Relocating trees?

calico2222

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We want to put a few trees in our front yard, both for looks and for shade for the dogs in summer. We were going to buy them from the nusery, but after we thought about it, we have 2 acres of woods that we could get trees from. How hard is it to relocate trees?

We tried it last year with a little baby mimosa that was growing beside my MIL's tree but it didn't make it. It was about 2 feet high. I think we probably cut too many roots off. But we have red buds, trees with white flowers (apple or cherry?) that I would love to move. Is 2ft too small? If not, how far down should we dig to get the roots, and how do we keep it from going into shock? Or, would it just be better to pay the outrageous prices and get them from a nursery?
 

krazy kat2

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GailC would be the one to ask about that. She is a professional landscaper with oodles of knowledge about such things. She is always willing to share that knowledge with people like me with brown thumbs.
 

whiteforest

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I know it's too late for this year for you, maybe something you could try in the future, but DH and I [just messing around not thinking they would ever grow] planted some of the helicopters that fell from a maple tree in front of my dad's house, and they grew about 18" in a pot last summer. We wintered it in the garage an are planting them the end of May. The coolest part is, my dad planted the "mother tree" when he was 10 years old.
 

cococat

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I am very far from a professional but I have relocated lots of trees without issue. Some I have relocated from other states to my yard. Never a problem
 

gailc

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Well in my experience once a tree is larger than 4 ft the root ball that needs to be dug out get too large for a couple people to handle.

The species you need to relocate you need to find out if they are tap rooted (like nut species and most oaks) or have fibrous roots (like maples).

If you plan on taking a larger tree you can root prune it now and transplant in fall. To root prune you take a sharp spade and dig around the dripline (the outermost branches) about 12 " down. This encourages new feeder roots to grow so the transplant shock isn't so bad.

If you have still larger trees consider having them spaded out and transplanted to your property. There probably are guys that do this as side jobs. We have paid $75 to have a tree relocated on our property vs buying $240 to buy the same tree only smaller!!)

You may be able to work out some cost with that person for moving a bunch of trees.
Depending on the size of the spade your can get some nice sized ones moved.

However after any tree is moved it will be in shock as the number of roots have been decreased so a pruning of branches will be necessary as there won't be the roots to support the tree. Mulching with bark and maintaining a good watering schedule is important too. The tree depending on size will not be fertilized for 1-2 years. The leaves may be smaller and if a flowering one it may not flower. This would also apply to a tree spaded in or a large B&B tree from a nursery.

If you are looking for a shade tree to move like a maple you might want to wait until fall so you can observe the fall color as it will vary greatly from tree to tree. Plus moving in fall when dormant is a bit better for the health of the tree.

Except.....for conifers they should be moved at least 6 weeks before winter weather sets in. I would still recommend them to be moved in September and watered pretty heavy until frost in ground.

Hope this helps!!
 
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calico2222

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Thanks Gail, that did help! We're not planning on moving any big trees, just baby ones, maybe 3-4 ft, and let them grow naturally without being so crowded. So we should be able to do it on our own.

I'm guessing "tap rooted" are roots that mainly go straight down, and "fibrous roots" are the ones that are spread out more? Depending on the type of roots, how far down should they be planted? I know there are probably stupid questions, but I've just gotten the hang of planting marigolds and having them survive (I didn't think you could kill marigolds, but I did!) so I just want to make sure.

You said it was better to wait until fall when they are dormant, so we shouldn't try this now? If we wait until fall, do they still need to be pruned, and will the roots take?

Ok. I'm done with questions...for now.
 

momofmany

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We also have woods in back of us and we never transplant any tree over a foot tall. Most of those live because they don't go into as much shock as larger trees.

Of course if we are planting a tree in a highly visable space like the front yard, we just buy a bigger one from a nursery.
 

gailc

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The tap roots ones do have roots I say like carrots. Some survive if they are only about a foot tall but also they are very slow growing.

Planting techniques have changed in the past couple of year.

First of all what soil do you have?? Is it a more clay type soil??

When you dig the tree have a tarp nearby to put the tree and root mass on, don't ever yank on the trunk!! When you have the tree dragged/carried to the place you want to plant the hole you dig will be wider than deep.
That is the biggest change in planting. If you have clay soil the top of the root ball will be above the grade of the lawn by 1/3 and 2/3 in the ground.
Also clay soil try do rough up the edges of the soil so the hole isn't smooth.
Place the tree in the hole and it helps to have a long board and place over hole to check the planting depth. Even with good loamy soil the base of the tree where the roots meet should NEVER be below the soil line. Remember you probably will be mulching this a couple of inches so its better to plant a bit high as the ground will settle a bit after watering.
Fill the hole with the same soil you removed-don't amend as when the tree sends out new roots it likes the same soil that already exists. Tamp down lightly and water to remove remaining air pockets. Mulch with a couple inches of bark mulch keeping the mulch from touching the bark of the tree.

The tree should get about 1/2-1" of water a week, just lay a hose about 4 " from trunk and turn water on a trickle.

Hope this helps.

Also you local cooperative extension office should have a publication on planting trees and shrubs.

Originally Posted by calico2222

Thanks Gail, that did help! We're not planning on moving any big trees, just baby ones, maybe 3-4 ft, and let them grow naturally without being so crowded. So we should be able to do it on our own.

I'm guessing "tap rooted" are roots that mainly go straight down, and "fibrous roots" are the ones that are spread out more? Depending on the type of roots, how far down should they be planted? I know there are probably stupid questions, but I've just gotten the hang of planting marigolds and having them survive (I didn't think you could kill marigolds, but I did!) so I just want to make sure.

You said it was better to wait until fall when they are dormant, so we shouldn't try this now? If we wait until fall, do they still need to be pruned, and will the roots take?

Ok. I'm done with questions...for now.
 
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