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Herding Cats at Home - November 2004

Written by Wendy Christensen

Remember that failure to eat for more than a couple days (3 at most) can bring on serious liver problems in cats. So do make sure they eat!

If they’re actually 5 years old, I find it hard to believe that they haven’t been handled much -- their previous owner MUST have handled them and interacted with them? Or, did they live in their cages that whole time? (I hope not!) I suspect that ignoring their toys might just be nervousness for now – they have enough to deal with getting to know this strange new world – playtime isn’t (yet) on their agenda. As they settle in, try tempting them with interactive toys, as they seem ready for it. A “Kitten Mitten” is good, also any of the “flying bird” fishing-pole type toys.

If they truly had very little interaction and handling at their previous home, they may not really “know how to play.” You might have to teach and encourage them. But let them set the pace – don’t overwhelm them.

Cats dislike and are suspicious of changes in their lives, so your cats will indeed take some time to adjust to their new situation – but probably not as long as you fear. The fact that Alfie has ventured so far from “safety” on his own is very encouraging. As he becomes more confident, his activities will demonstrate to Jack that everything is OK, and that it’s safe to venture outwards.

One way you can help them out tremendously is by limiting the scope of the new territory they’re exposed to, especially at first. You might try keeping them in one room or a small section of your home, and spend as much time as possible with them in there for a week or two. Feed them in there, put their litter box, and some toys (not too many). Let them focus on getting to know YOU first – then gradually expand their “territory.” Their new situation is probably very scary, because it’s over-stimulating, and thus stressful – just TOO much to take in all at once. Limit the amount of new spaces and places and stimuli they’re exposed to at first. This will greatly lessen their nervousness and stress.

Singing to them, talking to them, reading aloud – all are very helpful. Another helpful technique it to play a CD player or radio softly, with classical music or a talk show. This will not only get them used to a variety of human voices, but also serve as “white noise” to mask unfamiliar sounds which may be scary to them at first.

When your son returns, explain to him, gently, that these new cats are very scared and nervous and he needs to be especially quiet and gentle with them. Monitor all his interactions with the cats, especially at first. If the cats are not used to children, their voices and quick movements can be very scary to them. In my book, “The Humane Society of the United States Complete Guide to Cat Care,” I provide helpful step-by-step “recipes” for approaching and getting to know unfamiliar cats, especially for children. (The book is now available in paperback, on amazon.com and many other outlets.)

The book also includes lots of info on cat-proofing strategies and safety advice (and a lot more!)

It’s probably a bad idea to move the litter box around very much. Once you decide where it’s going to go, keep it there. This is a very important “landmark” in a cat’s territory, and consistency is VERY important.

Most of all, keep up a confident, positive, cheerful attitude. Cats are extremely sensitive and perceptive about the moods and feelings of the humans in their lives. And your new cats are going to be paying especially close attention to you (and other family members), to try and figure out what you’re all about and if you’re going to be friend or foe. You’ve made a GREAT start – the singling, talking, etc. Even if they’re in a hidey-hole, sit close by and read aloud, or just BE there. Talk to them, ask questions, carry on a conversation! Read the newspaper to them. The more non-threatening, gentle interaction, the better.

Keep a few tasty treats in your pocket just in case one of them ventures out. Start by placing a treat on the floor, a few feet from you. See how that goes. Over time, you can offer them from your hand. But again, let the cats set the pace, always.

Watching shy, timid or scared cats blossom into confident, friendly, adventurous creatures is really a joy! As I said, you’re already doing just about everything right.


Q: I have a tabby cat with a manx back half with a bobtail. We have made her into a wonderful pet but she has gotten really DIFFICULT to take to the vet. I have tried warning the vet that every minute we wait the more unsettled she gets and that I need to come at a time they can see her right away. I thought I had that arranged last time and with every passing minute she got to the point I couldn't handle her and had to leave without accomplishing anything. I don't want anyone getting hurt. Could I possibly give her something to calm her before I take her? The vet gave her a shot of Benedryl once and they don't seem to want to do that. Why? Hope you can help. She needs her rabies shot now.

A: Lots of cats resist vet visits, some much more than others. It sounds like you have one of the tough cases! I don’t like the idea of medicating or tranquilizing a cat to calm her before a vet visit, especially a regular checkup. Neither do most veterinarians. Why? Medications can mask some signs of illness, or change a cat’s behavior so that your vet is not seeing the true picture of the cat’s condition. Some owners have reported success with non-tranquilizing products such as the homeopathic “Rescue Remedy.” (I haven’t used this, so I can’t comment on its effectiveness.)

Here are some medication-free ways to make visits to the veterinarian easier on everybody.

  • Make sure you use a sturdy carrier sized properly for your cat – not too large, not too small. Your cat should remain in the carrier all through the ride to the clinic, and while she’s waiting to see the doctor. Don’t give in and take her out of the carrier. Even though it might seem she’ll be calmer if you hold her on your lap, she’ll be much more likely to panic and possibly escape, or inadvertently injure you. Cats are denning animals, and being in the carrier will make her feel safer, like she’s in a small, safe den. It also cuts down on the number of scary stimuli she’s exposed to throughout the process. Talk to her, calmly and softly.
  • Before putting your cat in her carrier, line it with a comfy blanket or towel, and add an unlaundered item of your clothing (such as a t-shirt or sweatshirt) that carries your familiar scent. The scent will help calm her.
  • About thirty minutes before you put your cat in her carrier and leave for the clinic, spritz the inside of the carrier with "Feliway" spray (available from pet suppliers). This is a synthetic feline facial pheromone that helps reduce stress and makes cats feel more comfortable in unfamiliar situations.
  • This is the most important tip of all: Watch your own emotions. If you’re increasingly frantic and nervous, your cat will pick up on your stress level and become more stressed herself. Cats are remarkably attuned to our emotions -- if you act like there's something to fear, your cat will become more fearful. If you remain calm, positive and cheerful throughout the whole adventure, she’ll pick up on those feelings instead – much better for all.
  • Consider asking your veterinarian to make a house call. You’ll pay a bit more, but for some cats, the reduction in stress is worth the extra cost. (This is also a good idea for multiple-cat households - it's much easier to get one vet to 9 cats than 9 cats to one vet.)

Make your cat’s carrier an everyday place of refuge and pleasure. At home, keep the carrier out in a familiar spot, perhaps with its door removed. Line the carrier with a comfy blanket, and place treats or favorite toys inside occasionally. This will make the carrier a comfortable haven rather than a signal of “scary vet visit ahead!” Good luck, stay calm -- and make sure your cat gets the veterinary care she needs.


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