Originally Posted by GailC
My friend is looking to obtain some cat and kitten for her farm and asked if I know of anyone who was any cats that would work for her.
I mentioned that my neighbors daughter has been (unfortunately) accumulating a fair amount of cats and that some had kittens.
We stopped there today but only my neighbor's son was around and he said there were now 18 cats and another one was pregnant. Yes, she was not getting any of these cats spayed/neutered. My neighbor wants to have as many new homes found for these cats as her daughter has been spending more time with her boyfriend and isn't around too much, but her daughter doesn't want to have new homes found for the cats.
We tried catching one of the kittens without much success as they aren't getting alot of human contact. Her son said if you shake the food bag they will come however.
So on Wed or Thursday we (my neighbor and I) will be trying to catch at least half of these cats for relocating. Will we need a carrier for each cat?? I'm thinking we could get two kittens in one carrier. We have 5 carriers available. I would think we should try to get the pregnant cat so after she has her litter she could get spayed.
What methods would work best some of these cats are kind of tame-should we try to relocate these cats??
I was afraid this situation was going to happen after I found out my neighbor's daughter had like 8 or 9 un-fixed cats last year.
Any info would be great.
I would choose humane traps over carriers....especially if these cats haven't had much socialization. What if a cat somehow manages to get out of the carrier?? In addition with humane traps, you don't risk having the cats scratch you or bite you as you try to get them inside a carrier. Plus, a vet can administer a sedative through the trap if necessary where as they would not be able to with a carrier. If there are friendly cats and very young kittens, you can certainly bring carriers...but I would also advise wearing protective clothing and thick gloves so that you do not end up having any of them bite you or scratch you out of fear.
BTW..is there a way to get a TNR organization involved so that ALL her cats get spayed...otherwise, the ones you live behind will just continue to breed.
As for relocation....you need to be prepared for the time that it takes to properly relocate cats. Alley Cat Allies has great information on relocating cats:
Upon arrival at the new locations, the cats must be
confined for two to three weeks. Confinement
allows the cats to adjust to the environment in safety
and to accept it as their new home. If set free upon
arrival, all cats will take off and attempt to return to
their former home. In addition to being dangerous
for the cat, who is now lost in unfamiliar territory, it
can be traumatic for a rescuer who has put a lot of
energy, money, and care into the relocation.
Transfer the cats from the traps to large cages or
cat playpens you have already installed in an
environment with moderate temperatures—not too
hot or cold. Transfer each cat by placing the trap in
the playpen, then opening the trap door. Be sure the
playpen door is firmly closed when transferring the
cats or they may escape.
Alert the new caretaker that during the first day
or two, the cats may try to find a way out. Most cats
settle down in the cage after a day or two when
they realize that no harm will befall them.
While the cats are confined, they must have
clean water, fresh food, and clean (or scooped) litter
at least once, preferably twice, each day.
Practical Details of Feral Cat Relocation
Be skeptical if you are told the new barn is escapeproof
and that the cats cannot escape. Few, if any,
barns are truly escape-proof and feral cats are
escape artists. Always install cages/playpens for the
confinement period to ensure that the cats remain in
their new home.
Successful confinement periods range from two
to three weeks. A much longer confinement period
is unnecessary and unhealthy, and can jeopardize the
relocation project. If confined for too long, the cats
may run away upon release, from fear of being
Make sure the confinement area is located near a
place where the cats can hide once they are released
from the playpen. They will likely run and hide when
first released, but will reappear in a day or two.
Make sure the new caretaker will bond with the
cats by talking to them or by playing a radio softly to
get them used to human voices. People who make
an effort to communicate with cats have the most
If a cat escapes from the playpen, the caretaker
should set food and water out, then sprinkle used
litter (specifically feces) around the barn. Cats often
hide for a period of time but usually stay on the
premises. Leave plenty of food and water out to
encourage the escapee to stay close.
In addition to one humane box trap per cat, you will
n Large cages and/or cat playpens for the initial
confinement period at the new home. Cat
playpens are large and require more than one
person to install. (See Resources section for
details on ordering playpens.)
n Adequate litter boxes, litter, food, and dishes, so
you do not have to locate these items in an
unfamiliar area. Feeding cats canned food during
the confinement period appears to help them
accept their new home. Once they are released,
dry food is fine.
n An appropriate vehicle. Never transport trapped
cats in the trunk of a car or other unsafe or
unventilated vehicle compartment. Cover your
car seats with plastic, towels, or newspapers
before placing the cages/carriers in the vehicle.http://www.alleycat.org/pdf/relocate.pdf