Herding Cats At Home - May 2005

Written by Wendy Christensen

Q: My cat found me when she was about six weeks old in the parking lot of a night club. She was malnourished and flooded with fleas. We had our vet appointment the next day and then she settled in. The first year she never once meowed. I began to think maybe she didn't have a voice. Suddenly, the second year, her meows began and haven't stopped since (4 years).

She'll have her food, water, and can go in and out of the house at will through the cat door. She just seems to want to talk. A few moments ago, she went outside, jumped up on the gas heater unit outside my bedroom window and began meowing (not upset, a pleasing meow). After awhile I began meowing back because this seems to mollify her. Then we quit. Soon she was outside my bedroom door, meowing again (as if to see just if I was there.) I cooed her name. In a few minutes she was back outside my window again, meowing of course. This is just the current incident. She meows a lot! Why does she talk so much? When all her needs are met, what does it mean? Or should I just accept the fact that I have a gabby tabby?

Overall, she's a happy gal and quite active. She loves to turn the overhead light on and off in my living room by jumping on the couch and reaching up to the long chain on which I have a furry ball attached to the end. It's hilarious when outside after dark watching the light go on and off.

A: As long as she's healthy and doesn't exhibit any behavior problems, it sounds like you have a very chatty pussycat!. Does she have any evident Siamese or other "Oriental" type heritage (from her looks)? These cats are known as the cat world's most talkative representatives. And I guess, like people, some cats just have a lot more to communicate than others (or they think they do!).

Perhaps she just never had anyone to talk to before she met you, so she wasn't used to the idea - then one day it hit her - "Hey! You LIKE me! You REALLY like me!" Maybe, she's trying to teach you to speak felinese.

I suspect that she'd really appreciate some feline companionship. Even though she's allowed outdoors, she might like very much to have a feline friend of her very own. Although many people think cats are solitary or even antisocial, they're really quite fond of companionship. I personally think that everyone needs a friend of their own species. So… you might want to think about adopting a companion or two for her. I suggest a pair of kittens, of opposite genders, at least 12 weeks old, if you decide to do this.

Cats are intelligent and observant creatures, and they're highly susceptible to loneliness and boredom. Your cat is clearly very clever (turning the lights on and off) and also quite proud of herself about it. She may well want to share her life and talents with more creatures than just you - much as she loves you. Some cats (like some people) just need a bigger audience.

Because your cat talks SO much, I would really consider the possibility that she's trying to tell you something, or ask for something. And my guess would be - feline companionship.

Q: My youngest cat is 2 1/2 years old. He is a male tiger cat. He is such a lovebug and so much fun but lately he is driving us crazy. Usually between 4-6AM every day now, he starts walking all over us, knocking things off the nightstands and trying to crawl up the curtains/blinds. We have tried double stick tape, water bottles, taking the blinds off and nothing stops him from doing this. I don't know what to do. HELP!

A: Your cat is just being a good "wild cat" - dawn is hunting time! Cats evolved as crepuscular (dawn and dusk) hunters. Domestic cats are very close (just a species apart) from their small wildcat cousins, so their instincts are closely related to their wild origins. I also have a personal theory that the more closely a cat resembles his small wild counterparts (the African Wild Cat and the Scottish Wild Cat), the closer his behavior will resemble their "wild cat" behavior. As a tiger cat, your cat qualifies.

Cats respond to light levels, not clocks (much less human sleep schedules). Just before the sun rises is the best hunting time of the day, when a wild cat's prey is most active. What your cat is doing is perfectly natural.

My advice is to either lock him out of your bedroom, or try your best to ignore his antics. He likely enjoys getting a rise out of you, and he probably considers your responses part of a delightful "mock-hunting" game. Removing the audience, and the feedback, often will cause a cat to go find somebody or something more fun to play with. In the meantime, make sure there are no breakable objects he can knock down.

Here are a few tips from my latest book, Outwitting Cats (The Lyons Press, 2004)...

"Some cats just don't know when to say "Goodnight!" They wake up ready for action at 12:13AM, and 2AM (and 4AM and 5:16AM) demanding food, play or just attention. It's only natural -- cats are nocturnal hunters with a distinct crepuscular (dawn and dusk) preference. Their wild cousins are most active around dawn and dusk when their preferred prey is out and about. So although he's just being a cat -- you need your sleep! What can you do?

• Lock your cat out of your bedroom.
• If he scratches or wails at your door, ignore him. The best way to outwit him is to outlast him. (It may be tough!) Whatever you do, don't let him in, snuggle or try to console him, or -- worst of all -- feed him! You'll be reinforcing the behavior you don't want.
• Install him overnight in his "safe hideaway" (a room fitted out with everything he needs for comfort and safety) with a radio playing softly. Leave a few toys or treats for him to discover on his own.
• Make sure his hideaway is fully and luxuriously equipped with a comfy bed, scratching post, climbing tree -- and plenty of solo toys.
• Conduct a vigorous interactive play session just before bedtime. Wear him out with plenty of pouncing, running and leaping.
• Conduct an active training session just before bedtime. Try "clicker training," which many cats enjoy.
• Be sure he gets enough activity, play and stimulation throughout the day, every day, so boredom and loneliness don't cause him to seek you out obsessively at night.

If you do choose to share your bedroom with your cat, be tolerant and understanding of his sleep patterns. Your cat will likely come and go -- he'll share your bed for few hours, leave on some urgent kitty business, and return later. Remember, "Cats go where they please and please where they go!" If you'd like to minimize conflicts but still share some furry night-time warmth and purring, try these tips:

• Keep a few cat toys handy on your nightstand. A laser pointer is great for amusing a restless cat in the middle of the night.
• If your cat wakes you up by pouncing on your toes, stop moving your toes! Toss a small toy across the room for him to focus on.
• Set up an irresistible cat bed in your bedroom, but not on your bed -- perhaps on a chair. He may prefer his own bed to your tossing and turning."

Also remember that your cat is still young - not a kitten, but perhaps still a "teenager" - and you know how teenagers like to push the envelope! Remind yourself what good exercise all this activity is for him, and do your best to channel his youthful exuberance into vigorous mock-hunting interactive playtime whenever you can.

Q: We have two cats, and one of them has several issues that we need help with. Stripes is a 5 year old, neutered male DSH who has been with us since he was 8 weeks old. No behavior issues at all, he's pretty shy around all other people except my husband and myself.

Scooter is a 6 month old, spayed female DSH who has been with us since she was 8 weeks old.

1. We leave big bowls full of water and dry food out for the cats and sometimes feed them half a can of wet food in the am. Stripes eats as he pleases, he has never had a weight issue. But Scooter is fat, she looks like a football. She eats way more than he does. She also opens cabinets and chews through packaging to eat whatever she can find; dry cat food, chips, even jalapeno peppers, etc. She will eat Stripes' food if he isn't around, and if anything gets left on the counter or dropped onto the floor, she eats that too. She will even try to get up onto the stove top while we are cooking. I give her a quick squirt with a water bottle to keep her off the counters.

2. Scooter chews things. Mostly paper, such as rolls of toilet paper and newspapers. She pulls the TP off the roll and I come home from work to a snow storm in my bathroom. Since she can get into cabinets, nothing is safe. She pulls towels out of cabinets and I come home to find our linen cabinet emptied. She has not chewed shoes or clothes (yet). She also likes plastic grocery bags and anything that moves or rustles. We've put plenty of toys scattered through the house which she also plays with regularly.

3. Worst of all, she attacks people and Stripes. She does this climb attack thing. For instance, when I am getting ready for work, I'll be standing in front of the mirror putting on makeup and she will all of a sudden jump up and try to climb me, as a result I have scratches on my legs, stomach and back, it hurts like heck. She does this in the bedroom, kitchen, etc. She also lies in wait under the bed and when you walk by, she attacks your feet. Every movement you make is a reason for her to strike. I trim her claws and we have several scratch posts which she uses, she does not scratch furniture because since she was tiny we used a spray bottle full of water to give her a quick squirt and she learned very quickly, but its not possible to carry around a spray bottle everywhere we go and her attacks are a total surprise, she's lying there looking cute one minute, the next second she's in full attack mode. Stripes will lie on our bed and nap, and she will creep her way over to him and then the next minute she is all over him. He will allow it for a few minutes and will even get up to leave, but she follows him and jumps all over him and then he kicks her butt, but she never learns.

I'm getting worried about all of this. My husband has had cats his entire life and is very frustrated, all he wants to do is lock her out of whichever room we are in. I'm also worried about visitors, who I have to warn not to get too close, but she is so friendly, she goes right up to anyone and is very social, then all of a sudden, she gets 'em. She follows me around when I am home, and when we do put her out of the bedroom to sleep, she bumps up against the door and tries to get in, we used a Scat Mat for that, and now she sits patiently outside the door until we open it and then darts in. She does not "talk" much at all, she makes a few squeaks here and there, but very rarely.

I'm thinking she has some kind of anxiety issue. My husband and I both work and now my husband says we should give her to a family with children and a stay-at-home mom so she has constant attention. If this is best for her, then I'll do it, but I really hope we can resolve these behavior problems.

A: Your first step should be a visit to the veterinarian for a COMPLETE medical checkup for Scooter. Although none of her behavior is totally out of line for cats, the amount and intensity of it makes me suspect that she may have some sort of a metabolic disorder or other systemic illness. (Remember, I am not a veterinarian.) Make sure your veterinarian does a complete blood panel to check the functioning of all Scooter's organ systems. It really sounds to me (not a vet, remember!) that something is out of whack somewhere. The endless craving for food suggests to me that she has a medical issue.

It also seems that Scooter has a very strong "prey drive" that's not being gratified in her everyday life. Cats vary in their amount of predatory drive and their compulsion to hunt-and-kill. The hunting and attacking (of toilet paper, stuff in cabinets, people, other cats) is a normal urge that has not been given any acceptable daily outlet. Cats benefit tremendously from vigorous, interactive play sessions as often as possible, at least once a day for at least 15 minutes at a time. Toys like "Da Bird," "Kitty Tease" and laser pointers are big cat favorites, and will get them leaping, chasing and pouncing. Cats with high prey drives especially need this kind of "mock-hunting" workout as often as possible.

To help keep her from emptying your cabinets, install child-proof latches, available at hardware stores, baby departments and home goods stores. They're very easy to install. You could also install latch-and-hooks (like those used on screen doors) on closet doors. These kinds of latches are a good idea for ANY home that includes cats, as there are always dangerous and toxic materials you don't want your cats getting into. Exclusion is one of the simplest ways to keep cats away from stuff you don't want them into.

If it does turn out that Scooter has an anxiety issue, rather than (or in addition to), a medical one, your veterinarian can recommend a variety of behavior-modification drugs that can help her immensely. Be sure to discuss all the possibilities with the vet. There are several safe and effective drugs that can be used long term in cats.

But first and foremost, get Scooter in for a complete checkup. Tell the veterinarian ALL the anomalies you've observed. Write down notes ahead of time, as it will help you to mention everything and get the most out of your visit.

Q: My 30 year old daughter and her room mate (another girl) have been given a kitten. I don't know what happened but a friend of the roommate said the kitten was orphaned on a farm (either barn fire or tractor accident) which killed the mother cat and the rest of the litter. They got this kitten at 5 weeks. She is now 5 months and healthy and VERY active and quite a bully. She will purr and rub against your legs when you first walk into the apartment, but then within a few minutes she will bite at your ankles or toes if they are available (as well as your leg). These are hard bites, not nibbles. If you pick her up to pet her, she usually bites and scratches within a minute.

She comes around to "visit" but she is not what I would call a loving kitty. At night when the girls are asleep, she jumps on their heads and bites and scratches them to the point of drawing blood. She is especially fond of chewing up their poor hands. (they are both fashion models so this is not good). She swats at their faces and bites at whatever she wants. She does not scratch the furniture, nor does she tear up stuff. She has a few toys, a few stuffed mice and a 6" Tigger doll, and a few feathers on the end of a string.

The girls do NOT want to add another kitten to the family as they both work and are gone alot of the time. The kitten is in the apartment for many hours by itself. What can we do to help the kitten feel better and quite being a holy terror. The vet says she is in very good condition and she is this way because she never had her mother to train her and no other litter mates to play with and wrestle with.

A: Believe it or not, another cat might be just what Little Hellion needs. Contrary to what you might think, adding a cat might well reduce the household's feline dilemmas. But… not another kitten, because Hellion would quickly bully and dominate him. What she needs is a fairly young male cat (neutered, of course), under 2 years old. Local shelters have many delightful "teenage boys" available. Look for one who gets along well with other cats and has a mellow, friendly personality. Explain to shelter workers just why you're adopting, and they'll help you choose the right boy.

Before you do this, though, schedule the little girl for spay surgery ASAP. This is VERY important! She's certainly old enough, and the surgery will help in settling her down a bit. Females reach sexual maturity before males, and intact females can get quite feisty, bossy and territorial.

Because she didn't grow up with her siblings and MomCat, this kitten never learned proper cat manners and cat etiquette. Part of this training she missed is how to inhibit bites and keep claws retracted during play. Even well-trained kittens sometimes forget their manners, but not to the extent this one does. The longer it goes on, the more ingrained her bad habits will become.

In a litter of kittens that stays together throughout their normal term of kittenhood, the kittens constantly mock-fight, wrestle, stalk one another, pounce, play-bite, etc. This is hunting practice. In addition to sharpening their reflexes and senses, the kittens learn to inhibit their bites and keep their claws sheathed when playing. Kittens who have not had this experience (or enough of it) simply haven't learned the proper rules of play. It's up to the household humans to teach her what's acceptable, and what's off limits. At five months, she's still young enough to learn her kitty manners-- IF you're consistent, and get a bit of feline help. Consistency is vital!

The presence of a well-socialized male cat, slightly older than her, who knows his manners and understands cat etiquette will not only help her catch up on the lessons she missed, but will give her essential companionship while the humans are away from home. Although people think of cats as solitary or even antisocial, they really enjoy and thrive on companionship from other compatible cats. I'm a BIG fan of feline companionship for cats. Alone, they tend to get lonesome, bored, and depressed (and sometimes destructive, and even self-mutilating).

Much of what you're seeing in this kitten sounds like predatory/play aggression. She craves stimulation and hunting activity, and I suspect she might not be getting enough exercise, physical stimulation and "mock-hunting." Many indoor cats (especially only cats) get bored and aggressive in this way because they don't get enough "hunt, pounce and mock-kill" activity. Start a daily program of vigorous interactive (human-conducted) play. it's not enough to just have the toys available - to be really effective, a human must conduct the play sessions and fully participate.

One of the best ways to dissuade your kitten from bad habits is to simply leave the room and ignore her for several minutes whenever she attacks, bites, or does any other unacceptable behavior. That is, stop the "game" in its tracks. ANY reaction by humans, negative or positive, just reinforces the behavior.

Her humans might also develop a "keyword phrase," and say it in a particular tone of voice whenever she bites or misbehaves. Around here, we use "No choppers!" and "Mom is neither a prey animal nor a food item!" Sounds silly, but cats are extremely attuned to tones of voice. Even if they can't understand the actual words (and I'm not convinced they can't), they WILL get to know that when you say the keyword phrase it means the fun will be over if they don't mind their manners.

If she's seen in her in "stalk and hunt" or "about to bite" mode (you can often tell by her body language and the look in her eyes), the humans should be ready to distract her by tossing a small toy or treat across the room. Then, they should quietly leave the area for awhile. (I always keep a few treats and little fake fur mice in my pocket.)

The household humans need to start showing her that her behavior is unacceptable, and channel her predatory urges and energy into more acceptable directions. Think "distraction" and "redirection."

See my latest book, Outwitting Cats (The Lyons Press, 2004) for lots more tips on curbing feline aggression, including:

"There are particular patterns -- very specific kinds of movement -- that are most likely to trigger your cat's "stalk and ambush" behavior:

• movement across his field of vision
• movement away from him
• rapid, jerky movement
• sudden bursts of movement
• movement accompanied by interesting rustling, cracking or squeaking sounds

Knowing this is a great way to improve the fun and appeal of your daily interactive play sessions. The more you know about how prey behaves, and how your cat is wired to hunt, the better you can simulate a real hunt and gratify your cat's predatory "inner wild cat."

But when you -- your ankles, your shoulders, the newspaper you're reading -- is the "prey," this feline ambushing strategy can be problematic. For one thing, it's painful. Even in play, cat claws -- and even tiny kitten claws -- digging into your ankles can evoke gasps and draw blood. A lot of "ambush problems" start with mis-training in kittenhood. Many others are caused by simple boredom, or by a cat going through his normal, natural daily predatory cycle."

Try for a couple of vigorous interactive "chase the feather birdie" playtimes each day. (10-15 minutes each is fine.) The household humans often find playtimes to be as much fun for them as it is for the cats! It's also a great stress-reliever. Get the kitten really running around, leaping, pouncing, occasionally making a good solid "kill."

Q: I have 5 wonderful cats. The first 4 we adopted as kittens, one a year for 4 years, beginning 6 years ago. Then almost 2 years had passed when I adopted an adult cat (they're all females, all had been declawed and spayed). Libby is 5 or 6.

We've had the 5th cat, Libby, for just over a year now. Although it was a tougher and longer adjustment period for all 5 of the cats (compared to adding kittens to the family), all but one of the 5 cats get along with Libby. My question is regarding the one cat, Roma, that has never worked out her "issues" with Libby, our newest cat.

Roma stalks Libby every day. She doesn't do it all day, and some days are worse than others. She just simply seems so angry at Libby. She runs at her and hits/boxes her in the head several quick times, or occasionally, tackles her. There has never been bloodshed, nor large amounts of hair lost after an attack. However, it's very frustrating to watch Libby get attacked daily.

I've read a lot about aggression in cats, and talked about it with her vet. I realize that Roma may need extra TLC, but not right after an attack, and reassurance that she's loved, etc. Roma is not a lap cat, nor a very cuddly one. Nonetheless, I pet her every day, tell her I love her, etc., and I watch myself to not be "too" affectionate with Libby in front of Roma. (Libby IS a lap cat and very attached to me.) I'd hoped that this would resolve itself over time, but it's been going on for over a year now.

A: First, I recommend that you take both cats (Roma and Libby) to the veterinarian for complete checkups. It's possible that an underlying medical condition is changing one or both cats' "scent signature" and provoking bad feelings between them. Keep a behavior log documenting Roma's and Libby's behavior for a couple for weeks and bring it along so the veterinarian can review it. There may be clues hidden in the timing or nature of the aggression. The more details you can share with the veterinarian, the better.

I had a VERY similar situation some years ago with two of my female cats -- lots of chasing, stalking, fighting, and yowling. My veterinarian suggested a drug that apparently stimulates hormonal changes in the cat that simulate the calm, nurturing feelings of pregnancy. It worked! The two cats never became friends (in fact they would trade all sorts of horrible kitty insults whenever they met) but they stopped fighting and stalking, and learned peaceful co-existence.

Another possibility to ask the veterinarian about is possibly putting the "victim cat" (Libby) on a course of a drug called buspirone ("BuSpar"). This drug is often used in territorial dispute situations, and has been very effective in eliminating or reducing spraying and urine-marking. But it also has the effect of inducing some mild aggression. When given to a "victim cat," the drug often makes it easier for the cat to stand up for herself and defend herself. And this can have the effect of reducing stalking and attacks, because it's no longer so easy for the stalker/attacker to win. I've seen this drug work in my own cat family as well.

In situations like this, a combination of behavior modification and drug therapy can help a lot. Only you and your veterinarian can decide what's best for your particular situation.

Meanwhile, make sure that Libby has plenty of places where she can escape from stalking and attacks (such as several tall cat trees, or a room off-limits to Roma). When you aren't there to supervise, you may want to consider locking Roma in a "room of her own" with everything she needs, so Libby can enjoy her peace and freedom.

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