I just love antiques!!! Finding something like that is always great! Makes you feel kinda unique.
|Mine are pretty fragile, not sure how they'd hold up if I donated them. They're all yellowed and thin. Hubby wants to make a scrap book of them, although I'm not sure how to go about it so as not to ruin them.
As for preserving them, do a yahoo search...
I found this on preserving them:Causes of Damage
Papers made from wood fibres are vulnerable to heat, light, dampness, and airborne pollutants, all of which can speed up the chemical reactions that weaken the paper and cause it to discolour and become brittle.
Dampness promotes the growth of mould and mildew, and can attract insect pests such as silverfish and book lice.
Silverfish feed on mould and starchy materials found on paper, especially if it is stored in a cool, moist environment. A silverfish infestation will roughen and weaken paper.
Book lice feed on mould spores found on paper and cardboard. These lice thrive in heat and humidity and, although they do not cause visible damage, their squashed bodies and excretions can stain paper and may also nourish other pests, continuing the cycle of damage.
Light (especially fluorescent light and sunlight) promotes chemical degradation and may fade many inks. Light exposure from repeated photocopying, scanning, and flash photography can cause additional damage.
Frequent or careless handling can lead to tears, folds, creases, and abrasions. The oil from human hands can stain or transfer dirt to the surface of paper.
Lamination can be harmful. In addition to the damage caused by the heat and adhesives used in the lamination process, many plastics will turn yellow, become brittle, and produce acids that attack paper.
For documents in good condition (not badly soiled or damaged), the surface can be lightly dusted with a soft brush. Proceed carefully with this procedure as overcleaning can cause more damage than dirt. The wrong cleaning technique could permanently ingrain dirt that might have been removable. Objects with powdery, flaking media or sooty or mouldy deposits should not be brushed.
If a collection smells musty but there is no visible mould, dry out the objects and storage area with fans, space heaters, or by opening windows until the smell is gone.
If mould is discovered, do not attempt to treat the damaged documents yourself (mould spores are very difficult to remove thoroughly). Instead, wrap the mouldy papers in plastic and contact a conservator. Mould spores pose a hazard to other possessions, and some types cause acute and chronic health problemsPreserving Newspaper Articles & ClippingsI recomend testing this on a small piece first so you dont risk the entire collection of papers if it doesnt work. You must make sure that any info you find you have seen other places online also. Never do it right off without more research...it could permanently damage the newspapers.-GothicAmethyst
Dissolve a Milk of Magnesia tablet in a quarter cup of club soda overnight. Pour into a pan large enough to hold the flattened clipping.Soak the clipping for one hour, then pat dry.Do not move the clipping until completely dry. Estimated life: 200 yearsSteps for Preserving Documents
The basic premise for preservation of any clipping or photo is simple. Air and light do damage. Keep the documents enclosed, preferably in sealed archival quality page protectors, then keep in a box (archival quality storage box).
DO NOT LAMINATE!!! The glue will eventually start to eat away at the document.
Newspapers (but not photos!) must be deacidified, before you enclose them in plastic.
(Note - newspaper ink needs one full year to dry, so do not seal clippings from the past 365 days)
Enclose in an archival quality page protector (if using regular page protectors, purchase those with greatest thickness of plastic.)
Label on the outside of the page protector.
Store collection in a box, away from the lightHow can I repair a torn document?
Never use scotch, cellophane, masking, or duct tape to repair a tear or loss. They contain adhesives that the paper absorbs. As the adhesives age, they discolor, resulting in dark, disfiguring stains.
We generally recommend that a conservator be consulted before you undertake any repair, for the risk of exacerbating damage is high. A tear is repaired by attaching a long-fibered paper (e.g., Japanese tissue) mend to the non-image side with wheat starch paste, rice starch paste, or methyl cellulose. All are non-yellowing and removable. Typically a wet line is made on the repair paper and it is then torn to create a fibrous, rather than sharp, edge. The paper should be slightly wider and longer than the tear. Apply paste to the paper, attach it to the tear area, and smooth the paper. Weight the area and allow it to dry completely on a flat surface. (To keep the repair flat, conservators create a â€œsandwichâ€ on the drying surface consisting of HolleytexÂ® â€“ piece â€“ HolleytexÂ® - blotter paper - plate glass - weight. HollytexÂ® is a spun polyester sheet to which paste does not readily adhere.) If these materials are unavailable, dry the piece by exposure to the air and accept the slight planar distortions that will occur.All of this I found in a few mins doing a yahoo search it's bits and pieces cut and pasted from other sites....sorry so long..I just like to preserve history and I wanted to help. I hope this is enough to get you started
A few other sites that may be usefull:
Keepsake handbook-how to make keepsake books: http://www.jvtpubs.com/pages/keepsake.htm
Paper conservation Q&A:http://www.interealm.com/tudhope/q_and_a/paper.htm