should have food available all the time, which I thought meant dry food in a bowl all the time. I guess my question is how to get away from her peeing when she expects wet food every morning at 4 .m. I'll do whatever it takes, but it seems like to reintroduce wet food would open the door for the cat to start wanting it at 4 a.m. every morning again.
I'll get some Cat Attract Litter additive tomorrow.
If I can get your advice sorted out in my mind I can better think through each suggestion. Thanks so much for your help and for your compliment.
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post #4 of 27
6/15/10 at 4:25pm
Hi again,

Cats absolutely don't need food out all the time. They do, however, need 2 or 3 feedings a day, be it wet or dry (preferably wet.) Just what they will eat in 5-10 minutes. As for her demanding the food at 4 am, I think since she's coming to a totally new environment, you will be able to set the schedule. Feeding a "bedtime snack" might help. Exercise and play every evening will also help.

Yes, keeping the cat confined for 7 hours is fine. Better than her riding terrified in a car for 7. Or, how about getting your mail forwarded to you?

Cats aren't like dogs (I have both). They don't need the constant attention and affirmations like a dog. Mine all love attention, but in smaller doses for the most part. They are much more independent and easy to satisfy.

You might also experiment with some different cat litters, although I don't really see that as the problem. Is the cat declawed?

Cally
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post #5 of 27
6/15/10 at 5:02pm
Thread Starter 
Great! Thanks! I'm just soaking in all this information. No, she's not declawed. I bought a stick with rough stuff all over it today for her to scratch on, and I asked my daughter to trim her nails right before she comes as I would be too worried to cut her nails myself.
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post #6 of 27
6/15/10 at 5:11pm
You might want to try the boxes with and without the liners. The only time my cat Jack has ever gone outside of the box was when I started using box liners. He hated them and immediately let me know, though it took me a few days to figure out what he didn't like.
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post #7 of 27
6/15/10 at 5:16pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, I'll keep that in mind and watch closely. Thanks
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post #8 of 27
6/15/10 at 5:41pm
Is she spayed?

Some cats don't like pine scent. You might want to try a different brand and offer each one in a different box and see which one she prefers.

I also hate liners. Try going without---it's much easier, IMO.

Most cats like cardboard scratchers. Also sisal. Any upright post should be very sturdy; if it falls over, they'll never go near it again.

I agree with not taking her with you everywhere.Most cats don't like this and it would be very stressful. Some cats do like going places, if she's one of those you can try it but most cats would freak out.

Congrats for saving this kitty!
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post #9 of 27
6/15/10 at 6:21pm
You should get two litter boxes. Generally it's recommended to have one average size box per cat plus one extra, so for one cat you need two boxes. Some cats don't like to pee and poop in the same box. Don't put them side by side because cats tend to perceive that as one large box.

It would be great if you can get her started off right in her new home using the litter boxes all the time. If that doesn't happen, you'll need to have a good enzyme cleaner. Any time she pees outside the box, thoroughly clean the area (carpet, couch, bed linens, whatever) with the enzyme cleaner. Regular cleaners don't work because even if you can't smell the pee any more, the cat still can. She'll tend to go back the the same place every time.

I would leave the blinds open so she can see the birds. It's like kitty TV. Another cat in the area is more likely to precipitate inappropriate peeing than bird watching.

Good luck with your new kitty. What is her name? Just a word of warning. You'd better watch out or the next thing you know she'll turn you into a cat lady.
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post #10 of 27
6/15/10 at 6:34pm
Quote:
3. Have a litter box on each floor. Will use the same litter (although it is Trader Joe's with pine scent, but it is the only thing the cat has ever used). Bought litter boxes with no hoods. Will use the same liners.
This stands out to me. One reason for litter box avoidance is a dislike of the litter. If this is the only thing she has ever used, and she doesn't use it, the litter needs to be changed.

Go to a regular clay litter in at least one of the boxes. all that shuffling around from home to home has not helped either. Poor kitty, no stabilization in her life at all. Cats hate change.

Thank you for caring. I hope you will give this kitty the forever home and love and patience she so desperately needs.
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post #11 of 27
6/15/10 at 6:37pm
Even tho you say shes been on pine her life I would do a box of scoopable clay-freshstep or something, next to the reg pan of litter. Reason is my cats would rather hold it then use those pines...I tried a few times over the years to mix in pine and I'd have cats either holding it or going on the floor. also I cant see those things as being comfortable to stand on!
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post #12 of 27
6/15/10 at 7:00pm
Thread Starter 
Her name is Bella.
So I'll get some clay litter tomorrow. Do you mean the brand name Fresh Step? I saw it in Wal Mart today. If not that, will the package say clay litter? I guess the ingredients should include "clay".
I'll return the liners-maybe I'll keep one pack.
Could you recommend a brand name enzyme cleaner?
Yes, it will work to keep the blinds open on the second floor doors. She wouldn't see another cat on the second floor and could look out the window at the trees and birds.
She is spayed.
Are the scratchers you mention flat and look like corregated cardboard? I saw them. Maybe I should take the scratch post back and buy the flat scratchers? The scratch post has about a 6 inch base, and maybe she could tip it over. I'm not sure. I just want to set up everything right for her.
I'll try a short ride after a week or two to see if she likes it or if she freaks out.
Thanks for all your help.
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post #13 of 27
6/15/10 at 7:20pm
I just wanted to say how nice you are to give the kitty a chance! I hope everything works out.

My older kitty LOVES the cardboard scratchers!
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post #14 of 27
6/15/10 at 7:28pm
At walmart they should have a red bag of special kitty-that is the most basic litter made(no scents and that is not scoopable-when the cat goes it sorta turns to a mud) Walmart also sells thier own brand of scoopable-might be in a green box. Freshstep scoopable is just a name brand with better odor control. If it says scoopable that is the type of litter that pess turns into decent clumps that youd scoop out every day and change as needed the clay you just change everyday or what works for you.
The corragated scratchers are a good hit with many cats, the emery board ones seem to be accquired taste with my cats(have 24 and 3 baby kittens) If you have a big lots around check every so often they get NICE cat trees in for 40-80. I came from petsmart last night and they have some trees on sale. I actually am getting one for my moms kitten shes taking home in few months.
Also not sure what cage you got but I have a few from ebay.com IRIS 903 they are 6 feet tall. good for adult cats who can jump-the perches are spaced out 2 feet apart and the bars to little for kittens
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post #15 of 27
6/15/10 at 8:46pm
Hi there -
First of all, thank you so much for giving this baby a chance!!
Like the othrs, I agree 100% in changing the litter - and to add to that, IMO your best bet would be Cat Attract LITTER - not the additive, but the straight litter... You can buy it at Pet Smart, Pet Supplies Plus, and many more petstores - you can find a store here; they also have a rebate for your first bag free - you can have it here. This litter is really amazing, and it will make a world of difference...
Also, the kitty is coming to a new home, so normally it is good to leave him, or her for a couple of days in a small room with a litter box, food and water, before letting her explore the rest of the house. They just feel safer this way. For stressed out kitties, a hiding space inside of the room is greate - a box, something they can hide behind or inside.
Since this kitty has already this problem, what I would advise is to leave her in this room untill you see that she uses the litter box 100% of the time. Then give her access to another room, then another, and so on depending on your confdence on her litterbox use.
There is a chance she just hates this litter - I used pine litter once in my house, and that is when my kitty Lucky, who NEVER had litterbox problems developed an issue... It was a pain to get rid of, but we got there...
Anyway, I think if you start from the beginning in the right note you will do just fine and you just might find out that there is no such a thing as a "dog person" just a person who was never really owned by a cat!
Oh, feliway can help you greatly - I would specially put it on the room when she arrives

Good luck!
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post #16 of 27
6/15/10 at 9:05pm
Thread Starter 
Wow!! Thank you guys. I have a lot more confidence now. I'll get to work tomorrow on getting the correct things for Bella. I want to welcome her into my home and want her to be happy from the first minute she arrives, which is really important to me. I appreciate everyone's help.
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post #17 of 27
6/15/10 at 9:42pm
I am so happy you are giving Bella a chance.
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post #18 of 27
6/16/10 at 12:12am
Quote:
True confession-I am a dog person
I bet in no time you'll be a major cat person with eight rescued cats running around the house...or maybe that was me. I was a 100% dog person until a few years ago. I always liked cats but still preferred dogs. Then one day I ended up with a litter of homeless kittens, and then another litter, a few adults, a few more adults, and before I knew it I had joined the "crazy cat lady club". A lot of people I know started out the same way. Cats really are wonderful creatures.

Quote:
Are the scratchers you mention flat and look like corregated cardboard? I saw them. Maybe I should take the scratch post back and buy the flat scratchers?
The flat cardboard scratchers are great so I'd really recommend getting a couple and put them in different locations. Trader Joe's sell double-wide cardboard scratchers for less than $7 which is a really good price.
Don't get rid of the post though. It's best to have different kinds of scratchers so I recommend that you have both the cardboard kind and a post. Preferably you should have several scratchers in several places in your house so that kitty doesnt' have to go too far to scratch and end up scratching your furniture instead.

As far as the litter goes I would get several different kinds of litter and have a number of litterboxes in the house with different kinds of litter in them so that kitty has a choice. There are a lot of different kinds of litter out there so try and see what she likes best. I prefer to use clumping clay litter and my cats are okay with it too. You can also get non-clumping clay litter which is cheaper but you have to get rid of the old litter and put in new litter more often.
You could also try using regular sand or dirt from the yard to see if Bella will like that. Also try things that is not litter like putting a pee pad in or a towel in a litter box and see if she uses that.
I'd also recommend using both open and covered litterboxes to see which she likes best. You can get cheap, good open boxes at dollar stores.

If the new litters and other things doesn't work the peeing issue could be due to anxiety. If that's the case you may want to try to put the kitty on anxiety medication.

I also wanted to say how wonderful I think it is that you have taken this little girl in and are willing to work with her. I wish there were more people in the world like that.
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post #19 of 27
6/16/10 at 3:10am
I really can't add anything except to agree with the advice given.

Dry food packs the pounds on. I would keep the shades up so the cat has some stimulation and isn't board. Pine litter, IMO, is messy and smelly. IMO I would go with a clumping litter. Clay is hard to keep clean and offers little odor control.

Take her with you now and then, but not as a regular thing. She will be calmer at home in her own environment.

Keep us posted. You are a great mom!
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post #20 of 27
6/16/10 at 7:25am
I strongly recommend switching to Cat Attract litter, rather than a simple clay litter. With 10 older cats and many of them with chronic medical conditions, I walk a very skinny rope when it comes to litter box use here. I keep Cat Attract in 75% of my boxes with another scoopable litter in the rest. Some of mine like 1 brand of litter and others use only the Cat Attract boxes.

I've done side by side tests of litter in the past. I'll put one brand in a box and place that box next to another box with a different litter. Cat Attract has won every time.

Since you've ruled out medical issues, then my guess is that you have a litter avoidance issue - she doesn't like the litter, or the box, or the liners, or where you've placed the boxes.

Lose the liners. Buy oversized Rubbermaid/Sterilite bins (they are cheaper than actual litter boxes), as some cats really love big boxes. Keep lids off your boxes to see if she doesn't like covered boxes. Then switch brands and do a side by side test if necessary (or just go straight to Cat Attract).
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post #21 of 27
6/22/10 at 5:05pm
So how's everything going with this "project"?
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post #22 of 27
6/22/10 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by otto View Post
This stands out to me. One reason for litter box avoidance is a dislike of the litter. If this is the only thing she has ever used, and she doesn't use it, the litter needs to be changed.

Go to a regular clay litter in at least one of the boxes
My sentiments exactly. Over the years I've tried my cats on different types of cat litter. All of them hate pine litter.

We found a really good one at Pets at Home (Petsmart). I've just had a look at Petsmart's site in America and they don't look like they've got it - must only be available in the UK. It's clay based and it's antibacterial. It is also a good price. My cats prefer it to anything else.

Another thing I would do is give her her main meal just before you go to bed. This is what we do with our cats (because of the silly hours we used to work). Cats usually don't eat all their meal in one sitting so giving her the main meal last thing at night should keep her going and if she feels hungry, there will be food in her bowl.

My cats, some indoor cats, some outdoor/indoor are always in by 11pm because they know they get fed round about that time. After they've been fed, they do what cats are best at - have a good wash then curl up and sleep. That way you get a good night's sleep too
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post #23 of 27
6/22/10 at 6:50pm
We have a cat that needs to lose weight. The advice you've been given is correct - she will lose weight better/faster when being fed only wet food. Our cats were used to free feeding, and I was terrified about pulling up the food, but for Billy's health, I had to.

I have from the vet how much of the food I feed each cat should have in a 24-hour period - I'm going with a combo of wet and dry. I feed wet meals three times a day (dividing up the 24-hour amount into three meals - it looks like very little food, but they're not complaining!) - morning, sometime in the afternoon, and at night. For the dry, I measure out their 24-hour portion in a bowl for each individual cat (we have seven). I set the dry food bowls down a couple of times a day - let them eat whatever they want (except for the fat cat, I pick his up so he doesn't eat it all in one sitting), then pick up the bowls. I watch to make sure they don't eat from each other's dishes - as they're done, I pick up the bowl and store them in a kitchen cabinet. They're used to nibbling a little bit frequently, but they seem to be adjusting just fine... and they go 10 hours or so overnight (12 sometimes on the weekends LOL) without freaking out.

Ours LOVE LOVE LOVE the horizontal cardboard scratchers!

...and I highly recommend having a number of litter boxes - at first, more than just one on each floor. I'd even put two next two each other each place. I would also recommend having at least some of them filled with Cat Attract litter. I wouldn't use the additive - I'd go with the full strength litter.

As to the best enzyme cleaner - we've used them all. There are two excellent ones. One is Anti-Icky Poo - though we go for volume (and we use it for all kinds of cleaning, because it's great for a zillion things), so we use Nok-Out. It is not sold in stores - I don't think Anti-Icky Poo is either. They are both pretty expensive, but definitely worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.catfaeries.com for Anti-Icky Poo and
http://www.nokout.com for Nok Out.

I also recommend the house already have a bunch of Feliway sprayed around before she arrives (not near the litter boxes).

...and to help ease her stress, I would buy Bach's Rescue Remedy. We have small water dishes everywhere (and I mean like the kind of thing we humans use to put dip in or something). I wash them daily, and when I put in the new water, I add 5 drops of Rescue Remedy to each one. The cats all actually started drinking more water after we started using the Rescue Remedy.

You are one great mom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! for this!!!!
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post #24 of 27
6/22/10 at 7:17pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for asking. I have everything in place. I'm just waiting for my daughter to get Bella here from San Francisco to San Diego.
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post #25 of 27
6/22/10 at 7:59pm
OH! A couple of last minute thoughts on the dog vs. cat thing. With dogs, you reach out palm up - with cats, it's best to do it palm down. Initially, don't try to look her in the eyes, this is a sign of aggression. Look at her forehead. In fact - closing your eyes slowly and then opening them slowly while looking in her direction is a sign of trust - and at some point she may start "slow" blinking back at you.

When she arrives, it's best to let her loose in one room only for a few days, and it should have some hidey places. Under a bed, a box on its side - cats are all about territory. They can and do form very close bonds with people, but when they move places and people, she'll do much better having a smaller territory to make "hers" at first. All the new space that smells strange and she doesn't know would be overwhelming. When she's comfortable in HER space, then open the door and let her explore at her pace. She may be comfortable right away - some cats are - but it's better to give her the small space first and see if she wants out rather than overwhelm her.

The first few days, if she's scared of all the changes happening to her/around her, then let her make "her" room her safe space. And spend what time in there you can - down at floor level if possible. Reading out loud, singing, sewing, folding laundry on a towel - whatever - just letting her get used to all the new sights and sounds and "see" how scary you aren't. And feeding her on a schedule will go a long way to helping her understand her needs are going to be met. She may not be happy about being on a diet - but the sooner you get her new schedule and amounts of food down, the happier you'll both be in the long run.

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post #26 of 27
6/22/10 at 8:13pm
Thread Starter 
Great information. Thanks so much
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post #27 of 27
6/23/10 at 7:05am
Kudos to you for rescuing the cat. I, too, am a dog person who was clueless how to care for my daughters new cat. After a couple of weeks of the cat pooping in my bed 3-4 times a day, I learned that something as simple as moving the box can do wonders. Our cat was apparently freaked out by the box being too secluded, and after trying every litter on the market and 3 different types of boxes, we moved it to an open wall, added cat attract litter, and voila-not one accident since.
And having a room that the dog can not get to but the cat can free roam works well, too. We have baby gates on our bedroom and her litter box and food/water are in there. So she can get away from the dog and our kids, that made a huge difference in the stress level as well. She spent the first few weeks in there, but now sleeps with the dog (a boxer)and runs circles around the kids.
And adding some serious playtime followed by a meaty snack right before bedtime changed our girl from a night roamer to a pillow sleeper for most of the night.
Ours loves the cardboard scratcher and I made her several scratching posts from 4x4's covered in sisal rope and plywood bases for next to no money. Keep lots of scratching posts of different shapes and sizes everywhere!
I am learning that cats are polar opposites from dogs. Dogs are easy, and cats are more like having more children. Have hope and good luck.
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