Hmmm... There are several Corn Snake Breeders that are Registered with the 'ACR' - American Corn Snake Registry in the East part of PA but not in the North West bit.
They will have a HUGE Reptile Expo in Hamburg if you can wait until October
You would have HUNDREDS to choose from & get the most stunning one with the personality you like best, they vary in price from table to table.http://www.pythons.com/hamburg/
Expo's are SO much fun. They have a gigantic one in Chicago, I love to go each year.
I also want to put in here that ALL of my snakes came from breeders or Expo's, however my 1st pet Corn Snake that started my obsession, was a wee' lil guy that came home with me from PetCo & has grown into the 5 year old guy he is today
& Yes, they eat Mice... Pinkies, Then Fuzzies, Then Hoppers, Then Mice, Phinius as an Adult (who will not grow any larger eats Jumbo Mice)
They eat FROZEN/THAWED Mice... Thus the Mice are Frozen, You Thaw Them and Provide them to them for feeding. Live ones can cause injury. (yes ones in the wild eat live ones
Clearly its something you'll have to be able to handle if you want to own one.
I put the Mouse in a baggie, in a bucket of warm water, it thaws for 10-30 mins (depending of Mouse size) I pull it out with wooden tongs & place it in Phinius's feeding container (he is fed in a seperate feeding container than is enclosure, as his enclosure has ASPEN *Pine can cause Upper Respertory Illness in Snakes* which could stick to the mouse and be injested while eating and cause his digestive tract to become impacted over time and just be a world of bad that one wants to avoid.
****SQUEEMISH???? Dont OPEN THESE LINKS*** Snake Eating Mice.
The larger he gets... the larger the mice.http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...PhinFuzzie.jpghttp://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...entlore/p2.jpghttp://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...lore/phin1.jpg
When I had my Buisness this was the Care Sheet Information that I had on my Website:Corn Snake Care
The Corn Snake or Red Rat Snake (Elaphe guttata) is a species of Rat Snake, popular in the pet trade because they are known for being smaller and less aggressive than other Rat Snake species. Their average adult length is about 4 feet long and they may live to be 30 years old in captivity. Corn snakes are ideal pets and are one of the most widely available snakes in the pet trade. They are a good choice for a beginner snake keeper due to the fact that Corn Snakes have a comparatively docile temperament, are robust, and are more tolerant of basic husbandry mistakes than most other snakes. Also, Corn Snakes are widely captive bred, so healthy specimens are readily available.
No matter how easily corn snakes can be kept, intensive research must be carried out before obtaining one, as their care needs are relatively complex. A vet that treats reptiles must also be sought beforehand, as few vets practice "exotic" medicine, and in an emergency you will not have time to look around for a vet.
The advice provided here is basic and not adequate reading on its own. Research should cover multiple sources, including books. Highly recommended is "The Corn Snake Manual" by Kathy & Bill Love. Always inquire in to the legality of corn snake ownership in your local jurisdiction. Certain jurisdictions outlaw the trade and/or ownership of native non-venomous species.Setting up a Vivarium
A basic vivarium (or "terrarium") for a corn snake should consist of at least: a 2-5 gallon or equivalent vivarium for a hatchling, a 10 gallon vivarium can comfortably house a Corn snake from hatchling to roughly 15-18 months of age a 20 gallon long or larger vivarium for an adult (30" x 12Â½" x 13") with secure screen cover, a suitable substrate (no pine or cedar, plain paper towels are suitable for hatchlings also shredded Aspen commonly is used) a heater, a water dish and a hide at both the warm and cool end. There are many varieties of housing for Corn Snakes out there, from Rack Systems to elaborate front opening enclosures, do your research and find what type of housing fits your situation best. The vivarium should be fully set up before obtaining a snake, as this will allow you to observe and adjust the temperatures so that the snake isn't too cold or too hot for any period of time.
A hide should be placed at each end of the temperature gradient, as this will allow the snake to thermo regulate without the fear of being forced out into the open. Hides can be as simple as cardboard boxes and should be replaced when soiled (along with the bedding immediately surrounding it.) A more natural look can be obtained by purchasing half-log hides and hides that resemble rock formations.Placement of a Vivarium
The correct placement of a vivarium can reduce stress. Incorrect placement may leave you with a nervous animal that does not live a full life. The vivarium should be:
Away from audio equipment such as stereos. Snakes "hear" through vibrations and the vibrations from a constant bass can upset them. If this cannot be achieved, then padding underneath the vivarium can help reduce the vibrations.
Away from rooms next to busy roads. Once again, the vibrations can cause stress to the snake.
Up off the floor to prevent drafts chilling your snake, and to prevent some inevitable vibrations.Feeding
Captive corn snakes should only be fed commercial mice, as wild caught prey can carry diseases or parasites. Sizes range from "pinkie" to adult, and most pet stores carry all sizes in both live and frozen varieties, the latter of which being the preferred choice as live mice can cause injuries. One can also obtain frozen mice or rats in bulk from an online distributor; this is most often the most cost effective approach. Frozen mice should be thawed completely before being offered. Mice should be slightly larger than the thickest part of the snake. Most feeding schedules vary from owner to owner. Hatchlings are often fed every 4-5 days and Adults are fed weekly or bi-weekly depending on the size of the snake. Here at CSI Corns, our snakes are on the following feeding schedule: Hatchlings are fed 1 pinkie every 5 days, once they advance to fuzzies they are fed every 6 days, next size up we offer rat pinkies every 7 days, next size up rat fuzzies every 10 days, finally when the snake is of size to eat rat weanlings, they are fed every 14 days. As stated, every owner chooses what schedule seems to work best for them and their snakes.Heating
A heat gradient must be provided so that the snake can thermo regulate. The warm end must have an ambient temperature of 80-85F. Temperatures that are too hot or too cold will result in an ill snake that cannot digest its meals properly.
Heat can be provided via a light bulb (it is wise to provide a guard for this so that the snake cannot touch it), an under tank heat mat or a ceramic heater. Heating devices should be controlled by rheostats or thermostats and monitored by a thermometer. Hot rocks should never be used. They cause a dangerous source of localized heat. Many snakes have been severely burned by these devices. In general belly heat seems to be preferred, therefore under tank heaters are the most widely used source of heating for owners vivariums. Here at CSI Corns we use under tank heaters monitored by digital thermometers regulated by rheostats.
Two thermometers should be used to measure temperature - simply guessing the temperature isn't adequate. Two thermometers - one at each end of the vivarium - will allow you to observe the heat gradient.Cleaning
Fecal matter and molting should be removed immediately. At least once a month a substantial cleaning should be performed, in which the bedding is replaced. The tank and everything in it should also be washed with a weak bleach solution during this time, as this will ensure that the environment stays relatively sterile and also helps prevent the growth of parasites.Handling
Although docile, corn snakes - like all animals - can be stressed by excessive handling. Not handling your specimen at all is also not advised as you may find yourself with a snake that reverts to being "wild" and cannot be handled at all. Handling your snake also lets you check for any abnormalities which may require the attention of a vet. Handling benefits your snake in that it exercises and can explore something other than its enclosure. Although snakes are not as intelligent as a dog or cat, environmental stimulation should be provided.
Corn snakes can be active when held and must be supervised constantly when out of their vivariums.
It is highly recommended that you do not handle your snake for at least two to three days after it has eaten, to allow it time to digest its food. Handling too soon after a feed will result in regurgitation, which can be serious.
The advice provided here is basic and not adequate reading on its own.
Research should cover multiple sources, including books. Highly recommended for starting out is "Corn Snakes: The Comprehensive Owners Guide" by Kathy & Bill Love. Always inquire in to the legality of corn snake ownership in your local jurisdiction. Certain jurisdictions outlaw the trade and/or ownership of native non-venomous species.
Sorry this is so long
Next to my kitties, Corn Snakes are my other love.