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Help! Cat's Last Chance - Page 2

post #31 of 43
Originally Posted by Brokenheart View Post
cat diiapers

Please don't give her away or, God forbid, euthanize her for this.
While I completly agree with your plea to save this cat I doubt diapers are an answer. She already has a small child and any cat I know would hate wearing a diaper as much as being pilled. Not to mention that would then require the cat to be bathed on a regular basis.
post #32 of 43
Oh this is a tough situation. I would try more litterboxes and a really good enzyme cleaning of all the previous areas.

I have two cats and four boxes because the don't like to share
post #33 of 43
Just to throw this out there. Declawed cats are known to be more aggressive fighters and biters than non-declawed cats and many are successful as full time outdoors cats. They can still climb trees to get away from dogs and use their back claws and teeth for fighting... Just a thought.
post #34 of 43
Absolutely. I think the ability of declawed cats to defend themselves is underestimated.

This is not a good idea, as a declawed kitty she would have no way of protecting herself outdoors other then her teeth if chased by a dog she would most likely die a horrible death much much worse then being humanely pts.
I strongly disagree with this. A cat living outdoors is likely to have many happy years. It's presumptive to think, if I can't take care of this cat, it's better off dead.

As for defending himself with only his teeth, I would like to introduce you to my cat, who though he has his claws never uses them -- he's a biter, and tough character.
post #35 of 43
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks for all the ideas!

As far as putting her outside, it really isn't an option for us. If you ignore the dogs in the area (and there is a pit bull next door), we live in a urban area and there are cars. I don't know any cat, declawed or not that can win a fight with a busy street. I think it would be irresponsible.

I am simply putting my foot down when it comes to cat diapers. I don't even think I need to explain the implications of something like that. Baths, never being able to leave the house just in case she needs to be changed, the cost, diaper rashes, etc. If she was really really old and needed something like that for a month or two that's one thing, but, I am not diapering a cat for the next 15 years.

As far as the baby being the cause. This all started 2 years before the baby was born. Not to mention, he's staying, so, she's going to have to get over it.

I can certainly add more boxes. So, we'll try that. And we have just recently started her on wet food with a cranberry softgel pill mixed in. The vet said she didn't have a UTI because he didn't find any white or red blood cells, just some slight crystals and slightly concentrated urine. He didn't think it was the cause, but, I figure wet food instead of dry and some cranberry can't hurt. They both seem to really like it, actually.

One question about getting her to take the pills. What do people do if they, say, want to go somewhere for a long weekend? I can get a neighborhood kid to scoop and feed them, but, where am I going to find someone who knows how to pill a cat? Do people kennel them like a dog? Wouldn't that stress them out further?
post #36 of 43
Try getting another pet owner to do it -- you can have a reciprocal agreement to help them out in exchange. When I went away and my cat was having to be pilled, my sister filled in. I showed her how once, and she did it.

Crystals are a sign of urinary problems, even if there's no UTI. Cranberry and wet food are a good idea, but if the cat is still eating non-urinary diet dry food, they're probably not going to make enough difference. I'd strongly recommend switching to all urinary diet, whether it's wet or dry. There are commercial varieties, if you don't want to go the prescription food route. I would give it a real chance to work -- a two-month trial on urinary diet, exclusively. And putting new water bowls in different places, or getting a water fountain, will get her to drink more. The concentrated urine indicates she may not be taking in enough moisture.

If your area is unsafe for outdoor cats, then you just have to call around or advertise to other areas, like surrounding suburbs or country. There's likely a sanctuary or rescue group there that would be willing to take her.
post #37 of 43
There's a lot of really, really constructive advice here, so I hope it's helping! I don't have any advice, but I did notice something in your first post; you said that it wasn't sanitary to have a toddler and cat urine on the floor. As long as the cat is healthy (no blood in urine, no infection in the urinary tract), urine is actually absent of infections agents. Feces is quite a different matter, but urine is "clean". You can probably train your toddler to alert you to urine on the floor and to also stay out of it.
post #38 of 43
I have 2 cats on medication. When we go out of town, I hire one of our vet techs as a pet sitter while we are gone. They know how to pill a cat.

My technique for pilling a cat (which I've done with feral cats with success):

Have the medication ready to administer. Kneel on the floor with your ankles crossed under your bottom. Place the cat between your thighs with their heads facing away from your body. The cat cannot escape backwards or to the right or left. Assuming you are right handed: place your left hand on the top of their head with your fingers on one side of their mouth and your thumb on the other. Gently open their mouth with your left hand and insert the medicine with your right, coming at them from a slight angle (e.g. don't insert the meds from straight on). I use a pill gun. Once the pill is in their mouth, place your right hand quickly under their chin toward their neck and lift their heads, stroking the neck until they swallow. If you don't get it in the first time, they are still captive and you can try again.

When you are done, give them a treat for a reward and love on them for a long while afterwards. They'll eventually relate being pilled to being loved.

There's only 1 cat in my life that I've not been able to pill (with scars to prove it). He got his meds crushed up in vanilla ice cream or yogurt, both of which he loved.
post #39 of 43
Hi, I just wanted to add to all the wonderful advice that has been given here.

About the cat litter that you use, the Scoopaway, I wonder if the perfume it contains is displeasing to your cat. Also keeping the litter box as clean as possible is very important. As has been mentioned, some cats are extremely picky and won't go if the box isn't clean.

Another thing is when actually cleaning out the litter box, it's preferable not to use harsh chemicals like bleach because even once it's rinsed out, the cats can still smell it for a long time, and to them, their box just doesn't "smell" like their box anymore. It's best to use dish soap and hot water.

Personally, I use and love Nature's Miracle cat litter. It's corn based so it's completely natural and it has a pine odor to it that is pleasant. It's also flushable, which is wonderful, and you only have to completely change out the box about once a month (at least, that's what I do).

I also use Nature's Miracle brand for the pee & poop stains. Heh heh, not the litter itself of course. That stuff is *awesome* and worth it's weight in gold!!!

Just shake the bottle really well, pour *generously* unto stained area, if possible remove excess of the stain first by blotting, then work into the area vigorously with your fingers (I always wear rubber gloves for this part and that's it!! No need to do anything else! Just leave it alone! The treated area will dry by itself and the stain will be gone as well as the odor!

If treating an area because of urine or spraying, make sure to pour very generously so the Nature's Miracle can seep down all the way through to the padding under the carpet. This *will* eliminate the odor and they won't spray there again.

This product *really* works!! I tried quite a few products before trying this one. A gallon sized will run you about $30, but it is *well* worth it. I'm never without it.

I hope the anti-depressants help your baby! Hang in there!

Extreme Kitty Lover
post #40 of 43
otoh - if you really like the Scoop Away, they do have an unscented one [i usually get this, but petsmart was out of it - so i got the unscented Exquisicat].
post #41 of 43
I am cat sitting for a lady right now. 2 of her cats are pilled in the AM & 3 in the PM. At one point, I was doing Sub Q fluids on her kitty, too.

You can hire a vet tech, or just find someone trustworthy. Check with your vet, that's how this lady found me.
post #42 of 43
I just got a great idea! Cats love dirt... they love the smell & they love using the bathroom in it. Try putting some dirt in her litterbox, mix about 1/4 dirt to 3/4 litter (because dirt doesn't do ANYTHING for smell). She may just suprise you! And if that works you could use les and less dirt over a period of time and she should adapt! Even if she has never been an outside cat, it's in her natural instincts to go pee & poo in dirt.

Originally Posted by paigeandgracie View Post
The vet said she didn't have a UTI because he didn't find any white or red blood cells, just some slight crystals and slightly concentrated urine.
... she may be pre-cystitis and changing her diet to a high quality wet only diet would help make her urine less concentrated. My cat had Cystitis and what that is is a irritated bladder from concentrated urine, he suggested a all wet diet. If this is what it is, she may be assosiating the pain from peeing with the litterbox, therefore avoiding it.

Goodluck, and please don't put her to sleep, surely someone here would adopt her if it came to that.
post #43 of 43
I would definitely get more boxes. Try different litters. Try covered boxes, open boxes, small ones, big ones, etc. Also getPill Pockets ASAP!! Works wonders for my cats. Also, amitriptyline is a VERY bitter, horrible tasting pill. Even a cat who will take a pill easily in wet food, etc, will probably not do it that way with the amitriptyline. A Pill Pocket should work, but some cats don't like treats, or don't like soft treats, like my Captain. Get a pill shooter from your vet. Or, what I do with my Bert, who is also on amitriptyline, and does not like to willingly eat the pill pocket, is go ahead and put the pill in the pill pocket and pop it down his throat. This cuts down on the bad taste of the pill, which will cause them to froth and foam at the mouth and generally be unhappy. He (usually) takes it pretty well if its wrapped in something. Also try Feliway. Expensive but some people here have had great success with it.
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