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Brushing needs . . .

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hey, my Luna has long fur, and she's a kitten. What sort of brush would be good for her right now? Is there a different kind that would be better for her when she is an adult? Or should I stick with one type of brush all through her life? Thanks!!
post #2 of 8
Let me put this in Care & Grooming for you.
post #3 of 8
Hi VivA !

My venus has got long hair as well. i use a greyhound comb (see pix below.) It is the one that is metallic and it looks like a man's comb.

i also use a slicker brush for her undercoat.

i feel you can use these for her now and later. i bought a small slicker brush for her use now. Daisy has a bigger slicker brush.

post #4 of 8
I really love the Zoom Groom brush. I use it and am constantly amazed with the amount of hair coming off of the cats! All of my kitties, with the exception of Romeo, are short haired; he's a medium haired guy.
post #5 of 8
Buddy looks like a mop and, if I don't keep on him, he'll have dreadlocks. (Just what I need - a black-and-white Rasta cat).

I use a slicker brush on him and a fine-toothed steel comb. He had some mats, when I got him and I had to clip them. To keep from cutting skin, I slip the comb between skin and mat and cut across the top of the comb.
post #6 of 8
Like Shirley said... with the long hairs.
I like to start off with a good flea comb (metal) or similar wider tooth comb, like what she has pictured, to work out any possible matts, and to gently go through the long hairs. Starting from the neck area and down, I also like to gently brush their face and head.

Then I like to use a slicker brush. I like the metal slicker brushes but they really only work best on animals who have very thick coats other wise the wire brissels on them can hurt the animals skin if you are too rough, causing them to not like the grooming experience, (for this occasion slicker brushes also come in plastic with protective plastic tips!)
The slicker brush works on their undercoat, to circulate the oils over their skin and fur, as well as good for getting out loose hairs or shedding.

Then if you want, you can use a brush like this on the long hairs, which basically adds that extra classy PUFF like you see on the show dogs and cats.
post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
OK, well, I made Alex come to Petsmart with me today to get brushes. LOL I tested all of them on the inside of my forearm, since the skin there is sensitive, to see which ones were irritating.

I ended up getting a plastic-bristled slicker brush, and another brush like in the picture that Angel posted. (I thought a metal slicker brush might be too scratchy on her skin; Ragdolls don't have undercoats.) I also got a cat nail clipper and nail file that came in a package together, while I was at it. Hopefully I'll be all set in the brush department for awhile.

Thanks everyone, for your help.
post #8 of 8
Here is an article (extracted from http://www.animalforum.com/ggroom4.htm) for those who are interested:

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Are you using the right brush?

By Anjie Coates, AnimalForum.com staff

If you have a dog or a cat, you know they shed or can get matted. The best way to avoid the "tumbleweeds" of fur blowing through your home is to brush your pets. For each coat type, there is a brush that best suits it. Using the right brush will eliminate a great deal of the shedding.

Short-haired dogs and cats

The curry brush is designed for brushing short-haired dogs (such as Labradors, Rottweilers, Boxers, Beagles, Dobermans and Greyhounds) and short-haired cats. There are many different designs of the curry brush, and all of them work very well. To use the curry brush, rub it with the grain of the hair, against the grain (with less pressure), and in circles. Be sure to brush the legs and muzzle. For thicker-coated, short-haired dogs, you'll also need a shedding blade.

Thick-coated, short-haired dogs

A shedding blade is the best tool for thick-coated, short-haired dogs, such as German Shepherds, Huskies, Malamutes, Corgis, Shiba Inus, and thick-coated Labs, Rottweilers and others with the same coat type. To properly use a shedding blade, imagine peeling a carrot. Then, "peel" your dog. The shedding blade will make roughly the same noise as a carrot peeler. Use it with the grain of the hair, then against the grain of the hair (with less pressure). Always be sure to brush all of the dog. Some dogs who fit into the thick category have such thick coats they also require another brush called an undercoat rake.

Thick undercoated dogs and long-haired cats

The undercoat rake is designed for Huskies, Malamutes, Golden Retrievers, Corgis and other dogs with a very thick undercoat. It can also be used on long-haired cats, such as Persians and Himalayans, who have very dense undercoats. To properly use this brush, pull it along the grain of the coat, in a sweeping motion. Be sure to get down to the skin, but do not scratch the skin surface. Golden Retrievers and long-haired cats also require a slicker brush.

Long-haired dogs and cats

A slicker brush is designed for long-haired dogs (such as Golden Retrievers, St. Bernards, Keeshounds, Great Pyrennees, Lhasa Apsos, Shih-Tzus, Yorkshire Terriers, Bichon Frise and Cocker Spaniels) and cats. There are many that fit into this category, but far too many to mention. To properly use the slicker brush, you must keep in mind that you must brush all the way to the skin. That is the part that gets matted first. Lift an area of the coat, and brush with the grain of the hair, then brush against the grain, using less pressure. Be sure to brush all of the dog or cat, face and feet included. For some long-haired dogs, the rear seems to be a particular trouble spot. If you find that you have a problem getting the slicker brush down to the skin, because of coat thickness or matting, you'll need a dematting rake.

Long-haired dogs with matted areas

A dematting rake is to be used expressly for very thick or matted areas. This tool has long, thin, razor-like teeth, so that to remove the matting, there is less pulling and less pain for the dog. The only other alternative would be to shave the area out beneath the matting. This tool minimizes the strain on the animal, and makes them much happier. To use this tool, start at the top of the region you are working on and pick away as if you were teasing your own hair. This picking will loosen the coat, and after you have picked all through the area, then use the slicker brush to remove the dead coat.

Mid-length to long-haired dogs and cats

A metal comb is needed for all mid-length and long-haired cats and dogs. This is the way you will be able to tell if you are done brushing. (You don’t need to do it all at one time. You can do an area each day.) Run the comb through the animal's fur. If the comb goes through with the teeth all the way down to the skin, you have done well. If not, then you need to continue to brush that area. There are many styles of combs; find the one that suits you the best. If your pet’s hair is thin and fine, then find a fine-toothed, closely spaced comb; if your pet's hair is thick, then find a thick-toothed, wider-spaced comb. Be sure that the comb is reaching the skin, but do not scrape the skin. If you don't brush all the way down to the skin, the skin cannot breathe properly. Comb with the grain of the hair, all the mid- to long-haired areas of your pet.

The brush that most use, but should not. A pin brush is the brush you see in the supermarket with pins on one side and soft bristles on the other. This brush should only be used as a finishing brush to fluff the coat, or on dogs that are brushed daily and have no undercoat. It is also very handy for getting the dog or cat fuzz off the couch. Most owners have this brush, but it does not perform well in most cases. Stick with the brushes mentioned above if you want to do the best job!

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i feel that using the right groom tools is rather imperative.

Cheers! :beepals:
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