Our older cat (3 1/2), has turned against our younger cat, 2. This seems to have escalated when younger cat was in heat (before being belatedly fixed). Both are female (we have no other pets), and both are indoor cats. Older cat now avoids younger cat, hisses/growls at her, and has begun peeing on carpets rather than using litter box. We're on verge of having her put down or setting her free outside. Oy! Any brilliant suggestions?
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2 Cat Conflict
post #2 of 16
3/8/10 at 6:06pm
- yayi
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Have your cats been checked by your veterinarian? This could be a health issue, not a behavioral one.
post #3 of 16
3/9/10 at 6:33am
I would try isolating this kitty in a room by herself with her own litter box to see if you can get her to use a separate box. Then if successful, proceed from there. She at least needs to be in a room where there is no carpet on the floor.
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Did that. She returned to the same behavior after being let out. Has her own litter box (in basement), but tends to stay in our bedroom all day, and wants to use rug instead of going to litter box.
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No, they haven't. Not sure how this could be medical--though older cat does seem like she could use a good psychiatrist.
post #6 of 16
3/9/10 at 2:15pm
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Cats are very good at hiding their illnesses. Some cats tend to be more aggressive when they sense another is not well. Also, another reason for not using the litterbox is UTI or urinary tract infection.
post #7 of 16
3/10/10 at 5:03am
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No, they haven't. Not sure how this could be medical--though older cat does seem like she could use a good psychiatrist.
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Believe me, I thought my cat madison was behavioral about his peeing until the day he peed blood. His timing always seemed to be when he was frustrated or I had played with the dog more, but it turned out he has struvite and oxalite crystals, had a uti and a couple weeks later, ended up in a life or death situation because he had developed a urethral blockage. that wa a $300 3 day stay at the vets office, and I know I could have prevented it sooner if I had just gone ahead and had the urinalysis done, even though I didn't think there was a medical issue.
further, I would like to hope that your first statement about letting her lose or having her PTS was a joke, if its that dire of a situation please re-home the cat instead of terminating her life for a mild inconvenience.
post #8 of 16
3/10/10 at 7:35am
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We're on verge of having her put down or setting her free outside.
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And if you were not kidding then you don't belong with cats. Get a fish or something.
post #9 of 16
3/10/10 at 8:48am
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IMHO: After medical issues are ruled out and all the pee spots are treated with enzymatic cleaners (to discourage kitty from peeing there again), you may need to add another litter box (or 2 - ideally there should be 1 litter box per cat plus an extra and they should be cleaned 2x a day. Are the litter boxes kept clean?) and work on reintroducing your kitties - getting positive scent associations with eachother, using Feliway diffusers, etc. If you need links for articles ask - there's some good articles here about rintroducing kitties.
Good luck.
Good luck.- teemley
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Even if you were just kidding, I don't appreciate people joking about that stuff. Putting a cat to sleep is a very serious thing. It's only been about 3 weeks since I HAD to put my 15 year old cat to sleep because he was dying and having to do it nearly killed me. I raised him from a little baby and he's the closest being I've ever had to lose in death. I miss him more than I've ever missed anyone who has left my life and I don't think I'll ever stop hurting over losing him. When people are so flippant about something that is so very serious, it really makes me angry.
And if you were not kidding then you don't belong with cats. Get a fish or something. |
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Any time a cat pees out of the litter box it should raise a red flag. to be on the safe side it will not hurt to have a urinalysis done, she could be blaming the other box for her pain if its hurting her when she pees.
Believe me, I thought my cat madison was behavioral about his peeing until the day he peed blood. His timing always seemed to be when he was frustrated or I had played with the dog more, but it turned out he has struvite and oxalite crystals, had a uti and a couple weeks later, ended up in a life or death situation because he had developed a urethral blockage. that wa a $300 3 day stay at the vets office, and I know I could have prevented it sooner if I had just gone ahead and had the urinalysis done, even though I didn't think there was a medical issue. further, I would like to hope that your first statement about letting her lose or having her PTS was a joke, if its that dire of a situation please re-home the cat instead of terminating her life for a mild inconvenience. |
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IMHO: After medical issues are ruled out and all the pee spots are treated with enzymatic cleaners (to discourage kitty from peeing there again), you may need to add another litter box (or 2 - ideally there should be 1 litter box per cat plus an extra and they should be cleaned 2x a day. Are the litter boxes kept clean?) and work on reintroducing your kitties - getting positive scent associations with eachother, using Feliway diffusers, etc. If you need links for articles ask - there's some good articles here about rintroducing kitties.
Good luck. |
Yes, I'd LOVE more info on re-introducing them to each other, Feliway, etc. Thanks!
post #13 of 16
3/10/10 at 9:25am
Hope you can figure it out! No major advice from me though
When we spayed our younger cat, our older suddenly became very agressive towards her...lots of hissing and growling and fighting. I'm not sure what the issue was but they managed to sort it out themselves after a few weeks
When we spayed our younger cat, our older suddenly became very agressive towards her...lots of hissing and growling and fighting. I'm not sure what the issue was but they managed to sort it out themselves after a few weeks
post #14 of 16
3/10/10 at 11:45am
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KillerApple: We've used special cleaners (made for cat-soiled spots) where she peed/pooped in our living room multiple times. It didn't work, so we closed off our living room with a board; she moved into our bedroom, and started to pee/poop on the bathroom rug. She leaves to eat, but often encounters our other cat, growls/hisses, and then runs back to our bedroom. Can you recommend a better rug cleaner?
Yes, I'd LOVE more info on re-introducing them to each other, Feliway, etc. Thanks! |
Here's some info about Feliway:
http://www.feliway.com/us/Frequently-Asked-Questions
Please keep in mind that it is quite expensive at a store but basically half price on Amazon. I have been using Feliway the past several months - currently working on socializing a feral.
The kitty may not recognize the cat after the spay due to a change in scent from vet's office. You may want to try dabbing a bit of vanilla extract under their chins and at the base of their tail on their back - that will make them all smell the same.
Search for 'vanilla extract' on the forums and you will find threads that explain that better. This thread about cat introductions will have a lot of relevant information that can help in that regards, with scent swapping, etc, in case there is an issue:http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67321
Here's a great article about inappropriate peeing:
http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...&threadid=9563
Another thought is just making sure there's enough vertical space/hiding areas so there are other options to flea to other than your room. Kitty must feel safe and have a potty area easily accessible in safe areas. If kitty is too scared to venture out to use litter box in basement, that would make sense to use litter box in safe bedroom hiding place. So hopefully things like the cat re-intros/Feliway/more litter boxes/more hidey places/vertical space will help.

Please don't give up on your kitty.
Many people have gone through this before and will be able to help you out. 
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I haven't ever had to use an enzymatic cleaner but from what I've read, they're not all created equal. A lot of people on this forum swear by Nok-Out which must be ordered online. (Maybe someone else can chime in about that.) With such good noses, the kitty may still smell that pee/poop thus continuing to use the rug. Maybe put a litter box in your room for now and remove the rug until the fear/stress is resolved?
Here's some info about Feliway: http://www.feliway.com/us/Frequently-Asked-Questions Please keep in mind that it is quite expensive at a store but basically half price on Amazon. I have been using Feliway the past several months - currently working on socializing a feral. The kitty may not recognize the cat after the spay due to a change in scent from vet's office. You may want to try dabbing a bit of vanilla extract under their chins and at the base of their tail on their back - that will make them all smell the same. Search for 'vanilla extract' on the forums and you will find threads that explain that better. This thread about cat introductions will have a lot of relevant information that can help in that regards, with scent swapping, etc, in case there is an issue:http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67321 Here's a great article about inappropriate peeing: http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...&threadid=9563 Another thought is just making sure there's enough vertical space/hiding areas so there are other options to flea to other than your room. Kitty must feel safe and have a potty area easily accessible in safe areas. If kitty is too scared to venture out to use litter box in basement, that would make sense to use litter box in safe bedroom hiding place. So hopefully things like the cat re-intros/Feliway/more litter boxes/more hidey places/vertical space will help. ![]() Please don't give up on your kitty. Many people have gone through this before and will be able to help you out. ![]() |
post #16 of 16
3/11/10 at 10:15am
- killerapple
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Thanks SO much for the suggestions and links! We'll apply what we learn ASAP. You've been a great help!
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