Herding Cats at Home - November 2004

Written by Wendy Christensen

Q: How can I get my cat to stop peeing all over my bathroom floor? She is a five year old Persian adopted last December from the Humane Society. I believe that her formerly owner was very neglectful and probably abusive. She's definitely come along way and this is our only 'problem'. I've tried the various pet store products (Nature's Miracle, etc.) that are supposed to remove the scent left behind after clean-up.

I've tried various types of cat litter to see if she didn't like them and that was the problem. Doesn't seem to be the case. I try keeping the box as clean as possible yet she will pee next to the box and not in it. Is there something I'm missing or can do?

A: If this were my cat, the first thing I’d do is schedule a complete veterinary checkup, especially to check for a possible urinary tract infection (UTI) or an inflamed bladder (often referred to as cystitis). Both these conditions are very annoying and painful, often causing the cat to be unable to control an almost-constant urge to urinate, or producing pain while urinating. Cystitis can be tricky, because it tends to come and go, sometimes in really major and painful flare-ups, according to the cat’s stress level and other, unknown, factors.

The peeing NEXT to the box – rather than randomly around the house, or in hidden locations – is a big clue here. Your cat obviously knows where she SHOULD go. However, if she’s experienced pain while urinating (due to either a UTI or a flare-up of cystitis) she may associate that pain with the litter box, and avoid going inside it – while still trying to be a tidy cat and do the right thing. She may have been yelled at or punished for peeing in her previous home – so the whole idea of urination may be painful and stressful for her.

Cystitis, in particular, can be caused and worsened by stress. Some cats just seem more susceptible to stress, and to this particular manifestation of it, than others. If your cat had unhappy and stressful experiences in her previous home, it’s not surprising that she would still be experiencing aftereffects of that stress. Her experiences may have worsened a pre-existing susceptibility to bladder problems. Also, it’s known that certain “purebred”-type cats are more susceptible to various illnesses and stresses, possibly because of inbreeding.

So – first priority is a vet check-up. Please do mention the possibly of cystitis to your vet, and remind him that this cat came from a possibly stressful/abusive situation. Have him check her bladder for inflammation as well as analyzing a urine sample. You may need to do a few follow-ups, and take her in immediately when she seems to be doing worse than usual. Then, the vet will have a better chance of catching any flare-ups as they occur.

If your cat is suffering from a UTI, a course of antibiotics will help. (Your vet may need to try different antibiotics, to find one that works well for her.) If she has a recurrent cystitis problem, she may need a more long-term treatment strategy, such as medication to help lessen her stress.

Q: My fixed, female 4 year old indoor/outdoor kitty has a unique situation. Her meow has drastically changed. It was fairly sudden. She used to meow long and quiet. Now she meows loud and short. My vet was no help. She seems to be healthy and gets all her shots. Two cats in the household. Any ideas?

A: I think she's definitely trying to tell you something -- something important! Whenever you see a sudden change of any kind in your cat's behavior or habits, schedule a veterinary check-up as soon as possible. You did say your vet was "no help," but you didn’t say if you'd taken your cat in for a check-up, or just asked the vet about the meow change.

Cats can't talk, and among themselves they communicate mostly through touch and scent -- not so much vocally, as we do. So your cat's "meow language" is mainly directed at humans. The change from a more relaxed meow style to a more forceful, loud meow might well indicate your cat is not feeling well, or is in pain. She could have a painful abscess or other hidden injury (perhaps acquired during her outdoors excursions) that needs prompt medical attention.

Think carefully: Have you noticed any other changes recently in your cat's litter box habits, sleeping location, appetite, or any other aspect of her behavior? If so, be sure to mention these to the vet. But most of all, make that appointment and get your cat in to the vet for a complete check-up as soon as you can. The quicker, the better!

Remember, it's always a good idea to listen -- really listen -- to your cat.

Q: Alfie and Jack arrived home yesterday after a 380-mile round trip. This is only their second day at home. The place I picked them up from was spotless - they were in a cage at the end of a room with 10 - 12 other cats of varying breeds – all neuters apart from 2 who were also caged - the others were roaming free and very, very friendly (must point out though that I had cheated and put catnip on my hands to make myself a lot more appealing).

They had lived there since their birth. I am worried about them - I was under the impression that they were around 8 months old - but in fact they are actually 5 years old. My little boy comes back tomorrow evening - I'm a little concerned that he's going to want to pick them up and play with them as he did with our last cat.

These boys are only used to the lady who used to own them - indeed they had never seen another human apart from the vet who said they were in great shape and just needed a little dental work – she was unsure whether that was a breed thing or just in their line.

I picked them up at noon and we arrived home around 2:30. After a little distressed miowing they settled quietly into their boxes. (I spoke and sang to them all the way home.) Their owner had put them inside so until we got home I had no contact with them. She mentioned that she hadn't clipped their claws because they wouldn't sit on her knee like her other cats. I'm not sure that she handled them very much at all - which is quite distressing.

I'd put some worn socks of mine and my partner into each one (to get them used to our scent), a bit of catnip and a blanket. When we arrived I placed their boxes into a corner in the living room and removed the doors - I stroked them both gently and spoke to them lovingly then left them to it while I returned to work. The room is quite large - but with loads of places to hide - I'd showed them their litter tray and made scratchy noises into it - which they responded to a little - and placed food and water (complete with a spray of rescue remedy) where they could see it.

They've eaten and drunk nothing and after an initial spraying of their boxes (which isn't too strong a smell) they haven’t relieved themselves in any way. They haven't scratched, hissed or made a noise since they got here. Alfie was out of the box and behind the TV when I arrived home – I had to gently extract him from the wires as this is a no go area (which I will have to sort out). I put a collar on him and Jack – I know some people will disagree with this but our house has two outside doors off the living room and I'm scared of them getting out with no identification. He then went and hid behind a curtain - moving low to the ground as he went. Jack ventured upstairs – its open plan in our home - no ruddy doors - and spent the rest of the evening in a hidey-hole I'd prepared. Alfie joined him later – a little squashed - sitting on him.

At bedtime I moved their litter tray into my room (I wanted to hear them in case they were distressed at all) and guided them in there. Jack sidled in and immediately found the corner next to my wardrobe - where he still is). Alfie went immediately to the wires behind my bed - I got him out gently and covered the wires with a cushion. He eventually found little brother and they stayed there all night. They seem to be quite small - although that may be because they are making themselves tiny.

They haven't a clue what to do with the toys I've given them – there were none in their run/room. Although this may be just because they are so nervous.

Alfie seems to be the more curious/adventurous one - he's sitting downstairs under the TV again now - Jack's so timid its painful. I'm so looking forward to these boys being confident enough to be mischievous - but I think that kind of behaviour is far into the future. I also wonder whether they will bond even more to each other (like security blankets) and they won't respond to us.

A: Relax – you’re doing everything just about exactly right!

Your new cats have to adjust to quite a lot of changes – new people, new territory, and new smells, sounds, and environment. The way they’re behaving is perfectly natural and understandable. They’re being wise, cautious cats. They pile up together because each other is the only “known” quantity in their lives right now – so they’re indeed acting as each others’ “security blankets.” Again, this is perfectly natural and not cause for concern. It doesn’t mean they won’t eventually bond closely with you and other members of your family – it just means they’ll continue to be bonded to each other as well, which is a GOOD thing. They’re starting off with what they know and can trust: each other.

They’re going to naturally seek out “hidey-holes” – and each other - for awhile, at least a few weeks. They’ll come out when they feel comfortable doing so. Don’t rush them. In the meantime, make sure all spaces they have access to are as safe and cat-proof as possible. The best solution to areas you don’t want them to explore is exclusion – close off the room, or make the dangers completely inaccessible. Power cords and other wires can be threaded through plastic “wire-guides” (available at computer and electronics stores) for example, or sprayed with a product like “Bitter Apple” to make them distasteful to chew. But I always prefer exclusion as a strategy for preventing accidents.

It’s quite normal for them to ignore food for a few days – but if it keeps up longer than a couple days at most, you’ll definitely want to take definitive steps to make sure they eat:

• Feed them in a small, private, quiet location, so they won’t feel they have to look over their shoulders for possible dangers. They’re going to be nervous for awhile.
• Minimize stress and distractions; sit with them and speak softly and encouragingly. Pet and praise them lavishly when they eat.
• Serve an especially tasty, oily aromatic canned liver or fish-flavored food. Or try serving cottage cheese or scrambled eggs.
• Heat up the food. This increases the aroma and may tempt them.
• Hand-feed them.
• Offer tasty treats to convince them that eating in his new environment is safe and pleasant.

Remember that failure to eat for more than a couple days (3 at most) can bring on serious liver problems in cats. So do make sure they eat!

If they’re actually 5 years old, I find it hard to believe that they haven’t been handled much -- their previous owner MUST have handled them and interacted with them? Or, did they live in their cages that whole time? (I hope not!) I suspect that ignoring their toys might just be nervousness for now – they have enough to deal with getting to know this strange new world – playtime isn’t (yet) on their agenda. As they settle in, try tempting them with interactive toys, as they seem ready for it. A “Kitten Mitten” is good, also any of the “flying bird” fishing-pole type toys.

If they truly had very little interaction and handling at their previous home, they may not really “know how to play.” You might have to teach and encourage them. But let them set the pace – don’t overwhelm them.

Cats dislike and are suspicious of changes in their lives, so your cats will indeed take some time to adjust to their new situation – but probably not as long as you fear. The fact that Alfie has ventured so far from “safety” on his own is very encouraging. As he becomes more confident, his activities will demonstrate to Jack that everything is OK, and that it’s safe to venture outwards.

One way you can help them out tremendously is by limiting the scope of the new territory they’re exposed to, especially at first. You might try keeping them in one room or a small section of your home, and spend as much time as possible with them in there for a week or two. Feed them in there, put their litter box, and some toys (not too many). Let them focus on getting to know YOU first – then gradually expand their “territory.” Their new situation is probably very scary, because it’s over-stimulating, and thus stressful – just TOO much to take in all at once. Limit the amount of new spaces and places and stimuli they’re exposed to at first. This will greatly lessen their nervousness and stress.

Singing to them, talking to them, reading aloud – all are very helpful. Another helpful technique it to play a CD player or radio softly, with classical music or a talk show. This will not only get them used to a variety of human voices, but also serve as “white noise” to mask unfamiliar sounds which may be scary to them at first.

When your son returns, explain to him, gently, that these new cats are very scared and nervous and he needs to be especially quiet and gentle with them. Monitor all his interactions with the cats, especially at first. If the cats are not used to children, their voices and quick movements can be very scary to them. In my book, “The Humane Society of the United States Complete Guide to Cat Care,” I provide helpful step-by-step “recipes” for approaching and getting to know unfamiliar cats, especially for children. (The book is now available in paperback, on amazon.com and many other outlets.)

The book also includes lots of info on cat-proofing strategies and safety advice (and a lot more!)

It’s probably a bad idea to move the litter box around very much. Once you decide where it’s going to go, keep it there. This is a very important “landmark” in a cat’s territory, and consistency is VERY important.

Most of all, keep up a confident, positive, cheerful attitude. Cats are extremely sensitive and perceptive about the moods and feelings of the humans in their lives. And your new cats are going to be paying especially close attention to you (and other family members), to try and figure out what you’re all about and if you’re going to be friend or foe. You’ve made a GREAT start – the singling, talking, etc. Even if they’re in a hidey-hole, sit close by and read aloud, or just BE there. Talk to them, ask questions, carry on a conversation! Read the newspaper to them. The more non-threatening, gentle interaction, the better.

Keep a few tasty treats in your pocket just in case one of them ventures out. Start by placing a treat on the floor, a few feet from you. See how that goes. Over time, you can offer them from your hand. But again, let the cats set the pace, always.

Watching shy, timid or scared cats blossom into confident, friendly, adventurous creatures is really a joy! As I said, you’re already doing just about everything right.

Q: I have a tabby cat with a manx back half with a bobtail. We have made her into a wonderful pet but she has gotten really DIFFICULT to take to the vet. I have tried warning the vet that every minute we wait the more unsettled she gets and that I need to come at a time they can see her right away. I thought I had that arranged last time and with every passing minute she got to the point I couldn't handle her and had to leave without accomplishing anything. I don't want anyone getting hurt. Could I possibly give her something to calm her before I take her? The vet gave her a shot of Benedryl once and they don't seem to want to do that. Why? Hope you can help. She needs her rabies shot now.

A: Lots of cats resist vet visits, some much more than others. It sounds like you have one of the tough cases! I don’t like the idea of medicating or tranquilizing a cat to calm her before a vet visit, especially a regular checkup. Neither do most veterinarians. Why? Medications can mask some signs of illness, or change a cat’s behavior so that your vet is not seeing the true picture of the cat’s condition. Some owners have reported success with non-tranquilizing products such as the homeopathic “Rescue Remedy.” (I haven’t used this, so I can’t comment on its effectiveness.)

Here are some medication-free ways to make visits to the veterinarian easier on everybody.

• Make sure you use a sturdy carrier sized properly for your cat – not too large, not too small. Your cat should remain in the carrier all through the ride to the clinic, and while she’s waiting to see the doctor. Don’t give in and take her out of the carrier. Even though it might seem she’ll be calmer if you hold her on your lap, she’ll be much more likely to panic and possibly escape, or inadvertently injure you. Cats are denning animals, and being in the carrier will make her feel safer, like she’s in a small, safe den. It also cuts down on the number of scary stimuli she’s exposed to throughout the process. Talk to her, calmly and softly.
• Before putting your cat in her carrier, line it with a comfy blanket or towel, and add an unlaundered item of your clothing (such as a t-shirt or sweatshirt) that carries your familiar scent. The scent will help calm her.
• About thirty minutes before you put your cat in her carrier and leave for the clinic, spritz the inside of the carrier with "Feliway" spray (available from pet suppliers). This is a synthetic feline facial pheromone that helps reduce stress and makes cats feel more comfortable in unfamiliar situations.
• This is the most important tip of all: Watch your own emotions. If you’re increasingly frantic and nervous, your cat will pick up on your stress level and become more stressed herself. Cats are remarkably attuned to our emotions -- if you act like there's something to fear, your cat will become more fearful. If you remain calm, positive and cheerful throughout the whole adventure, she’ll pick up on those feelings instead – much better for all.
• Consider asking your veterinarian to make a house call. You’ll pay a bit more, but for some cats, the reduction in stress is worth the extra cost. (This is also a good idea for multiple-cat households - it's much easier to get one vet to 9 cats than 9 cats to one vet.)

Make your cat’s carrier an everyday place of refuge and pleasure. At home, keep the carrier out in a familiar spot, perhaps with its door removed. Line the carrier with a comfy blanket, and place treats or favorite toys inside occasionally. This will make the carrier a comfortable haven rather than a signal of “scary vet visit ahead!” Good luck, stay calm -- and make sure your cat gets the veterinary care she needs.

Q: We "adopted" a 4-5 week old calico kitten about 2 months ago (actually, she was at the back of our property and was quite ill - took her to the Vet and cleared that up after about 3 weeks)....my problem is that 3 of our 4 other cats (1 is a formerly feral cat) have learned to tolerate the kitten while the 4th cat (my favorite of all) refuses to even come near the kitten. When I pick her up, she hisses and growls until I put her down and when the kitten comes anywhere near her, she races away. A friend of mine told me that calico cats have very aggressive personalities and are, generally, not very nice. This one does a lot of biting and scratching (my husband and I are the recipients of that). Is there any way to solve the problem?

A: There are those who maintain that cats cannot experience a feeing as complex as “jealousy,” but I disagree. True, it’s not “jealousy” in the same sense we humans experience it. It’s more a “competition for resources.” To your original cats, YOU are a prime “resource” – source of food, love, attention, other good things.

It’s not surprising that the cat who’s reacting badly to this newcomer (an “intruder” to her) is your favorite – the cat who is most closely bonded to you. She’s likely feeling that this new cat is a competitor for resources that, in her mind, belong to her. The care needed by your new kitten when she was ill probably took a lot of time and attention from you – and your other cats no doubt noticed. The others seem to have adjusted just fine to the kitten’s presence in the group, but your “favorite” is still holding out. You need to convince Favorite that New Kitten is NOT a threat to her resources or lifestyle. There are two things you need to accomplish:

1. Convince Favorite that she’s still your … favorite.

2. Convince Favorite that New Kitten IS a full member of the group, and is here to stay.

Sometimes, managing and modifying cat behavior can be counterintuitive. For example, you may be tempted to yell at Favorite when she hisses and growls, or just ignore her and pay attention to the kitten. But what Fav really needs is to be reassured that all is still well in her world. She’s feeling insecure, hence her “prickly” behavior. You need to restore her sense of security.

Clearly, she doesn’t feel like being picked up by you just now. So don’t pick her up. Instead, lavish attention on her in other ways, like slipping her special treats (keep a few in your pocket!) especially when NK is in the vicinity. Talk to Fav especially often, and lovingly. Tell her often how beautiful and special she is. Even if she doesn’t understand the exact works (and I’m not convinced cats don’t) she’ll pick up on your tone and meaning. Best of all, it’s always easy to praise cats – you never have to fake it! You want to reassure her that she’s special, and is not going to lose out to NK. Once she feels better about the situation, I suspect she’ll be back purring in your arms.

Meanwhile, be sure to pay attention to NK when Fav is in the vicinity. Put NK on your lap, stroke her, treat her like she’s part of the family. You want to convince Fav that NK is here to stay. It might take some time; as I’m sure you know, cats can be stubborn.

Occasionally, a cat who’s having a lot of trouble adjusting to a change in her life (like a move, or a new kitten) can be helped “over the hump” by a short course of medication. There are drugs that can lower a cat’s stress level and make her interactions with other cats less prickly and more comfortable. It just helps smooth out the rough spots.

If Fav doesn’t start to come around soon, I would suggest asking your veterinarian about considering such a plan for Fav. The reason is, that once she’s in the habit of having a prickly relationship with this new kitten, the habit may become established and harder to eradicate, setting up a long-term behavioral problem that may affect New Kitten’s behavior as well, especially as she grows up and becomes an adult, and seeks a greater role within the group. So, you want to nip the problem in the bud.

So I’d suggest you work on behavioral modification first, but also consult with your vet about a possible short course of medication for Fav.

About NK’s biting and scratching: This is behavior you want to nip in the bud as well. I suspect your kitten had a tough start in life before you met her, then her illness just made it worse. If she was just 4-5 weeks old when you met her, she was abandoned by her MomCat much too young (or became lost, or whatever). But the end result was that she never learned how to be a proper cat – lessons a kitten learns through interaction and play with MomCat and siblings. Such lessons include how to inhibit biting during play, how to deal with older and adult cats, when to use claws (and when not to), and how to read “cat signals” and feline body language. She’s just not accustomed to proper “cat manners.” The other cats will help teach her, but you must help by not encouraging such behavior. There are lots of tips in my new book, “Outwitting Cats.”

Kittens are very easily over-stimulated. If your kitten digs in with claws… Don’t panic, don’t yell, and don’t get mad. And don’t move. Remember -- your cat's over-stimulated and any movement -- especially trying to snatch your arm away -- will stimulate him further and make him dig those claws in even deeper. Instead, very slowly press your arm towards him. This should momentarily confuse him. (Prey doesn’t move towards a predator). Let him calm down until you feel the claws retract. (Try not to squeal in pain.) Disengage your arm s-l-o-w-l-y. It may take a few tries before he's calmed down enough to let you go. Be patient!

Another strategy is – when your kitten scratches or bites – simply stop the interaction. Get up slowly and leave the area. Don’t yell, don’t make a fuss – just leave, and remove the target (you) and the stimulus (also you). You kitten will quickly learn that when claws and teeth come out, the fun stops. With my kittens, I also use a “code phrase” when teeth or claws appear: I say “No choppers!” and “Soft paws, purrs and kitty kisses only!” If they persist, I leave. They all learned quickly, and after awhile, just the first phrase gets them to stop. (They ARE kittens, and impulsive, so they DO forget sometimes.) The keys are love, a cheerful attitude and, above all, CONSISTENCY!

And about calicos: Yes, they have a certain “reputation” – and not entirely undeserved. With the orange coloring seems to come an especially intense and vivid personality. However, I do NOT think that calicos are particularly “aggressive” or “not nice.” They can be complicated and VERY interesting – but they are delightful! I have 2 calicos now, who keep me quite busy, and I lived with a very wonderful calico for 19 years. I wouldn’t trade the “calico experience“ for anything! Accept your calico for the special, one-of-a-kind natural work of art that she is, and glory in her uniqueness. And remember, it’s not really fair to judge her personality just yet – she’s still VERY young, has had a very tough life so far, and is still integrating herself into your cat group. Give her time, and she’ll sparkle!

A note to my readers: Although I really try to answer all questions individually by private email as soon as possible, I don’t always succeed. (I get a lot of questions, and more all the time.) If you've sent me a questions and not received an answer, and if you'd still like advice about your cat problem, please re-send your question. Be sure to update me on your current situation. I promise I’ll try to get back to as many of you as possible. I'm here for you -- and your cats!