Introducting cat to dog - am I doing this right?

looseringsnaffl

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
3
Purraise
0
Hello!

Well, let me preface this by saying I am a dog and horse expert...but not so much a cat one! I know how to medicate and treat them (I'm a vet tech), but when it comes to behaviour, I'm a bit behind the curve.

I have a 6 year old Bull Terrier. My boyfriend has a 9 month old Tortie. We've decided to move in together...and we want to do right by our furry children. My dog has lived in households with multiple dogs, multiple cats, birds, horses, and mice. The cat has lived alone since she was adopted by him.

The first step I took was allowing them to view each other through the glass door. The dog remained on a sit-stay, but the cat attacked the glass with exceptional violence. It was then that I realised this was going to be an interesting process.

But, we decided to trudge on into the fray. The next step I took was bringing the dog into the apartment...in his crate. Boyfriend secured the cat, I brought the dog in, put him in the kennel, then we let the cat go to investigate him on her own terms. She hissed and spat a bit, but I made sure to keep the dog from antagonizing her - he politely kept his eyes averted and eventually just fell asleep.

We've kept it like this for a while now. Cat seems to have calmed down a bit. I can now bring the dog into the apartment without someone securing the cat - she doesn't rush to attack him, etc.

Now, in the midst of all this, the cat has started to urinate on my boyfriend's clothes, my clothes, and on top of the dog food bag. I am fairly sure this is insecurity and a bit of territorial behaviour, and because of that, it doesn't bother me. She can ruin my things - I just want to make sure I'm doing right by her.

Last week we brought the dog out of the crate for the first time. I put him up on the sofa with us, and we acted like everything was normal. Cat came and investigated a little - a bit of a bottlebrush tail, but then she came around and laid down on the arm of the sofa next to the sleeping dog. The only strange part was that about an hour later, she disappears to go wander the apartment, and came back and jumped the dog! She bashed him around the head a bit, but the boyfriend was quick with the squirt water bottle, and the dog was too well mannered and surprised to do anything back. We waited until everyone was calm again before putting the dog away.

So, my question is this: are we doing this right? I've never introduced a dog to a cat who isn't familiar with dogs already. I don't want to put any more undue stress on either animal, but mostly on the cat (since my dog is very laid back and is content to just leave the cat alone). Ideally, I'd like to have the dog out of the crate in the evenings before we turn in for the night. Obviously they would never be together without supervision.

Given her initial aggressive response to the dog, do you think she will ever be okay sharing the apartment with him? The dog could care less. He's content to yield to cats at the water bowl, and on occasion will cuddle with them on the couch...other than that, he's happy just leaving them alone.

Are we okay to use the squirt bottle full of water just to have on hand in case of a ninja kitty moment?

Also, she is going in for her OHE tomorrow morning.


Thanks in advance. I welcome all advice, rebukes, and suggestions!
 

ldg

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Jun 25, 2002
Messages
41,310
Purraise
842
Location
Fighting for ferals in NW NJ!
Welcome to TCS.


I have never introduced cats and dogs, but there is an artcle in Cat Behavior (not the forum) about it: http://www.thecatsite.com/Behavior/5...s-to-Dogs.html

I know that just like with cat & dog intros separation is important. I know that controlling the dog, because they can be controlled, is important.

And I know you should lose the squirt bottle. It is not a good method for training cats. It just ends up getting them pissed off at you for squirting it, and can cause aggression or stress problems.

To stop a cat fight, we recommend coins in an empty can. I'd consider this as the alternative for the cat attacking the dog - the loud noise will startle the cat.

The scent swapping is REALLY important.

I wrote a long response about issues someone was having with two cats getting along. I'm going to post a link to it, because the principle is the same. The idea is to get the animals (especially the cat) associating "good things" with the dog - and to reward "good" behavior as much as discourage "inappropriate" behavior. See post #2: http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=195646

Give the cat vertical space. This will be important. Cat trees, cat condos, dedicated shelves, stuff built on walls...

Sorry - what is an OHE?

And as to the peeing? The cat is stressing. If she's not spayed, she needs to be. She needs a couple of boxes, so she doesn't have to worry about the dog. I would DEFINITELY add Cat Attract additive to the litter: http://www.entirelypets.com/catattract.html and I would DOUSE THE HOUSE with Feliway (nowhere near the litter boxes or appropriate places for her to scratch). (Feliway is a synthetic hormone that mimics the "friendly" markers in cats' cheeks and helps reduce stress).

Anything she has peed on MUST be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. They are not created equal. Everyone is raving about ZeroOdor, but it is expensive. We use this product: http://www.nokout.com/odorelim/pets/ Not only the furniture or carpets need to be doused with the enzyme cleaner, any clothes, throw rugs or bedding should be washed with it.

I'm sure others with actual experience will post!

Good luck!

Laurie
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3

looseringsnaffl

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
3
Purraise
0
Originally Posted by LDG

Welcome to TCS.


I have never introduced cats and dogs, but there is an artcle in Cat Behavior (not the forum) about it: http://www.thecatsite.com/Behavior/5...s-to-Dogs.html

I know that just like with cat & dog intros separation is important. I know that controlling the dog, because they can be controlled, is important.

And I know you should lose the squirt bottle. It is not a good method for training cats. It just ends up getting them pissed off at you for squirting it, and can cause aggression or stress problems.

To stop a cat fight, we recommend coins in an empty can. I'd consider this as the alternative for the cat attacking the dog - the loud noise will startle the cat.
Excellent, thank you. That's kind of what I thought - which is why the dog has been under lock and key and on a short leash when outside of the crate. I will do the coincan method from now on.

The scent swapping is REALLY important.

I wrote a long response about issues someone was having with two cats getting along. I'm going to post a link to it, because the principle is the same. The idea is to get the animals (especially the cat) associating "good things" with the dog - and to reward "good" behavior as much as discourage "inappropriate" behavior. See post #2: http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=195646
Awesome - will read the post and take good notes!

Give the cat vertical space. This will be important. Cat trees, cat condos, dedicated shelves, stuff built on walls...
Didn't even think about that...would be nice to get her something higher than the countertops. I'll head to Petsmart tonight.

Sorry - what is an OHE?
Sorry - she's getting spayed tomorrow! Ovariohysterectomy.

And as to the peeing? The cat is stressing. If she's not spayed, she needs to be. She needs a couple of boxes, so she doesn't have to worry about the dog. I would DEFINITELY add Cat Attract additive to the litter: http://www.entirelypets.com/catattract.html and I would DOUSE THE HOUSE with Feliway (nowhere near the litter boxes or appropriate places for her to scratch). (Feliway is a synthetic hormone that mimics the "friendly" markers in cats' cheeks and helps reduce stress).
A second litter box can definitely be added today. I am familiar with Feliway and someone told me the other day about a hormone/pheremone collar that works along the same lines as Feliway. Do you know anything about this?

Anything she has peed on MUST be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. They are not created equal. Everyone is raving about ZeroOdor, but it is expensive. We use this product: http://www.nokout.com/odorelim/pets/ Not only the furniture or carpets need to be doused with the enzyme cleaner, any clothes, throw rugs or bedding should be washed with it.

I'm sure others with actual experience will post!

Good luck!

Laurie
Great advice. Thank you for taking the time to type all of it out for me!!!!
 

ldg

TCS Member
Veteran
Joined
Jun 25, 2002
Messages
41,310
Purraise
842
Location
Fighting for ferals in NW NJ!
Never heard of the "feliway" collar! The only problem I can see with that is that it means the scent is everywhere the kitty is - and that scent is definitely not supposed to be in litter boxes or on scratching posts.

Think of the head of the kitty as having all the "friendly" scent areas - the cheeks, the top of the head - they mark "happy" spots with all of those. ...and then think of the back half of cats and their paw pads as having all the "territory" markers - they mark territory with their urine, their feces, and their scratching. So it's important to have the right smells in the right places.


And I didn't know "vet tech" speak for spaying!


Laurie
 

zephyer78

TCS Member
Young Cat
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
62
Purraise
0
Hi I have a cat and 2 dogs, I kind of did the same thing as you. Kept them seperate for a little while then sloooowly put them together for supervised visitation. The only thing I did diffrent if to offer LOTS of treats to both when they were both being chill. Hope this helps and good luck.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6

looseringsnaffl

TCS Member
Thread starter
Kitten
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
3
Purraise
0
Originally Posted by LDG

Never heard of the "feliway" collar! The only problem I can see with that is that it means the scent is everywhere the kitty is - and that scent is definitely not supposed to be in litter boxes or on scratching posts.

Think of the head of the kitty as having all the "friendly" scent areas - the cheeks, the top of the head - they mark "happy" spots with all of those. ...and then think of the back half of cats and their paw pads as having all the "territory" markers - they mark territory with their urine, their feces, and their scratching. So it's important to have the right smells in the right places.


And I didn't know "vet tech" speak for spaying!


Laurie
Yeah, I thought about that, so I went with the Feliway diffuser instead, in the main part of the apartment. I also got a second litter box today! Even though our place is small, the Feliway is far away from the boxes. I put her food and water up on the counter so that when it comes time to start letting the dog into the apartment, she's adapted to the new food spot.
 
Top